• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.13 no.2 s.55
• /
• pp.189-199
• /
• 2005

The purposes of this study are to see a manufacturing process on knit by comparison, and to present whole garment knitting machine different from the traditional method of the production by using the whole garment system. The characteristics of each stage were examined through SDS-one, Shimaseiki Design CAD System and the whole garment knitting machine. The whole garment knitting machine as a method of composing a suit of knitting product is a way of making creative knitting fashion, which also can be used as a basic material for the further study on the whole garment knitting machine. Eventually, it is expected that this machine can satisfy the knit wearers' various needs by showing more useful method to knit designers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.17 no.5
• /
• pp.769-779
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is proposing a knitting method that is suitable for the bodies of women in their 20's and can enhance aesthetic aspect and wearing satisfaction. For this study, four kinds of seamless knit one-pieces were implemented by different knitting method of waist dart each other. The inspection of the exterior and the sensory test of movement adaptability were included in this study. The results of this study were listed below. Exterior evaluation of the four samples results that the sample with outside narrowing and widening get low grade. Thus, we can see that the method having only outside narrowing and widening for waist shaping can cause problems. In addition to that, the sample with inside narrowing and widening get highest grade for almost all test items. The dressing evaluation results that the knitting method of waist dart affect only on the exterior but not on the movement adaptability of the seamless knit one-piece.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.21 no.4
• /
• pp.69-79
• /
• 2019

This study aims to seek knitting methods that can enhance the neck design of seamless knitwear and to find out how to improve the designs by comparing and analyzing the characteristics of the knitting methods used for v-neck pullovers. The investigator analyzed the characteristics of the knitting methods and assessed the wearing sensation by using six different pieces of clothing for the experiment. The results were analyzed based on a variance analysis (ANOVA). Among the items showing significant results, the Duncan-test was used for more intensive research. As a result, while using the basic pattern of knitting methods, Experiment Clothes A ended up binding on the back neckline, and not making the hem of back. Also, the neck was the widest. In the case of the special neck, Experimental Clothes B (1:1), which had the least number of the knitting course in relation to the knitting ratio, the bottom part of the back body had the most wrinkles. According to the result of wearing sensation, the front part, the side part, and the back part showed similar results (p<0.000) in all items. Specifically, the appearance of the Experiment Clothes A (normal) in both the front and rear aspects were evaluated as the best. In the case of the special neck, the Experimental Clothes F was ranked the highest, whereas the Experimental Clothes B (1:1) was ranked the lowest. Based on the results of the study, it seems possible to provide concrete and technical data for the planning of unique and productive designs. With regard to seamless knitwear neck designs, a comparative analysis of the knitting method of v-neck pullovers will be of practical use in the development and manufacturing of the product.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.17 no.6
• /
• pp.1059-1067
• /
• 2009

The knitting method of the sleeves for improving movement adaptability were studied in this paper. The purpose of this study is proposing a knitting method that is suitable for the bodies of women in their 20's and can enhance wearing satisfaction. To see the effect of the bind-off length at the axilla, a movement adaptability test was undertaken for 4 samples that have bind-off at bodices. In addition to that, the analysis of their sliding distance with respect to the human motions were executed. The results of this study were listed below. Its result was that the samples with small bind-off lengths represent better wearing satisfaction than the samples which have large bind-off lengths. The comparison of the sliding distances at the hem, waist and sleeves with respect to the tester's motions also shows that the sample having small bind-off makes better result than the sample with large bind-off. It was observed that the optimal length of bind-off was 2cm for the improvement of the sleeve functionality.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.12 no.6
• /
• pp.361-371
• /
• 2000

The problematic effects of fly creation on circular knitting machines during the knitting process were investigated in order to develop a new method for tackling the problem. A new idea, i.e. coating the yarn surface with a polymer film, was studied. Important physical properties of the coated yarm were studied and compared with normal yarn. A new test-rig was designed to measure the coefficient of friction and the degree of shedding of yarn. Yarns were coated with seven polymer materials and the performance of the coated yarns was tested and the results are discussed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.12 no.4
• /
• pp.61-73
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to create unique formative beauty with free expressive method and to suggest accessory design with individuality through this, by using hand-knitting technique in design of necklace and bangle, which belong to personal ornament among fashion accessories. It analyzed on theoretical background of knit technique and accessory through documentary research, examined the accessory design tendency and the research tendency through collection materials, and then suggested 9 works in accessory ornament design of using hand-knitting technique, based on this. The results are as follows. First, even in overseas collection, accessories in diverse materials and shapes were being show cased. Volume in necklace or bangle was indicated to be big. There were many cases of covering several items together. Second, the hand-knitting technique in originative accessory design could be confirmed to be possibly used broadly in the range of pattern and shape available for making by using yarn in diverse thicknesses with proper technique, and by transforming basic tissue according to knitting technique. Third, through the results of making ornaments in 7 necklaces and 2 bangles, the hand-knitting technique was confirmed to possibly expanding the application range of knitting technique in the accessory field, and has significance in having suggested individual accessory.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.1
• /
• pp.23-36
• /
• 2004

The knitting, which has developed from the onset of human civilization, has a close relation to dwelling as well as to clothing itself. Its progress has taken shape in a variety of forms according to nature-friendly tools and its knit texture in the past is different from that of modern times. With this basic idea, the work aims at the further study of various knitting structure which triggered the origin of modern techniques, the establishment of those methods, and the finding of what means was utilized earlier based on these. By doing that, this study will provide the foundation in the Korean historical timeframe in knitting field and give definition to knit wear in a historical sense. As to definition, the outcome in the research boils down to two categories. broad meaning and narrow meaning. The former can be the hook-formed textile, referring to making, twisting, or binding the knots. On the other hands, the latter, that is, narrow type, can be the loop-linked fabric which can be defined as modern knitting. The knitting dates back to the ancient way of binding structure, combining structure in other words, and braiding structure and this kept dividing into subgroups like Netting. Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet as the usage of hands and tools by mankind has got improved. And it changed into knitting and crochet which means a bamboo needle-hook knitting (larger needle type) and a crochet-hook knitting (smaller needle type), respectively through middle ages and modern times and settled down to the production of fabric. In this work, Netting, Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet are classified as ancient category in which these originate the modern knitting method. Though the modern type of knitting is not found in the Joseon Dynasty, some various methods from the ancient twisting skill and binding skill where the materials with easy access to acquisition in the nature such as rattan, straw, horsehair, hemp, rush, cotton, silk and the like to Netting, Nalbinding and Sprang except Crochet were handed down and used in costume for diverse application. This work can provide the basic frame in terms of Korean history of knitting which has been excluded in the relevant researches until now. When applying the study, it would trigger the initiation of more versatile design with which the previous unique techniques along with modern techniques can be adopted in the clothing market as knit designs gain in public favor more and more.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.30 no.4
• /
• pp.1-13
• /
• 1992

A computer simulation method for textile designs was developed using a generic-purpose graphics program, LUMENA and its results were applied for costume design simulation. Its design performance was comparable with those using specialized design package programs which are in general very expensive. Three areas of textile design, print pattern design, weaving design, and knitting design, were covered. In the print pattern design simulation, a gird network library was constructed by using basic methods of repeat, and a pattern library by scanning existing print patterns. Through the modification and synthesis of library patterns, many new print patterns could be obtained. In the weaving design simulation, a thread library and a draw-down library were constructed. Using them, simulations of woven textile structures were carried out. In the knitting design simulation, a stitch library and a detail library were made from various types of knit stitch and detail drawings of knit costume, respectively. They were used to make structural knitting patterns and jacquard knitting designs. Using those simulated textile designs, costume design simulation was carried out.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.22 no.1
• /
• pp.15-32
• /
• 2020

This study aims to develop contemporary fashion designs from the unique Yao minority costumes and to explore the possibility of developing creative designs by using knitting materials. The research method is based on the cultural clothing and costumes of the Chinese ethnic minority, as well as literature concerning the Yao costumes and photo data to investigate the cultural background and characteristics apparent in Yao costumes. The overall design characteristics of Yao costumes are as follows. First, the shape of Yao costumes are divided into straight-lined short tops with pleated skirts or shorts, or cardigan tops with pants and aprons, or long shirts, pants, and a belt. Each variant of tribal clothing is different. Second, the colors used are mainly black or dark blue, and these are accented by other colors, such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and white. Third, the clothing patterns are mainly in plant, animal, natural, geometric, and human, etc. motifs. The most common patterns in daily life are the patterns using geometric shapes, plants, or animals. Using the background of the unique lifestyles of the Yao ethnic minority, this study applied hand knitting and jacquard techniques for a knit fashion design. In order to develop traditional patterns, Yao patterns were entered into an Illustrator and SDS-ONE APEX3-4 was used for simulation. Using wool fibers as the raw material; the knitting machine used a Bird's eye Jacquard technique-10GG. The results of this research and design work were as follows. First, the knitted clothing design using Yao clothing elements has significance for the development and flexible use of ethnic elements in contemporary creative design. Second, the straight cut design using hand-knitted and jacquard-knit fabrics can minimize waste materials and provide more possibilities for sustainable design development. Third, it provides additional methods for the combination of hand-knitting and jacquard knitting fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.3
• /
• pp.425-431
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study was to observe the changes of skirt length of knitted flare skirts when the seamless test garments were made which had been having full shape while being knitted and to change and amend the challenges in advance when those were knitted. For this study, I made 6 kinds of knitted test garments of wool 100% yarn with seamless knitting machine, which differed from each other by skirt angles ($90^{\circ},\;180^{\circ}$) and gauges (7G, 12G, 15G), and then I measured deflection changes of their length for 2 weeks. Findings and conclusions drawn from this study were as follows: First, the side seam line of full shape hecame somewhat longer than center. Second, 7G and $180^{\circ}$ knitted flare skirt showed the biggest length deflection changes. Third, there was no difference at rear waist deflection changes between front pattern and rear. Fourth, it was difficult to control the tensions of right and left strings as to the knitting directions.