• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.37-48
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• 2019

WKSF (Warp-knitted spacer fabrics) knitted using a double Raschel machine is the three-dimensional knit that has vertically connected separate layers in loop structures. Because of its unique structure, the fabric is light, compressible and breathable. Owing to the high production speed, the use of the fabric is increasing in various areas. The purpose of this study is to establish the design process in the utilization of WKSF program and analyze the difference between WKSF and Neoprene as garment materials.. The study on the design related to WKSF has rarely been carried out because of the complexity of WKSF structure and the difficulties encountered in analyzing the structure and thread. Therefore, checking beforehand the simulation results similar to a final knit using the CAD program for WKSF can only enhance the efficiency of the design for the light knits. The conclusion drawn after designing the light knits using the CAD program and analyzing the pros and cons of WKSF through the various property evaluation techniques is as follows. The tension characteristic analysis results indicated that Neoprene specimen has the elastic transformation and resilience, thus behaving like an elastic product such as rubber. By contrast, in the event that clothing and fashion accessories are designed with WKSF, these products are kept in a boxy style fit so that the fabric can be applied flexibly to a curvy body line. In addition, WKSF is good in forming noticeably around a curvy body, because its resistance shear deformation is lower than that of Neoprene.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.800-807
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to compare the subjective texture of actual objects and their picture images on the Internet to find out a method to present visual images in order to supply information similar real objects. For this study, seven knit fabrics and four presentation methods of visual images including twice magnifications and two dimensions of 2D and 3D. The results of this study were as follows: There are significant differences among subjective textures evaluated by touching seven fabrics actually and we can verify the effects of fiber contents and loop length of knit on textures. We can find out differences of texture depending on presentation methods. In case of 2D evaluation of knits fabrics, visual images of real size present a little exact information on roughness and heaviness whereas those of twice magnification do roughness, wetness, softness and luster. And 3D images give us more exact information of textures on softness, heaviness and warmness, but rather twice enlarged 3D image can't supply an information of heaviness texture.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.114-123
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• 2014

This research investigated the physical properties of PET coolness filaments and their knitted fabrics including dyeing characteristics of these knitted fabrics according to the different dyeing time and temperature. The coolness filament(S) with non-circular cross-section and hydrophilic property was spun and another commercialized coolness(A) and regular(R) PET filaments were prepared for comparing coolness and another physical properties. Qmax of coolness knitted fabric made with S filament was higher than that of R-PET filament, and the maximum value of Qmax of S knitted fabric was shown at the dyeing conditions of temperature, $110^{\circ}C$ with 30 min. or 40min. It was shown that hand of S knitted fabric was a little harsh comparing to A and regular knit specimens, but shape retention and wearing performance of garment made with S knit specimen were estimated as good owing to high bending and shear rigidity. K/S of S knitted fabric was higher than those of regular PET and A knit specimens. Dyeing fastness of coolness knitted fabric showed between 4th and 5th grade.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.203-212
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of the structural properties of plain knit fabrics on the subjective perception of textures, sensibilities, and preference among consumers. This study, then, aimed to provide useful information with respect to planning and designing knitted fabrics by predicting the subjective characteristics analyzed according to their structural properties. For this purpose, we employed statistical analysis tools, such as factor and regression analysis and an adaptive-network-based fuzzy inference system(ANFIS), thereby combining the merits of fuzzy and neural networks and presupposing a non-linear relationship. Through factor analysis, we also categorized the subjective textures into 'roughness', 'softness', 'bulkiness' and 'stretch-ability' with R2=70.32%: and categorized the sensibilities into 'Stable/Neat', 'Natural/Comfortable' and 'Feminine/Elegant' with R2=68.12%. We analyzed subjective textures, sensibilities, and preference with ANFIS, assuming non-linear relationships; consequently, we were able to generate three or four fuzzy rules using wool/rayon fiber content and loop length as input data. The textures of roughness and softness exhibited a linear relationship, but other subjective characteristics demonstrated a non-linear input-output relationship. Compared with linear regression analysis, the ANFIS exhibited had higher predictive power with respect to predicting subjective characteristics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.46-55
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• 2021

Seam puckering and the seam strength of conductive threads used to produce smart clothing were analyzed according to stitching methods and fabrics. Samples were prepared in a lock stitch and zigzag stitch on plain woven and jersey knit fabric, using one type of polyester sewing thread and three types of commercial conductive threads that consisted of two types of stainless-steel conductive threads (TST and MST) and one type of silver conductive thread (SSV). Seam pucker percentages, shapes, and seam strength were measured. On plain woven fabric as well as jersey knit fabric, three-ply TST and MST showed a higher SP percentage compared to a polyester sewing thread. Meanwhile, single-ply SSV showed the lowest SP percentage. In addition, the SP percentage of the zigzag stitch decreased along the weft and course directions of the fabric, and decreased significantly as the number of fabric layers increased. Moreover, there was a marked tendency for a higher SP percentage in jersey knit fabric compared to plain woven fabric, and the two-dimensional cross-section waveforms of stitches obtained using three-dimensional data that showed increased irregular waveforms and peaks in the zigzag stitch. There were no correlations between seam strength and tensile strength.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.582-598
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• 2019

Intermedia is a term that refers to the convergence of different media. It has not only enabled the delivery of brand message but also developed interactive communication in a contemporary fashion show context. This study investigates the presentation methods of contemporary fashion shows affected by intermedia. We examined the research and theory related to intermedia and fashion shows by accessing articles since the 2000s concerning 252 shows by 30 designers that tended to demonstrate the use of intermedia. Our analysis highlighted four particular characteristics: "medium scalability" (the unity of art and fashion and the unity of life and fashion); "synesthetic flow" (the audience's emotional immersion, represented by the actual performance and performances of the models); "participatory accessibility" (performance participation through action and instrumental support); and "immaterial symbolization" (an intuitive symbol that emphasizes both the direct outward appearance and the metaphorical symbolism so that the object is expressed in a figurative sense). From these results, we identified considerable synergy between the characteristics of intermedia and contemporary fashion shows. Therefore, it might be useful to conduct an experimental study on this area of research.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.85-96
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• 1998

This is a study on the revitalization of the fashion design studios (planning and production companies of clothing) in compliance with the request from the Small and Medium Business Administration. It's purpose is to strengthen the competence of the petty company and eventually frourish the Korean Fashion Business. The research method to conduct this study consists of two parts. First part is the research on the domestic industry mainly by questionaire, interviews and literature reviews. After making out the directory of the design studios (total of 700), 85 studios were selected for the questionaire. And by interviewing them, data with more depth was obtained. The second part is the research of the foreign cases. In the case of Japan, survey was done on the spot. However, in the case of Italy, literature review and interview with specialists were made. Also in order to higher the efficiency of the study an advisory committee and final explanatory meeting was carried into effect. This study has started first by looking into the significance and function of the fashion design studios. Then, a full scale examination was made centering around the questionarie of the present conditions of the companies. General conditions were first observed. Then the survey was done by grouping the industry by the industrial classifications such as woven, knit, leather mustang fur and fashion accesaries. The problems these companies face are that they are petty in scale and in lack of speciality, professional training, government support. Also, they are without an association or an organization that speaks for them and they face problems while doing business with others. Cases of Japan and Italy were surveyed as the example of the advanced nations. In the case of Japan, development of planning and management company, Fashion Soft House, was analyzed. Italy for instance, the function of the studios was looked into centering around the silk complex, Como, knit product complex, Capri. Also, precedent cases of brands and developing factor of the fashion industry was examined. Finally, on the basis of the result of the study, a plan to revitalize the fashion design studios was presented centering around the strategic planning, management, production, developing of talent, improvement of relationship between business acqaintance, and the support policy of the government.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.69-78
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to investigate of fabric characteristics in women's wear as reviewing the fabric trends in 1990's domestic fashion. As a method to accomplish this research, I have examined the articles related to fashion fabric and fashion trend magerzines. This study considered women's wear relatively used diverse fabrics, there was not previous study regarding the fabrics used in domestic, since the 1990's. The social fators for the 1990's fashion were the influence of the informed, the increased concern for the ecological environment, the sattlement of young popular culture, the increase of resonable consume and social anxiety. To understand the fashion trends of the 1990's women's wear, it is divided three periods. The traditional period is from 1991 to 1993, the mixed period of the naturalism and the technology is from 1994 to 1995, the retro period is from 1996 to 1999. The charateristics of the fabrics used in 1990's women's wear were the appearance of various functional fabrics, the development of new synthetic fabric with high sensitivity, the popularization of circular knit, the fabrics with a retro mood toward traditional feminine mood and the blending of fabrics. The fashion of 1990 have had the characteristics of various utilization of the materials on the base of reasonable and practical trends than the changes of design and detail.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.9
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• pp.142-150
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• 2008

A universal design means a progressive and challenging design in the 21st century which can satisfy the demands from not only aged people and disabled people but also numerous members of our society. This research aims to apply a universal design commonly used in architecture (environment) and products to costumes, so as to convert the design into a universal fashion which can meet the aesthetic values, desires, and functionality of aged people and disabled women. After applying the said five universal fashion principles and design factors, a total of 20 pieces of universal fashion prototype products are produced through functional designs and designs utilizing knit materials and health & functionality materials. In addition, a direction to develop universal fashion products is suggested for costume manufacturers, for the purpose of facilitating the practical use of a universal fashion. The present author expects that human-centered universal fashion costumes shall propose the orientation of the interest in future new designs, beyond the scope of a jump in the quality of simple functional costumes.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.39-44
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• 2023

As the number of companion animals reaches 15 million in 2022, the pet wear market is expected to grow at an average annual rate of about 14.5% from KRW 1.5684 trillion in 2014 to a market size of over KRW 6 trillion in 2027. However, most of the pet clothing and various supplies currently in circulation are either cheap, low-quality products imported from China or other countries, or expensive products released by overseas luxury brands. Therefore, it is urgent to develop a brand that can compete with luxury products coming from overseas by developing premium pet fashion products using high-end functional fabrics produced domestically. This study seeks to propose ways to revitalize the domestic pet fashion market by examining the current status of global pet fashion, the domestic textile industry, and the current status of the pet fashion market. The suggestions and expected effects are as follows. First, active support is needed for the development of products using domestically produced fabrics, such as raising awareness through various subsidy projects and contests. Second, it is expected that small and medium-sized businesses will be revitalized through the production of pet fashion products using high-quality functional knit fabrics produced in northern Gyeonggi Province. Third, it is necessary to produce high-quality premium products through continuous and intensive support from the government and collaboration between large corporations and small and medium-sized enterprises. Fourth, there is an urgent need to provide opportunities to train experts for the expected effects of starting businesses and creating new jobs.