• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.149-157
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• 2010

After observing various changed colors by some dyeing conditions in case of the Indio and Indigo Pulberata Levis, we had below result. 1. Best reduction temperature for Indigo was $50^{\circ}C$, and the reduction temperature had an effect on level dyeing and dye-uptake. For the Indigo Pulberata Levis, best reduction temperature was $60^{\circ}C$, and best reduction time for Indigo was 20 minutes, for the Indigo Pulberata Levis was 30~40 minutes. 2. Both Indigo and Indigo Pulberata Levis showed high K/S without using alkali, but it was almost not possible to be dyed without reduction agent. The best amount of potassium carbonate concentration and soldium hydrosulfite concentration was $2{\sim}3g/{\ell}$ and $2g/{\ell}$ each for dyeing. 3. The best dyeing temperature for Indigo was $30^{\circ}C$ and $60^{\circ}C$ for Indigo Pulberata Levis. 4. In case of Indigo, K/S increased slightly at $5g/{\ell}$ concentration. Thus, $5g/{\ell}$ is efficient amount. However, it needed $50g/{\ell}$ to increase K/S for Indigo Pulberata Levis. It tells that we need a lot of Indigo Pulberata Levis for dyeing dark color. 5. Indigo dyed cotton looked more greener than silk. Since silk absorbs lots of red color, it looked strong red color. However, Indigo Pulberata Levis looked greenish on both cotton and silk. 6. Since the hue's range of Munsell's value was PB for both Indigo and Indigo Puberata Levis, we are able to know that red color's indirubin is contained as well as blue color's indigo.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권4호
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• pp.540-556
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• 2014

This research investigated the effective conditions to dye cotton with commercial indigo leaf powder. We tested dyeing conditions of: pH of dyebath (6.5, 9-12), heating ($20^{\circ}C$, $50^{\circ}C$, $70^{\circ}C$, $90^{\circ}C$), ageing (0, 0.5, 1, 4, 24 hours), reduction time (0, 30, 60 min), and dyeing temperature ($2^{\circ}C$, $10^{\circ}C$, $20^{\circ}C$, $50^{\circ}C$, $70^{\circ}C$, $80^{\circ}C$), dyeing was conducted for 20 minutes. The highest K/S value was obtained when cotton was dyed using pH 11 dyebath, heated at $50^{\circ}C$ for 30 minutes, aged for 24 hours at room temperature ($20^{\circ}C$), reduction carried out for 30 minutes, and dyed at $50^{\circ}C$. It is proposed that the K/S value is primarily influenced by the dyebath pH and dyeing temperature, followed by the presence or absence of ageing time and reduction time. The color of cotton with high K/S values was B type by Munsell hue value, which was similar to the color obtained in previous studies by freshly made indigo leaf powder and indigo leaf juice. The results indicate that the dyeing conditions established in this research are suitable to maximize the dyeability of commercial indigo leaf powder and that the indigo leaf powder can be used as a substitute for fresh indigo leaf juice.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.263-268
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• 2011

One-step reduction/dyeing method was applied for ramie dyeing with natural indigo powder. The effect of reduction/dyeing conditions including the pH of bath, dye temperature and time, and concentration of indigo powder and reduction agent on dye uptake and color properties were investigated. Regardless of addition of alkali, the dyed fabrics appeared in the PB Munsell color range(${\lambda}_{max}$: 660 nm) and the dye uptake was much higher with no addition of sodium hydroxide. Dyeing was carried out through the use of only sodium hydrosulfite in the bath. The maximum dye uptake was obtained at 60 for 30min. Saturated dye uptake was obtained at 2 g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration up to 2 g/ L of indigo powder. Whereas, at higher indigo powder concentration (4 g/L), more than 3 g/L of reducing agent concentration was required for obtaining the saturated dye uptake. Color reproducibility was reliable with color difference in the range of 0.03~0.16. Regardless of color strength, fastness to rubbing was acceptable with a 3/4~4/5. Fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with low color strength were poor. Whereas, fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with high color strength were very good.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권3호
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• pp.508-517
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• 2010

One-step reduction/dyeing method was optimized for wool dyeing with natural indigo dye in this study. The effects of reduction/dyeing conditions including dye temperature and time, the pH of bath, concentration of dye, and reducing agent on dye uptake and color were investigated. The dye uptake was higher with no addition of alkali. Dyeing was carried out through the use of only sodium hydrosulfite in the bath. The maximum dye uptake was obtained at $60^{\circ}C$ for 30min and the dyed fabrics appeared in the PB Munsell color range. Dye uptake improved with the increase of a natural indigo dye concentration with the same sodium hydrosulfite concentration. At a higher dye uptake, the fabric color became more purplish and the maximum absorption shifted from 660nm to 620nm. Color reproducibility was reliable with a color difference in the range of 0.41~1.43. Regardless of color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastnesses were good with a 4/5 rating, and fastnesses to rubbing and light were acceptable with a 3/4~4 rating.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권5호
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• pp.753-767
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• 2019

Dyeing behavior of indigo leaf powder was examined in regards to the effect of the amount of pigments on color and dye adsorption for silk dyed by reduction and nonreduction dyeing. The amount of indigotin and indirubin pigments adsorbed in dyed silk was examined by HPLC-DAD analysis. The color of dyed silk showed 7.7BG - 2.7B hue when silk was dyed at $50^{\circ}C$, and 3.5G - 4.9BG when dyed at $70^{\circ}C$. Blue ($b^*$) and green ($a^*$) color decreased as the pH of dyebath increased. When silk was dyed using nonreduction, R (red) and RP (red purple) hue and R hue was more apparent in samples dyed at $90^{\circ}C$. In reduction dyeing, amount of indigotin detected from silk exceeded the amount that was initially contained in the input dye. The amount of indirubin was lower than indirubin that was initially in the powder. In nonreduction dyeing, silk showed a higher amount of indirubin adsorption compared to silk dyed by reduction. The amount of indigotin adsorbed in silk was lower than the amount initially contained in the input dye. The amount of indigotin and indirubin adsorption was primarily dependent upon the dyeing method-reduction or nonreduction along with dyeing temperature and the pH of dyebath.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.191-201
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• 2021

In this study, an eco-friendly indigo reduction system(scale up reduction, use of buffer solution, and pH control) using baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was applied for natural indigo(Polygonum tinctorium) dyeing of Hanji fabric and Hanji-mixture fabric(Hanji/Cotton, Hanji/Silk). The effect of concentration of baker's yeast, repeat dyeing, and bath reuse was investigated in terms of dye uptake indicating reduction power. And the oxidation-reduction potential(ORP) was monitored. We also evaluated color properties and colorfastness according to the color strength. The yeast concentration did not significantly affect the maximum reduction power. However, the highest yeast concentration was effective in improving the initial dye uptake, and its the reduction retention power was the most excellent. Even on the last reduction day, the effect of increasing the dye uptake by repeat dyeing was observed. And it was confirmed that the reduction bath could be reused for up to 30 days by supplementing yeast at the end of reduction. For all the fabrics used, deeper and darker PB color were obtained by repeat dyeing. As dyeing was repeated, purplish tint got stronger on the Hanji/Silk fabric compared to other fabrics. Regardless of the composition of Hanji fabrics and color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastness were relatively good with above rating 4-5, and fastness to rubbing and light were acceptable with a rating 3-4 ~ 4-5. The eco-friendly natural indigo dyeing process using niram and baker's yeast would offer global marketability and diversity of Hanji product as a sustainable high value-added material.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.101-109
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to investigate the characteristics of natural indigo dyeing of cotton fabric. Reduction and dyeing were carried out by one-step process using an infrared dyeing machine at the liquor ratio of 1:100, and subsequently oxidation and washing in water were followed. Dye uptake was increased with the increase of indigo concentration. Over the full range of dyeing tests, the dyeing condition was optimized to $40^{\circ}C$ for 40min. For most of dye concentrations, the cotton fabrics showed mainly PB color. Maximum K/S value was shown at 4g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration and the color strength increased with the increase of dye concentration. Value(lightness) decreased with the increase of dye uptake irrespective of mercerization or reduction method, while the mercerized cotton showed two times higher dye uptake than the untreated cotton. Whereas hue of the untreated cotton showed large decrease of P character(5.6~3.5 PB) with the increase of dye uptake, that of the mercerized cotton increased P character(4.7~5.5 PB). Irrespective of mercerization, value and chroma decreased with the increased of dye uptake. In addition, the untreated showed lower chroma than the mercerized cotton. In the case of traditional reduction, hue of the untreated cotton was changed very little with the increase of dye uptake. For hydrosulfite reduction, P character decreased with the increase of dye uptake. The difference of hue value was small with the change of reduction method(hydrosulfite reduction or traditional fermentation). Color character was not influenced by the changed maximum absorption wavelength. Washing fastness showed 4~4/5 shade change rating without any staining. And dry rubbing fastness was good at low color strength. The bacterial reduction ratios of dyed cotton fabric were also increased.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.249-257
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• 2019

Baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was used as a biocatalyst for eco-friendly indigo dyeing and the reducing power of yeast according to the alkaline solution type was compared. NaOH solution, lye, and buffer solution were used as alkaline solutions. The reducing power(K/S value, oxidation/reduction potential(ORP), pH) was monitored according to the elapsed time including the initiation of reduction, peak reduction, and the end of reduction. In all alkaline solutions, it was confirmed that yeast can be used reducing agent in indigo reduction dyeing. The pH stability and reducing power of buffer solution was better than that of NaOH alone. Although, pH and ORP stability of the reduction bath in lye were better than that of buffer solution, K/S value in buffer solution was higher compared to lye. The reducing power was different depending on the starting pH of the dye bath, and it was better when starting at pH 10.70 than at pH 11.30. Fastnesses to washing, rubbing, and light were relatively good with above rating 4. There was no significant difference in colorfastness depending on the type of alkaline solutions.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.237-241
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• 2014

The aim of this study is to develop an eco-friendly reduction process of indigo as an alternative choice. Hansenula misumaiensis was used and their reducing activity toward synthetic indigo as well as natural indigo was estimated by dyeing test in terms of indigo dye uptake. The changes in K/S value and pH were monitored on the time-based measurements. Also, reduction duration was evaluated. On the basis of the results described in this study, it was confirmed that Hansenula misumaiensis reduced indigo. Reducing power of Hansenula misumaiensis reached to maximum in two days. It can be possible to develop eco-friendly process of indigo reduction using Hansenula misumaiensis by the optimization of strain culture conditions and the optimization of reduction conditions.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권2호
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• pp.342-359
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• 2018

This research investigated the relationship between the amount of fixed pigment and the color of silk dyed with three types of fermented indigo powder dye under different temperatures and pH, by reduction or nonreduction method. Amount of fixed pigment was analyzed using the Ultimate 3000 HPLC-DAD instrument and the color of dyed silk was measured using the X-rite spectrocolorimeter. All silk samples dyed by reduction method showed PB color. The amount of indigotin fixation was dependent on the dyeing temperature and pH regardless of the indigotin composition in the dye. Indirubin was less dependent upon the dyeing condition in the reduction dyeing and its fixation was minimum level. Dyeing conditions which can maximize the indigotin fixation were $50^{\circ}C/pH$ 11 and $70^{\circ}C/pH$ 7 conditions in reduction dyeing. Color of silk showed more redness ($a^*$) thus higher PB color when the indigotin fixation was low and indirubin fixation was relatively high. Indirubin fixation was very low with slightly better fixation by nonreduction method. More reddish color was obtained by nonreduction dyeing, and by more alkaline dyebath.