• 대한가정학회지
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• 제42권2호
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• pp.151-160
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• 2004

This paper researched and compared the Jangsam religious costume, of Buddhism in Yeongsanjae with that of Shamanism in Gutgeori. Jangsam is a full length, flaxen hemp dress used in both religions. (Ed-please amend this sentence as necessary but note that it is essential to give some description of the costume here for non-Korean readers) The religious point of view can cause Jangsam's features to differ Jangsam's meanings are as follows. First, the purpose of wearing Jangsam in both the Buddhist priest's and Shamans' costumes is to gain power from the Almighty in order to maximize the religious effect. Second, Jangsam in the Shaman's costume features universality mixed with Buddhism and folk religion and becomes symbolic in Buddhism. As society disregards Shamanism, it has become combined with Buddhism. Third, Jangsam for Yeongsanjae or Chukwon Gut has kept its religious specialty as a Pyoeui despite various modifications.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.133-143
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• 1978

This study is a latter series of 'A Study on the Changes of Court Dresses in the Yi Dynasty' (see Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 1. No. 2. 1977), and tries to discuss the additional clothing style--- Hapee(하피), Mal(말), Sang(상), Daedae(대대), Pesle(폐슬) and Seock(석) as well as how to obtain the textile fabric used in queens' wedding ceremony and Noeyoe(노의) and Jangsam(장삼). Through Karedogam(가예도감), it can be found that as queen's casual dress gold-round-pattern Noeyoe(금원문노의) was used, and the royal princesses wore Dan Noeyoe(단노의). Noeyoe was long in back and short in front and it was very luxurious with the two-phoenix pattern. Jangsam was queens' casual dress, and the royal princesses wore simple and double Jangsam. In public, the wives of the officials above the 5th-Class in status wore Jangsam; Noeyoe is a higher-class dress than Jangsam.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.57-65
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• 1984

This is to study some female court costumes, Jamgsam and Sooboro etc. (장삼, 수보노), which seem to had been used as ceremonial robes. There is no remaines, and only a little written materials can be used. The Kook-Chang-Dogam Eui Gues(국장도감의구) give us some know ledges on the shapes, materials, embroideries and the usages of them. After surveying the provisions of the Eui-Gues, Auther arrived at conclusions as follow; 1. Jangsam(장삼) set is the counterpart of the Myunbok(면복) set. 2. Sooboro(수보노), worn over the Sang(상), is short, divided into three parts from the middle of the length, and the peonies(목단) are embroidered at the bottom of the three parts. 3. Jangsam(장삼) is accompanied by susik(수식), which seems to be a kind of headband, and a pair of gloves(수의).

• 복식문화연구
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.77-91
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• 1994

The Korean Buddhism has been an effect on the Korean culture from the spipitual culture to the living culture. The Korean Buddhist costume, as an external form of the Buddhist culture, symbolizes the Buddhist ideas, the status difference of the general public, and keeps the traditional structure. The purpose of this study was to examine the monk's costume of Jokye sect and Taego sect among 47 sects,. In this study, it selected Jokye sect and Taego sect, because they are occupying important positions in the Korean Buddhism. The methods of this study depended on the documentary records, existing remains, the wearing clothing, the interviews with monks. In a changeful times, It is needed to study the actual condition of the Buddhist costume and keeps records about it. The results of this study may be stated as follows: The Buddhist costuem is composed of Chogori, Baji, Haengjon(leggins), Durumagi, Jangsam, kasa, hats, rubber shoes, Jori and Gelmang, etc. Chogori, Baji, Haengjon, Durumagi as the everyday dress are found in the Korean traditional costume. The forms and kinds of the everyday dress were the same between two sects, but the colors were different. Jangsam and kasa are the formal robe. In regard to Jangsam, two sects ere dressed in gray. But there were differences of design between two sects. Kasa was different in the forms, patterns, colors, and kinds according to the legal system of the monk and the sects.

• 복식
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• 제55권8호
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• pp.57-72
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• 2005

Mongdueui(蒙頭衣) and mongduri(蒙頭里) in the Joseon dynasty was one of women's robe. The style of Mongdueui was same as Chinese baeja(褙子 $\cdot$ vest) having non-overlapping front opening with collar, This form was conformed through the wonsam excavated baeja from tomb of South Song dynasty. The basic construction was same as Joseon dynasty's except the collar. In the early Joseon dynasty the noble women wore Jangsam(長衫) as an outer wear, the common and lower class women wore Mongdueui, and the queen and royal household we baeja. The court lady wore baeja as well as Mongdueui for funeral ceremony. The style of women's robes was classified into two categories by the literature Byungwajip(甁窩集). The first was the hongjangsam(紅長衫長) in red for noble women. The other was the mongduri for the common lady. Whangchosam the outer wear of Jeongjaeyong(呈才女伶), a professional women entertainer, having non-overlapping front opening with collar, has been examined in the painting. And it had been evolved into the shaman's clothing in the last stage of Joseon dynasty.

• 복식
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• 제50권3호
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• pp.5-12
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• 2000

Jaesuk-koli an important part of the 12 shamanistic rituals, is an accepted buddhist monk's costume. In this paper, the Jaesuk-kori costume and its meaning are studied. The ornaments of shaman's costume differe somewhat from region among individual shamans, but the symbolic meansing are fairly similar. The significance of Jaesuk-kori shaman's costume ar as followed ; First , a Buddhist monk's costume is accpted in the Jaesuk-kori ritual costume. Second, a shaman wears Jangsam (long-sleeved buddhist robe) and Kasa (surplice) in the Jaesuk-kori rituals. Third, the ornament of Sipjangsang objects search for earthly happiness while the rotus flower embroidered on the costume , depicts purity in the heaven world. Fourth, five colors in the Jaesuk-kori costume represented, Yin and Yang of universal harmony. Jesuk-kori ritual costumes signify that traditioal shamanism was accepted and absorbed into Buddhist rituals system.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제33권6호
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• pp.443-456
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• 2017

사명대사의 금란가사와 장삼은 역사적 인물의 유품이자 조선시대 불교 복식으로 1973년에 국가민속문화재 제29호로 지정되었다. 1984년 세척과 형태 유지를 위한 보존처리를 거쳐 표충사호국박물관에 보관되다가, 2013년 문화재청에서 실시한 정기조사 결과 재처리 필요성이 제기되었다. 금란가사는 본래 25조인데 두 조각으로 분리된 상태로 결실된 부분이 많고, 장삼 또한 깃의 일부가 남아있지 않아 원형 복원이 필요했다. 재처리 과정은 처리 전 조사, 세척, 보강직물 염색, 보강 및 복원, 훈증소독의 과정으로 진행되었다. 특히 새로운 보존처리 재료와 방법을 적용하여 손상되거나 결실된 부분을 보강, 복원하여 원형을 최대한 회복시키고자 하였다. 이번 보존처리는 보존처리의 가역성이라는 기본 원칙 하에 노후화된 보강 재료를 교체하고 발전된 방법을 적용한 직물 문화재의 재처리 사례에 대한 연구결과이다.

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.144-161
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• 2013

Seok, shoes worn for rituals that originated in China, is worn as part of a formal dress in Korea. The Seok for men were worn with Myeonbok(冕服: kingly ceremonial costume) and Wonyugwanbok(遠遊冠服) and the Seok for Jeokui(翟衣: queenly ceremonial costume) and Jangsam(長衫). Myeonbok, Wonyugwanbok, Jeokui and Jangsam were ceremonial costumes of ancient times. This paper examines Seok, which has never been the focal point of a study, and focuses on the period of Joseon(1392~1897). It was possible to concretely identify its changes in each of the periods and genders by means of the literature and picture data. It turns out from this paper that a unique Korean style emerged in the days of Kings Yeongjo(英祖: 1694~1776) and Sunjo(純祖: 1790~1834). The Seok that were imported from China after the Goryeo period included a neck part, which was a departure from its original form. However, during this period, fences were added on the top of the shoes, and rings were added to thread laces in Seok from China. Women wore their Seok in this period with different ornaments in accordance with the different situations.

• 복식
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• 제66권7호
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• pp.171-191
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• 2016

Lady Han, Gongshin-buin(恭愼夫人韓氏: 1410~1483) was Gongnyeo of Ming emperor and sister of Han Hwak(韓確:1400~1456). The aim of this study is to analyze the characteristic of costume presents for Lady Han, and to investigate a part of Joseon women's attire in the 15th century. Most of the presents for Lady Han were native products of Joseon to help alleviate her homsickness, but surviving relics are very rare. The costume-related presents included daily accessories and fabrics such as natural ornaments, embroidered pouch, needle case, wig, wooden comb, portable knife with multi-blades, various colored plain silk [綿紬] and ramie. Also, preceding research analysis of costume relic were combined with study of presents for Lady Han's. The most salient costume of Joseon women in the 15th century was the symmetric collared jacket. In addition, ornamented jeogori, pouch with pine nut stitch, chima, jangot, jangsam, black veil[羅兀] made with ra or jeung, glass beads, paintings of Ming and Joseon can be references. Illustrations show 6 representative type of Joseon women's full attires in the 15th century are as follows. First, is a combination of 'symmetric collared jacket with peacock rank badge, jeoksam, chima, underwear' and 'hoa-a, janga-a, embroidered pouch, needle case, knife with multi-blades: presents for Lady Han'. Second, formal wear focusing on symmetric collared Jacket of cloud pattern. Third, formal wear focusing on multicolor ornamented jeogori. Fourth, town wear with jangot and neoul. Fifth, formal wear with jangsam. Sixth, daily wear focusing on banbi with symmetric squre collar. Accessories and underwear shown in another illustration were same as the first illustration. Results of this study can be used as content for making historically accutate costumes as well as costume education.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.68-81
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• 1999

This paper makes a report of Shaman\`s ritual performed among Korean resiednts in Japan as socio-historical facts, and this also examines the symbolic meanings of Shamans\` costumes. The results are as follows ; 1) At the ritual of Jungsip-Wang Maji, Shamans wear Gwandae, Kunbok, Jangsam, Durumaki, and Chima-jugori. These costumes show that their wearers are priests and gods at the same time. 2) The reason why Simbang performs the ritual in different costumes at different Jaechas is that each object-god needs different costumes to represent its different character. 3) Shamans\` instruments consist of musical instruments and other instruments. Among the musical instruments are such percussions as Buk, Jing, Janggo and Sulsae. Among other insttruments are Sindo, Sanban and Yoryung. 4)Shamans think that the musical instruments have magic powers to drive out minor demons and invite gods. Sindo, Sanban and Yoryung are thought to be the symbolic instruments representing god\`s will.