• 복식
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• 제64권8호
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• pp.67-82
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• 2014

This research aims to explicate how we reveal our identity and emphasize beauty in our passion for beauty. It also attempts to find out our sense of beauty in exaggeration of visual expressions. The purpose is to represent how the contemporary knit fashion is various and exaggerated in our modern fashion world, and also to give the direction of new knitwear designs through the visual analysis of exaggerated knit fashion. Literature research was done by studying reference books and magazines, leading papers and based on a dissertation thesis. This study collected 787 designer's works published in the world's big Four collections from the 2000 S/S to 2011 S/S, in 23 seasons during 12 years. In answer to 9 experts about the criteria of classification, 520 works were chosen and analyzed according to the standard of exaggerated knitwear. The result of the study is the followings: The type of exaggeration shown in contemporary knit fashion was classified in three categories; Enlarge exaggeration, reduce exaggeration and transform exaggeration. As a sub-category, enlarge exaggeration was classified into three categories; Volume expansion and the expansion by the material, gauge and larger composition application expansion. Reduce exaggeration appeared as mini-reduction, skinny-reduction and transform exaggeration was respectively classified into deformation of the shape and patterns. The characteristics of exaggeration shown in contemporary knit fashion appeared as the new formative sense. In terms of fuller sense and surface, using various materials, gauge, changes in the composition represented challenges for textiles. The exaggerated contemporary knitwear expressed sex appeal using tight-fitting effect. Contemporary knit fashion simplified the design by taking advantage of the strong elastic attributes. It showed the beauty of women, expressed variability and limitless knit characteristics beyond the conventional thinking. In addition, it has been well represented as a form of freedom, amusement and diversity.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.148-165
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to establish a theory about the necessary structure for knitwear design, and to propose it with the practical data through the actual development of a high value added knit structure. For this study, the market was conducted along with literature reviews on the existing studies and the relevant books about knit structures. The market research aimed at the products released in the spring/summer and fall/winter seasons of 2012-2013, focusing on brand for middle aged women. The utilization of the structure by item and the characteristics of knit design were studied. The research was conducted on S/S products in May and July, and F/W products in October and December. As a result of the market research, it was shown that the lightweight structures with permeability such as plain, lace, links and links, this is repeated and rib structure were frequently utilized during the S/S season, while double structures with good shape stability were greatly utilized during the F/W season. Also, during the F/W season, a cable structure and tubular jacquard that emphasized the volume or cubic effect were frequently used, and there were many jacquard structures where a change of color sense and motive were added. Concerning the knit structures development, the researcher designed the knit structure at the actual production site of the knit fashion. A total of 5 pieces of knit structures were developed by asking a professional for programming and knitting. To the developed structures, the study added a multi-gauged effect, herringbone transformation effect, 3-dimensional surface effect, color effects, geometric patterns, lace penetration effect, and soft surface effect in a water-drop shape. In addition, the structures had differences in the added values by mixing various structures and diversely expressing color sense on the knitting line. This study proposes the direction for 21st century knitwear product design, through the development of a high value added knit structure.

• 복식
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• 제59권6호
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• pp.106-117
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to present a new vision for high value-added knit wear design by designing and producing knitted one-piece dress by digital textile printing which based on digital making a new industry, culture, and lifestyle in a new millenium. According as casual fashion is more and more popular, preferring knit wear, a key item of casual fashion, continues to increases. Therefore it is important to study knit wear design practically, try a new technique, and represent creative designs. As a method of the study, visual and textural data were investigated for theory of knit and DTP and a variety of knit design samples were illustrated Especially, to perform a study based on the industry, this researcher worked and experienced at J fashion Ltd., knit wear promotion company. Firstly, the theory of DTP was investigated and then 3 knitted one-pieces were designed and produced. The concept of design was digital geometry which represented chic and modern image in digital age. Target was city adult group from the late teens to the late twenties and keeping open mind and active lifestyle and enjoying the activity and unique characteristics of knit wear. This study has developed knitted one-piece design by DTP technique which has been generally applied to woven fabric. This is of great significant in opening a new way of high value-added knit wear design.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.756-761
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• 2008

In this paper, silver slit yarns combined with cotton yarns were used to produce weft knits. The purpose of this study was to investigate the physical properties as well as the functional properties of weft knit with silver slit yarns. The six different weft knit fabrics were made from silver slit yarns varying knit structure and fabric density. One cotton weft knit was also knitted to compare the properties. Weft knits made from silver slit yarns were characterized by excellent antibacterial properties, electric magnetic shielding properties, UV-cut properties, anti-static properties, and air permeability. Although there were significant differences in the physical properties of different knit structure and the fabric density, weft knits with silver slit yarns were seen to have better end use properties and ideal for apparel than the cotton weft knits.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.43-53
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to show inherent and differentiated beauty by designing costume knitwear using Dancho patterns representing peculiar beauty, thus expressing free and convenient knitwear in the modern sense for women with the image of reasonableness and elegance, proposing knit design using high-class materials for satisfying the demand for the highest. With regard to expression technique of works, I selected computer Jacquard method to indicate effective comparison effect of expression material and made expression with $12{\sim}14$ gauge as base by using computer knitting machine. Through above-mentioned research process and design using Knit CAD system, I obtained following conclusion. First, it is possible to express variously and widely traditional patterns by making the most of the beauty of the orient and by recomposing the patterns of plant patterns representing "feminine image". Second, it is possible to widely represent the sense you can feel from knit by expressing variously diversity of knit structure and Jacquard knitting structure and gauge. Finally, it is possible to express designs more freely and imaginably by using computer Knit CAD system instead of actual knitting of various knit expression technique and materials application.

• 복식
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• 제61권4호
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• pp.38-51
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to offer data that designers can utilize substantially, by developing creative materials in knit fashion through the analysis relevant to expression characteristics on the mixture in high low class culture, which were shown in knit fashion of contemporary women, as one of methods of pursuing a plan for being able to be appeared creative and unique knit wear. As for a method of this research, studied concept and characteristics on the mixture in high low class culture by preceding researches. And women's knit fashion was selected that is seen to be 3~18 gauge among the world's 4 collections from 2000~2008. The analysis was made with the analytical frame in mixture pattern, and the analytical frame in design element, and item. The results are as follows. The mixture of kidult element and high fashion was shown with characteristic of expressing humor and fun with graffiti, expression like character and cartoon, and fairy-tale fantasy through the exaggerated trifling article. The mixture of grungy element and high fashion was shown with the expression characteristic in the mixture of heterogenous pattern, and in tear, slit without the end treatment due to fraying the end strand in the knit fashion with basic stitch, patch work, fringing and tone-down gray, use of khaki and blue color, and match in opposite color. The mixture of underwear and high fashion was shown the expression characteristic with the emphasis on underwear line like volume up, or with the mixture of details such as pants in diverse lengths, mini skirt, underwear lace, and ribbon.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.93-100
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• 2018

This study comparatively analyzed the changes in the dimensional stability and the mechanical properties of stretch knit fabrics associated with washings conditions in order to determine the most appropriate washing method. Polyester and spandex knit fabrics were washed 25 cycles with nine washing condition profiles that controled detergent, hardness. temperature and RPM. The knit fabrics with repeated washings were evaluated by dimensional stability and measured by the KES-FB system. Polyester and spandex fibers have good chemical resistance. However, the changes in the dimensional stability and the mechanical properties were observed in washed knit fabrics. After repeated washings, the knit fabrics washed in an alkali or neutral detergent had good dimensional stability compared with the knit fabric washed in functional detergent. The washed knit fabrics were extended, stiff, rough, and had a smaller volume. The changes were the result of the rearrange of polyester fibers which twisted around spandex core and chemical interactions involving the detergent and the physical and mechanical forces of washing. Especially, using an alkali detergent resulted in increased stiffness and roughness of the knit fabric. In conclusion, the washing in water with low hardness and a neutral detergent can minimize the changes in dimensional stability and mechanical properties of polyester and spandex knit fabric.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.133-145
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• 2023

Competition is intensifying as the golfwear market grows and expands rapidly due to the influx of MZ generation golfers, so it is necessary to plan knit golfwear products suitable to consumer needs The purpose of this study is to contribute to product planning by analyzing knit design factors according to the brand image of golfwear. First, the top five sales brands surveyed by Apparel News were selected. The selected brands were G-Fore, PXG, Malbon Golf, Titleist, and Mark & Lona. Knit products sold by the selected golfwear brands were investigated based on design factors, such as image, item, stich, yarn, color, and pattern to analyze knit design factors according to brand image. G-Fore's modern classical image was influenced by pullovers, vest items, 100% wool, color contrast, intasha stich, and monotone colors. PXG's sporty modern image was due to a mixture of rayon and polyester in jumper items, while Malbon Golf's American casual image applied character patterns and intasha knitwear. Line points, plain knitwear, and monotone colors were analyzed as design factors for Titleist's modern minimal image, while Mark & Lona's classic casual was analyzed as knit design factors, such as check patterns and jacquard knitwear. Differences in knit design factors according to brand image can be identified.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.91-106
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• 2023

This study examines how the concept of gender fluidity-viewing gender identity as a fluid and wide spectrum-is represented in modern knit fashion collections. The period spring/summer 2017-fall/winter 2021, when gender-related fashion keywords started attracting attention, was limited to the last five years, and the results of a case analysis focused on a total of 357 knit fashion photos are as follows. First, the androgynous compromise through the mixing of heterogeneous elements appears as a mix-and-match style due to the patchwork of heterogeneous materials and forms that borrow or share masculinity and femininity. Second, it was confirmed that the dismantling exaggeration caused by the destruction of the size and form of clothes was an avant-garde image that exaggerated the size or length of clothes or destroyed ideas and forms. Third, the exposed sensuality caused by the deformation of the fluid knitting technique was shown in the form of proudly expressing sexuality by exposing the body either using the cut-out technique or through the loose texture of the knit. Knit fashion can highlight decorative effects using handcrafted techniques and express a detailed or coarse sense of organization depending on the density. In addition, since it is possible to create a complex image by juxtaposing and mixing various knit structures, it was confirmed that it is a suitable material for expressing gender fluidity flowing between men and women in fashion.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.364-376
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• 2002

The Main objective of this study was to investigate the relationship between shopping orientations and Knit wear Buying Behavior of college female students. A questionnaire was developed to measure knit wear purchasing motives, fashion information sources of knit wear, evaluation criteria of knit wear product, and general clothing buying behavior. The questionnaire was administered to 505 college female students in Chonbuk and Chonnam. The data was analyzed using percentage, frequency, mean, factor analysis, Cluster Analysis and ANOVA, Duncan Multiple Range test. The results of the study were as follows: 1. The college female students were classified into fifth subdivisions by the cluster analysis; convenient shopping group, recreational shopping group, self-confident shopping group, those of Fashion-pursuit group, economic shopping group. 2. The knit wear purchasing motives of consumers were significantly different according to shopping orientation subdivision in social, personal, rational. 3. In the case of fashion information sources of knit wear, significant differences were found according to shopping orientation subdivision in mass media information, information by marketer, mail order advertisements, information by consumer. 4. The evaluation criteria of knit wear product of consumers were significantly different depending on shopping orientation subdivision in esthetic, practicality, individual expression, external criterion. 5. In the case of dissatisfactory factors for wearing knit wear product, significant differences were found according to shopping orientation subdivision. 6. In the case of asking factors to the manufactures of knit wear product, significant differences were found according to shopping orientation subdivision.