• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.77-86
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to characterize physical and tensile properties according to a knitting method as basic materials for solving the difficulties that occur due to the fact that the crosswise elongation is most different among knit stitch at the time of measuring elongation of knitwear. The sample used for this study was wool $100\%$ and was knitted into two, that is, controlled loop length controlled to properties of structure and fixed loop length by using Shimaseiki SES-124S 12G computer automatic flat knitting machine with DSCS device. Also, the density of rib fabric was 12gauge and its quantity was a total of seven of $0{\times}0,\;1{\times}1,\;2{\times}1,\;2{\times}2,\;3{\times}3,\;4{\times}4$ and including plain fabric, and knitted 2 pieces of sample of 300 wale${\times}400$ course. In conclusion, rib stitch has the much higher stretch rate in the direction of the course than other stitches.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.460-464
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• 2009

The purpose of the study was to investigate the changes of drapability and mechanical properties with folded yarn conditions. The samples were knitted 100% cotton yarn with hand-knitting machine. Mechanical properties were measured by Instron and Kawabata tester. Drapability was measured by Drapemeter. The differences in each sample were observed in the experimental results. This study showed that folded conditions were important conditions for fabric handle and properties.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.03a
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• pp.98-98
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• 2011

직물의 경우 드레이프성을 줄이고 KOSHI감(stiffness)을 부여하기 위해 일반적으로 나이프(knife) 코팅가공을 주로 사용한다. 하지만 니트는 워낙 신축성이 뛰어나기 때문에 큰 장력을 요구하는 일반 코팅공정을 적용할 경우 원단이 나이프에 밀리는 현상과 신장 상태에서 경화되어 니트 특유의 신축성을 완전히 읽어버리는 문제가 발생한다. 따라서 니트 코팅 가공을 위해 원단에 장력이 걸리지 않으며 니트 원단에 직접 수지를 도포하는 방식이 아닌 간접 도포가 가능한 장비를 고안하였다. 즉, 아래에 나타낸 모식도와 같이 프로팅이나 over roll 나이프 방식을 사용하여 전사에 필요한 수지를 R/F에 코팅하고 이를 니트와 붙인 후 열풍 건조기와 열실린더를 통과시켜 수지가 니트에 전사되도록 하는 것이다. 본 연구에서는 고신축성과 탁월한 포면 터치감을 가지는 니트를 겉옷 및 다양한 용도로 전개하기 위해 R/F(releas fabric)의 조건을 설정 및 코팅 조건 설정을 통해 니트 가공 직물의 성능 변화를 살펴보기로 한다.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.272-281
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• 2010

This paper surveys the effects of drawing conditions of the worsted staple yarns on the mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics for highly aesthetical fabrics. The drawn worsted yarns were made on the yarn drawing system with various draw ratios under the fixed conditions of setting time, reduction and oxidation. The knitted fabric specimens were prepared on the 16 gauge circular knitting machine using these drawn worsted staple yarns. The tensile, shear, bending, compression and surface properties of these knitted fabrics were measured by KES-FB-AUTO-A system and also discussed with the drawing conditions. The tensile linearity, shear stiffness and bending rigidity decreased with increasing draw ratio. Any changes were not shown on the compressional properties with drawing conditions. But the friction coefficient of the knitted fabric on the course direction increased with increasing draw ratio, while there was no change according to the draw ratio on the wale direction.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.79-87
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• 2014

Dyeing fabric weaved with two or more kinds of fiber in different section has various dyeing interactions caused by different material properties of them. Newly developed knit fabric was used in this study. It composited by two different blocks, each block is included PET fiber and CDP fiber separately. Build-up properties with cation dyes and disperse dyes were good having average 83% of dyeing exhaustion yield on 5% o.w.f. dye concentration. As depending on dyeing methods, there were not showed direct interaction between cation dyes and disperse dyes. This result could be considered their different dyeing mechanism. Compatibility was best in S-type disperse dyes investigated their critical absorption range as $120^{\circ}C{\sim}130^{\circ}C$. Wash fastness was generally good in most dye.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.60-70
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• 2003

Textile scientists have regarded the material appearance of natural fibers, especially that of silk or wool fibers, as the benchmark for reinventing the look and feel of the long term, friendly companion of mankind. The appearances or textures of the materials surrounding us in everyday life have long been interesting topics to many people.from scholars to painters. Even the simplest questions may require careful pondering. Why is the silk fabric so lustrous with subtlety? Recently, appearance models have become increasingly important in textile products. They are needed to model and simulate different models. In this study, the optical characteristics of filament yarns and knitted fabrics were investigated using images taken at various angles and illumination conditions. Then the images were analyzed using some image analysis techniques, such as thresholding and measuring luster blobs. The anisotropic nature of the filamentous specimens was studied based on the images acquired at different incident illumination and observing angles with several alignment positions of the fabric specimens. A few cylindrical models were generated using commercially available software, Rhinoceros, and then on the models, a ray-tracing algorithm based on a software, POV-Ray, was applied to simulate the appearance or lustrous images of the monofilament models.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.629-634
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• 2012

Knitted fabric using acrylic/wool blended yarn (A/W) is increasingly used in the knit industry; subsequently, research on knitted fabric using A/W has increased. This study presents an scientific database from evaluating physical properties of $1{\times}1$ rib stitch using A/W. In this study,$1{\times}1$ rib stitch using A/W were made at various knitting tensions (dial no. 2-6) and the number (4-6) of ply yarn. The physical properties of $1{\times}1$ rib stitch using A/W were measured and analyzed. The density was in the range 5.5-6.4 wales/cm and 4.0-5.6 courses/cm, respectively. The density increased when less plying yarns and more knitting tension were added during knitting. The thickness was in the range of 1.592-2.362 mm and the tensile strength was in the range 32.75-53.63 Kgf/mm. The burst strength was in the range 107.8-139.2 $N/cm^2$. Thickness, tensile strength, and burst strength increased as the number of ply yarn and the knitting tension increased. The elongation and the recovery extension rate were in the range 102.29-112.13% and 96.4-97.7%, respectively. The heat retention rate was in the range 59.3-65.1%. There was no difference of the elongation and the recovery extension rate and the heat retention rate by the knitting tension and the number of the ply yarn. The permeability was in the range 170.5-396.3 $cm^3/cm^2/sec$. Air permeability decreased as the number of ply yarn and the knitting tension increased. The pilling properties were excellent for all $1{\times}1$ rib stitches.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.270-282
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to inquire into lounge wear and Jeff Koons and to design lounge wear in which the works, Balloon Dog(1994$\sim$2000) and Hanging Heart(1994$\sim$2006), of Jeff Koons was applied. The concept of design was appealed as sensuousness, activeness, and comfort. The target of design was teens and those in their 20s. Knit or woven fabric in 100% cotton/silk and cotton blended was selected. The design had fitted silhouette and the items were bras, panties, pajama pants, shorts, robes, slippers etc. Adobe Illustrator CS2 and Adobe Photoshop CS2 program were used for the design. In the lounge wear in which Balloon Dog applied, main color was red, blue, and green with pale tone and frills and pleats were selected for the details. Elastic blended fabric was used for the comfortable. Variety application of color and patterns were conducted for rhythmical visual. In the lounge wear design in which Hanging Heart applied, main color was also red, blue, and green with pale tone. Halter neck and robes were selected for the sexy looking. Cool and soft feelings were pursued through use of cotton and silk blended fabrics or stripes patterns. The result of this study may give valuable information to merchandisers and designers who develop lounge wear. It may also provide designers who use computer program such as Adobe Illustrator and Adobe Photoshop as design tools with useful examples.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.442-445
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to compare the subjective fabric hand evaluation and wear comfort of PET treated by Ultraviolet and to evaluate the subjective results from the investigation of microclimate temperature. The subjective hand evaluation was performed by 20 subjects (age: 20-25) with 5-point scale questionnaires to investigate the change of PET knit fabrics treated for different times, specifically, 0, 30 and 90 minutes. The questionnaires were composite with 8 questions; roughness, smoothness, wetness, stiffness, coolness, touch, preference, and comfort. In order to evaluate sensations of wear comfort, we made garments with UV treated fabric and five female students were tested. They walked at the speed of 6.7 km/ hr for 15 minutes in an environment, which was controlled at $29^{\circ}C,\;75{\pm}5%$ RH. Before and after exercising, the microclimate under clothing and subjective wear comfort was measured. The results of subjective evaluation of fabric hand were that untreated and treated for 30 minutes PET were recognized as similar and have a good evaluation on comfort, preference, and touch. According to the result of wear comfort, clothing treated by UV for 90 minutes had the lowest value on the thermal and humidity sensations. In addition, the value of tactile and comfort sensation was the highest on the clothing treated by UV for 90 minutes. In the case of objective evaluation, PET treated for 90 minutes was the lowest on microclimate humidity. PET irradiated by UV for 90 minutes was more 'cool' in thermal sensation and more 'dry' in wet sensation. Accordingly, it was consistent with the result of subjective wear comfort.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.151-162
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• 2012

The industry-wide development of digital technologies has also affected the textile and fashion industries immensely. The applications of 3D technology, virtual reality, and/or augmented reality systems have helped to create novel fashion brands based on the marriage of IT and textile/fashion industries. 3D digital virtual clothing systems have been developed to help the textile and fashion industries in terms of the planning, manufacturing, marketing and sales sectors. So far, most of the development effort for the 3d virtual clothing systems has been focused on the woven fabrics. The characteristics of woven fabrics differ from those of knitted fabric. Since the physical structures and mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics are definitely different from those of woven fabrics, the simulation process for the knitted fabrics should follow different approaches. The loops in a knitted fabric deform easily. The deformation results in a readily stretchable fabric appearance. Cloth simulation mostly employs models that approximate the mechanical properties of linear elastic planes. This simulation scheme does not, however, describe well enough the behavior of knitted fabrics, which deviate largely from the linear isotropic material characteristics. This study aims at characterizing the tensile deformation and surface textures of a knitted fabric product. Tensile deformation curves for the wale, course, and bias direction are analyzed. The surface texture of the knitted fabric is analyzed by using a 3-dimensional scanning device.