• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.339-345
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• 2014

This study analyzes and compares Hanji made with loess to Hanji made with kaolin, two yellow-based inorganic pigments, in terms of its physical properties, optical properties, and color fastness to light with the aim of using it as a fashion material. Hanji made by adding inorganic pigments showed an approximately 20% retention ratio on average. This figure was similar to those of loess and kaolin. Physical properties were analyzed, with the following results. A higher amount of additives lowered the apparent density and increased thickness and bulk. In general, inorganic pigment-added Hanji had lower tensile strength, bursting strength, and folding endurance compared to non-additive Hanji. The analysis of optical properties showed a lower brightness index for Hanji made with inorganic pigments compared to non-additive Hanji. When comparing the two inorganic pigments, the brightness of Hanji made with kaolin was higher. Regarding color fastness to light, loess showed level 4 and kaolin showed level 5 when 25% inorganic pigments on pulp were added to Hanji. Thus, Hanji made by adding inorganic pigments during the manufacturing process may perform well as materials for fashion because the additives enhanced both the color fastness to light and the bulk while maintaining the strength. In addition, Hanji dyed with inorganic pigments may have the potential to serve as materials for the fashion industry while still retaining the characteristics of Hanji.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.11
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• pp.131-140
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability, antibacterial activity and deodorization on cotton and silk fabrics dyed with extracted solution from gardenia. The results are as follows: 1. The K/S value of silk fabrics was higher than that of cotton fabrics, and the K/S value was slightly increased by mordanting with $SnCl_2.2H_2O$ and $K_2Cr_2O_{7}$ on cotton and silk fabrics. 2. Cotton fabrics showed yellow from GY to Y and silk fabrics showed yellow or reddish yellow from GY to Y-YR. 3. The fastness to washing of cotton fabrics was very poor and that of silk fabrics was middle or lower, excluding good fastness to wool contamination of both fabrics. The fastness to dry cleaning and rubbing of both fabrics was very good. The fastness to perspiration of cotton fabrics was middle or higher, but that of silk fabrics was much better than that of cotton fabrics. The fastness to the light of both fabrics showed very poor with 1 grade. Dyeing fastness was slightly improved by mordanting on both fabrics. 4. Silk and cotton fabrics did not show antibacterial activity, but the activity of silk fabrics was higher than that of cotton fabrics. The antibacterial activity was increased by mordanting. 5. The deodorization of dyed cotton and silk fabrics was excellent, and that of silk fabrics showed better than that of cotton fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.89-95
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• 2020

In this study, the efficacy of Amaranth(Amaranthus spp. L.) as a natural dye resource was investigated for wool fabrics. It is known that a large amount of flavonoid and anthocyanin colorant are contained in leaves and stems, as well as red flowers. The optimum condition of dyeing was 1.3% of dye concentration(o.w.b.) at 100℃ for 60 minutes, resulting the K/S value, 23.43 and R Munsell color on the wool fabrics. Al, Fe, Zinc and Titanium were used as a mordant. The mordant improved the dye uptake, regardless of the mordant type and mordant method. The pre-mordanting method was more effective than the post-mordanting method. Al pre-mordanted fabric showed the highest K/S, 30.02. Light fastness and washing fastness were high in grades 4-5 and 5, and rubbing fastness was good in grades 4 and 4-5 in dry condition, but low in grades 2-3 and 3 in wet condition. The dry cleaning fastness was excellent in all 5 grades. However, the alkaline perspiration fastness ratings were low in grades 2-3 and 3. The results show Amaranthus spp. L. colorant can be used as a functional natural dye for wool fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.154-160
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• 2005

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Puerariae Radix was studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Puerariae Radix were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of Puerariae Radix solution was at 290nm and 301nm. The pH effect was stable in the color difference changes. The optimum temperature to extract Puerariae Radix was during 1 hour in loot. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were 80$\~$ 100$^{circ}C$, 1hour. The silk fabrics dyed with Puerariae Radix appeared yellow-brown. US value of dyeing fabrics was increased by Fe, and Cu mordant treatment. Mordanting treatment method affected color change of the dyed silk. In the case of Puerariae Radix light fastness of appeared more than 2-5 grades by mordant treatment. Perspiration fastness of appered more than 4 grades by Al, Sn, Cr mordant treatment. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning appered more than 4-5 grades. These fastness improvement were generally effective for mordant treatment, specially Al, Sn, Cr.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.222-229
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• 2009

The natural dyeing of cotton fabrics with Rumex crispus L. root extract was investigated. The dyeability of Rumex crispus L. root extract was evaluated with conditions of concentration, temperature, time, repeat-numbers, pH, mordants variables, methods of mordanting, color fastness and antibacterial activity, etc. The maximum V-visible spectrum possessed absorption band of Rumex crispus L. extract appeared at 274nm and 336nm. The amount of dyes extracted was increased with extracting concentration, temperature and time. The K/S value increased with increasing dyeing concentration and repeat-numbers. The K/S value increased with increasing dyeing temperature and time, the exhaustion was saturated in $90^{\circ}C\;and\;80min$, respectively. Surface colors of fabrics dyed with pH 3, 7, 11 extract were RP-R-YR-Y range. The light fastness and washing fastness showed good results in Fe-mordanted. The dry leaning fastness appeared more than 4 grade. Rubbing fastness was better in dry methods han that in wet methods. In the result of antibacterial activity, the decrease rate was 9.9% to Staphylococcus aureus with the dyed fabric of cotton.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.11-19
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dyes, the mordanting and dyeing properties of cochineal and carminic acid were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of cochineal were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of cochineal solution was 495nm, carminic acid was 533nm and 577nm. The color of carminic acid solution was affected by pH 6~9. The optimum temperature to extract cochineal was $80-100^\circ{C}$ and dyeing solution for 1 hour. And effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was $80^\circ{C}$, and its time was 30min. In case mordants concentration, the maximum absorbance of Sn solution was 3%, K, Cu and Cr were in 1%. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordant treatment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. In the case of cochineal light fastness was increased by mordant treatment, specially Fe treatment. Perspiration fastness was good in acidic solution than in alkaline solution and perspiration fastness of cochineal was poor. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good and these fastness improvement were generally effective for post-mordanting treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.8
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• pp.1484-1492
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• 2001

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dye, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Lithodpermum officinale were studied. Appropriate extraction, dveing and mordanting conditions of Lithodpermum officinale were determined, and the effect of mordanting no dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbances of Lithopermum officinale solution were at 521 and 561 mn, shikonin solution were 517 and 556 mn. According to the UV-VIS spectroscopy of shikonin solution showed batho chromic shift with the increase of temperature and the absorbance of shikonin solution increased with the increase of temperature. The color of Lithodpermum officinale solution was affected by pH 8∼9, they became dark, reduced reddish and bluish. The optimum conditions for extraction from Lithodpermum officinale were at 80$\^{C}$ and for 1 hour and at 25$\^{C}$ for 24 hours. And effective dyeing conditions with silk fabric were temperature at 80∼100$\^{C}$ and period for 60min. K/S value and color fastness of dyed fabrics were increased by mordanting treatment. In the case of Lithodpermum officinale light fastness was better than Sophora japonica, Gaesalpinia Sappan, Rhusjara,. Cochineal dyeing fabrics. Perspiration fastness of Lithodpermum officinale were good. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good these fastness improvement were generatlly effected by post-mordanting treatment.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.17 no.6 s.85
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• pp.11-19
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• 2005

Textile dyeing with vat dyes has the highest color fastness although one and the same dye of all vat dyes cannot always satisfy every color fastness requirement. So we examined cotton, nylon 6, and polyester fabrics dyed with vat dyes. Cotton, nylon 6 and polyester fabrics were dyed with vat dyes such as C. I. Vat Blue 1, Blue 19, Black 9, Green 1, Orange 2, and Violet 1 containing sodium hydrosulfite and NaOH. Oxidation were carried out by a sodium peroxoborate after dyeing. The dyed materials were soaped at the boil after oxidation. Especially hydrolysis and overreduction for dyed polyester with vats dyes containing -NHCO- and -NH- groups such as C. I. Vat Blue 6, Black 25, Black 27, Red 10, and Green 3 occurred. It seems that these phenomena are due to a high dyeing temperature. Wash and rubbing fastness of nylon are higher than that of cotton and polyester. Light fastness of cotton is higher than that of polyester and nylon.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.5 s.90
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• pp.30-34
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• 2006

Polypropylene fiber was dyed with 4 super hydrophobic dyes having different alkyl derivatives on the same chromophore. Double-tailed cationic surfactant, didodecyldimethylammonium bromide(DDAB), was used to make dye-dispersant complex to improve the dispersion of dyes. As the alkyl groups are longer and the hydrophobicity is increased, the dyeability onto polypropylene fiber was improved and deep coloration was obtained. As for the fastness properties, wash fastness was relatively good, while light fastness was bit low.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.14-22
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• 2008

The present paper focuses on the application of commercial acid dyes and wool reactive dyes to casein protein fabric. Nine acid dyes and six wool reactive dyes were compared their dyeing properties as well as color fastness. The exhaustion yields were higher than 80 % which dramatically increased at pH 3. Excellent wash fastness was obtained with metal-complex acid and wool reactive dyes. Both light and rubbing fastness were overall good, but perspiration fastness was comparatively poor.