• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.71-82
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• 2011

This paper examined the kinds and characteristics of leather and also analyzed the expression techniques and characteristics of leather in contemporary fashion. The objective of this study lies in re-interpreting the current location of leather in contemporary fashion design, enlarging unlimited potential expression fields of leather, and at the same time, helping create new viewpoints and expression types of leather. For this purpose, this paper examined the kinds and characteristics of leather through the existing literatures, and it also carried out positive analysis of the expression techniques and characteristics of leather clothes through local and foreign fashion magazines and collection papers, such as Gap, Vogue, and Mode & Mode, focusing on the works presented in the fashion collections after 2000. Leather in contemporary fashion is expressed in different colors through dyeing. Through various expression techniques such as wrinkles, ruffle, stitch, embossing, quilting, patchwork, holing, nailing, cutting, laser cutting, fringe, weaving, printing, and collage, leather breaks the fixed ideas of itself and further, it makes the images of fashion design affluent. Leather clothes, which are made through various expression techniques, have some characteristics. First, leather clothes emphasize women's voluptuous beauty. Second, leather clothes create a decorative effect through mixture of materials and various expression techniques. Third, through the feel of materials and the emphasis of shapes, primitive beauty is expressed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.77-86
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• 2017

This study aims to explore the unethical issues in leather processing and to develop designs of leather products based on the concept of reincarnation by ecosystem circulation. The method used in this research include the review of previous literature and the design process for development fashion accessories using waste leather. The design process comprises collecting waste leather, classifying waste leather by type, color, and size, and developing leather products according to line carnation method. For this research, the material was limited to waste cowhide leather collected from leather workshops and leather product factories. The leather pieces were divided into typical and atypical types and developed leather accessories based on the leather piece's color and size. A twill brooch, four-string bracelet, a brooch using the four-stringed leather strap and mini handbag designs were developed using regular type waste leather. An armband of abstract patterns and a cellphone case with graffiti pattern using irregular type over-splitting waste leather. The environmental issues in design are observed as part of understanding the significance of this study. Development of waste leather accessory can expand the usability of the waste leather as well as increase the product value by creating limited-line editions. By understanding the role and benefits of sustainable upcycling, this research suggests an efficient way to use waste materials in fashion to coexist with the natural environment.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.97-113
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• 2019

Among the many factors affecting fashion trends, the concept of war has been particularly instrumental throughout human history. Specifically, military uniforms worn during the WWI and WWII became popular fashion styles that introduced military uniforms to modern fashion and continue to be influential to this day. And the fashion accessories market is continuously demanding new styles. The purpose of this study is to investigate the reasons why military uniforms have been continued to be influential in contemporary fashion, to apply fashionable features of military uniforms, and to make leather accessories by using leather-carving techniques. The characteristics of military uniforms were analyzed in advance research, domestic and international literature, and cases applied in modrern fashion collection. In conclusion, five modern fashion accessories were developed by combining the form, function, and decorative elements of the military uniform that have been constantly reflected in modern fashion with leather handcraft carving techniques. This study is meant to suggest the possibility of developing artistic and original fashion accessories that are both practical and reflect the history of military uniforms.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.57-64
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• 2013

This research examines the environmental consciousness of fashion consumer attitudes towards eco-friendly products and artificial leather purchase intentions. The survey was conducted from March 11 to March 15 2012 and all respondents had at least once experience of purchasing fashion items made of artificial leather. A total of 426 subjects were used in the dataset; the statistical analysis methods were frequency analysis, factor analysis, reliability analysis and multiple analysis. The results are as follows. The study finds that environmental consciousness has three dimensions of public participation, resource conservation, and recycling. Public participation, recycling, and resource conservation influenced eco-friendly product attitudes. Eco-friendly product attitudes influenced artificial leather purchase intentions. The research results show that appropriate plans in fashion business such as usefulness of design and business value will need to be provided to fashion consumers. Detailed information on materials related to fashion products as the content of environment-friendly techniques and recycling methods will help consumers to evaluate environmental-friendly attitude products.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.122-134
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• 2022

This study is conducted on hardening leather with improved firmness and stability of shape, based on research on types and thickness of leather. The purpose of this study is to test the physical properties of the leather for molding to prepare the foundation for leather molding based on the test results using four methods by thickness of Vegetable and Split. The tests were conducted using a total of five leather types, including three types of vegetable leathers and two types of split, by thickness. Based on the testing method for leathers in KS M 6882, the tests were performed at 27℃ with relative humidity of 65±20%. The samples were prepared with cowhide, size 9cm× 2cm. The measurement parameters are length and width. thickness, volume, mass, density. Regarding the hardening treatment method, changes in appearance and major physical characteristics of leather were reviewed by soaking in hot water, dry heating, hammering, waxing, and olive oil coating. The study results are as follows. In planar works, it is judged that hardening work using a hammer is more suitable for stiffness or density in order to prevent easy breakage with adult muscle density, rather than boiling water or baking. In conclusion, there is no curling, soot, or breaking phenomenon, and the densest curing method is 50℃ for 20 sec of V2 and 75℃ for 60 sec of V2 in boiling water. The combination of paraffin treatment improve waterproof and quality.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.69-69
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• 2003

In the late 1970s, Punk style that appeared according to the social reaction among labor class youngsters has reappeared till now, and also the emotion and mode are working on fashion greatly. In addition to that, as it pervades to young generation more freely, it's becoming a kind of origin in creative fashion. Especially, Punk style leather jacket has spread to high fashion and settled down as an essential item through popularization of leather jacket.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.66-78
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• 2004

A leather clothes which was a representative item of an existed resistant image created a new esthetics. Cyber Resistance, being mixed with the highlighted cyber image in these days. Especially. the image of such new leather clothes appears apparently in SF movies. The purpose of this study is to examine this new esthetics through the leather clothes of the movie. $\ulcorner$Matrix$\urcorner$. currently becoming the subject of a conversation and affecting to a popular culture and the fashion and to help to the design idea of a unique leather clothes. The result of analyzing of the character in the movie is following. Trinity shows herself as a woman warrior by wearing tight black leather suit. Morpheus is described as a vague character with his old fashioned suit and leather trench coat. while Niobe carries an image of rebellious cyber warrior in her leather suit with unique texture. In addition. leather clothes on $\ulcorner$Matrix$\urcorner$ got the name of Matrix look and became a main theme in fashion collection. We can feel 'Cyber Resistance' esthetics in that leather clothes through the movie and fashion collection and summarize into three following features, First. it's grafted into the dichotomous value by progress and return as a retro futurism. Second. it moderately express a rebellious image of punk into a cyber image. Third. it makes cyber warrior's image that is neutralized mixing military and fetish properly.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.79-89
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• 2017

Sensory attributes and preferences that contribute to consumer satisfaction with artificial leather were measured by subjective evaluation, and subjective hand and preferences were analyzed in relation to its use. Using tactile and visual senses, 50 experts in fashion and textile industry evaluated leathers classified into two categories, suede and polyurethane coated, according to different manufacturing methods. They answered questions on subjective hand and preferences of different artificial leathers of various fashion items (jackets, purses, bags, shoes, boots, furniture, etc.), using specific adjectives to describe the hand properties. As a result, it was found that the subjective hand properties of artificial leathers were related to 'Thickness', 'Fullness/softness', 'Surface contour', 'Stickiness', and 'Elasticity'. The leather type from different manufacturing methods influenced their perceived hand and preferences relating to use. By use, different hands were preferred. The preferences for jackets and furniture of suede type leathers were related to their surface properties, whereas the preferences for items of the other type of leathers were associated with their resilience. On the other hand, in the case of polyurethane coated leathers, the preferences for jackets were significantly affected by their thickness, while those for the other items were influenced by their resilience and surface properties.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.1018-1023
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• 2012

Smartphone is integrated into the daily lives of all types of people not even young generation. A touch screen display is a primary input device of a smart phone, a tablet computer, etc. While there are many tough technologies in existence, resistive and capacitive are dominant and currently lead the touch screen panel industry. And a capacitive touch screen panel widely used in smart phones is coated with a material that stores electrical charges. In this study, we tried to manufacture gloves produced with electro-conducting leather as a tool to operate a touch panel screen. Therefore, electrically conductive materials, Polyaniline(PANI), Poly(3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene) (PEDOT), and Carbon nanotubes (CNT) were applied to the surface of leather to be used as a touching operator for capacitive touch screen panel. The leather samples were treated by simple painting method; firstly, they were painted with aqueous solution containing each of the electrically conductive materials and then dried. This cycle was repeated three times. Consequently, the treated leather samples showed electrical conductivity and reasonable working performance to the capacitive touch screen. And, PANI showed the best performance and highest electrical conductivity, and then PEDOT and, CNT in decreasing order. This is because the solubilities of PANI and PEDOT show higher than dispersibility of CNT. Thus, the concentration of conducting polymers was greater than that of CNT in the treating solutions.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.64-72
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• 2004

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the changing fashion image of the glossy materials including metal, leather, vinyl, latex, plastic etc. from 1960's to the present. Glossy materials used in the second half of the 20th century showed a restricted image combined with a specific social circumstance. They expressed a reflection of young and future-oriented space period of 1960s. Many designers like Paco Rabanne and Andre Courreges were concerned with the fashion of space age and expressed that image with leather and synthetic materials including silver leather, metal chain armor, and plastic appeared as the keynote of fashion. In 1970's, glossy material was the symbol of avant-garde and rebellious attitude by the punk fashion. They maximized glamourous look of 1980s, and cyber look with an expectation for a new millenium of 1990s. On the other side, glossy materials seem to be used as a source of various inspiration of fashion designer in the 21st century. Also, some of the past images, for example space look and glamourous look, are revived in the 21 st century by the form of modified design.