• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.34-49
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• 2011

This study is the design case analysis of seamless knitwear in order to suggest a new direction of high value-added seamless knitwear and seek for its possibility. Seamless knitwear is the up-to-date knit product that is made by a knitting machine without sewing, and it maintains elasticity of a material itself and is the closest type to the essence of knitwear. The seamless knitwear can satisfy satisfaction of customers with more elegance and individuality and become a method to develop a high value-added design. This study suggests a new direction for the 21st century knitwear design through a practical approach of seamless knitwear designs, pursues a high value fashion, and contributes to improving national competitiveness of fashion industries in order to be a practical research data for seamless knitwear designs.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.25-36
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive technique of grunge look in knitwear fashion. For this study, I have investigated theories of retro and decontructionism trends, and have examined pictures from professional fashion magazines. The results of study on the expressive technique of grunge look reflected on the knitwear fashion were as follows; (1) patchwork technique, which is an outstanding method of recycling, (2) handknitting technique, which came from retro trend of hippism, (3) unfinished edge, which emphasized the image of poverty and incompleteness, (4) irregular lace knitting and slash technique, which is the typical details of grunge look and denies the traditional fashion order, (5) hand stitch technique using various materials, which gives second-hand mood of hippie look, and (6) fringe details, which originated from the unfinished edge technique.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.273-279
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• 2000

Interlace textured yarn was developed in order to increase weaving process efficiency. Today, interlace texturing is very useful method of manufacturing the high added value compound yarns for new synthetic fabrics. In this research, new silky type high added value compound yarns were. manufactured by interlace texturing technology and tested their properties. The object of this research is to investigate the relationship between interlace textured yarn properties and processing parameters that is air pressure, yarn tension and take-up speed. The original filament yarns used were TTD(Thick & Thin Semi-Dull) 110d/72f and SCD(Semi-Dull Cation Dyeable) 75d/36f. 27 specimens were manufactured and tested for their physical properties-nip density, tensile properties, multi-step shrinkage test and surface structure by SEM. The air pressure was main process condition to change properties of interlace textured yarns. And interlace textured process had influence on weaving preparation process, weaving, knitting and so on. It has some influence on shrinkage properties of dyeing and finishing processes.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.125-143
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• 2015

This study has investigated the status of utilizing 3D printing in fashion field in order to keep up with the trend for 3D printing technology to be realized in all industries so that the materials and the modeling modes may be figured out. The following is the findings. The materials used most in 3D printing in fashion field are PA, PLA, TPU, multi-material, ABS and metal. PA, TPU and Multi-material have so much excellent flexibility and strength that they are widely used for garment, shoes and such fashion items as bags. But PLA, ABS and metal are scarcely used for garment because PLA is easily biodegradable in the air, ABS generates harmful gas in the process of manufacture and metal is not flexible, while all of these three are partly used for shoes and accessories. The modeling modes mainly applied for 3D printing in fashion field are SLS, SLA, FDM and Polyjet. SLS, which is of a powder-spraying method, is used for making 3D textile seen just like knitting. Polyjet method, which has higher accuracy and excellent flexibility, can be used for expressing diverse colors, and accordingly it is used a lot for high-quality garment, while SLA and FDM method are found to be mostly used for manufacturing shoes and accessories rather than for making garment because they are easily shrunk to result in deformation.

• 한국전산구조공학회논문집
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• 제37권4호
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• pp.259-265
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• 2024

형상기억합금(SMA)-섬유 액추에이터는 소프트 로봇 공학 및 웨어러블 기술을 포함한 다양한 분야에서 큰 주목을 받아왔다. 이러한 부드러운 액추에이터는 SMA와 단순 직물 섬유를 결합하여 개발되었으며, K 루프와 P 루프라는 두 가지 루프 패턴으로 편직되었다. 두 루프 모두 루프 헤드 형상으로 인해 반대 굽힘 특성으로 구별된다. 그러나 이러한 액추에이터 시트의 편직 공정에는 전문 지식과 시간이 필요하므로 편직 루프 작동 시트의 생산 비용이 높아진다. 이 논문에서는 전압을 가할 때 큰 변형이 발생하는 SMA 직물 기반 액추에이터의 변형을 평가하는 새로운 방법을 소개하였다. SMA 재료의 매우 비선형적인 구성 방정식으로 인해 수치 분석을 위한 분석 모델을 개발하는 것은 어렵다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 SMA 재료의 대변형을 고려하면서 SMA-섬유 액추에이터의 초기 설계에 사용할 수 있는 선형 구성 방정식을 활용하는 새로운 접근 방식을 제안하였다. 전기-기계연성 효과를 모델링할 수 있는 선형구성방적식은 ABAQUS의 UMAT을 사용하여 구현하였다. 이 등가 단위 셀 모델(EUC)은 K-루프와 P-루프의 실험적 굽힘 작동 결과와 비교하여 검증하였다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.472-483
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyse the effects of knit samples' mechanical properties on changes of skirt length of knit flared skirt, and to compare it to the knitting method of a seamless knitted flare skirt. So, I compared the appearance and 3-dimensional shape of a seamless knitted flare skirt with those of a fully cut knit flared skirt. For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The results are as follows: The result of the evaluation of knit samples' mechanical properties by the KES-FB system showed that elongation decreased as gauge increased and course direction was greatest among grain directions. The length change after wearing the knitted flare skirts appeared wholly equal to the seamless knitted, compared with the cut and sew. The change was biggest at $180^{\circ}$, 7G of the cut and sew. In grain direction, bias cut showed more than 1.2cm of length change. As the weight and thickness increased, the length changes become larger. The regression analysis indicated that the greatest contributive variables on the length changes were elongation, weight, and thickness.

• 한국표면공학회지
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• 제56권5호
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• pp.309-319
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• 2023

Non-woven fabric is a textile product made by spinning thermoplastic polymers without manufacturing processes such as stretching, doubling, twisting, weaving, and knitting to form a sheet-shaped web in which fibers are tangled with each other, and then combining them by mechanical and physical methods. In addition, the non-woven fabric manufacturing process has various raw material choices, high productivity, so it is a textile manufacturing technology that can have various uses and increase added value. This study was conducted to control the shape and physical properties of products by improving the manufacturing method of melt-blown non-woven fabrics using process technology that easily changes the shape of non-woven fabrics and improves mechanical properties. In particular, it is considered that a non-woven fabric with a thin material shape and improved mechanical properties will be easily applied to a continuous secondary battery manufacturing industry such as roll to roll operation.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.465-475
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• 2010

For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. Samples differed from each other by skirt angles($90^{\circ}$, $180^{\circ}$), gauges(7G, 12G, 15G), and grain directions(bias direction, wale direction, and radial direction). After measuring the mechanical properties of various gauges on the seamless knitting machine, I compared shape of the knitted flare skirt through subjective evaluation on appearances. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, Duncan-test, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The subjective evaluation on appearances of knitted flare skirts showed the following: In case of $90^{\circ}$ skirt, the seamless skirt showed a much higher score in every gauge expect that of the cut and sew 12G, and silhouette of 15G wale direction. In case of the $180^{\circ}$ skirt, the seamless type showed a much higher score in every item over the cut and sew expect the silhouette part of 7G wale direction.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.45-53
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• 2008

Different method of textile fabrication had existed since the ancient times, but the most dominant form was the 'weaving' method which embodies the cross fabrication of vertical and horizontal threads using special weaving machines (looms). In addition, fabrication methods like knitting, felt, and lace were commonly practiced while intertwinement methods like twisting, braiding, and knotting techniques were frequently used for weaving strings and braid type textiles. In the past, people did not pay attention to strings and braids because they were classified as non-textiles, but, in this paper, we have expanded the scope of definition of textile to include strings and braids, and seek to conduct in-depth research on various different intertwinement of textiles. The adaptation of intertwinement method in arts and crafts enables limitless creative works reflecting the ever-changing taste and style of the creator. This creativity is further broadened by the fact that intertwinement methods encompass no set patterns and the subject and shape of its creation is as broad as its artistic pursuits. We can infer the knowledge of our ancestors, their aesthetic taste, and the pattern of life from these creations. In addition, these creations can provide comfort and improve the quality of life of modem people who are deeply deprived of sentimental and emotional solitude in the technological civilization of the 21stcentury. The main purpose of this paper is to examine traditional Korean arts and crafts made using the intertwinement methodology through the context of strings, braids, straw crafts and knotting method. Then it will conduct through research on the different materials, forms, characteristics, usage and other key notions based on the currently preserved records and relics to contribute to the research on traditional textiles and provide the foundations to the development of the Korean culture and cultural products, reflecting the true sole and aesthetics of traditional Korean textile crafts.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권5호
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• pp.700-713
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics and symbolism of peony, the traditional noble flower, create knit fashion designer applying the aesthetic beauty of flower, and suggest the various possibility of developing knit fashion design. As for the study method, the study conducted review on literature and previous studies to investigate on history, characteristics, symbolism of peony, and examined various expressive technique through previous studies about fashion design using flower images. To express characteristics of peony in three dimensions, the study investigated and reflected on crochet expressive technique to design 4 women's knitwear. The results are as below. First, as shape of peony is big, voluminous, fancy and noble, it symbolizes wealth and beauty. Including red which is the generally known color of peony, there are yellow, white, pink, purple, green, blue, black, gray, white purple, white color. This study reflected characteristics and symbolism of peony and created knit fashion design applying abundant aesthetic characteristics of flower. Second, crochet method is advantageous as it is operable with thread and hooked crochet hook without time and space restriction, it can create unique fashion design. Crochet knitting on hand knit can diversity changes to express relief textures, and as there is no limit in size, it can be applied to small props to big pieces. This study suggested the various possibility of knit fashion design development and various expressive possibility on modern fashion design.