• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.854-861
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• 2015

This study evaluates the objective and subjective hand as well as the preference for hand and outdoor jackets on laminated waterproof breathable fabrics with different constituent characteristics to identify those best suited for consumer needs. Mechanical properties and objective hands were measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand and the preference of laminated waterproof breathable fabric for outdoor jackets were rated by the 20's and 30's women experts with tactile and visual senses that utilized a questionnaire with a seven-point semantic differential scale; subsequently, the flexibility and compressive elasticity of laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were low. However, light and thin waterproof breathable fabrics with a smooth surface had high scores in smoothness, fullness & softness and total hand value. In addition, laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were classified into three hand factors: flexibility, density, and surface properties. There were significant differences on flexibility and surface property perceptions, hand and out-door jackets preferences according to the characteristics of waterproof breathable fabrics. The hand preference of the laminated waterproof breathable fabric improved with decreasing 2HB and increasing EM. However, EM showed positive effect for outdoor jacket preferences. Those that were flexible and smooth were preferred for outdoor jackets.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.135-146
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• 2012

This study aims to analyze the preference of jacket design, practical factors regarding jacket-wearing and purchasing behavior for korean baby- boom generation women. The results are as follows: 1. According to the outfit preference survey, the silhouette most preferred by female baby boomers is the "X-line Silhouette", "hip length", "slightly fitted and well fitted". The preferred jacket colors for different seasons were grey and beige for spring, white and light yellow for summer, khaki and brown for fall and black and dark grey for winter. 2. According to the survey on factors to consider when purchasing jackets, 52% indicated that they "almost never" or "occasionally" had their jackets repaired after purchasing them. When purchasing jackets, the highest expected effect of looking younger by wearing a jacket was "looking 4-5 years younger". 3. According to the survey on price demands, the average purchase price for jackets was 160,000~200,000 won (27.80%) followed by 210,000~350,000 won (25.64%) and a significant difference existed based on the purchasers' economic activities.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제40권6호
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• pp.185-195
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• 2002

This study was carried out to investigate the wearing silhouette of jackets according to the mechanical properties, primary hand value and total hand value of the 3 types of wool fabrics. Wool/PET(50/50), wool/PET(80/50) and wool(100%) fabrics were used as test specimens. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB system and primary hand value and total hand value were calculated by equation KN-203-LDY. We made three experimental jackets based on the precious jacket pattern and used Moir Photography to measure the amounts of space between the jacket clothes and body surface from the overlap cross section map. The results were as follows: 1) In mechanical properties, woo/PET(80/20) fabric showed higher bending and shear rigidity. 2) In evaluation of primary hand and total hand, wool 100% fabric showed higher NUMERI and FUKURAMI hand and total hand value. 3) From the reset of Moir Photography, the wearing shapes of the experimental jackets were influenced by the characteristics of fabrics. Except for the hip part, the garment ease of wool/PET(80/20) fabric was estimated more highly.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권4호
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• pp.133-144
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• 2006

The contemporary period is called "the age of sensibility" in which each individual consumer seeks to have her or his own products. Businesses are in need of design developments with an emphasis on customer sensitivity, and at the same time consumers must understand their own sensitivity to acquire information on designs that suit them. This research established a sensitivity and configuration database on designing men's jackets using the sensitivity engineering approach to clothing design information. The user interface was created on the Internet. Sixty-seven sensitivity terms of vocabulary appropriate for the assessment of men's jacket design were selected, and the different designs were classified into six items and 24 categories. Thirty men's jackets with different designs were produced for sensory testing and the results were analyzed in accordance with general linear I statistics. A sensitivity database was established for each category. My-sql, PHP, Java Script, and Html were used for the configuration database work. The configuration of items/categories, with the most appropriate sensitivity database information assigned to the selected sensitivity vocabulary, was programmed for display on the computer screen. The sensitivity vocabulary of a customer's choice for each factor was selected for the program to run, while the category and product configuration of the men's jacket most suitable for the search was displayed based on the user interface.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.178-197
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• 2008

Due to the inflow of the western culture since the 19th century, female skirts and jackets have been changed considerably in detail though their basic composition was maintained. The analysis on female jackets from the start of the modern period to 1960s has been undertaken with artefacts as well as reports and research dissertations related to them. For period appraisal, analysis was divided into several periods which are from 1890s to 1910s, and every 10 years afterwards. As a result, aspects for the appraisal in each period was found. Aspects for period appraisal in modern jackets can be a change in total length and side length, a change in shape of the sleeves (from straight to round), a change in width, and a difference in closed shape of the collars. Material and color can be another aspect which shows fashionable material or new materials (man-made textile or nylon) of each period, color combination of surface and lining material as well as other parts of the jacket, use of a stiffener made with net or sheer textiles. Research using books and archives is important for the appraisal of the garment artifact. However, most of all, one should have the attitude of examining the artifacts frequently in order to achieve deeper understanding and an eye for accurate appraisal.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.347-356
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the sizing system and size designation of ready-made jackets for women. We survey the sizing system and size labeling that have been used and presently practiced by the domestic garment industry of ready-made woman's jacket. In addition, 264 tailored jackets are measured for the sake of this study. The jackets are classified into 3 groups(young, missy, and madame) according to the target age of the brand. The result shows that size labeling involves body measurements(85-94-160), size code(55, 66) or simplified letter(S, M, L). However, the correspondence of size information and ease tolerances of jackets is not consistent and each company has its own sizing system. There are significant differences among young, missy, and madame group on the bust girth of apparel in 66size code. The average apparel size piteh measurement distributions(bust girth and hip girth respectively) of young group are 9cm and 13cm in 55 size code, those of missy group are 7 em and 3 cm in 66 size code, and those of madame group are 6cm and 4cm in 77 size code. The ease of bust girth and hip girth in missy group are much more than other groups.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.776-786
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• 2016

This study intends to suggest production process of circular knitted jackets and dimensional change data of finished clothes after washing. the study provides pattern design method of circular knitted jackets by applying dimensional change. By doing so, the purpose of this study is to increase production efficiency through accurate order in consideration of loss amount of the fabrics in production. With the three fabric materials selected, this study investigated dimensional change of circular knitted jackets after sewing and washing by varying the parts to be attached to padding cloth and with or without inner lining. As for the fabric F-C (including the spandex, thicker and weightier than the other two fabrics), front width shrunk by 4.6%, which showed the biggest shrinkage among the jackets made of test fabrics. Then it suggested design methods of circular knitted jacket patterns to which dimensional change is applied according to materials, and analyzed the amount of fabric required for production by comparison of the materials. When using the fabric F-C without inner lining, there is big dimensional change and more than double amount of fabric is required. It is expected that the research results will be a basic data for pattern design and production process of circular knitted clothing.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.194-206
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• 2016

This study analyzed jackets by Alexander McQueen that have always pleased customers with traditional tailoring via every season's collection. This study categorized and then analyzed jackets by components such as silhouette, jacket length, collar, lapel, sleeve, shoulder line, and closure methods. To achieve the research goal, the study referred to photographs of 501 jackets introduced in signature brand collections by Alexander McQueen between 1996 and 2010. The analysis results on McQueen's jackets with the general components of the clothes indicated that the frequency of traditional tailoring components (such as lapels, tight sleeves, natural shoulder lines, and a button closing method) was higher than the frequency of designs of dramatic, deconstructive patterns examined by previously-conducted research. This shows that Alexander McQueen was cognizant to the responsibilities as a tailor and the basics of tailoring when developing jacket designs. This study also confirmed how McQueen enjoyed adding exaggerated jacket design components by making various use of details that emphasize drastic shapes like the hourglass silhouette, wing collar (that covers the shoulders), peaked lapel collar, kimono sleeve, bell sleeve, crescent shoulder, and pagoda shoulder.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.71-84
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• 2009

For fit satisfaction evaluation, the subjects were asked to put on the jackets from the seven manufacturers in random order, view how the jackets fit in a full-body mirror and answer questions regarding fitting in 22 specific areas, including the neck, shoulders, waist, hips and arms, as well as eight questions related to maneuverability. The surveys and evaluations were conducted between October 2007 and November 2008, and the compiled data were analyzed using the SPSS 14.0 statistics program. The One-way analysis of variance was performed to comparatively analyze the differences among the products from the seven manufacturers. Post-hoc tests were performed based on Duncan's test for the criteria that displayed significant differences. The results were summarized as follows. Fit evaluations were performed for the size 88 formal jackets from the seven manufacturers. All items, except the center front line, displayed significant differences at p<0.05 or higher among the manufacturers. The age group 20-39 felt that the main problems were in the shoulder, armscye, upper arm, waist, abdomen and hip areas. Modifying the shoulder area, armscye depth and hip areas severely compromises the jacket's balance, and attention to these areas must be given developed pattern design.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2008

Men's outer wear, such as jackets and coats appeared since the 16th century. They have been changed from doublets, coats, justaucorps, tail-coats, frock coats and morning coats to contemporary men's suits. Since the early 17th century, sleeve patterns of men's outer jackets had been mostly two-pieces close fitted patterns. The purpose of this article is to compare sleeve patterns of various jackets, which appear in various historic costume books. Armhole measurements, sleeve head measurements, amounts of ease, armhole depths, armhole widths, crown heights, sleeve width and sleeve angle had been compared to find out the differences among patterns of different times and styles. Coming to the present, the difference between top sleeve and under sleeve became more obvious, and the sleeve angle became less curvy. Another interesting point is that there had been considerable amounts of ease, which is the difference between sleeve head measurements and corresponding armhole measurements. It is because the sleeve has been attached to the armhole not by seam but by string. It is believed that the present sleeves have more natural curve and shape compared to the past.