• 감성과학
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.141-148
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 생체모방기술을 응용하여 감성의류용 구조발색사를 방사하고, 이를 사용하여 직물을 제직 감량 가공하여 이들의 발색성 및 촉감 물성을 측정하여 감성의류용 용도의 적용성을 확인하여 다음과 같은 연구결과를 얻었다. 삼각단면을 가진 37층의 폴리에스테르와 나일론을 교호로 적층한 구조발색사의 방사조건을 확립하였으며, 이 세 가지 사의 발색성을 multi angle spectro-photometer로 확인하였다. 그리고 이 사들로 제직한 구조발색 직물 세 가지의 겉보기 색차와 반사율을 분석한 결과, 700nm에서 400nm까지의 파장에서 발색성을 확인하였다. 또한, 직물의 밀도와 조직이 다른 세 가지 구조발색 직물을 제직하고 감량 가공 처리하여 직물 역학특성치에서 촉감을 측정한 결과, $100^{\circ}C$, 60분 감량 처리한 시료가 최적설계(194ends/in ${\times}$ 105picks/in) 및 감량 조건임을 확인할 수 있었다. 그리고 감량 처리 시 온도와 처리시간 증가에 따라 감량률이 13%에서 최대 23%까지 증가함을 확인할 수 있었다. 이때 직물의 신축특성, 굽힘강성 및 전단강성은 감소하며 압축특성은 증가하는 현상을 보였다. 그리고 최적설계조건인 1번 직물시료를 $100^{\circ}C$, 60분 감량 처리할 때 촉감이 가장 우수하며 일본 몰포 직물보다 더 우수한 촉감치를 얻었다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.89-101
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to investigate the fashion item of the symbolic fashion icons in the 20th century. The symbolism of fashion icons was grouped into four classes according to the influence of a social-cultural change. 1. Icons between dream and reality: A dreary emotion that was caused by material richness has a longing for an ideal image. A typical style was Art Nouveau style, which pressed into a grotesque S-bend. While as the world placed on a economic reconstruction after World War I, rational fashion icon which pursued more function and simplify than cumbersome style and complexity came out. 2. Icons between solid and liquid: A solid icons was connected with a mode of female body during World War 1. This extremely stylized female figure. Flowing fabrics enveloped the stylized female figure and they brought a liquid icons into relief. 3. Icons between uniformity and variety: At a time when uniformity was appeared strongly within 20th century is during World War II and about 1940-1950. The uniformal icon was classified into uniformity by uniform and by mass production. A repugnance for the uniformity and imitation of fashion was tried a new fashion style. It could be called with the various of fashion icon. 4. Icons between social secession and rediscovery: In 1950-1960, 1970-1990, and the end of 20th century, the advent of the young culture was born a consumer who newly breaks in fashion. It could be included within the domain of social secession icon. While the rediscovery of fashion icon was associated with experimental new fibers, leotard, suitable replacement for wool or acrylic knit, silk that could stretch in any direction, new fabrics that were transparent, took color beautifully, and could be painted, tie-dyed, or embroidered.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.49-58
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of covering yarn's twist on mechanical properties of knitted fabrics of composite yarns with single covering process. Four yarns that were used in this study: two different composite yarns made from the four kinds of cotton and functional polyester-(Poly-A) with the ratio of 52:48, and the rest two yarns are the original cotton 100% yarn and the poly-A 100% yarn. The two kinds of composite yarns, CP1 and CP2, were processed on the single covering process. CP1 was applied on the single covering process with S-800 tpm, where Poly-A was used as covering yarn and cotton was used as core yarn. CP2 was applied on the same process as CP1 except that Poly-A had been applied on the two-for-one twisting process with S-400 tpm on the previous step. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the four knifed fabrics knitted under the same knitting conditions were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. And 3D CAD dressmaking simulations, which were driven by some of the mechanical properties, were presented. The results were as follows: CP2 had high RT values with twisting of covering yarn. CP2 also had high B, 2HB values because of higher linear density. SMD was affected rather by twisting of covering yarn than by fine hair of the cotton surface. Twisting of covering yarn made it decreasing T value and increasing W value. Dressmaking 3D CAD simulations showed that there are buckling effects on CP2 because of high bending rigidity and shear rigidity.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권4호
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• pp.432-442
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• 2012

This study investigated the practical use of educational subjects and contents of materials in the fashion industry field and analyzed all data from respondents depending on business area and years of work in order to develop appropriate educational methods and courses. The survey was conducted with 151 questionnaires; 148 responses were used in the data analysis. The statistical analysis methods were frequency analysis, factor analysis, and ANOVA. The factors of educational subjects for Clothing and Textiles were classified into three categories of product planning, manufacturing and basic information, and manufacturing-related subjects (including materials); subsequently, these showed a high practical use in the fashion business. There were significant differences in the practical use of educational subjects that depended on business areas and years of work for respondents. In the case of education of materials, the contents of fibers, knit fabrics and textile planning were used the most in various business areas; in addition, there were also significant differences in the practical use of knits, textile care, textile planning and trade, and textile retailing depending on business area.

• Composites Research
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• 제28권3호
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• pp.136-141
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• 2015

The stitching process has been widely utilized for the improvement of through-thickness property of the conventional laminated composites. This paper reports the effects of stitching on the flexural and interlaminar shear properties of multi-axial warp knitted (MWK) composites in order to identify the mechanical property improvements. In order to minimize the geometric uncertainties associated with the stacking pattern of fabrics, the regular lay-up was considered in the examination of the stitching effect. The key parameters are as follows: the stitch spacings, the stitching types, the stitching location, and the location of compression fixture nose. These parameters have little effect on the flexural and interlaminar shear properties, except for the case of stitching location. However, the geometry variations caused by the stitching resulted in minor changes to the mechanical properties consistently. Stitching on the $0^{\circ}$ fibers showed the lowest flexural strength and modulus (12% reduction for both properties). The stitch spacing of 5 mm resulted in 8% reduction for the case of interlaminar strength compared with that of 10 mm spacing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권3_4호
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• pp.539-545
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• 2004

In this study, the effect of washing, bleaching, and abrasion on tactile and the water absorption properties of the split-type Nylon/Polyester (N/P) microfiber pile-knit was investigated under various enduse conditions. We examined the water absorption and surface properties of PET microfiber which will be very useful in the future. We also studied the variations of their performance during usage caused by friction and repeated washing, regard to all kinds of physical, chemical changes which will appear while using those textiles. Progress in further splitting of PET microfiber fabric is observed with increases in the number of washing and bleaching cycles, and treatment temperature. Initial water absorption (%) was increased with progress in splitting, which provided efficient capillary channel. Surface properties were varied with additional splitting by washing and abrasion. Formation of pilling and splitting by abrasion increase surface roughness, diminishing tactile property, and reduced water absorption property. The current results from this study is expected to provide the appropriate washing management guide to consumers, and to inform end-use performance of product to a producer for improving product quality.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.60-70
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• 2003

Textile scientists have regarded the material appearance of natural fibers, especially that of silk or wool fibers, as the benchmark for reinventing the look and feel of the long term, friendly companion of mankind. The appearances or textures of the materials surrounding us in everyday life have long been interesting topics to many people.from scholars to painters. Even the simplest questions may require careful pondering. Why is the silk fabric so lustrous with subtlety? Recently, appearance models have become increasingly important in textile products. They are needed to model and simulate different models. In this study, the optical characteristics of filament yarns and knitted fabrics were investigated using images taken at various angles and illumination conditions. Then the images were analyzed using some image analysis techniques, such as thresholding and measuring luster blobs. The anisotropic nature of the filamentous specimens was studied based on the images acquired at different incident illumination and observing angles with several alignment positions of the fabric specimens. A few cylindrical models were generated using commercially available software, Rhinoceros, and then on the models, a ray-tracing algorithm based on a software, POV-Ray, was applied to simulate the appearance or lustrous images of the monofilament models.

• 감성과학
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.49-58
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• 2015

본 연구는 감성의류용 탄화지르코늄 함유 축열 니트의 원적외선 특성을 연구하였다. 탄화지르코늄 함유 축열 PET 원사가 이성분 방사법에 의해 방사되었다. 이 원사의 core부에는 고점도 PET와 탄화지르코늄을 혼합한 용액을, sheath부에는 저점도 PET 용액을 사용하여 콘쥬게이트 방사를 실시하였다. 이들 방사된 원사의 원소분석과 원적외선 특성 분석이 EDS와 FT-IR 계측기기에 의해 분석되었으며 두 가지 조직의 니트 소재를 편직하여 이들의 열적특성을 분석하였다. EDS 분석에서 Zr 피크를 확인하였으며 원사내에 Zr 원소가 19.29% 함유되어 있음을 확인하였다. 또한 원적외선 분석에서 $5{\sim}20{\mu}m$ 파장 영역에서 원적외선 방사에너지가 $3.65{\times}10^2W/m^2$, 방사율이 0.906 임을 확인하였다. KES-F7 측정기 분석에서 ZrC 함유 편성물의 Qmax 값이 일반 PET 편성물의 값보다 낮은 값을 보였고 보온율 값은 ZrC 함유 편성물이 일반 PET보다 더 높은 값을 보이므로서 ZrC의 축열성을 확인하였다. 열전도도는 Zr의 높은 열전도도 때문에 일반 PET 편물보다 더 높은 값을 보였다. ZrC의 함유가 편물의 촉감에 미치는 영향을 없었으며 편성 조직이 더 큰 영향을 주는 것을 확인하였다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.33-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to eximine the effect of different yam twisting methods on mechanical properties and 3D CAD images of plain knitted fabrics made of composite yarns. Six yams were used in this study: four different composite yams of the six consist of acetate and functional polyester (Poly-m) with the ratio of 70:30, and the rest two are the original acetate $100\%$ yam and the poly-m $100\%$ yarn. The four kinds of composite yarns were processed in combinations of twisting processes such as interlacing, false twisting, two for one twisting, combined twisting and single covering, and the two original yams were knitted without any twisting process. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the six knitted fabrics, knitted under the same knitting conditions, were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. The results were as follows; 1) When the sample applied with the false twisting process at the temperature as high as $220^{\circ}C$, ENT, B, HB, G and RC values of samples increased which leads to increasing dimensional stability. 2) To gain the high bending and shear properties in the single covering process, selecting the core yarn with such properties is the most important factor. 3) Interlacing process effected to increase RC value. 4) False twisting process after interlacing process gave bulkiness and un-interlaced part in yam was increased SMD value. The SMD value of the kilted fabric of the composite yarn, which was put through the combined twist process, was higher than those of which simple process such as the two for one twist or the single covering process applied. In order to achieve the silk-like surface feel of knitted fabric, the sin91e covering process is recommended. 5) Examining the simulation images of the knifed fabrics of composite yarn, which were generated by the 3D CAD system based on the mechanical properties of the fabric, led that appearance could be changed as different twisting methods were applied.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.442-445
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to compare the subjective fabric hand evaluation and wear comfort of PET treated by Ultraviolet and to evaluate the subjective results from the investigation of microclimate temperature. The subjective hand evaluation was performed by 20 subjects (age: 20-25) with 5-point scale questionnaires to investigate the change of PET knit fabrics treated for different times, specifically, 0, 30 and 90 minutes. The questionnaires were composite with 8 questions; roughness, smoothness, wetness, stiffness, coolness, touch, preference, and comfort. In order to evaluate sensations of wear comfort, we made garments with UV treated fabric and five female students were tested. They walked at the speed of 6.7 km/ hr for 15 minutes in an environment, which was controlled at $29^{\circ}C,\;75{\pm}5%$ RH. Before and after exercising, the microclimate under clothing and subjective wear comfort was measured. The results of subjective evaluation of fabric hand were that untreated and treated for 30 minutes PET were recognized as similar and have a good evaluation on comfort, preference, and touch. According to the result of wear comfort, clothing treated by UV for 90 minutes had the lowest value on the thermal and humidity sensations. In addition, the value of tactile and comfort sensation was the highest on the clothing treated by UV for 90 minutes. In the case of objective evaluation, PET treated for 90 minutes was the lowest on microclimate humidity. PET irradiated by UV for 90 minutes was more 'cool' in thermal sensation and more 'dry' in wet sensation. Accordingly, it was consistent with the result of subjective wear comfort.