• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권5호
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• pp.715-723
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• 2013

This develops a new and advanced S/S knitwear material made of linen/bamboo blended yarn. Linen/bamboo knitted fabrics were compared with linen/polyester knitted fabrics in terms of appearance as well as physical and comfort properties. Rib knitted fabrics were remarkably thicker than plain knitted fabrics. Knitted fabrics based on polyester yarns were heavier than those based on bamboo yarn. The porosity decreased in the following order: linen 100% > bamboo 100% > polyester 100%. The drape properties of bamboo 100% and linen/bamboo knitted fabrics were excellent. The pilling resistances of linen 100% and linen/bamboo knitted fabrics were excellent. The highest and lowest air permeability was observed in the case of linen/bamboo knitted fabrics and polyester 100% knitted fabrics, respectively. The instant cool-feeling was enhanced as the bamboo yarns were blended. The thermal conductivity of linen 100% knitted fabrics was the highest and the thermal conductivity of linen/bamboo knitted fabrics was higher than linen/polyester knitted fabrics. Bamboo 100% knitted fabrics showed a higher moisture regain than polyester 100% knitted fabrics. The results confirmed the superior appearance and comfort of a novel S/S knit wear material made of linen/bamboo knitted fabric.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.160-165
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• 1999

The thermal properies of the pure linen fabrics available in the market and linen blended woven fabrics were measured at the moisture content of 0%, 20%, 40% and 60% using KES-F7 system (Thermo Iabo II type). The experimental properties were statistically analyzed by the rate of water absorbent. The main results were as follows; There is a positive correlation between the thermal insulation value (TIV) and thickness of pure linen fabrics and linen blended woven fabrics by water absorption. Whereas an negative correlation exists between the TIV and cover factor. There is a high positive correlation among the thermal conductivity (k), thickness and weight of pure linen fabrics and linen blended woven fabrics by water absorption. Wherase a high negative correlation exist between the k and air' permeability (Ap). There is a high positive correlation between the feeling of warmth/coldness and bulk density of pure linen and linen blended woven fabrics by water absorption. Wherase a high negative correlation exists between the feeling of warmth/coldness and porosity. There is a negative correlation between TIV and $q_{max}$ of pure linen fabrics and linen blended woven fabrics. The higher the rate of water absorbent, the lower the TIV. This means that TIV decreases by water absorption. As for the thermal property by rate of water absorbent $q_{max}$ and k increase by water absorption and reach max-value at 60% rate of water absorbent. The TIV decreases by water absorption and has +value at 0% rate of water absorbent, whereas it has -value with a feeling of coldness at 20%, 40%. and 60% rate of water absorbent.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.828-837
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the physical properties and the hand of bast/man made fiber mixed fabrics compared to linen. The mixed fabrics were made by rayon, polyester and modal fiber as warp yarn, and ramie, flax, rayon/flax and cotton/flax as weft yarn. The crease resistance, drape, tensile strength/extension, water absorbancy and warmth retention were measured for test fabrics. The mechanical properties were measured by Kawabata system, and the hand value was calculated by previously developed equation. The results obtained from this study were as follows: The crease resistance and drape properties of bast/man made fiber mixed fabrics were improved compared to those of linen. The tensile strength of polyester/bast fiber mixed fabrics increased compared to those of linen, but rayon/bast and modal/bast fiber mired fabrics decreased. The extension of all mixed fabrics was increased compared to that of linen. The rayon/ramie and modal/ramie mixed fabrics showed lower warmth retention than linen. The mixed fabrics used rayon and modal as warp yarn showed higher water absorbancy than linen. The Koshi and Hari hand value of all mixed fabrics showed lower than those of linen. Fukurami hand value showed little difference between mixed fabrics and linen. Shari, Kishimi, and Shinayakasa hand value of rayon/bast and modal/bast fiber mixed fabrics showed higher than those of linen.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.801-811
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• 2022

In this study, we constructed a database of dyeing concentrations of all reactive dyes used for dyeing linen according to the thickness of the linen fabric and attempted to improve the reproducibility of the dyeing process for the commercialization of linen fabric materials. Linen fabric is a natural cellulose material that is comfortable and suitable for eco-friendly trends. It is a typical summer material with excellent breathability and thermal conductivity, quick moisture absorption and dissipation, and a cool touch. Dyeability and fastness were evaluated depending on the thickness of the linen fabric using a monochlorotriazine (MCT) reactive dye and bifunctional yellow, red, and blue dyes. All three colors of the MCT reactive dye and bifunctional dyes exhibited a darker shade as the fiber thickness of the marker increased. Fastness to washing was excellent at grades 4-5 or higher, regardless of the color of the dye and the number of linen fabrics. Although some color-fastness differences were noted, with the color change occurring most frequently with blue color, the fastness variations with dye type were mostly similar. The results of this study are expected to facilitate the selection of reactive dyes according to the thickness of the linen fabric based on the basic data from the laboratory, which will aid in the mass production of linen fabric and benefit the fashion industry.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.17-29
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• 2018

This study aims to determine the effects of clothing consumption value, usefulness of clothing and ease of use on the new product acceptance intention of premium linen apparel. A survey was conducted among male and female consumers, and a total of 328 responses were analyzed. Frequency, factor analysis, and multiple regression analysis were used for data analysis using SPSS WIN Ver.21.0. The results of this study are as follows. First, clothing consumption value was classified into five factors: social value, fashionable value, individual value, practical value and emotional value. Usefulness and ease of use were found two factors and the new product acceptance intention of premium linen apparel was found one factor. Second, all factors of clothing consumption value had a positive effect on usefulness. The higher the values of the five factors of clothing consumption value, the higher usefulness. Third, fashionable value affected ease of use, but individual value had no positive effect on ease of use. The higher the fashionable value, the higher the ease of use, but, the higher the individual value, the lower the ease of use. Fourth, all factors of clothing consumption value had a positive effect on the new product acceptance intention of premium linen apparel. Therefore, clothing consumption value is important to the new product acceptance intention of premium linen apparel. Moreover, usefulness and ease of use influenced the new product acceptance intention of premium linen apparel. This shows that consumers' new product acceptance intention of premium linen apparel increases if the product is they are perceived to be useful and easy to use.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.61-72
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• 2008

The UV-protection effect of green-tea dyed fabrics was reported in our previous studies. The chitosan was used as a natural mordant of cellulose fiber for green tea extract because chitosan is a natural bio-polymer. The increase in the UV protection property of summer cellulose fabrics, cotton and linen, upon the repetition of chitosan mordanting and green tea dyeing was observed. However, the physical property change would be followed by this repeated wet processing of the cellulose fabric. Therefore, the physical changes of the chitosan mordanted and green tea dyed cotton and linen fabrics were evaluated by KES-FB system. Tensile, shear, bending, compression, and surface characteristics were tested upon the repetition of mordanting and dyeing treatments. Linearity of tensile force increased in the treated cotton and linen samples. Tensile energy and resilience decreased in all treated fabrics. Shear stiffness increased in the treated cotton and linen in general. Shear hysteresis was increased in all cotton samples and some linen samples. In cotton, the bending rigidity in all treated cottons increased except C3G3. As the chitosan mordanting numbers increased, the bending rigidity tended to decrease. In linen, the bending rigidity and hysteresis increased in all treated samples. Compressional energy and resilience increased as the number of chitosan mordanting increased both in cotton and linen. This could be the result of the increase in thickness upon chitosan mordanting. Surface coefficient of friction increased in the treated cotton and linen in general. Surface roughness tended to increase in cotton.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권11호
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• pp.1859-1869
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• 2010

This study provides improved wrinkle recovery and UV protection capabilities as well as an antibacterial and deodorizing function to linen fabrics for summer shirts. The results obtained from this study are as follows. By setting catalyst concentration to 1.2% and DMDHEU concentration to 6% respectively and applying a heat treatment to them at $160^{\circ}C$ for 5 minutes, the decrease of fabric strength could be minimized and the crease resistance of linen fabrics improved. Compared to the treatment with DMDHEU only, the crease resistance of linen fabrics could be maintained and degradation of their properties could be more effectively prevented by applying the mixture of the UV absorber and the nano silver to the DMDHEU resin. The UV protection of fabrics could be improved by adding the UV absorber. Although the separate treatment of resin or the nano silver had no effect on the improvement of the UV protection properties for treated fabrics, they could increase the UV protection capability when they were combined with the UV absorber. Linen fabrics could possess an antibiosis and deodorizing capability by applying the mixture of the UV absorber, the nano silver, and the resin. The UV protection, crease resistance and flexibility of finished fabrics were maintained even after laundering. Washed treated fabrics maintained excellent antibiosis and odor free capabilities compared to untreated fabrics.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.161-172
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• 2023

In this study, natural dyeing using Polygonum tinctoria was performed with linen, ramie, and hemp, which are biodegradable cellulose fibers, considering environmental aspects. In particular, the impacts of alkali NaOH and reducing agent Na₂S₂O₄ were examined, and the possibilities of minimizing the use and reusing the dye were explored. The surface dye concentrations were found to be in the following order: hemp>linen>ramie. With the increase in all additives, the L^* value decreased, and the ⊿E and K/S values increased gradually. When Na₂S₂O₄ was 1g/L, the surface color of the dye appeared uniformly from the NaOH concentration of 0.4g/L (pH 10.84). When NaOH was 0.4g/L, the K/S values of linen and ramie increased rapidly after 0.4g/L of Na₂S₂O₄, and hemp maintained a stable color from 0.6g/L of Na₂S₂O₄. With the increase in the dye concentration from 1 to 6g/L, all the fibers were dyed uniformly. The K/S value increased or higher doubled upon repeated dyeing six times for 5 min than when dyed only once for 30 min. Therefore, the linen, ramie, and hemp fibers dyed repeatedly exhibited good washing, rubbing, and colorfastness to perspiration, which was rated between 4 and 4-5, and that to light was rated as 5. Moreover, no discoloration due to sunlight was observed. Finally, linen exhibited a bacterial reduction of 99.9%, thereby indicating its excellent antibacterial property.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.10-22
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• 1995

Cellulosic fabrics, i.e. rayon, polynosic, and linen were treated with liquid ammonia at -33.4$^{\circ}C$. The fine structures, bending properties, tensile strength, wrinkle recoveries, and dyeing properties of the treated fabrics were studied. Dyeing was carried out with two direct dyes, C. I. Direct Red 2 and Blue 1. The liquid ammonia treatment for three fabrics brought about the transition of crystal lattices and the decrease of crystallinity; transforming cellulose I structure of original linen to cellulose I and III structure, and cellulose II structure of original rayon and polynosic to cellulose II and III structure. Moisture regain of liquid ammonia- treated polynosic and linen was higher than that for untreated, and water absorbency of liquid ammonia-traeated fabrics was all lower than that of untreated. Also, bending properties of treated fabrics were not improved compared with those of untreated ones. The rayon treated with liquid ammonia was increased not only the apparent diffusion coefficient and the rate of dyeing but also equilibrium dye adsortion, whereas polynosic and linen were increased only equilibrium dye adsortion. It is suggested that the pore sizes of liquid ammonia-treated rayon, polynosic, and linen are much smaller than that of liquid ammonia-treated cotton.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.261-267
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• 2002

Cotton fabrics were immersed in aqueous solution of N-methylmorpholine N-oxide(NMMO) with various concentrations, padded by 300% of pick-up, concentrated at $90^\circ{C}$ for 30min under constant-length condition, washed, and dried, to examine a possibility of linen-like finishing by the solvent bonding between fibers. With increasing the concentration of NMMO, cross-sections of fibers changed to oval or polygonal shapes and not only the fibers but also the warp and weft were bonded each other, which produced linen-like effect on the fabrics in the aspects of appearance and mechanical properties such as the Increase of stiffness and shear properties. The thickness, moisture regain and dyeability were increased with the concentration of NMMO.