• Title/Summary/Keyword: knit fashion

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A Study on the Knit Flare Skirts for Making Method through Sensory Test - Cut & Sew and Seamless Making Method - (니트 플레어스커트의 제작 방법에 따른 외관 평가 - 봉제형과 무 봉제형 -)

  • Ki, Hee-Sook;Kim, Young-Ju;Suh, Jung-Kwon;Ryu, Kyoung-Ok;Suh, Mi-A
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.18 no.3
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    • pp.465-475
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    • 2010
  • For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. Samples differed from each other by skirt angles($90^{\circ}$, $180^{\circ}$), gauges(7G, 12G, 15G), and grain directions(bias direction, wale direction, and radial direction). After measuring the mechanical properties of various gauges on the seamless knitting machine, I compared shape of the knitted flare skirt through subjective evaluation on appearances. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, Duncan-test, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The subjective evaluation on appearances of knitted flare skirts showed the following: In case of $90^{\circ}$ skirt, the seamless skirt showed a much higher score in every gauge expect that of the cut and sew 12G, and silhouette of 15G wale direction. In case of the $180^{\circ}$ skirt, the seamless type showed a much higher score in every item over the cut and sew expect the silhouette part of 7G wale direction.

A Study on the Characteristics of Knitwear Fashion Design: With a focus on Missoni, Sonia Rykiel, Azzedine Alaia

  • Chun, Hei Jung;Park, Jae Min
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.13 no.1
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    • pp.23-34
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    • 2013
  • The purpose of this study is to better understand the development and characteristics of knitwear fashion design by examining the transformation process of the modern knits. The subjects of the study are Missoni, Sonia Rykiel, and Azzedine Alaia, designers who are world-renowned knit designers, and the expressive techniques in their designs will be evaluated. The study also intends to analyze the aesthetic value of each designer's style through their product's silhouette, colors, and knitting techniques. On the basis of the analysis, we hope to research the factors in the designing process that will allow knits, which were made for practical purposes, to be valued as a luxury fashion item, and with the results, show the potential for knits in expanding its domain in fashion to become a more luxurious, creative fashion item. The characteristic comparison of the designers is as follows: First, in the case of colors, Missoni shows its distinct identity through a balance of splashy colors as well as nature-inspired color composition and balance. And, only with color use, is also able to express perspective, form composition, and rhythm. Sonia Rykiel designs are composed of black backgrounds with strong primary colors that are contrasted with one-point or stripes to express a light, urban image. Alaia emphasizes femininity by the use of black and white colors, which show modernity, in combination with neutral skin-toned colors, such as beige and gray. So, in other words, Missoni and Sonia Rykiel mixed colors for visual interconnectivity, while Alaia expressed femininity through the use of an achromatic color. Second, in the case of knitting techniques, Missoni uses the jacquard technique to make complex patterns that show balance of colors and patterns such as zigzag, stripe, geometries, and titan check, which are geometric, abstract, and symmetric. Sonia Rykiel who uses stripes as her trademark, most often utilizes the intarsia technique, which is expressed through one-point. Alaia combines diverse techniques, such as the Skashi weaving, by using computerized knitting. Third, as for silhouettes, Missoni eliminated exaggerated details in order to emphasize the flashy colors and delicate patterns and weavings of its designs, and this resulted in simplistic and relaxed silhouettes. Sonia Rykiel took advantage of the elasticity that the knit offers to get a tight silhouette, and in turn, emphasized the female sensuality. Alaia used curvilinear cuts that emphasized the womanly curves and gained an image considered soft and feminine.

The Relationship of Structural Properties, Subjective Textures and Sensibilities of Knit Fabrics - Wool/Rayon Fiber Contents and Loop Length - (니트 소재의 구성 특성과 주관적 질감 및 감성의 관계 - 양모/레이온 혼용률 및 편환장 변화를 중심으로 -)

  • Ju, Jeong-Ah;Ryu, Hyo-Seon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.29 no.8 s.145
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    • pp.1158-1167
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    • 2005
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the effect of structural properties of plain knit fabrics on the subjective textures and sensibilities of consumers. We investigated the relationship of subjective textures and sensibilities according to fiber contents of wool/rayon and stitch loop length. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. A factor analysis showed that subjective textures are classified into 3 categories with $R^2=70.32\%$: 'surface-rough', 'drapable', 'bulky' and 'elastic' and subjective sensibilities into 3 categories with $R^2=68.12\%$: 'stable/neat', 'feminine/elegant' and 'natural/comfortable'. The fiber contents of wool/rayon had a positive and linear relation with 'surface-rough', but had a relatively non-linear one with 'bulky' and 'elastic' categories of textures, and 'feminine/elegant' of sensibilities. The stitch loop length had a linear influence on 'drapable' and 'stable/neat', but had a non-linear influence on other subjective textures and sensibilities.

Research on the Actual Condition of Shape and Make-up of Peanut-Shaped Cloth Diaper for Baby on Market (시판중인 유아용 땅콩기저귀의 형태와 구성에 관한 실태조사)

  • Lee, Jung-Soon;Han, Gyung-Hee;Koo, Mi-Ran
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.15 no.4
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    • pp.122-134
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    • 2011
  • The peanut-shaped cloth diaper has cut uncomfortable crotch region off the square-shaped cloth diaper into a peanut-shape, and finished the edge by bias with multi-layers of fabric. This study has the purpose on providing the basic data for designing the peanut-shaped cloth diaper. For this purpose, the peanut-shaped cloth diapers on market were collected and analyzed by their shape and size, and also the patterns and differences in making were compared. 26 products from 17 brands were collected as samples. The analysis factors are the shape and size of the peanut-shaped cloth diaper, and characteristics and patterns in making. Among the samples, only 3 diapers were straight-shaped; the rest of them were peanut-shaped. The size difference between the big and small peanut-shaped cloth diapers was very large; the total length of the small one was 36.5cm-39cm which was very common, and the total length of the big one was more than 44cm. All diapers had longer width in the back than the front. The width of the front and back was different for each sample, therefore, it seemed to have some difficulties to set the standard. The peanut-shaped cloth diaper had different make-up depending on its characteristics including. absorbance, washing and drying. It was usually made by cotton woven of diamond jacquard or knit, and finished the edge by woven bias or knit bias. The peanut-shaped cloth diapers were various including a sheet of diaper, two sheets of diapers fixed with velcro, three sheets of diapers, and etc. For the patterns of the diapers, only two samples out of all had three dimensional shape, and the rest were produced using flat shape. There were no distinction between the diapers of girls and boys. Therefore, it is necessary to make the product based on scientific data about the peanut-shaped cloth diaper.

A Study on the Artistic Representation and Design of Fashion (패션의 藝術的 表現과 디자인 硏究 - 실루엣과 Image 효과-)

  • 김은주
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.5 no.1
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    • pp.85-98
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    • 1997
  • The purpose of this study is to pointed artistic representation design on fashion through observation, integrating of the formative arts. Above all, designing principle should be considered with trend, styling ,coloring. Suggested designing study is the essence of present methods. ① Clothing as an art ② Expression in fashion design ③ Creation of the artistic sense ④ The various techniques of design ⑤ Perform the steps of design (Ⅰ) ∼ (Ⅲ) That is to say, fashion is reflected in the spirit of painters as well as designers. Art is close and common relationship between individual will-to-form and the sense of value. Thus Art wear is represented the minute expression of designing the function with artistic originality. I submit some opinion and my studies. ① Forms of Formative Arts ② Analysis of the Silhouette & Design - - ③ Color scheme of Design ④ Artistic representation techniques - Knit wear design ⑤ Emotion of Beauty The results of this study were as follows : 1. Fashion design is demanded to do motivation by means of artistic representation. 2. Smart, sophisticated image effects, avoiding posterlike garish appearance. 3. It is supported for fashion information which is relating to design through industry society.

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A Study on Knit Designs Using the Formative Character of ′Jogakbo′

  • Noh, Ji-Won;Lim, Young--Ja
    • Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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    • 2003.10a
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    • pp.38-38
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    • 2003
  • Costumes has changed according to its historical background, social conditions and life style for that particular age. The same is true of our clothing. Many changes are found in them based on our ancestral knowledge in an effort to apply better conveniences and more sophisticated clothing culture.

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A Study on Adapting Patterns to Stable Knit Fabrics in Relation to Drapability

  • Song, Mi-Ryong;Yang, Soo-Yung
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • v.2 no.2
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    • pp.80-96
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    • 1999
  • This research focused on pattern adjustments of the stable knit garment for women. Fourteen different types of the knitted fabrics by 12 gauge, computerized flat bed machines were cut in as one half of the torso front, one half of the torso back, and one side of the sleeves for each of them. Guidelines such as the center front, the center back, the armhole, the bust-line, the waistline, the hip-line the hemline were basted on the torso patterns in the knitted fabrics. Also the grain-line, the elbow-line, and the hemline were basted on the one side of the sleeves in the same as above knitted fabrics. The torso patterns in the knitted fabrics were exhibited on the dress-forms on top of the torso patterns in Muslin, which also have the same guidelines drawn on. The distances between the guidelines on Muslin and those on the knitted fabrics for each set of the sample fabrics were measured every three days for two weeks. The fabric properties of the fourteen knitted fabrics such as fiber contents, stitch density both in the wale and course directions, weight, thickness, stretch & recovery, residual shrinkage, relaxation and drapability were laboratory tested for how these were related to finished appearance of 12 gauge, computerized flat knit garments and also in order to prove the fourteen knitted fabrics fall to a category of such as the stable knit. The results from the investigation revealed that six fabric properties such as stitch density, thickness, stretch recovery, residual shrinkage and relaxation were not so much significant factors as weight and drapability. In conclusion, fabric weight, and drapability of the fabric resulting from fiber contents were the cause of final appearance distortion of garment. When adapting patterns for stabilized, 12 gauge, computerized flat knitted fabrics, the fiber contents of the fabrics should be taken into consideration to reduce the production cost and produce better-fit garments.

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A sutudy of Elasticity Fabrics Expressed on Fashion Style (패션 작품(作品)에 표현(表現)된 신축성(伸縮性) 소재(素材)의 연구(硏究))

  • Choi, Jeong-Im;Jeon, Dong-Won;Kim, Jong-Jun
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.11 no.4
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    • pp.92-100
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    • 2007
  • The most emphasized materials in the modern fashion are the elastic materials with the advent of sportswear. In the area of elastic materials, the technology of foaming plastics became main research area. As novel materials, latex and neoprene based fabrics are emerging for the elastic material, among those elastic material staged by renowned fashion designers. We searched those works through literature and pictures, and examined the physical properties. Neoprene composite with filament knit fabrics are excellent in strength and water-proof. Latex fabrics gave smooth feel and elastic feel. These may be adequate for aesthetic textile material. Based on these characteristics, these techno-texitiles will find broad applications in the fashionable materials.

Seamless Garment Knitwear Design Trend (국내외 무봉제 니트웨어 디자인 경향)

  • Lee, In-Suk;Cho, Kyu-Hwa;Kim, Ji-You
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.15 no.1
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    • pp.34-49
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    • 2011
  • This study is the design case analysis of seamless knitwear in order to suggest a new direction of high value-added seamless knitwear and seek for its possibility. Seamless knitwear is the up-to-date knit product that is made by a knitting machine without sewing, and it maintains elasticity of a material itself and is the closest type to the essence of knitwear. The seamless knitwear can satisfy satisfaction of customers with more elegance and individuality and become a method to develop a high value-added design. This study suggests a new direction for the 21st century knitwear design through a practical approach of seamless knitwear designs, pursues a high value fashion, and contributes to improving national competitiveness of fashion industries in order to be a practical research data for seamless knitwear designs.

The ′Well-Being′ Trend and Its Impacts on the Current Knitwear Fashion (최근 니트웨어 패션에 나타난 ′웰빙′의 영향 - 2000년 이후의 여성복을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim Kyung-In
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.6 no.3
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    • pp.111-121
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    • 2004
  • The influence of the 'well-being' trend on the every day life of our society can be found by recent books, articles, and magazines. The purpose of this study is to analyze the well-being trend and its effect on the current knitwear fashion. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; (1) The 'well-being' trend is very different from the past life style and it will be a preceding life style in 21st century. (2) The preference for organic food and the promotion of 'colorful menu' came from the 'well-being' trend. And, the yoga, zen, meditation, aroma-therapy, spa, and massage are also under the influence of 'well-being' trend. (3) The Neo-Hippie look and Neo-Vintage look are connected with the 'well-being' trend. (4) The influences of 'well-being' trend on the current knitwear fashion are shown in the hand knitting (bulky knit & crochet), twin sets including cardigans, hand crafted details, natural colors, and natural materials.

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