• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제1권
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• pp.43-55
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• 2001

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.113-136
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• 2000

Problems and improvemental measures for the historical inquiry of TV drama costumes and for the reproduction of them were investigated. For this study, the MBC historical drama 'The way of the Great King' started on march 24 in 1998 and ended on september 26 in 1998 was selected as the subject. The reasons why the drama was selected are as follows. First, the historical background was the time of King Young ＆ drama introduced various kinds of costumes Joungjo, which is the starting era of traditional costumes peculiar to Korea. Second, the based on the historical inquiry of that time. There is a limitation in the process of historical inquiry about the costumes of that time because we don't have enough research data such as relics, remains, references, literary works, pictures, etc. Although, in some cases, exact historical inquiry about the costumes were made, they could not be reproduced in the original forms due to several reasons: the absence of the materials of that time, structural changes including length and size for convenience of action, alterations of the manufacturing method for the reuse, addition of the gorgeous and various olors for the enhancement of image quality, variations in colors according to the actor's character, modulations of the structures and colors by the producer's intention, and the restraints in time and money for manufacturing. In view of these situations, it seems to be difficult for us to settle the problems occurring between the historical inquiry about the traditional costumes and the reproduction of them in drama. However, the costumes presented in historical drama have the meanings to provide informations of that time with TV audience. Therefore I think that it is necessary to narrow the gap between the historical inquiry of TV drama costumes and for the reproduction of hem, First, It should be restrained that each broadcasting stations show the costumes under the similar situations of the same age in different ways. Second, We need to unify the inquiry systems concerning historical drama costumes, In addition to this, it is also necessary for broadcasting stations to establish internet sites of traditional costumes for communication.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.213-228
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to defined the conception and characteristics of Post-Modernism and dealt with how they are expressed in costume. Major characteristics of Post-Modernism are Historicism, Pluralism, and Eclecticism and these are reflected in the costume. 1. Historicism of Post-Modernism is a trend recreate artistic symbolism which Modernism lacked in reference to historical factors of the past. It has been as a trend of restoration and an ornamental trend can be included in the category of historicism in that it restored historical ornaments. 2. Pluralism of Post-Modernism means an open-hearted attitude toward everything. In costume, it has been expressed as a trend of mixed fashion style such as ecology, street fashion and futurism, collapse and mix of genres, diversity of materials and emphasis on texture caused by assemblage, change of the use to escape from the conventional system and avant-garde. 3. Eclecticism of Post-Modernism is expressed as a blended fashion style based on the principal of de-dualism. It has several trends ; exotic trend by mixing both oriental and western culters, androgyny which is a mixed image of an and woman, and a trend to use many kinds of materials together influenced by collage which is an eclectic mode.

• 복식
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• 제23권
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• pp.79-97
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to survey of Korean costume cultural assets in overseas museum collections. Cultural Assets represent the cultural heritage. Also costume is one of cultural assets. In 1980's the Korean government and scholars surveyed Korean cultural assets. One of their finding was that Korean objects exists some countries. Unesco delared that cultural assets illegally taken a way to foreign countries should be returned to their nations. However, few objects had been returned to korea. Today museum professional designing their exhibited and collections try to both enlighten experts and instruct and please amateur enthusiasts. Exhibitions are one of the most effective means of stimulating interest in cultural objects and ideas : they reflect prevailing cultural , intellectural and political trends. The 1893 Chicageo Exposition was the first international exhibition in which Korea has ever taken part. Overseas museum held many Asian exhibitions however Korean exhibitions have been held much less frequently than those of most other Asian countries. (China, and Japan). Some of Korean art Collection have historical and artistic valuable , most overseas museum' collection are of low value and non-informative . Several museums in United States that have Korean costume : some of these museums have highly valuable historical and contextural objects. It is my hope that the information in this paper will be of use for those interested in learning more about Korean culture.

• 복식
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• 제61권2호
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• pp.32-46
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• 2011

The study researched the characteristic of helmet and armor reflecting Joseon Dynasty by focusing on the helmet and armor appearing in dramas, the Tear of Dragon and King Sejong, whose common point is the historical background, the early Joseon Dynasty, among the historical dramas, which are manufactured on the basis of historical person or age. First, the helmet and armor appearing in historical drama was reproduced on the basis of historical record depending on age. In the early Joseon Dynasty, helmet was classified into cheomju and wonju and armor was classified into chalgap, swaejagap, gyeongbeongap, dujeonggap and dudumigap. In drama, the Tear of Dragon and King Sejong, for helmet, cheomju and wonju were used and for armor, chalgap, dujeonggap and dudumigap, whose type and manufacture method were similar to that of historical record, were reproduced. Second, the helmet and armor appearing in historical drama searched for function. In drama, the Tear of Dragon, rather than heavy iron, plastic and textile were used and the metal scale inside armor was removed. In drama, King Sejong, the weight of armor was decreased by removing the metal scale inside armor and easy wearing was secured by using velcro. Third, the helmet and armor appearing in historical drama expressed various dramatic interpretations. In drama, the Tear of Dragon, the same color as that of armor was adopted for helmet to provide stable and unified feeling. Visually splendid display was added to armor by matching powerful prime color and glossy metal. In drama, King Sejong, modem sense was added to helmet and armor by actively using pastel color reflecting modem fashion.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.13-26
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to identify the origin of diversity of costume material caused by environmental difference. For this purpose, this research involved theoretical studies and studies based on historical data obtained from previous related studies. The common truth was proved that environmental including the geographical distribution of plants and animals determines costume material. Also, It was found that the unique traditional costume styles were developed through unique combination of costume material and their culture. The major results of this study are as follow : 1. The traditional costume of North American Indian was well-developed and closely related to geographical distribution of plants and animals. Also, their costume was so diverse that it could not be categorized. 2. The traditional costume of North American Indian showed ideal har mony between nature and human being surrounding environment into their costume. 3. The application of plants and animal materials into their costume was one of the environment-friendly human activity and it seems to give us an important message.

• 복식
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• 제59권5호
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• pp.101-114
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• 2009

In recent times Fusion Historic Soap Operas have been produced and highly rated in Showtime. They have encouraged more creative costume designs for historic soap operas, as it is difficult to re-create costumes of the era in which the soap opera is set, knowledge of which is scant or even non-existent. These more creative and innovative costumes appeal to young modern audience in a way which the more classical setting did not. This study aims to study styling of combat uniforms in two Fusion Historic Soap Operas- "Zumong" and "Taewangsasingi" and to introduce new styling for future use. Those combat uniforms in two fusion historic soap operas were reproduced by modern imaginations and fantasies, rather than historical researches. Also the new design has applied unique styling for each character and enhances characters in those soap operas. This study focuses on combat uniforms of main male characters, but it can be suggestible that following researches will study in a variety of costume design stylings and characters in future historical soap operas.

• 복식
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• 제63권8호
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• pp.188-208
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• 2013

This study aims to find out factors of historical specialty and cultural ethnicity that influenced the formation of Spanish fashion as well as examine the characteristics of Spanish fashion by comparing its historical costumes, such as folk costume and court costume with contemporary fashion of major Spanish designers in the 20th century. Documental investigation and analysis of visual materials were used as research method. The study results are as follows: The major factors that affected the characteristics of Spanish fashion in the history include the geographical features, invasion of foreign nations, cultural heritage of various ethnic groups, strengthening of the national power, advancement of international trading through the newly developed routes, and influence of religions such as Christianity, Islam, and Judaism. Featuring the coexistence of variety and heterogeneity, the ethnicity reflected in the culture harmoniously embraces various spirits such as conflict and coexistence, individualism and collectivism or regionalism, and exclusion and tolerance of religions. In addition, the characteristics in the cultural phenomena include passion, sensuousness, individualism, sense of reality, sense of chic, and the people-centeredness. The basic Characteristics of Spanish fashion include the sensuality of excessive zeal, decorativeness of gorgeous handicrafts, exoticism of people-centered variety, extreme contrast of harmony, touching artistry of chic, and fantastic surrealistic wits.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.61-70
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• 2005

A representative British designer, Vivienne Westwood's work. world from radical punk style to aristocratic historical dress is explored in context in terms of Englishness. National identity opens up into the process of mobilization of collective sentiment in the national context, unlike nationalism, and Englishness signifies the idea or emotion of England in contrast with Britishness, the political constructor influenced by geographical aspects. There is no doubt that Vivienne Westwood is central to ideas about creativity and originality in English design on subculture. However, in evaluating a designer and her work we should consider the entire context surrounding her from a broader view, rather than arguing only her own ingenuity. In this article, through reconsidering her originality in the historical reference as well as the resistant punk style in aspect of fluid national identity, I show a case of a constituted Englishness, forged by Vivienne Westwood as a cultural creator of national identity. Vivienne Westwood's case hints the complexities of national culture, which constantly shifts, translating her understandings of history and culture into fashion in her contemporary insight and glamorous ways.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.89-97
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• 2003

This study is to review the development of calico printing pattern design for fabric through historical perspective. Calico is a cotton cloth named from Calicut, a city of India. It was first brought to England by the East India company in 1621. Although the name is generally given and plain white cotton cloth, and in America it is applied to small-scale printed cottons, today it applies to indian cotton cloth, coarse or fine, woven with colored geometrical large-scale and small-scale patterns, painted or printed. Therefore this paper proposes the classification and feature extraction of calico printing pattern from the early of 16th century to 21th century. The results of this study can be effectively applied to develop competitive calico pattern design in domestic cotton textile industry.