Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.3.508

Natural Indigo Dyeing of Wool by the One Step Reduction/Dyeing Method  

Son, Kyung-Hee (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Chonnam National University/Human Ecology Research Institute, Chonnam National University)
Shin, Youn-Sook (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Chonnam National University/Human Ecology Research Institute, Chonnam National University)
Yoo, Dong-Il (School of Applied Chemical Engineering, Chonnam National University)
Publication Information
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles / v.34, no.3, 2010 , pp. 508-517 More about this Journal
Abstract
One-step reduction/dyeing method was optimized for wool dyeing with natural indigo dye in this study. The effects of reduction/dyeing conditions including dye temperature and time, the pH of bath, concentration of dye, and reducing agent on dye uptake and color were investigated. The dye uptake was higher with no addition of alkali. Dyeing was carried out through the use of only sodium hydrosulfite in the bath. The maximum dye uptake was obtained at $60^{\circ}C$ for 30min and the dyed fabrics appeared in the PB Munsell color range. Dye uptake improved with the increase of a natural indigo dye concentration with the same sodium hydrosulfite concentration. At a higher dye uptake, the fabric color became more purplish and the maximum absorption shifted from 660nm to 620nm. Color reproducibility was reliable with a color difference in the range of 0.41~1.43. Regardless of color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastnesses were good with a 4/5 rating, and fastnesses to rubbing and light were acceptable with a 3/4~4 rating.
Keywords
Natural indigo; Wool; Reduction/dyeing; Reproducibility; Colorfastness;
Citations & Related Records
Times Cited By KSCI : 7  (Citation Analysis)
연도 인용수 순위
1 신윤숙, 조아랑, 류동일. (2009). 포도당 환원을 이용한 천연 인디고 염색. 한국염색가공학회지, 21(3), 10--18.   과학기술학회마을
2 Trotman, E. R. (1975). Dyeing and chemical technology of textile fibers (5th ed.). London: Charles Griffin & Co. Ltd.
3 Dawson, T. L. (2008). It must be green: Meeting society's environmental concerns. Coloration Technology, 124,67-78.   DOI   ScienceOn
4 Komboonchoo, S., & Bechtold, T. (2009). Natural dyeing of wool and hair with indigo carmine (C.I. Natural Blue 2), a renewable resource based blue dye. Journal of Cleaner Production, 17, 1487-1493.   DOI   ScienceOn
5 Oswal. J. L., & Oswal, R. (2007b). U.S. Patent No. 0107144 AI. Washington, DC: U.S. Patent and Trademark Office.
6 Shin, Y., Son, K., & Yoo, D. I. (2008). Tencel dyeing by natural indigo prepared from dyer's knotweed. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 32(12), 1963-1970.   과학기술학회마을   DOI   ScienceOn
7 Weinstein, J., & Wyman, G M. (1956). Spectroscopic studies on dyes (I): The association of indigo dyes in the solid phase. Journal of the American Chemical Society, 78, 2387-2390.   DOI
8 Zou, P., & Koh, H. L. (2007). Determination of indican, isatin, indirobin and indigotin in lsatis indigotia by liquid chromatography/ electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry. Rapid Communications in Mass Spectrometry, 21, 1239-1246.   DOI   ScienceOn
9 Kunttou, K., Hongyo, S., Madea, S., & Mishima, K. (2005). Dyeing polyester fabrics with indigo. Textile Research Journal, 75(2), 149-153.   DOI   ScienceOn
10 Oswal. J. L., & Oswal, R. (2007a). W.O. Patent No. 000775. Geneva: World International Property Organization.
11 Sakagawa, T., Koshida, H., & Nakayama, T. (1991). Proposal for new application methods of indigo to dye fashionable and sensuous beauty (I). Senshoku Kogyo, 39, 210-220.
12 Bechtold, T., Mahmud-Ali, A., & Mussak, R. (2007). Natural dyes for textile dyeing: A comparison of methods to assess the quality of Canadian golden rod plant material. Dyes and Pigments, 75, 287-293.   DOI   ScienceOn
13 Cristea, D., & Vilarem, G. (2006). Improving light fastness of natural dyes on cotton yam. Dyes and Pigments, 70(3), 238-245.   DOI   ScienceOn
14 Fox, M. R. (1991). Indigo: Past and present. Textile Chemistry Colourist. 22(4), 13-15.
15 Kang, J. Y., & Ryu, H. S. (2001). Dyeability of saxon blue derivied from Polygonum tinctorium. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 25(10), 1763-1769.
16 주정아, 유효선. (2004). 천연 생쪽잎 추출액을 이용한 셀룰로오스계 섬유의 염색. 한국염색가공학회지, 16(5), 19 27.
17 AATCC International Technical Paper. (1989). Effect of dyebath pH on color yield in indigo dyeing of cotton denim yam. Textile Chemist and Colorist, 21(12),25-31.
18 정인모, 남성우, 김인희.(1998b). 쪽 색소에 의한 견섬유 염색에 관한 연구: 발효 염색에 대하여. 한국잠사학회지, 40(1), 78-85.
19 Blackburn, R. S., Bechtold, T., & John, P. (2009). The devel opment of indigo reduction methods and pre-reduced indigo products. Coloration Technology, 125, 193-207.   DOI   ScienceOn
20 정인모, 김인회, 남성우. (1998a). 쪽풀에서 추출한 인디고 색소의 구조 분석. 한국염색가공학회지, 10(3), 20-28.   과학기술학회마을
21 송성원, 조경래. (2008). 건조 쪽잎 추출액에 의한 면직물 염색. 한국염색가공학회지, 20(3), 19-24.
22 조경래. (2007). 규합총서에 나타난 전통염색법해설. 파주:한국학술정보(주).
23 정영진, 이명환, 최해욱, 이언필. (2000). 쪽풀로부터 제조한 고형쪽과 합성인디고의 염색성에 관한 연구. 한국염색가공학회지, 12(3), 16-24.   과학기술학회마을
24 정인모. (2000). 쪽 생잎즙액에 의한 견염색에 관한 연구. 한국잠사학회지, 42(1), 36-41.   과학기술학회마을
25 신윤숙, 손경희, 류동일. (2009b). 생쪽잎분말의 염색성 및 저장성 (II): 열풍 및 상온 건조방법. 한국염색가공학회지, 21(4), 23-32.
26 이연순, 정정숙, 이영희. (1997). 염색의 이론과 실제. 서울: 미진사.
27 이종남. (2004). 우리가 정말 알아야 할 천연염색. 서울:현암사.
28 박윤점, 윤재길, 장홍기, 허북구. (2005). 쪽 생즙액을 이용한 천연염색에서 염색조건이 견직물의 염색 특성에 미치는 영향. 한국자원식물학회지, 18(3), 417-423.
29 강지연, 유효선. (2001). 천연 쪽을 이용한 양모섬유의 염색 (I). 한국염색가공학회지, 13(4), 15-22.
30 신윤숙, 손경희, 류동일. (2009a). 생쪽잎분말의 염색성 및 저장성 (I): 동결건조방법. 한국염색가공학회지, 21(1), 10-- 20.   과학기술학회마을
31 김애순. (1995). 천연염료(쪽물)의 염색 특성 연구 (II): 쪽 생엽 추출액에 의한 면 및 견섬유의 염색성. 한국염색가공학회지, 7(4), 16-24.
32 김지희, 정관채. (2009). 전통에서 현대까지 자연염색공예. 서울:우용출판사.