Each and everything named fashion together with clothes were limited in the boundary of women and men's wear has been slow and narrow in changing speed compared to women's, even there are some differences in accordance time. But maintaining the basic features, men's wear in the latter 20th century has undergone diverse change in the part of materials such as various synthetic fiber, glass, metal, artificial leather and the see-through fabric able to seeing the body wearing the clothes. Therefore, the aim and definition of this study is to present the systematic framework giving help to develop men's wear design newer and more various by considering moulding of materials which existing men's wear could not show up and by grasping material trend of men's clothes in 1990s. The results of the study were summarized as follows : (1) Material containing lustering is categorized as Velvet, Silk, Lustering materials by synthetic fiber and Lustering materials by additional substance. The Velvet generally acknowledged having something to feel womanly image shows the bisexual character coexisting feature of men and women after grafting with men'fashion. The Silk was endowed the role as means of pleasure to express beyond boundary of sex breaking the existing consciousness which men should wear male clothes, not considering differences between men and women. The lustering made by synthetic fiber expressed modern sensitivity aesthetically to the suit. The lustering materials made by additional substance is seen mixed masculine character with womanly character. (2) See-through materials are acknowledged as decadence beauty caused by expanding subjective awareness in beauty. (3) Materials by the sorts of Net is categorized as Lace, Knit The Lace expression seemed to emphases the human liberation of men and women and the humanity from liberation of subjecthood. The Knit can be felt both woman's image and man's image as bisexual image, not raising only one side sex. (4) Elastic materials offered the opportunity to approve exposure in a time when exposure of men's body was not granted ethically. (5) Leather was shown as indication of social status and inferiority and expression of collective resistance against sexual stagnation of men and women.
Xiognu people were the first of the Central-Asian nomads to establish a nation in 209 B.C. They always moved around looking for places to breed their animals and fertile grounds, so they wore clothes made of fur and leather and covered their tents with felt from the livestock. This research studies on the literatures, costumes and the achievement of archaeological excavation. Furthermore, to investigate on costumes excavated of Xiongnu, we visited the Mongolian National Museum and the Hermitage Museum. A corn-hat made of felt, a felt hat with ear flaps and a golden crown with a bird on the top were unearthed from a tomb of Xiongnu in Inner mongolia. Women usually wore pigtails, and men wore pigtails or ponytails but they cut their hair short when holding a funeral. Many pigtails discovered in Noyon uul tombs can be considered as their funeral customs. The Xiongnu wore a round or v-neck caftan attached straight sleeves reaching knees in the left folded style, and because they always rode horses, having the length of the caftan not go past their buttocks would have made it more convenient for them. During the period of Western Han, Ho refered to Xiongnu and it became a common name for northern races. They used leather belts and an animal-designed buckle was found. Women commonly rouged their cheeks for a vivid and cute look, and many ornaments were excavated including bracelets, rings and decorations made of gold, silver, copper and jade, among which there were hair ornaments used to identify one's class. A horse pattern with wings and a horn of Golmod T20 was substitution for the Schythian use of deer. Patterns or shape of unearthed articles present in the Xiongnu culture in Noyon uul had a close relationship with Altaic, Greek and Persian cultures. The Xiongnu clothing was made of animals' skin and fur, woolen textiles and felt. It was folded to the left for upper garments, and the pants were adjusted using a belt and shoes were made of leather, which was very suitable for protection against the cold and horse riding. Mobility played a significant role in their clothing.
In this study, we tried to evaluate the ignitibility, flammability, heat release rate, and toxicity of five different types of burning artificial leather sofa covers that are widely used in entertainment service industry buildings. As the results of this study, putting the artificial leathers under fire conditions we found out following results auto-ignition temperature was$ 427~437^{\circ}C$, limiting oxygen index was 19~20%; at heat flux of $25 kW\m^2$, ignition time was 10~16s and peak heat release rate was $147~277 kW\m^2$; and at heat flux of$ 35 kW\m^2$, ignition time was 6~9s and peak heat release rate was $176~296 kW\m^2$. The toxic materials discharged from the burning leathers were 5,550~6,290 ppm of CO, 18,500~23,400 ppm of $CO_2$, 110~140 ppm, of HCl, 13~65 ppm of HCN and 145~220 ppm of NOx.
Adhesive binders with core-shell structure of organic/organic pair were prepared by emulsion polymerization of acrylic monomers, such as methyl methacrylate(MMA), ethyl acrylate(EA), n-butyl acrylate(BA), and styrene(St). Ammonium persulfate (APS) was used as an water soluble initiator in the presence of an anionic surfactant, sodium dodecyl benzene sulfonate (SDBS). Non-woven fabric and leather were impregnated with the adhesive binder. The surface of the impregnated fabric and leather were treated with plasma technique and then kinetics analysis and mechanical properties were measured. The conversions of the polymerization of core-shell binder (MMA/EA, MMA/BA) were greater than 90%. When the core-shell binder was prepared at equimolar conditions, the increasing effect of the core-shell binder on the state peel strength of the impregnated and plasma-treated non-woven/non-woven fabric has the order of MMA/St, EA/BA, BA/MMA, EA/St, and EA/MMA. When the core-shell binder was prepared at non-equimolar conditions, the increasing effect of the core-shell binder on the state peel strength of the non-woven fabric/leather has the order of MMA/BA, BA/EA, MMA/EA, St/MMA, and EA/St.
To treat leather industry wastewater (LIW) containing high nitrogen concentration, eight aerobic denitrifiers were isolated from sludge existing in an LIW-treatment aeration tank. Among them, one strain named as KH8 had showed the great ability in denitrification under an aerobic condition, and it was identified as Pseudomonas aeruginosa R12. The aerobic denitrification ability of the strain KH8 was almost comparable to its anaerobic denitrification ability. In lab-scale aerobic denitrifications performed in 1-L five-neck flasks for 48 hr, denitrification efficiency was found to be much improved as the strain KH8 held a great majority in the seeded cells. From the nitrogen balance at the cell-combination ratio of 10:1 (the strain KH8 to the other seven isolates) within the seeded cells, the percentage of nitrogen loss during the aerobic denitrification process was estimated to be 58.4, which was presumed to be converted to $N_2$ gas. When these seeded cells with lactose were applied to plant-scale aeration tank for 56 day to treat high-strength nitrogen in LIW, the removal efficiencies of $COD_{Cr}$ and TN were achieved to be 97.0% and 89.8%, respectively. Under this treatment, the final water quality of the effluent leaving the treatment plant was good enough to meet the water-quality standards. Consequently, the isolated aerobic denitrifiers could be suitable for the additional requirement of nitrogen removal in a limited aeration-tank capacity. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first report of aerobic denitrifiers applied to plant-scale LIW treatment.
The advanced wastewater treatment plant of leather industry was selected to evaluated with its effluent water quality and statistical characteristics. Most of pollutants removal efficiencies were over 90% as well. And 95% reliability of effluent concentration were 106.8 mg/L of $COD_{mn}$, 72.04 mg/L of TN. However Effluent quality of TN exceeds the regulated limit. The range of coefficient of variation (CV) were between 0.18 and 2.49. Also, coefficient of reliability (COR) were between $0.03(BOD_5){\sim}0.63(COD_{mn})$ and 0.43 in terms of T-N, $Z_{l-a}$(Normalized Percentiles) value were 55.7 and 2.25 in terms of $BOD_5$ and T-N as shown in the following table.
The objective of this study was to investigate the effect of bulking agents including cow manure, saw dust and rice straw in the ripening of leather sludge for vermistabilization. The changes of the waste properties for ripening time for 50 days were observed according to the various mixture ratios of leather sludge and bulking agents. The pH values of the mixture wastes were decreased from 7.5-8.0 to 6.4-7.3 with the ripening time for 50 days, and it was indifferent of the mixture ratio and type of the bulking agent. The initial value of oxidation-reduction potential(Eh) of the mixture waste was a negative(-)value indicating an unfavorable condition for earthworm life, but the values of Eh were increased with the ripening time. The increase rate of Eh value was proportional to the mixture ratio of bulking agents, but the increase rate for saw dust was higher than that of the cow manure and the rice straw. The value of alkalinity was also changed into the favorable range for earthworm after 50 days except for 10% of the mixture ratio of the bulking agents. When the mixture ratios of the bulking agents were increased from 10% to 40%, the growth characteristics of earthworms were increased from 31.7% to 95% for the survival rate, 103% to 225% for the liveweight increase rate and 32% to 91% for hatching rate of the cocoons. It can be concluded that the proper content of the bulking agents in the leather sludge to ensure effective vermistabilization was over 30%, when the mixture was ripened during 50 days. The contents of heavy metals in the ripened sludge were lower than the other regulatory standards for compost.
The purpose of this study is to analyze how the women´s fashion with the design elements(silhouette, material, color, detail and trimming) of androgynous image which has appeared on our specialized fashion magazine from 1986 through 2000. As a result of this study I drew the following conclusion. 1. The bon silhouette led the market in the first stage of mid 1980. The wool and leather with the masculine image, cotton and soft material with unisex image were used to express the androgynous image. The dark and mono tone with the masculine image were used a lot in color. In women´s fashion the minimalism style with simple image was expressed escaping from the decoration, in which the detail and trimming was not found as in men´s wear. 2. It showed that more and more feminine image was accepted in the second stage of early 1990. Women´s wear silhouette with the androgynous image has changed from masculine box silhouette boomed in the first stage to hourglass silhouette and slim silhouette. The wool and leather were used a lot as the materials in the first stage but the usage of the cotton with unisex image and soft texture were getting increased. The main colors were the black and the blue but the usage of the white and the red were on the increase showing the range of the use was extending. In the meantime, the detail and trimming were hardly used like in the first stage. 3. In the third stage of the late 1990, the silhouette has changed to slim style. The wool and leather were mainly used as the materials but the cotton and silk were on the increase showing that the materials of the feminine image were used in the women´s fashion with the androgynous image as well as the materials of masculine image. In color, the black and the white of the masculine image were used increasingly by the effect of the minimalism and the usage of the colors were various for the rising frequency of the trend colors usage.
Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
/
v.29
no.4
/
pp.618-625
/
2012
In this study, prepared synthesis waterborne acrylic resin and water soluble milk casein resin. And than extent of casein contents in acrylic resin. We measured property of these samples by Lamb leather which is coated by acrylic-casein resins. According to measure data for solvent resistance, WAR resin and Hybrid resins had good property. Among this result knew that increase of casein constant did not influence to big change of hybrid resin property. As test of tensile strength, WAR had lowest strength($1.399kg_f/mm^2$) and WAC-3 had highest strength($1.426kg_f/mm^2$). Also we knew that best property of abrasion was WAC-3(69.774 mg.loss). In elongation case, WAR had best property(820%) in this experiment.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.41
no.3
/
pp.446-457
/
2017
This study surveys the usage and satisfaction of car seat covers, analyzes the satisfaction and luxuriousness of materials used and provides basic data on optimum car seat covers that improve consumer satisfaction, stability, and comfort, while driving. The survey was conducted on 150 people in their 20s to 60s with a car. Consequently, achromatic colored car seat covers were used most and the satisfaction with black was very high. Interior & exterior harmony and the pursued car image were considered important, this consumer psychology impacted the color selection for car seat covers. The satisfaction reasons were different according to materials. Genuine leather was highly regarded in interior & exterior harmony (20.8%), excellent seat sensation (17.7%), excellent tactile sensation (11.5%), and luxuriousness (8.5%). For artificial leather, interior & exterior harmony (16.5%) and easiness of stain removal (13.6%) was rated high and fabric had excellent seat sensation (12.3%) and economics (10.8%). The material, heated and ventilated device affected car seat cover satisfaction. The luxurious image of car seat covers was pursed and was perceived mainly with a sense of sight. Luxury car seat covers were mainly created with materials. Genuine leather and black car seat covers increased luxuriousness. For car seat covers, those with flexibility, excellent compressive elasticity, and thickness were perceived as luxurious.
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