• Title/Summary/Keyword: history of costumes

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A Study on the Classifications and Symbolic Meanings of Vietnamese Traditional Patterns

  • Anh, Pham Ho Mai;Lee, Yonn-Soon
    • International Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.9 no.1
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    • pp.29-40
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    • 2008
  • This study clarified the classifications of Vietnamese traditional patterns and analyzed the symbolic meanings that reflect the emotional and cultural background of the Vietnamese. The type and symbolism of Vietnamese traditional patterns were analyzed through research on the history of Vietnamese costumes, the history of Vietnamese arts, the history of Vietnamese traditional culture, and a Vietnamese museum survey. The results of this study were as follows: 1. Animal patterns are diverse and include dragons, unicorns, tortoises, phoenixes, cranes, lions, bats, tigers, and buffalo patterns. 2. Dragon patterns are the most utilized pattern for practical purposes. They are often used in royal costumes, Vietnamese traditional dresses, mandarin boots, bamboo fans, silk, satin, ceramics, and other detailed decorations. 3. The patterns symbolized fortune that meant good luck and longevity so people can live long and happy. Then the symbolic meanings of patterns were followed by prosperity, nobleness, apotropism, prolificacy, and wealth. 4. Since the most of animal patterns have symbolic meanings of fortune and longevity, animal patterns can be utilized as the source of traditional patterns of design inspiration for the development of Vietnamese modern patterns and the application on Vietnamese fashion products.

Designing Performance Costumes of Daily Dance Ganggangsullae for Elementary Students (초등학생을 위한 강강술래 국민생활댄스 공연복식 제안)

  • Cho, Du Na
    • Human Ecology Research
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    • v.53 no.1
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    • pp.81-92
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    • 2015
  • Daily dance Ganggangsullae is recommended for youth to help their diet, improve their team life and know Korean culture. Its performance costumes were fusion hanbok and casual wear shown at the Second Daily Dance Ganggangsullae Contest Conference of Myeongryang Battle Festival in 2013. A fusion hanbok shows the Korean traditional spirit, but it is not practical. Casual wear is practical, but it does not show any Korean identity. Therefore, their combination is needed to reflect the Korean identity and practicality. For this, a literature review and an online search were conducted for the history, purpose and dance motion of daily dance Ganggangsullae. And photographs of participating teams were gathered from Jeonnam Information & Culture Industry Promotion Agency. Goguryeo costumes were used for design motifs. Four designs were sets of T-shirts and pants for the summer. Style 1 is designed using sam, jikryeong, go, round and triangle pattern with rippled cotton. Colors were from Wang Huiji's mural painting. Style 2 is designed using dansuui, beonryeong, go, round and quadrangle patterns with rippled cotton. Colors were from a Deokheungri mural painting. Style 3 is designed using sam, round ryeong, go, quadrangle patterns, prints with cotton jersey and denim. Colors were from a Gamsinchong mural painting. Style 4 is designed using dansuui, jikryeong, go, a flame pattern, a bow and arrow shape with cotton, knit and jersey. Colors were from a Muyongchong mural painting. This study is helpful to anyone who wants to develop Korean-style performance costumes.

The Study on the Hollywood Film Costume of Fashion image in 1930s (1930년대 할리우드 영화의상의 패션이미지에 관한 연구)

  • Song, Young-Kyoung;Lim, Young-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.9
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    • pp.110-123
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    • 2007
  • This study is purposed to analyze the characteristics of different images of Hollywood movie costumes centering on the costumes of actresses who are the fashion leaders creating fashions especially focusing on those in 1930s. The scope of this study covers the movie costumes selected from the movies ranging from 1930 to 1939 centering on the Hollywood movies produced and released by large movie distributors and the movie costumes of heroins that exerted great influences on the culture and clothing history of 1930s were examined. As for the methods of study, visual data and image data including movies were collected through related dissertations, articles in journals, internet sites relating to movies and photos and we have analyzed each of the characteristics of the movie costumes appearing in each image. The result of this study is as follows. Firstly, ethnic images were the reflection of orientalism that was popular in the fashion of the age with the purpose of highlighting the exotic appearances of the actresses and were the cases where the characters of the actresses had to be expressed in ethnic styles due to the spatial backgrounds of movie works. Secondly, glamorous images were highlighting the appeals of plump breasts, shoulder lines and the bodies constricted in the middle and the Hollywood movie costumes in 1930s. The smooth and flowing silhouettes of the heroins of the age were mainly long and slim patterns and female's images were expressed by highlighting the beauty of leg lines or especially by halter neck evening dresses that exposed backs and covered breasts. Thirdly, mannish images reflected tough images of males in order to further highlight the reality of the characters of the heroins of the age pursuant to the emergence of the opinions advocating the equality between men and women.

A Comparative Study on Movie Costume for the "Dangerous Liaison" and "The Scandal" (영화 [위험한 관계]와 [스캔들-조선남녀상열지사]의 의상 비교 분석연구)

  • Kim Hyun-Jung;Yang Chieu-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.55 no.4 s.94
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    • pp.107-123
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    • 2005
  • In this thesis, I tried to compare and analyze the characteristics of the costume worn by leading figures of French movie 'Dangerous Liaison' and Korean movie 'The Scandal'. I compared the costumes they wear with the costumes of 18th century Fran[e and also tried to analyze how the costumes represent the psychological status of the persons in the movie. Since these two movies are based on the same original novel, the major figure's characters, socio-economic status and the situations they faced are similar but the physical background are very different, that is Fran[e and Korea. The analysis of the costume worn by similar characters in the two movies show differences due to the intention of tile producer's. The costumes used in Scandal shows much more use of varied colors to represent the characters of the major roles while Dangerous Liaison more faithfully follows the evidences of the costume used in the period in France. As seen from the result of this analysis, we can deduce that the costumes used in the movie not only have the simple role of clothes but also itforms the image of the figure in the movie representing the social and economic status of the person who wears them. Because of these demands, the designer should posses profound knowledge of history of the costumes of the period as well as the creativity to harmonize them with the atmosphere that the movie intend to appeal.

A Study on the Costumes of Superhero in the Movie 'Watchmen' (영화 '왓치맨(Watchmen)'에 나타난 슈퍼히어로 의상 분석)

  • Kim, Seung-Ah;Ko, Hyun-Zin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.5
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    • pp.151-166
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    • 2013
  • In order to create a national myth and be able to control international society, America with her short national history, used popular culture to accomplish these goals. The medium fit this purpose the best was the use of superhero characters based on comics. Born and developed from the 1930s through the 1960s, which could be seen as America's national crisis era, superhero characters were thorough advocates of American justice and was perfect for the role of spreading the legitimacy of American ideology. From the 1970s, superhero characters became part of movies and became even more influential through the Hollywood's massive film industry and the box office success. American ideology in superhero characters symbolically appeared in movie costumes. Starting with Superman and Batman, the very first and typical superhero characters' costumes work as metaphors for realization of American justice. After the 1980s, superheroes were newly developed through a genre called graphic novel and the most representative piece of this genre is Alan Moore's Watchmen. In the Watchmen, which was also turn into a movie in 2009, six changed superhero characters appear ranging from a non-human superhero, villain superhero, superhero with mental disorder and superhero with sexual impotency, the characters were never-seen-before superheroes with different aspects that connote introspection and philosophical ideology. The changed type of heroes and ideology became another form of heroes, and this brought changes to character costumes that were never considered before. The superhero costumes that used to symbolize America now express different types of superhero by borrowing exotic mythical elements, undressing, pastiche and daily life clothes. The superhero characters and their changes in costumes from Watchmen imply American popular culture's introspective tendency. Amongst these changes, we need to raise our critical vision towards popular culture.

A Study on the Contemplation and Design Development of Doll's Costume (인형의상의 문화적 고찰과 디자인 개발 연구)

  • Lee Young-Sun;Choy Hyon-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.5 s.104
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    • pp.44-58
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    • 2006
  • Dolls which were recognized as children's toys are recently also recognized as one of the cultural products of adult's hobby. Thus this research is about dolls' fashion and the possibility of their industrial expansion. Moreover, the object of the research is to develop and manufacture high quality fashion doll products in Korea which are mostly imported from foreign countries. The research studied the origin and the path of the development of fashion dolls with the history of clothing and special books for dolls. By organizing the character and the fashion of dolls' costumes, the research has a meaning for not only to make an academic approach of dolls' costumes which was insufficient in Korea but also to provide useful information to toy enterprises. The conclusion of this research is as followed. First, dolls have a lot of possibilities to be developed as a high value added cultural product industry by emerging from their children's toy image. Second, since costumes of dolls also have a trend, it is necessary to develop products with the trend to satisfy customer's willing. Third, organization of both the books about the dolls' costumes and the information for their DIY is urgently needed for the domestic fashion doll manias. Forth, the necessity to scheme the expansion of fancy industry has been raise by using dolls' characterization and fashion. Fifth, the researcher who has researched the above necessities has manufactured 8 pieces of dolls' costumes and provided the actual solutions to the each point of the discussions. In sum, I suggest expanding the scope of both research subject and product manufacturing of the research results and also recommend for further researches to develop the products which consumers want.

Fashion design applying to features of the Chinese minorities Naxi costume and seven star sheepskin cape (중국 소수민족 나시(納西)족 복식과 치싱양피 케이프의 특성을 활용한 패션 디자인)

  • Wang, Sha;Liu, Huan;Lee, Younhee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.30 no.3
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    • pp.331-347
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    • 2022
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate historical and geographical environments in the development of the Naxi costumes of Chinese ethnic minorities and their characteristics-including religious cultures and totem worship-and to suggest the direction of fashion design toward the modernization of traditional costumes. The research methodology involved the collection of materials and investigatation into the history, culture, and characteristics of Naxi costumes; in particular, the "seven-star" sheepskin cape, one of the Naxi people's important ethnic costumes as demonstrated by the women's clothing that has been designed in reflection of this traditional costume. The results are as follows. First, Naxi costumes are found to have overall coherence and distinct locality when retained in the process of modernizing the traditional costume. The theme of this work is titled "By the Light of the Moon and the Stars," which is expressed in contemporary fashion by the use of grey and dark red against a background of black, a color preferred by the Naxi people. Second, the Naxi people's seven-star sheepskin cape is a symbol of women's clothing with its characteristic patterns, shapes, and colors, and it is subject to creative modernization while retaining its unique ethnic characteristics. Third, the work expresses the contemporary stylishness of the costume while maintaining the customary decorative accessories from the Naxi people's traditional culture.

The Images of Chinese Traditional Colors and Cultural Preferences -Focus on the Movie Costumes of -

  • Kim, Young-Sam;Jun, Yuh-Sun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.34 no.12
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    • pp.2006-2021
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    • 2010
  • An authentic national spirit in media (particularly films), traditional images, and color preferences is expressed through movies that are melted in local traditions. This study suggests a direction regarding the characteristics for historical costumes by examining traditional color images and cultural preference in the Chinese film (1987), a representative film that deals with Chinese history and traditions. This movie can illustrate the correlation between the temporal backgrounds and the costumes in the movie with the criteria of Eastern color systems. The results of this research are summarized as follows. First, the image of Chinese traditional colors represented in many parts of and the cultural preferences that underlies their works through the expression of traditional colors. The scenes of traditional costumes and colors express the visual embodiments of the costumes that reflect a specific status, ceremony, or ritual. Second, the traditional colors used in the movie are based on the Yin-Yang theory. Particularly, Red, Yellow, Black is mostly used for ordinary clothing. Third, there are some differences in the use of color arrangements, that change regarding the use of traditional colors according to images and situations that follow the intention of the director. Planning the color arrangements is considered an engaging connectivity between traditions and images in the movie and it is extended or reduced based on cultural preferences. Fourth, the increase and decrease of color arrangements is distinctively represented as the story of the movie proceeds.

The Characteristics of Croatia Folk Costumes by Regional Groups (크로아티아 민속복식의 지역적 특성)

  • Cho, Woo-Hyun;Lee, Ho-Jung
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.8 no.3
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    • pp.59-71
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    • 2006
  • This study contemplates Croatian traditional costumes with focus on its geographical characteristics and acculturation with neighbor countries as a member of old Yugoslavian Union. Therefore, it contains the information from field works based on Croatian language, native costumes and folk materials wildly. Men usually wear wide linen pants ($ga\'{c}$), shirt ($ko\v{s}ulje,\;rnbina)$, vest (lajbek), hat and jacket ($kro\v{z}et$). Also they sometimes wear scarves or aprons. Women put on blouse, long skirt, apron, headgear with various decoration and scarf ($pe\v{c}a$), shawl (tibetui robe) or necklace together. Croatian folk dresses fall into three different styles by provinces, such as Pannonia, Dinar and Adria, according to the basic environmental and racial characteristics of each province. People of Pannonia plain generally wear white linen clothing and often use flounce and lace, which are influenced by Serbia and Hungary. In the Dinar mountain province, aprons with tassel, knitted vests made of leather and fur are very popular. The clothing of Dinar province has much commonness with those of Bosnia - Herzegovina and Montenegro which have metal buttons and belts. And the clothing of Adria coast is influenced by Italy a lot. There are many splendid silk clothes in its folk dress code. As mentioned above, there are a lot of foreign influences in Croatian history. Although there were severe cultural invasions in many times through its history, Croatians didn't just surrender to these cultural influences. People in Croatia comply with these new coming culture and reconcile these into their own tradition and dress code in their own way.

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A Study on the Color Sensation and Symbolism of Tibet Costume (티베트 복식의 색채 감성과 의미 탐색)

  • Wang, Cong;Kim, Jisu;Na, Youngjoo
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.21 no.3
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    • pp.115-128
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    • 2018
  • Tibetans who live in the Tibetan highlands, the Roof of the World, have their own unique lifestyle wherein they conform to its long history, natural environment, and their own form of clothing culture. In their costumes, the use of colors, patterns and designs express religious meaning and represent the hopes and heart of life, which respects nature. This study aims to analyze the colors used in Tibetan costumes and examine the meaning of these colors. In addition, this study intends to understand the specificity of Tibetan culture through a consideration of the symbolism of the colors of ethnic costumes. By examining the literature and conducting case studies, colors of Tibetan costumes were analyzed through the I.R.I HUE-TONE system. We analyzed 96 photographs of the costumes photographed during the Tibet ceremony costume, photographs seen at the Qinghai Tibet Culture Museum and photographs from the Internet museum. The results revealed the following: First, the most important element of the costumes is connected to the five colors of JangOsaek, which gives meaning to each color. Red, navy blue, yellow, white and green symbolize fire, the sky, earth, clouds or snow, and grasslands, respectively. Second, Tibetan costumes are characterized by bold color contrasts such as red and green, black and white, red and yellow, and yellow and purple to achieve an intense harmony of colors. Third, these fancy costumes express the unique aesthetics of the Tibetan people. The primary colors follow general emotions, but they can also include their own emotion.