• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제13권2호
• /
• pp.163-173
• /
• 2011

The objective of this study is to examine the current status of manufacturing formal knit jackets for middle-aged women. Fifteen manufacturers specializing in formal knitwear brands were chosen as the study subjects, and interviews and questionnaires were used with patterners and designers. The questionnaire was composed of 27 items and began with general questions, such as how the jackets were manufactured. Specific questions, such as materials and sewing method, were also considered further on. The results are as follows: First, as for the structure of the knit jacket manufacturer, seven out of fifteen manufacturers directly manufactured knit jackets in their own factory, while the manufacturing was comprised of 20% woven jackets and 80% knit jackets for all manufactures. Second, as for the type of yarn mostly used in knitting the fabric for the jackets, satin yarn and wool were used mostly for F/W with Plain and Half Milano rib stitches as the type of knit with a gauge of 12G and 7G. Third, as for the margin between the product size of the target brand and the size of the body at the time of designing a knit jacket pattern, the investigation of the actual state of manufacturing showed that the margin at the bust was B+4.8cm, the waist was W+6.9cm, and the hip girth was H+5cm. Therefore, the bust and hip girth of the knit jackets were designed to be smaller than those of the bust and hip girth lines of non-flexible woven jackets. On the contrary, the waist measurement of non-flexible woven jacket was designed to be smaller than the knit jacket. It was found that the side line of the knit jacket was expressed with greater give as compared to that of the non-flexible woven jacket.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제32권1호
• /
• pp.93-102
• /
• 1994

The purpose of this study was to investigate the suitability of several knit fabrics for the hadicapped children's slacks. After the observation and wearing test abrasion resistance pilling liquid water transport properties and heat transport properties of the fabrics were tested. As specimens cotton/polypropylene interlock knits and sweat absorbent polyester knit fabric were selected and compared to the cotton denim and wool fabrics. As a result of observation test importance of extensibility durability and comfort related properties were recognized. Through the wearing test depending on the handicap type and orthoses different location and grade of pilling were observed. Knit fabrics used in this experiment were as durable as woven fabrics and showed excellent heat and liquid water transport properties. It was concluded therefore that cotton/polypropylene and sweat absorbent polyester knit fabrics are suitable materials for handicapped children's slacks.

• 한국생활과학회지
• /
• 제14권4호
• /
• pp.665-671
• /
• 2005

This study aims to examine the effect of structural properties, subjective textures, sensibilities, and objective handle on the preference for weft knit fabrics, and then to provide useful information in planning and designing knit fabrics through predicting the preference. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of wool/rayon fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. For the subjective evaluation of textures, sensibilities, and preference, we used the questionnaire that had been developed in the previous study. The data analysis was conducted with Pearson's correlation analysis, ANOVA, Duncann multiple range test and regression analysis. The results are as follows: In relationship of structural properties and preference, we could not recognize any difference in whole ranges of wool/ rayon fiber contents and in 7.5mm and less stitch loop length. On the other hand, we could find the decrease of preference in over 7.5mm stitch loop length. As to subjective textures and sensibilities, a multiple regression analysis of preference indicated a higher determination coefficient by sensibilities than by textures. But there were little correlation between a objective handle and preference of weft knit fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제30권1호
• /
• pp.83-93
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the relationship among subjective textures, sensibilities and objective handle of knit fabrics and to provide useful information in planning and designing knit fabrics. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of wool/rayon fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. For the subjective evaluation, we used 29 questions of subjective textures and sensibilities and employed statistical analysis tools such as factor, Pearson's correlation analysis. An objective handle was measured by Kawabata evaluation system and HV and THV was calculated by KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter. The analysis of a Pearson's correlation with objective properties and handles and structural properties of knit fabrics demonstrated a highly linear relationship. Especially, wool/rayon contents and WT of tensile properties and loop stitch length and G of shear properties showed a correlation coefficient over 0.9. But a relationship of objective properties and subjective textures and sensibilities was non-linear and a linear multi-regression analysis showed that a objective handle had a lower prediction power in the area of subjective textures and sensibilities.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• 제8권2호
• /
• pp.99-106
• /
• 2007

In this study, the mechanical properties related to the fabric appearance of well being functional bamboo knitted fabric before and after loess dyeing were evaluated. The mechanical properties of fabrics were measured by KES-F system, that is, shape retention, draping, wrinkle recovery, compression property, and surface properties, and total hand value of three types of knitted fabric, 100% bamboo, 100% cotton, and bamboo / cotton blend (60 / 40) were evaluated before and after loess dyeing. As a result, it was found that appearance density, shape retention, and drape coefficient of cotton knitted fabric were greater than those of bamboo knitted fabric. After loess dyeing, shape retention and drape coefficient, wrinkle recovery of bamboo knitted fabric improved and WC/C and MMD/SMD decreased. According to THV, the hand of bamboo/cotton blend knit is the best among three samples by compensation the weak properties of the two fiber. Therefore, loess dyeing seemed to be a good method for improving shape retention and hand value of 100% bamboo and bamboo blended fabric.

• Fibers and Polymers
• /
• 제7권2호
• /
• pp.203-212
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of the structural properties of plain knit fabrics on the subjective perception of textures, sensibilities, and preference among consumers. This study, then, aimed to provide useful information with respect to planning and designing knitted fabrics by predicting the subjective characteristics analyzed according to their structural properties. For this purpose, we employed statistical analysis tools, such as factor and regression analysis and an adaptive-network-based fuzzy inference system(ANFIS), thereby combining the merits of fuzzy and neural networks and presupposing a non-linear relationship. Through factor analysis, we also categorized the subjective textures into 'roughness', 'softness', 'bulkiness' and 'stretch-ability' with R2=70.32%: and categorized the sensibilities into 'Stable/Neat', 'Natural/Comfortable' and 'Feminine/Elegant' with R2=68.12%. We analyzed subjective textures, sensibilities, and preference with ANFIS, assuming non-linear relationships; consequently, we were able to generate three or four fuzzy rules using wool/rayon fiber content and loop length as input data. The textures of roughness and softness exhibited a linear relationship, but other subjective characteristics demonstrated a non-linear input-output relationship. Compared with linear regression analysis, the ANFIS exhibited had higher predictive power with respect to predicting subjective characteristics.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제7권5호
• /
• pp.165-176
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of various knitted fabrics of sports socks on their properties of hygiene and stability. Seventeen men\`s sports socks to represent five groups with different fiber content, knit structure, yarn fineness, and finishing were used. Properties of hygiene and stability of socks were determined. The results were as follows ; 1. Evaluation of Water, vapor and heat transport properties in socks with varing fiber content showed that cotton 100% socks had the highest drop absorbency, wickability, water absorbency and water retention. Polypropylene 100% socks had an excellent wickability and moisture permeability. Acrylic blend socks had the highest thermal resistance. 2. The greatest knit stretch and knit growth of socks having lower power were found to be with cotton 100% socks had the lowest stretch. Acrylic blend socks had a excellent stretch but low fabric growth, which could give a good fir sensation during wear. 3. The commerical antimicrobial finished socks showed excellent durability after repeated cycles of laundering. 4. Length and width shrinkages were found in all laundered samples during initial cycles due to rearrangement by mechanical relaxation. Shrinkages showed no further changes and reached equilibriums after 5 cycles. Cotton 100% or cotton blend socks showed lower dimensional stability than other socks during fabric care.

• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국섬유공학회 1999년도 가을 한국섬유공학회 학술발표회 논문집(Proceedings of the Korean Textile Conference)
• /
• pp.279-282
• /
• 1999

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제17권4호
• /
• pp.77-90
• /
• 2015

This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제29권3_4호
• /
• pp.561-568
• /
• 2005

The irradiation of Ultra-Violet (UV) is an efficient treatment for polymer to improve hydrophilic properties. 4-Channel PET knit fabrics were treated with UVA and UVC to develop functional and environment-friendly fabric. The fabric was treated with various treatment times and distances from UV lamps having different wavelength. FT-IR and XPS investigated the chemical changes. To confirm the change of surface properties, contact angle, surface energy and SEM were examined. The study of UV as a treatment for PET knit fabric shows significant changes in chemical and surface properties, which is proved by analyses. FT-IR and XPS analyses prove the augmentation of carboxylic, Hydrophilic groups on the surfaces treated by UV. The increase of water contact angle and surface energy means more water wettable and surface energy of PET film was substantially increased by UV irradiation time. The ageing after surface treatment had little influence on the surface energy of the irradiated PET film. SEM proves the surface modification of PET such as etching, bubble and crack. The negative effects are increased in accordance with increasing treatment time.