• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.17-31
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• 2003

$Premi\grave{e}re$ Vision is a leading textile collection held since 1973. In this study, textiles for 2004/05 F/W season in $Premi\grave{e}re$ Vision were analyzed at the various point of view, such as general trend, sub-theme, fiber content, color trend, structure, yarn trend, pattern, texture, decoration, finishing and other technical treatment, and functionality. There were three general trends; natural/ecology, geometry, and combination. Natural color and texture were widely used over the fabric exhibited, and irregularities expressed the natural trend of textiles. Geometric patterns were used for knit as well as for woven. Geometry expressed by various methods such as weaving, knitting, printing, shearing, embossing, and etc. However, geometry shown in this season was not a clear form expressed by weaving, but a blurry, irregular form expressed by various other methods such as knitting. The combination among heterogeneous fibers, yarns, colors, images, and textures was usual, however, the harmony among them was accomplished.

• Journal of Information Technology Applications and Management
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.185-196
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• 2018

This study investigates the social network among authors to improve the quality of Panel researches. Korea Health Panel (KHP), implemented by the collaborative work between KIHASA (Korea Institute for Health and Social Affairs) and NHIC (National Health Insurance Service) since 2008, provides a critical infrastructure for policy making and management for insurance system and healthcare service. Using bibliographic data extracted from academic databases, eighty articles were extracted in domestic and international journals from 2008 to 2014, April. Data were analyzed by NetMiner 4.0, social network analysis software, to identify the extent to which authors are involved in healthcare use research and the patterns of collaboration between them. Analysis reveals that most authors publish a very small number of articles and collaborate within tightly knit circles. Centrality measures confirm these findings by revealing that only a small percentage of the authors are structurally dominant, and influence the flow of communication among others. It leads to the discovery of dependencies between the elements of the co-author network such as affiliates in health panel communities. Based on these findings, we recommend that Korea Health Panel could benefit from cultivating a wider base of influential authors and promoting broader collaborations.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.117-126
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• 2017

In this study, moisture transport characteristics for the woven and knitted fabrics made of 8 kinds of fiber materials using MMT (moisture management tester) were measured and discussed with the Bireck bt MMT and water evaporating rate (WER) measuring methods, which are vertical moisture transport methods. In addition, the drying property by MMT of the eight kinds of specimens was compared and discussed with the results measured by the vertical drying measurement. MMT experimental result which is horizental moisture transport appeared to be similar to the result of the Bireck method, which is the vertical moisture transport experiment. Absortion time measured from drip method of the fabrics made of the bamboo, linen, and cotton/nylon composite fabrics was short and thus they showed best wicking property, which was attributed to the low contact angle on the fabric surface and high porosity of the fabrics due to the staple yarn structure composed of the hydrophilic staple fibers. In drying property of the fabric specimens by MMT, maximum absorption radius of the dry-zone knit and bamboo woven fabrics were the highest and they showed the best drying property, which was a little different result compared with vertical drying measurement method. Half time of the drying rate in the MMT method was highly correlated with the fabric thickness and saturated moisture absortion rate and their regression coefficients were 0.9 and 0.88, respectively. This means that the knitted and woven fabric design technology for retaining good wicking and drying properties of the fabrics with thin fabric thickness is very important for obtaining high functional wear comfort fabrics. In addition, wicking and drying properties of the fabrics made of different fiber materials and with different yarns and fabric structures showed different results according to the measuring methods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.126-141
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• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing farm, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal body shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Representation of physicality refers to structural designs and elastic fabrication. Structural designs appeared in tailoring and bias-cut draping, as well as in stretchy clothes such as Lycra body suit and knit garments that highlights the body structure and movements of the body joints. In representing physicality in fashion, clothing forms reflect body silhouette and each body parts. Therefore, the shape of clothes (signifiant) corresponds to the anatomy and movement of the body ($signifi\'{e}$) in pursuit of aptness. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.91-106
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to offer some directions for the design of men's knitwear and provide basic data helpful for design conception and product development for creative and unique men's knitwear. As for the methodology, the investigator examined the works of these following ten designers that consistently participated in the men's Milano Collection for the last ten years from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W: Burberry Prorsum, Costume National, D & G, D squared, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Iceberg, Prada, and Vivien Westwood. We identified the design elements expressed in knitwear, categorized examples for each element, and reviewed their characteristics. The results of this study are as follows. The designers usually adopted the H-silhouette with some room until 2006, after which the slim tubular silhouette became prevalent. Most of the designers made knitwear with normal yarn and expressed them by dyeing or printing regardless of seasons, which meant the usage level of fancy yarn was low. The much usage of the basic pattern was particularly salient. The most popular basic structure was plain, which was followed by rib and color pattern, which included the jacquard and intarsia pattern. The designers presented thick outer items made of thick yarn for F/W seasons and many thin inner items made of thin yarn for S/S seasons. The popular colors were brown from the Red Group(R) and beige from the Orange Group (YR) regardless of seasons. When achromatic colors were used a lot, there was a development of various grey shades. For the most used basic structure, plain, the designers employed such technical methods as printing, pleat treatment, and dyeing in high frequency.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.175-183
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• 2015

Weight loss treatment of a fiber leads an improvement of its handle and drape properties. Hydrolysis of a fiber is commonly known as a method to reduce its weight of 5-40%. Most of the studies on the weight loss treatment are mainly based on polyester fibers and there has been almost no study on the weight reduction of nylon fibers. In this study, however, in order to develop a use of nylon 6 fiber for the industrial applications such as toothbrush, underwear, carpet and more, weight loss treatment of a nylon 6 fiber was carried out. Under various treatment conditions, morphological analysis were done to observe the change in the structure of the surface and analysis. From the observation of formic acid treated nylon 6 fiber, there were many etched and deformed morphologies. Thermal and crystalline properties were analyzed to find the changes in the crystal structure caused by the weight loss treatment. There were little differences in the crystalline properties of nylon 6 fiber by formic acid treatment. Tensile strength of nylon 6 fiber decreases with acid concentration. The FITR peak intensity of the amide bond decreases with formic acid concentration.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.670-686
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to delineate and analyze the expression of the kidult and its characteristics and thereby provide data to be used for fashion design in various manners as well as to suggest creative and varied possibilities of fashion design. As a way to study, the author of this paper organized the general terms, concepts and definitions concerning the kidult in the previous papers and journals. The data was collected from the collections represent the characteristics of kidult especially from 2006 to 2015. The results are as follows: Firstly, The characters stimulating the innocence of children were used the most for infantile expression. Parody used characters in the movie or famous logos. Deformation was used to create designs by way of distortion and deformation. Exaggeration thereby showing visually strong impression and inducing surprise and unexpectedness. Depaysement was useful to let us describe concepts and enhance our infinite creativity and interests about objects using surrealistic. Secondly, Infantile characteristics used the images of toys with infantile imagination and sense of humor. Fantasy introduced objects or expressed a dream-like feeling. Unexpectedness used two-faced ideas or conflicting ideas to express conflicts, collision and an interchange with heterogeneous things, avoiding the limit of size and the simplicity of materials. Parody used jocular expressions, satire and ironic expressions to express the original image in a fun manner. Exaggeration transformed changed the structure to restructure objects in a subjective and creative manner, thereby expressing creative patterns using various subject matters by way of special modeling or distortion and transformation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.109-120
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• 2017

In the textile industry located in Gyeonggi-do, 85% of small-sized firms have less than 10 employees; in addition, the most of them are characterized by a vendor relying specialization system that conducts foundry from the vendor that managed marketing, textile design development, and quality checks according to unit stream. The breakaway of these vendors accelerated over the last 7 years; however, industry survival is at stake because the specialization system and orders have collapsed. The following four main policies must be implemented to overcome industry hardship. Policies have been derived from survey and analysis (present condition and trends) from industrial statistics and related policies in advanced and developing countries. First, a policy to promote cooperation between small-sized foundry unit-streams. Second, unification of the marketing support function with a textile design and development support system. Third, the introduction of policy support-management system customized according to developmental stages (tall process${\rightarrow}$fabric production${\rightarrow}$sales${\rightarrow}$clothing production sales). Fourth, foundation of a control tower that puts these tasks in a vehicle and runs them and the division of roles with the central government. We must propel main tasks to manifest the developmental potential (develop eco-friend dyeing and processing technologies, change to the young next CEO in business environment, and grow the of knit market) of the Gyeonggi Textile Industry in a short period to present a condition where these four main policies are running.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.5 s.114
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• pp.58-71
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• 2007

This study conducted a survey to find out atopic dermatitis patients' required performance and preference in design factors to develop spring/summer(S/S) knitwears preferred by atopic patients. On the platform of achieved information from statistical analysis, S/S knitwear samples for atopic patients were designed and constructed with cotton/Seacell(R) blended yarn, And subjective wearing sensation were evaluated comparing the samples and the commercial products made with cotton/chitosan blended yarn, trying to help producing more comfortable S/S knitwears for atopic patients. SPSS 12.0 program was used for frequency analysis, Chi-square analysis, ANOVA, and Duncan test. The result was as follows; For comfort of S/S knitwears, atopic patients most considered skin care property. Atopic patients preferred simple and basic knitwear in light color with thin and soft fabric such as plain knit. The preferred style was that 'appropriately fit with suitable ease'. They also preferred 'closed front'; 'boat neckline' and 'V neckline'; 'raglan sleeve' and 'set-in sleeve'. For hem trim, they preferred 'rib' structure. Male preferred simple and plain style with 'round collar' and 'tubular or rib trim", while female preferred sophisticated and characteristic style with 'set-in sleeve' with 'rib trim'. Under the circumstances with insufficient functional knitwears developed, this study tried to develop comfort S/S knitwears for atopic dermatitis patients and the developed knitwears showed as good as or better performance in wearing feeling, fitting, and appearance than the previously developed functional goods.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.197-206
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to dye hanji/cotton fabrics using persimmon juice and to investigate the change in the hand fabrics. Using the Kawabata Evaluation System, we have examined the changes in the physical properties, primary hand value and total hand value. The dynamic characteristics of hanji/cotton fabrics have been explored by tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. As a result, it can be seen that the linearity of load-extension and tensile resilience are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice and tensile energy is decreased in the same condition. These behaviors are shown in the compression properties. Although the mechanism of persimmon juice dyeing has been widely discussed, it means that the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffened and the elasticity is increased with the introduction of persimmon on the fabrics studied. Bending rigidity and hysteresis of the bending moment are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice. Also, Geometrical roughness, expressed in SMD is increased with increasing the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice, compared with as-received. It indicates that these results are due to the geometric structure of hanji yarn and the introduction of persimmon juice on the fabrics studied. The fullness and softness with the soft feeing are increased a little due to the tannin component of persimmon juice introduced on the fiber surface.