• 복식
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• 제13권
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• pp.73-79
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• 1989

During nineteenth century, there broke out a great revolution in the history of girl's costume and with new condition toward girls. 1. Girl's costume followed their mother's attitude of the era and it was influenced by mother's costume. 2. Girl's costume was closely related with politics, economy, society culture and thought of the era. 3. Rousseau's Englightment made a revolution on girl's costume and it was direct revolution which affected on the French Revolution and the independence America. 4. Development of textile industry by industrial revolution brought on a change in raw material, quality, and quantity of textile, more gave a variety to raw material and ornament of girl's costume. 5. The invention of Sewing machine made it possible ready made production of girl's costume.

• 복식
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• 제8권
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• pp.15-27
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• 1984

A costume study is a part of the cultural history and also has the greatest relation to life's senses as a concrete culture. Korean costume that consists a double structure with Chinese one through Chosun Dynasty five hundred years, has recently changed up to the Western Form. In this respect Korean Costume has a important meaning in relation to Western costume. Traditional costume, generally speaking, has tendency to keep up by the common people than the higher classes. Then there were four classes. They are aristocratic classes common people, those who are engaged in the form, industry, trade and low classes. Merchant of them partially took charge of the cultural exchange about contacting with tradition and new one. Because it's easy to flow in one's character the new civilization. So there is an important significance to research of the merchant's costume in Gae Hwa Gi changing age of civilization in politics, economic, and social system. The records appeared about the merchant's costume in the age of civilization through literature study and natural photo at that time.

• 복식
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• 제31권
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• pp.237-249
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• 1997

Anak No. 3. the largest tomb that has ever been unearthed in Korea bears a significant meaning in the study of tomb and other re-lated subjects because it represents a specific era in history. The clothing on murals of Anak No 3. among other things provides a great deal of materials for the study on the history of clothing. We have discussed the male clothing on the murals dividing it into various categories such as official Kwan Mo, Po, Yu, Go, Dae Shin, etc. The clothing displayed a strong Chinese influence but at the same time also contained some elements of the Koguryo era. This fact shows the combination of the two cultures. There are two theories over whose tomb Anak No. 3 is "King's tomb" theory and "Dong Su" theory. Based on the result of examination of the tomb through the clothing "Dong Su" theory is considere to logical. The clothing on the murals can be regarded as Korean even if the tomb is that of a Chinese because that person is a part of the history of Koguryo.art of the history of Koguryo.

• 복식
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• 제34권
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• pp.151-168
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• 1997

Pi was worn like a shawl or scarf in Western costume In a broad sense it means a skirt a towel a vest and a shawl However the subject of this study has limited a naarrow sense a long shawl Historically it appeared since Jin to Chung dynasty and had various names according to each dynasty Also Pi was changed its shape colour pat-terns and details with various names. Therefore the purpose of the study is to ana-lyze the formative characteristics of pi includ-ing how to wear it through Chinese history.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.654-666
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• 1999

Korean Costume has long history and functional aesthetic value compared with the traditional costume of other contries. But nowadays korean Costume is becoming more and more distant from the people in the world wide current. To domiciliate and spread out the Practical Korean Costume which the goverment selected as CI symbol representing Korean culture in the trend of times. We investigated and analysed systemically the consciousness of customers and the details of design. This study consist of theoritical study and positive study. Theoritical study has the esthetic characteristic(structure characteristics formative characteristic and the characteristic of color) As the conciousness of people change in modern life which everything change in high speed the esthetic characteristics of Korean Costume have changed in structure.

• 복식
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• 제51권2호
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• pp.65-78
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• 2001

The costume history of Koryo Dynasty is well-known as having many undiscovered area. This is because there are only few records in that times. Futhermore the previous studies only quote the records such like "Koryosa" and "Koryodokyung", and their investigations are restricted. This paper quotes all kinds of literature which can show the costume of Koryo Dynasty. First it collects all the terms of the costume in the literature and classified them by those properties. Also, this study shows the characteristics of the costume in the Koryo Dynasty by reanalying the terms. This study is restricted on the costume of everyday wear.

• 복식
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• 제52권3호
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• pp.49-60
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• 2002

This study is to study the peculiar world of work that endeavored the stage setting and costume production in Ballet-russe centered around one of 20th representative artist Pablo Picasso and Diaghilev. Picasso worked four pieces ballets such as parade, Le Tricorne, Puchnella, and Le train bleu with Diaghilev. The originality of costume was well represented without losing the whole work's sense of unity. and designed foreasy movement as well as visual effect. As cubic is most common in parade especially, cubic stave costume were introduced at dancing costume of Paris manager and New York manager flrst time in Ballet's history. Picasso used the Cubism for dancer's beautiful appearance and primary color and decoration for oriental feeling. Picasso pursued the beauty and action at the same tome, and tried to represent the stage setting, impersonation and costume towards units, so the Importance of his work has still been referring.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.85-98
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• 2009

The modern trend in costumes, influenced by postmodernism, is to use of various patterns and images borrowed from diverse cultures of many ethnic groups. The Yo tribe studied in this paper is miner ethnic group in China, whose traditional costume is very splendid and modern. In addition, its embroidery pattern has a high artistic value in that its shapes are diverse and splendid and each one has its own peculiar elegance. As for the research method, I examined the Yo tribe's history, culture, traditional costumes and design patterns through related books, research papers, internet sites, and etc. The results of the paper are as follows. The Yo tribe's costumes consist of a jacket, trousers or a skirt, an apron and a belt. Although the color of the costumes is all black, there are splendid embroidery decorations with the colors of red, orange, yellow, green and white on the chest or shoulder part of a jacket, the adjusting lines, cuffs, or a part of a trousers and aprons. The types of the patterns represented in the Yo tribe's traditional costumes are related to nature, ancestor worship, ethnic legends, history, religion, and agricultural lives. The method by which the Yo tribe expressed on their costumes is a "peach-blossom" technique, which uses cross-shaped embroidery with wrap and woof threads. Because it is not apt to express delicate and detailed patterns, the Yo tribe's patterns tend to show abstract and geometrical forms.

• 복식
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• 제24권
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• pp.121-142
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• 1995

The Expressionism took shape in the early twentieth century, so called as the time of change and innovation which intermediated between the time of extreme prosperity and peace and the time of disruption. This study is based on the wide sense of Expressionism out of various concepts of Expressionism. The afore-mentioned phenomenon was emphasized all the more in the French Expressionism and it is the most important and substantial object in the Art to make a direct transference of emotion , feeling and thought and it could be regarded as one of characteristics of the French Expressionism . In Addition, the Expressionism produced " Aesthetics on Ugliness "Aesthetics des H lichen )" in creating work of art. It was an expression of the Existentialism based on Humanism for modern people who lived at time of nihility and such artistic movement accepted polarity and ambivalance concepts claimed by Nietzsche into three specific fields in accordance with thought and technique in the work of art and those are the Intuitional Expressionism. Cubistic Expressionism and Fantastic Expressionism. This study makes a close analysis of costume style trends on the basis of the categorized Expressionism enumerated as above. The characteristics of Intuitional Expressionism is that poverty and a sense of alienation dominated all society and thus the social reality brought a trend of social participation . This social reality effected significantly modern costume style and a reformative costume turned up at last . This reformative costume was classified into Gar onne look, Military look and Lingerie look by characteristics of style in order to make a close examination for the relationship between social reality and the reformative structure. Cubistic Expressionism effected costume forming and changed costume style through " Deformation " and " Distortion" in forming technique , and also it has developed geometrical style of costume, which could be symbolized by mechanism. And on the other hand, this Cubistic Expressionism has emphasized exaggerated expression ability to produce rigid and stiff style of costume. Fantastic Expression pursued basic artistic worth from the primitive and ethnic customs and accepted fantastic oriental Exoticism . This Fantastic Expressionism effected costume style of twentieh century and such designers as Lon Bakst, Paul Poiret, Elsa Schiapareli adopted intentive primary color. It also applied " Depaysment" to modern costume style , which introduced avant-garde design to give an impact through destruction of the existing traditional concept. This study also analized seven major representative costume designers of the early twentieth century. They are L on Bakst, Paul Poiret, Madeline Vionnet, JeanPatou, Gabriel Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. These designers deployed creative costume design work with peculiar expression technique based on the French expressionism. The costume study related to art history was so far made mostly to approach costume forming but only a few study is found to have approached idealistic background of art history in connection with creating costume. From that point of view, it is profoundly significant for this study to analize idealistic background and characteristics of Expressionism and relationship between costume and expressionism and to examine modern costume of twntieth century in conjunction with technical characteristics and spiritual sense of Expresionism.eristics and spiritual sense of Expresionism.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.98-109
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to present the case of class operation by paralleling a general instructor's lecture class and a IC-PBL class in a fashion design major course and comparing the educational effects. The teaching model of this study was designed to improve the ability to use the knowledge gained in accordance with the needs of the industrial field and to develop an independent learning ability. It will provide meaningful data. This study measured and considered the qualitative items of self-efficacy and changes in class perception through interviews and questionnaires completed by the learners after experiencing each general class and IC-PBL class. The results of this study are, first, that in the History of Fashion and Costume class, the general teaching method and the IC-PBL teaching method were applied in parallel to design a class, and a method case was presented. Second, as a result of comparing the educational effects of the two teaching methods through a student questionnaire, IC-PBL was more effective in improving learning attitude, learning achievement and self-efficacy. In addition, after the IC-PBL class on History of Fashion and Costume, the students' negative perception of team activities improved, and the students' cooperative ability and creativity improved.