• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.779-798
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to propose the direction of veganism-based fashion design in environmental and animal protection through the theoretical consideration of vegan fashion and the analysis of the practical design characteristics of veganism in Stella McCartney's fashion. The research was conducted through literature research and case studies. After investigating the concept and characteristics of vegan fashion, focusing on previous studies and various fashion-related Internet data, Stella McCartney's fashion was examined with particular attention on vegan characteristics. The results of the study are as follows: First, imitative nature pursues animal and environmental protection, but the motif or appearance is a characteristic of pursuing a multi-purpose design that imitates animals and nature. Second, expression of value is based on slow fashion, simplicity, and sustainable minimal design. It is expressed indirectly by pursuing permanence, simplicity, and long-wearable design, or directly expressing vegan values through phrases expressed in performances or costumes in the collection. Third, alternative eco-friendliness is characterized by using cruelties-free materials such as faux fur, recycling materials, new bio-materials, and regenerated materials. These vegan characteristics are comprehensively and organically expressed in the works of the collection, and through this, sustainable and eco-friendly vegan fashion is pursued. It is anticipated that by deriving the vegan fashion characteristics of Stella McCartney, who represents vegan fashion, it will be possible to provide the basis for practical direction and design methods for fashion brands aiming for vegan fashion styles.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.12 no.10
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• pp.19-25
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• 2021

This study contains the results obtained after two and a half years of developing a knitting customization website using a knitting machine. Recently in the fashion world, various services using customization are being provided, and devices that users can design directly using knitting machines are being developed. However the existing website for knitting machine does not provide a certain usability or layout, so it is difficult for users to use open source and custom design. Therefore, this study was conducted for the purpose of developing a website that provides ease of use to users who will use the knitting customizing service using a knitting machine. As a research method, the first usability evaluation was conducted by synthesizing the studies conducted for the knit customization website development work. As a result of the study, found the problems of the initial custom screen and the initial output screen were found, and convenience, intuition, and readability were improved. Secondary usability evaluation was conducted on the modified website and it was confirmed that the problem was corrected. Through the website finally derived from this study, it is expected that the new platform in the domestic knit market will be popularized and the usability of the custom website will be improved.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.89-101
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to investigate the fashion item of the symbolic fashion icons in the 20th century. The symbolism of fashion icons was grouped into four classes according to the influence of a social-cultural change. 1. Icons between dream and reality: A dreary emotion that was caused by material richness has a longing for an ideal image. A typical style was Art Nouveau style, which pressed into a grotesque S-bend. While as the world placed on a economic reconstruction after World War I, rational fashion icon which pursued more function and simplify than cumbersome style and complexity came out. 2. Icons between solid and liquid: A solid icons was connected with a mode of female body during World War 1. This extremely stylized female figure. Flowing fabrics enveloped the stylized female figure and they brought a liquid icons into relief. 3. Icons between uniformity and variety: At a time when uniformity was appeared strongly within 20th century is during World War II and about 1940-1950. The uniformal icon was classified into uniformity by uniform and by mass production. A repugnance for the uniformity and imitation of fashion was tried a new fashion style. It could be called with the various of fashion icon. 4. Icons between social secession and rediscovery: In 1950-1960, 1970-1990, and the end of 20th century, the advent of the young culture was born a consumer who newly breaks in fashion. It could be included within the domain of social secession icon. While the rediscovery of fashion icon was associated with experimental new fibers, leotard, suitable replacement for wool or acrylic knit, silk that could stretch in any direction, new fabrics that were transparent, took color beautifully, and could be painted, tie-dyed, or embroidered.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.432-442
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• 2012

This study investigated the practical use of educational subjects and contents of materials in the fashion industry field and analyzed all data from respondents depending on business area and years of work in order to develop appropriate educational methods and courses. The survey was conducted with 151 questionnaires; 148 responses were used in the data analysis. The statistical analysis methods were frequency analysis, factor analysis, and ANOVA. The factors of educational subjects for Clothing and Textiles were classified into three categories of product planning, manufacturing and basic information, and manufacturing-related subjects (including materials); subsequently, these showed a high practical use in the fashion business. There were significant differences in the practical use of educational subjects that depended on business areas and years of work for respondents. In the case of education of materials, the contents of fibers, knit fabrics and textile planning were used the most in various business areas; in addition, there were also significant differences in the practical use of knits, textile care, textile planning and trade, and textile retailing depending on business area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.6
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• pp.129-145
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• 2001

Socks and stockings played a role as the first clothing covering foots and legs in ancient times. During the Middle Age they have represented clothing for legs and have been transformed into plasticity and aesthetic outlets for human beings aesthetic desire. Recently in around 1980 various experiments have been tried on them as part of total fashion changing as fashion trends changes. In 1990s the industry of socks and stocking in Korea has grown up as niche market, increasing the export amount twice as much as before. Therefore, this paper reveals the plasticity through historical study of socks and stockings. The purpose of this research is to analyse the plasticity by image classification of socks and stockings in 1990s on the basis of historical studies, which will be the basic data for developing high value added products. The major plasticity features of socks and stockings are material, technic, formativeness, ornament, color in a word. In 1990s the images of socks and stockings are classified into romantic, sporty, ethnic, ecology, avant- garde image. In 20th century knit and nylon became common and the part of the total fashion, completing the whole fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.601-611
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• 2003

The main objective of this study was to investigate the relationship between benefits segmentation and knitwear purchasing behavior of college female students. A questionnaire was developed to measure benefits segmentation, knit wear purchasing behavior. The questionnaire was administered to 505 college female students in Chonbuk and Chonnam. The data was analyzed using percentage, frequency, mean, factor analysis, cluster analysis and ANOVA, Duncan multiple range test. The results of the study were as follows: The college female students were classified into four subdivisions by the cluster analysis: recreation pursuit group, fashion pursuit group, individuality pursuit group, self-improvement pursuit group on the basis of pursuit benefit factors. The knitwear purchasing motives of consumers were significantly different according to pursuit benefit subdivision. The individuality pursuit group was the highest user of mass media fashion information sources. The fashion pursuit group used purchasing experience and advice of others less than other groups. Consumers' evaluation criteria of knitwear products were significantly different depending on pursuit benefit subdivision in design and coordination, goods traits, practicality, individual expression, and external criterion. The other groups used purchasing experience and advice of others more than the fashion pursuit group.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.79-90
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• 2000

On the beginning of 21C, in which it is a facing problem that the expansive image of future in fashion should be proposed from the comprehensive analysis for the fashion trend. Therefore, in this study, the trends of capricious fashion are distinctly quantified by investigating the cue of fashion in each styles. Also, the systematic evaluation is carried out of analyzing photographs to which the four important fashion styles. In particular, this study takes the practical and numerical results through quantitative analysis by statistical treatment as well as through qualitative analysis that has been formerly used in the other studies. The purposes of this study are to examine fashion trends expressed in important styles in the 1990s, and to formulate productive fashion of the future. In the qualitative analysis, the four important fashions of neo-mods/jazz, neo-hippie/grunge, sportive-casual and techos/cyber-punk are grouped. In the quantitative analysis, statistical data are sampled from Collection II of the 1990s A/W. It takes frequency, percentage, $x^2$-test and etc, by using the comprehensive tools for statistical treatment. There were significant differences between the A/W fashion. According to the cues, there are also significant differences between the fashion in the 1990s. The results of this study are summarized as follows: (1) In 'Neo-Mos/Jazz' style shows highly androgynous look, deep and strong tone, green/blue colors, natural fabric, stripe pattern, long hair style, and hided make-up. (2) 'Neo-hippie/gnenge' style shows highly folklore look, vivid tone purple colors, seethrough/knit fabric, natural /traditional pattern, decorative hair special make-up. (3) 'Sportive casuals' style shows highly sportive look, greish tone, white/grey colours, natural fabric, solid patten, bobbed hair, and natural make-up. (4) 'Techno/cyber punk style shows highly comocorps look, pale tone black colors avangard fabric, solid patten, punk/dyed hair special make-up.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.126-141
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• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing farm, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal body shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Representation of physicality refers to structural designs and elastic fabrication. Structural designs appeared in tailoring and bias-cut draping, as well as in stretchy clothes such as Lycra body suit and knit garments that highlights the body structure and movements of the body joints. In representing physicality in fashion, clothing forms reflect body silhouette and each body parts. Therefore, the shape of clothes (signifiant) corresponds to the anatomy and movement of the body ($signifi\'{e}$) in pursuit of aptness. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.732-751
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• 2022

In this study, we aimed to apply 3D digital printing to basic clothing production and to propose futuristic fashion design and production methods that correspond to contemporary trends. Literature on future trends, dynamism, mechanical aesthetics, and experimentalism were used to define the characteristics of "futurism." Based on theoretical considerations about futurism, we created fashion designs using 3D digital printing methods. These designs were produced using the aesthetic characteristics of futurism; the 3D digital clothing program; and application of digital printing technologies to futuristic silhouettes, colors, and materials. The results were as follows: First, with the application of futurism as a fashion motif, we pursued collaboration between artistic work and fashion, and we then explored the possibility of creative expression. Second, harmony between achromatic and chromatic colors revealed even better dynamism and activeness, and the potential to express dynamism was observed. Third, with the development of fashion design processes based on 3D digital printing methodologies, it was found to be possible to eliminate the limitations of time and space, solve problems related to limited budget or communication, and positively influence the fashion industry by enhancing convenience and diversity. Fourth, with the development of fashion design that utilizes digital printing, it was found that problems related to time, space, or limited budget were able to be solved, as compared to the use of traditional printing and image reproduction.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.32-42
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• 2005

This paper aims to propose fashion designs based on the application of art flower technique to translucent clothing material. For study method, firstly I looked into art flower applications occurred in modern trend since 2000 as well as theoretical research on art flower and transparency expressed as artificial beauty. Second, I attempt to express transparency in a variety of unique ways by using the art flower technique in producing clothes. Third, I utilized transparent flower with translucent clothing material and tried to suggest fashion design attempting mixture of new materials. As a result, firstly transparent image and material are well fitted in with modern trend and especially it was very suitable for expressing feminine beauty. Second, transparency was the element to suggest creative formative world in fashion design in regard to flower's beauty, various shapes and colors and to provide infinite materials as design motive. Third, the combination of knit clothing and plastic art flower displayed a new form of material combination. Especially as translucent material is fitted with trend such as function, lightness and variableness in modern times of the $21^{st}$ century, it presents beautiful combination with transparent flower. Fourth, Silk flower technique is variously used in art flower techniques. Various possibility ranges are presented such as flower was recreated with artificial image by silk flower technique to be newly expressed and various materials like aesthete film can be also expressed with silk flower technique.