• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.37-52
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• 2011

The purpose of this thesis is to study how Physical Distortion has been developed on the fashion from a surrealistic point of view and how it could be contributed to development of clothing design. This body distortion phenomenon has been started from primitivism times and it is still going on with various ways. Each era's distortion has been changed due to social cultural and environment matters. Especially influences of surrealism on the 20th century art transcended the limit of thought. Since appearance of surrealism 21th century fashion design has been opened up for new possibilities. There are no stereotypes no boundaries and our society is getting increasingly diversified. People in those society is longing to have another esthetic requirements. Also surrealistic physical distortion in the contemporary fashion has been produced unique design with new technology and new material. Physical distortion in fashion possess an infinite possibilities that could concoct the most amazing clothes. Also it has another strong potential that conducting us the way to produce design in novel ways. There is no doubt that surrealistic physical distortion in the contemporary fashion is absolute necessity to continue on evolution of clothing design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.73-87
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• 2021

This study aimed to develop fashion designs by applying the PO (Provocative Operation) method as a 3D virtual clothing program and to derive the PO application method in fashion design. The first T-shirt design was presented as an existing thinking method, and the second design was developed by applying escape, reversal, exaggeration, distortion, and hopeful thinking techniques, which are techniques for 'provocation' of the PO method, to the first design. Thus, 18 T-shirt designs were developed as 3D virtual clothing, with 3 sets of 6 designs, including the 1st and 2nd designs. The method of using the 'provocation' techniques of the PO method in the development of fashion design derived from this was as follows. First, the 'escape' technique was designed in such a way that a part of the detail or structure was deleted, or a part of the structure or expression element of another item was applied. Second, the 'inversion' technique was expressed by inverting the position or shape of a detail or structure up, down, left, and right; fitting the structural detail or reversing the shape; or converting the structure and form. Third, the 'exaggeration' technique exaggerated the size, length, and volume of a structure's form or detail. Fourth, the 'distortion' technique was expressed as a distortion of lines or shapes or a visual distortion using the Trompe l'oeil technique. Fifth, the 'hopeful thinking' technique was developed and expressed from the idea of an hypothetical 'if' it was absurd, irrational, and unrealistic.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.15-25
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to promote the artistic value and formative aesthetic of clothes in daily life through a proposal of inventive fashion design by utilizing Depaysement of Surrealism, which visualizes a more realistically and more specifically than fact in illogical and unfamiliar situation, Focused on details of Korean traditional costume silhouette. The method of this study, the literature and existing researches related to Depaysement were analyzed through theoretical review for establish the expressive techniques of Depaysement expressed in contemporary fashion. Conclusions from this study are as follows: first, the expressive techniques of Depaysement are derived that are 'change of scale', 'change of materials', 'combination of heterogeneous objects', 'arrangement of object in a strange space', 'overlapped object', 'paradoxical image', 'variable awareness of boundary.' Second, expressive techniques of Depaysement present a new methodology which can express an irrational thinking, which is not controled by reason such as unconsciousness, dream, and fantasy etc, in a way that is easier and more realistic rather than thinking centered on an art which is ruled by consciousness. Third, unique and free-form fashion design, which destroys a general idea, was could develop by using abundant materials and composing items borrowed various silhouette for expressive the techniques of Depaysement. Forth, Through this study, the concept of Korean fashion design, that was limited by the standard form when we approach Korean fashion design as identity of social culture, ideology of reflection and expression, object of commercial expression, was could think outside of the box.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.2
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• pp.328-349
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• 2024

In the last decade, Korean culture has progressively facilitated the assimilation of appearance-related norms established by modern Korean society among young generations in Vietnam. Of note, Vietnamese consumers residing in Korea, under the influence of diverse sociocultural factors, are aligning themselves with an ideal standard of Korean beauty through cultural adaptation. This study explores how Vietnamese students internalize Korean beauty standards and the resultant negative behavioral reactions. We investigated the effects of sociocultural pressures (media, in-group, and out-group pressure) on risky appearance management and irrational purchase behavior by mediating sociocultural internalization toward appearance. We tested how the mechanism underlying these variables differs based on how long one has resided in Korea. A total of 213 female participants were surveyed online. The research model was tested using structural equation modeling through AMOS 22.0. The findings show that media and out-group pressure significantly increased sociocultural internalization, which led to consumer behavior in the form of risky appearance management and irrational purchases. The influence of internalization on consumption behavior was stronger for short-term residents of Korea. This study contributes to the literature on acculturation by investigating how foreign consumers accept the host country's ideal beauty standards.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.554-568
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• 2015

Technological change leads to a value shift in human society. Various cultural experiences through the digital paradigm influence the expression of fashion. This article considers fashion film as a new form for presenting fashion and explores the distinctiveness of expression in digital fashion film. For the methodology, a literature review was conducted to examine the concepts and features of digital fashion film and metareality. Empirical research was also performed by drawing from Nick Knight's digital films, "Sans Couture", "#asif", and "The Elegant Universe" and by specifically analyzing the classification of the themes, visuals, and auditory expression. The results are as follows. The proliferation of fashion film has accelerated in the internet environment. New media in the digital era allows images to become more realistic and variable through immaterial conversion. Metareality is the notion of a reality beyond existence. A metarealistic image maintains the metaphysical nature of an object and transcends empirical appearance. It possesses immaterial, transboundary, and multidimensional features, and the image is realized by digital technology. The expression analysis identifies the metareality expressed in contemporary fashion film appearing as atypical forms, irrational combinations, and the playfulness of motion. It shows a positive attitude, transcending the immaterial limit of reality toward fashion. This study indicates how fashion as products challenges the metaphysical transformation in the digital era. The exploration of metareality in digital fashion film promotes a wider perspective and understanding of the concept of fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.296-309
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• 2020

Carol Christian Poell is a designer famous for experimental designs and presentations. Poell's actions in the fashion-world resemble Fluxus, an anti-art group that started working in the 1950s. This study analyzed the works of Poell based on the characteristics of Fluxus and then compared the works of Poell with the performance of Nam June Paik, a Fluxus artist. We conducted literature studies and case studies. We examined the works of Poell and Paik based on the four characteristics of Fluxus: iconoclasm, unity of art and life, playfulness and chance. The results were as follows. First, they were engaged in anti-aesthetic works. While Paik concentrated on the content aspect of works, Poell was more focused on formal aspects. Second, neither of them distinguished between art and life. Paik achieved it by including audiences in his works; however, Poell attained it by adopting daily spaces as a place to display presentations and use ready-made forms. Third, they showed playfulness with a satirical nuance. Paik expressed it in an erotic way; however, Poell implied it through the irrational settings of circumstance. Finally, they created works by utilizing chance. Paik focused on auditory elements and the content aspects of works; however, Poell used the coincidence of visual and tactile elements when creating his works. This study compared the works of Poell with Paik and has its significance in its usefulness to understand designers with Fluxus characteristics in the fashion industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.91-107
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the experimental design by using deconstructive design and mobile design depicted on Hussein Chalayan' works. Hussein Chalayan, the Turkish-Cypriot who is based in London, says' Challenging is the best word for me'. And so word, 'radical' that has difficult connotations was chosen for this study It implies two menainigs for the word. The first thing is "extreme" - something that is drastic. And 'Applied to clothes', it can probably mean "experimental". He has iconoclastic ideas and his ramp shows are always high on concept, experimentation of art and utility. His approach to fashion derives from philosophical and intellectual theories of deconstruction and mobility, which he expresses through his designs. Deconstructionism, in fashion, rejects customary rules and breaks all conventions. It questions aesthetic norms about bodily proportions and the criteria of beauty, emphasizes the adding on, or discovery of, an irrational moment, and reveals the processes of tailoring in clothing. The shape and the construction of the garment is more important than the color. Cuts. tears, asymmetries, matching different materials are among the most evident features of the deconstructive design. And Chalayan performed the mobile design of transforming furniture into clothes. Chair covers became dresses. a coffee table became a skirt which were designed by Chalayan, with geometric and architectural references. Chalayan says he was inspired by the idea of refugees fleeing. Besides Chalayan uses clothing as an art to reinterpret and reform the human body in a continuous tour de force of body/identity conceptualism and dressmaking. He reflect the body's function in the cultural context of architecture, science, or nature - and then attempt to translate his findings into clothing.dings into clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.105-125
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• 1992

The research, aiming an automatic pattern design of Korean Costume by utilizing CAD system, tried Grading, Seaming and Marking with a theme of girl's color-strip blouse & skirt. The content & conclusion of the research can be outlined as follows; 1) As we reviewed the current situation of Korean costume which becomes more likely celebrational or festival costume, while the demand of it is getting increase, it's being dealt mostly as ready-made dresses with different qualities & designs. Especially childrens ready-made ones were highly demanded to be picked up as the theme. 2) For the original drawing of children's color-strip blouse & skirt, Kyung-Ja Park's drawing method was used here, and for the substitute of particular body parts absolute size, Joo-Won Lee's standard size chart from a size-study by ages. 3) To work with CAD system we had input master pattern, drawn for age 5 as basic size, then graded six step-sizes for 1-11 years old. For add-subtract of particular body parts size, we graded through computing the standard variation among items to get the pattern developed into ready-made standard size, we can make precise plotting by grading wanted size very rapidly if we correct the rule of changed items different from standard size to make utilization possible enough with easy order method of ready-made Korean Dress. 4) We produced Marker after attaching a margin to seam accordingly by parts for each pattern using P/D/S to mark, In mass gament-cutting, the loss of time and material can minimized. In this research the apparel CAD system which has been utilized and only be western fashion industry was introduced for the design of ready-made Korean costume and utilized it in Grading, Marking which are critical steps to improve productivity and have reported the result in the research. Thus we expect that less cost, improved productivity and better quality with minimized loss of material from marking as well as from prompt and precise size-drawing. Furthermore the utilization of CAD system is considered as an effective one in terms of the research & the development to remove effective one in terms of the research & the development to remove irrational elements in the design and production process of Korean costume as well as in terms of the study of Korean Costume development through creative works of Korean Costume.