• 복식
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• 제60권10호
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• pp.88-99
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to express visual and functional diversity through modifiable design, and to suggest a methodological model. With this view, this study was aimed to departmentalize the case of knitwear in modifiable design of clothes and propose the possibility of variable knit fashion through make the most of knit's characteristics. Four wearable physical clothes using the most of flexible knits' characteristics were made for this study based on the modifiable design on the expressive tendency and analysis of plasticity. The following results were obtained. First, as modifiable knit design can create effects of several dresses in visual aspect and functional aspect, so it has practicality and functionality. Because modifiable clothes required wearer's participation, this have amusement that give enjoyment and freshness to wearer. Second, in mode of wearing, flexibility of knit is suitable character to open & close and change of wearing position. In manipulation, a prearranged plan for line of clothes and good choice of subsidiary materials are important. Third, the characteristics of knits allow using and mixing with different pattern and materials on the two sides of the same cloths except for the some of the parts. Moreover, there is no unraveled thread on the part of knits margin against woven, so it has the broad applicable range for the changeable design. Finally, the form and function, a prearranged plan for modifiable design of clothes have all contributed in creating new structure and patterns in design.

• 한국의상디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국의상디자인학회 2004년도 International Conference & Exhibition
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• pp.121-125
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• 2004

• 복식
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• 제45권
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• pp.85-102
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the origins of knitwear the history of patterned knits. Aithough historians know little about the origins of knitting many believe it was practiced as early as the 4th century by nomads roaming North Africa. later Arab raders adopted the craft which helped then while away the hours as they traveled across deserts in camel carabans, Its origins lie in the need for close-fitting and elasticated covering for the body in particular the head hand and feet. it first developed in the Mediterranean countries and later in Central and particularly Northern Europe. Early evidence of multicolored knitting is said to date back to the Egyptian Copts of 600-800 A.D. medieval knitting is developed through the Church and monastery. The increasing demand for knitted products already observable in the fourteenth and fifteenth centries and the number of preserved knitted articles increases inexcavated materialos from Europe. The improvements in technique stimulated the developement of the hand knitting industry in the early sixteenth century. The best-known source of production is the guild organization and their mass production consisted of the carpets cushion coverings and other small items for furnishing interiors but mainly of clothing. The demand for knitted goods was such that in the late sixteenth century it was mechanised, The knitting frame invented in 1589 by William Lee English priest was the most perfect machine of this period. The mass production of fully-fashioned and seamless garments in the late nineteenth and twentieth century was dangerously competitve to traditionally woven and sewn cloth in. As fashions changed knitwear has had an almost continuous ruse in public favour and the popularity of sports has encourage the fashion for flexible easy-fitting and absorbent garments.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권12호
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• pp.1477-1485
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• 2011

Dyeability and colorfastness of the blended knits of cotton/rayon (40/60; C/R) and wool/tencel (10/90; W/T) are examined using the natural dyestuff ($Pinux^{TM}$) manufactured from Pinus radiata pine bark extract. In addition, pre-treatments (such as bleaching, mercerization and cationization) are performed to improve dyeability and colorfastness. The $Pinux^{TM}$ powder dyestuffs produced by Pinux Co., Ltd. are used as dyestuffs and their properties are examined for dyeing concentration (0.5-2% (owb)), dyeing time (30-120 minutes) and dyeing temperature (30-$90^{\circ}C$). Dyeability is evaluated with K/S value at 400nm, which is the maximum absorption wavelength for $Pinux^{TM}$. The results show the dyeability of W/T sample containing protein fiber with $Pinux^{TM}$ is superior to all cellulose fiber C/R. A concentration of dyestuff greater than 1.5% (owb), dyeing time 120 minutes and dyeing temperature of $90^{\circ}C$ are the most optimized conditions. It shows that the dyeability of C/R and W/T samples are high in the condition of an acid-dyeing bath and that dyeability highly declined in alkaline bath due to the instability of the proanthocyanidin pigment. After analyzing the effect of bleaching, mercerizing and cationizing (as pre-treatments on dyeability) it was concluded that the dyeability of the C/R sample was enhanced by mercerization but no significant effect by cationization. However, the simultaneous treatment of cationizing and dyeing resulted in far improved dyeability compared to dyeing after cationizing pre-treatment. As for the W/T sample, the effect of cationization was more prominent than the C/R sample. Colorfastness to color changes in the control W/T sample was higher than that of C/R's level 1-2, and it increased to Level 2 when bleaching pre-treatment was given and when a simultaneous cationizing treatment was adopted to the dyeing process. Colorfastness to light in W/T control sample resulted in Level 3 and further increased to an excellent Level of 4 with bleaching and simultaneous cationizing during dyeing process.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.103-111
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• 2004

The shrinkproof-finished wool fibers treated with resin coating and chlorination methods were used to find out an optimal shrinkproof finishing method keeping the quality properties of wool fabric to manufacturers. Shrinkage during repeated washing, electrostatic propensity, thermal resistance and pilling propensity of shrinkproof-finished wool knits, and analysis of finishing methods were measured. Upon the results from the surface examination of shrinkproof-finished wool fibers, the patterns of scale layer and degree of scale removal were subject to change according to the finishing processes. The shrink resistance was significantly enhanced on repeated washing of shrinkproof-finished knits, especially, chlorinated wool. Addition of strong physical force and alkali detergent applied in this washing experiment brought about superior effects with the low shrinkage rate although it was very severe washing conditions for wool fabrics. The results from the washing experiment implies that shrinkproof-finished knitted fabrics can be machine washed at individual households with other ordinary laundry. There was some changes and variation found in thermal resistance, electrostatic propensity, and pilling, however, it seems to be minor within standard limits. Therefore, shrinkproof-finished knitted fabrics did not bring serious changes to other physical properties comparing with original wool, which helps consumers handle wool knitted clothes more conveniently.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제55권5호
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• pp.555-566
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• 2017

This study analyzes the practical tasks and required competency for technical designers to provide basic data on the training of domestic technical designers. The survey was applied to 21 technical designers of big vendors as well as investigated tasks, task flow, important tasks, time-consuming tasks, and required competencies. The results of the study are as follows. First, the technical designers were in charge of several brands of buyers and distributors of fashion companies, or several lines of the same brand. The main production items were cut and sewn knits. Second, the flow of task and tasks were in the order of buyer comments analysis, sloper decision to matching style, sewing specification, productive sewing method research, size specification suggestion, pattern correction comments, construction decision to matching style & fabric, sample evaluations, fit approval, business e-mail writing, specification & grading confirmation, and communication with buyer. Third, five tasks (analysis of buyer comments analysis, communication with buyer, pattern correction comments, productive sewing methods research, sample evaluation) were important and time-consuming tasks. Fourth, reeducation was required in order of sewing, pattern, English, fabric, and fitting. Fifth, competencies to be a technical designers were fitting, pattern correction, size specification & grading, construction & sewing specification, sewing terms & techniques, and communication skills. In conclusion, technical designer training should focus on technology-based instruction, such as sample evaluation, fitting, pattern correction, and productive sewing methods research of cut and sewn knits.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.23-34
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to better understand the development and characteristics of knitwear fashion design by examining the transformation process of the modern knits. The subjects of the study are Missoni, Sonia Rykiel, and Azzedine Alaia, designers who are world-renowned knit designers, and the expressive techniques in their designs will be evaluated. The study also intends to analyze the aesthetic value of each designer's style through their product's silhouette, colors, and knitting techniques. On the basis of the analysis, we hope to research the factors in the designing process that will allow knits, which were made for practical purposes, to be valued as a luxury fashion item, and with the results, show the potential for knits in expanding its domain in fashion to become a more luxurious, creative fashion item. The characteristic comparison of the designers is as follows: First, in the case of colors, Missoni shows its distinct identity through a balance of splashy colors as well as nature-inspired color composition and balance. And, only with color use, is also able to express perspective, form composition, and rhythm. Sonia Rykiel designs are composed of black backgrounds with strong primary colors that are contrasted with one-point or stripes to express a light, urban image. Alaia emphasizes femininity by the use of black and white colors, which show modernity, in combination with neutral skin-toned colors, such as beige and gray. So, in other words, Missoni and Sonia Rykiel mixed colors for visual interconnectivity, while Alaia expressed femininity through the use of an achromatic color. Second, in the case of knitting techniques, Missoni uses the jacquard technique to make complex patterns that show balance of colors and patterns such as zigzag, stripe, geometries, and titan check, which are geometric, abstract, and symmetric. Sonia Rykiel who uses stripes as her trademark, most often utilizes the intarsia technique, which is expressed through one-point. Alaia combines diverse techniques, such as the Skashi weaving, by using computerized knitting. Third, as for silhouettes, Missoni eliminated exaggerated details in order to emphasize the flashy colors and delicate patterns and weavings of its designs, and this resulted in simplistic and relaxed silhouettes. Sonia Rykiel took advantage of the elasticity that the knit offers to get a tight silhouette, and in turn, emphasized the female sensuality. Alaia used curvilinear cuts that emphasized the womanly curves and gained an image considered soft and feminine.

• 복식
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• 제30권
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• pp.227-237
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to investigate the main characteristics of the environmentalism expressed in contemporary fashion. i.e. 'eco-look'. They can be categorized into naturalism symbolism primitiveness and concern about recycling. First naturalistic tendency can be found in through the method of some contemporary eco-looks which are using natural colors harmonisation of the colors in similarity and in controst and expressing in a realistic manner some natural entities or use some ornaments representing them. Such trends easily let people to feel the clothes unified with the nature and human beings. Secondly some contemporary eco-looks express environmentalistic ideas for examples the idea for protection of the nature or the idea against pollution of the earth and destruction of nature in a symbolistic way. Thirdly primitiveness is one of the most characteristic feature in contemporary eco-looks. It can be found in contemporary eco-looks, In can be found in some eco-looks using primitive or original images of Africa and underdeveloped countries. it reflects the human desire to go back to the nature or to the unity with the nature, Finally recycled materials are commonly used in eco-look. Patchwork and handmade knits are popular methods for this mode. They implicates the idea of pragmatism and simplicity in fashion. One Conclusion of the paper on eco-look: fashion design which can be itself an import-ant environment of human beings Secondly some contemporary eco-looks ex-press environmentalistic ideas for examples the idea for protection of the nature or the idea against pollution of the earth and destruction of nature in a symbolistic way. Thirdly primitiveness is one of the most characteristic feature in contemporary eco-looks. It can be found in some eco-looks using primitive or original images of Africa and underdeveloped countries. it reflects the human desire to go back to the nature or to the unity with the nature. Finally recycled materials are commonly used In eco-look Patchwork and handmade knits are popular methods for this mode. They implicates the idea of pragmatism and simplicity in fashion. One Conclusion of the paper on eco-look ; fashion design which can be itself an import-ant environment of human beings has become a very efficient and significant tool to express the idea of ecology.

• 복식
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• 제57권8호
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• pp.37-47
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics of the tomb of King Muryeong at the Baekje(百濟) Period. First, there were silk fabrics such as compound woven silk(錦), twill damask(綾), complex gause(羅) and plain weaved silk(平絹). All of compound woven silk(錦) are the warp-faced compound tabby(經錦) of plain weave and the density is various from high to low one. The twill damask(綾) was a variation of twill damask weaved with a six strand warp thread. The complex gause(羅) made patterns as a set of 2 strand, 4 strand, 6 strand and 8 strand warp threads are weaved alternately with the weft. There were three kinds of plain weaved silk(平絹). The first was weaved densely without space between strands. The second was weaved with a small space between strands. And the third was weaved with a two strand warp thread, having a space between the threads. On the other hand, several pieces of well preserved ramie cloth were excavated. Of the, the densest one has the density of 125 strand/inch for the warp and the weft. In addition, strings made of flax thread were found. This suggests that flax fabrics may be found additionally if the hardened lumps of fabrics are resolved and analyzed. Other materials discovered include knits, knotted strings, embroideries, threads and floss. Pieces considered knits and knotted strings occupy a large part of fabrics excavated from King Muryeong's Tomb, and in particular knotted strings show various knotting methods. In addition, embroideries such as chain stitch and button hole stitch are clearly observed. What is more, there are silk threads and hemp threads, which are presumed to have been used for dangling ornaments such as Yeongrak(瓔珞) and beads or for sewing. Besides, floss was found between fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권7호
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• pp.1064-1074
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to determine the purchasing behavior of knitted apparel consumers. Differences in knit product evaluation criteria according to consumer characteristics, such as gender, age, and interest in knit products also were reported. Male and female consumers participated in the study. Quota sampling was used and data from 463 questionnaires were analyzed. Descriptive statistics, $X^2$ analysis, factor analysis, Cronbach's alpha coefficient, t-test, one-way ANOVA, and post-hoc test were conducted. Results indicated that 65.4 percent of respondents did not discern between knits and woven products. Cardigan was the most preferred knitted product category. Most of the respondents purchased knitted apparel themselves, got product information at stores, spent less than 100,000 won for a single knitted product and went to department stores to buy knitted apparel products. Some 62.5 percent of respondents reported wearing the product less than four year. Consumers who are more interest in knitted apparel also considered such criteria as external attributes, quality, and aesthetics to be important. Respondents who discerned between knits and woven considered quality most important. Female respondents considered quality and aesthetic criteria more important; respondents in their twenties considered aesthetic criteria most important; and respondents in their thirties through fifties considered external criteria most important. Results of this study provide a basis for understanding knitted apparel consumers' purchasing behavior.