• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.197-211
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• 2016

Loulan was an ancient kingdom located on the northeast of the Taklamakan Desert, a diverging point between the north and south of Silk Road, on the east of the current Turpan, from the 2nd century BC and the 7th century A.D, absorbing and propagating culture of both sides through active trade. Meanwhile, as many previous research investigations suggest the early trade between Korea and the countries bordering on Western China, characteristics of Loulan costume have been found to have similarity to those of ancient Korean costume. Also, it can be compared to costume in other surrounding regions. Therefore, it is a highly valuable region in researching ancient costume. This study examined the historical background of Loulan and its relationship with ancient Korea, analyzed the clothes found in historic sites of Louland and Niya, and compared costume elements of Loulan and those of Korea. The result of the study shows that first, the Loulan Jeogori was based on the Jikryeonggyoim, with Chaksu, narrow sleeves and the length coming between below the chest and above the bottom, and the line decoration and waist belt were very similar to Korean costumes, as well as the Banryeong, curved collar and Bansu, short sleeves. Second, the types of pants included Gunggo, characterized by closed bottom and many creases, and Daegugo, wide-leg trousers, which are very similar in shape to the Korean Shilla lay sculpture, Stele To Martyr Yi Ch'a-don, Yangjikgongdo and Wangheedo. Third, in accessories as well, the Jowu stuck on the Gwanmo is similar in the shapes to Korean costume.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.937-954
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• 2008

The Gollyongpo was worn by the King and the Crown Prince in Joseon dynasty as an ordinary wear. The research on the Gollyongpo is focused on the historic record of Joseon dynasty, Joseonwangjosillok. This study will analyze literature, paintings and relics. First, I have researched Ming's(China) representative document daminghuidian, and excavated relics from the tomb dingling. I examined the usage and characteristic, through various remaining literature data, artifacts and paintings. The Gollyongpo was worn for the various ceremonies as well as an ordinary wear. According to the periode, the style and color had changed. The King wore the red Gollyongpo with 5 clawed dragon pattern, the Crown Prince wore black one with 4 clawed pattern, and the eldest son of the Crown Prince wore black one with 3 clawed dragon emblem. After the Daehan Empire, the Emperor wore gold outfit and the Crown Prince wore red outfit. Sonyongpo recorded in the Gungjungbalgi is concerned as Gollyongpo with narrow straight sleeve, one of the Sejong University Museum's Collection. There is some Possibility that the Gollyongpo painted in Bongsado is woven with dragon design, I would leave this matter for next research task.

• 복식
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• 제51권1호
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• pp.129-143
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• 2001

Particular historic events such as revolution and wars have given rise to fashion. Luxurious costume representative of the aristocratic culture since the French Revolution was changed into popular look with the collapse of the royal regime. With the restoration of the royal regime by Napoleon, rapid changes associated with the reemergence of the costume of aristocratic brought an opportunity for the revolutionary fashion of bringing about new fashion in the fashion field. Especially, the New Look Presented by Christian Dior in 1947 shortly after the Second World War would be the typical style of revolutionary fashion. Accordingly, this study attempted to analyse the characteristics of new fashion regarding how new fashion occurred and developed in changes in revolutionary fashion after the Revolution and the War, in conjunction with the zeitgeist(time split) of rapid social changes. The ultimate purpose of this study was find out the significance of fashion as to how and why fashion changed in relation to the factors of changes in fashion in the history and create new future fashion by reinterpreting new aesthetic consciousness about the characteristic of new fashion found in changes in revolutionary fashion.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.142-152
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate Spencer jacket of Empire Style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. First, Literature, films and other visual information were utilized in order to classify the designs of Spencer jacket. Second, Production of Spencer jacket using patterns shown in literatures and those commercially used and commercial patterns were investigated to find out design characteristics of jackets. Results and discussions are as follows: The results showed that Spencer jacket can be categorized into following three styles: (1) Jackets having front opening without button stands and standing collar, (2) Double breasted opening and notched collar, (3) Single breasted opening and flat collar with waist band. The characteristics of Spencer jacket design were as follows: (1) Short jacket length, (2) Armhole line moved inwards, (3) Long fit shaped puff sleeves, whose puff being distributed more heavily over back of the sleeve, (4) Diamond shaped back bodice, which are consisted with princess lines and shoulder lines moved backwards.

• 복식
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• 제43권
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• pp.69-82
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• 1999

This study is focused on the aesthetic application of traditional Korean dress(Items) to the contemporary fashion design. The results are as follows: (1) Each traditional dresses have revealed their aesthetic characteristics according to the periods or time. (2) The dresses of certain period figures and items had been limited in use in fashion design today. (3) The most favoured dresses adapted in fashion design were Chosun costume and female top items were the most preferred in use. (4) The colors applied to the fashion design were also limited. The bright and strong color groups were the most popular colors among fashion designers for their works. White which stands for the image of korean and their dresses were also preferred in use. Therfore experts in various arena of fashion business have to keep in mind following problems:(1) They have to study traditional dresses to enhance their historic knowledges and appreciate their aesthetic beauties (2) Various kinds of dresses from many periods items should be tried to adapt in fashion design by the designers. (3) Various male attires also should be adapted in fashion design. (4) various methodologies are recommended to apply in fashion design (5) fashion moods should be examined to make the krean fashion design rich The plastic characteristics of Korean traditional dresses could be interpreted as a tunnel to show the esprit of Korean and the aesthetic of Korean dresses through the works of fashion design for the international fashion markets or societies.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2015

This paper examines the contemporary relationship between fashion brands and celebrities. Noting the historic role of celebrities in fashion and their current prevalence in the industry, the paper moves beyond discussion of the motives and effectiveness of celebrity endorsement, and instead explores its nature and practice in the fashion sector. The paper proposes a new definition of celebrity endorsement in fashion, offers a classification of celebrities involved in fashion brand endorsement, and presents a typology examining the contemporary means by which a fashion brand may collaborate with celebrities. The typology is defined in context of the nature, length and cost to the brand of the relationship between it and the celebrity. The methodology uses secondary sources and qualitative primary research in an exploratory agenda in order to propose conclusions and suggest ideas for further research.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.134-152
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• 2008

In this paper, embroidery works with a certain date are divided by a category, and they are reviewed in terms of original fabrics, embroidery patterns, the form of an artwork, embroidery techniques, and etc with the aim of the understanding of the Joseon period embroidery. In the second part, I examine the history of Korean embroidery from the Three Kingdoms period to the Joseon dynasty along with the written records and extant embroidery works. The third part, Joseon embroidery revealed by the analysis of the remaining embroidery works, divides Joseon embroidery by two kinds, bridal robe and rank badge as well as an embroidery screen. Through the examination of these extant works, I try to rediscover the historic significance of Joseon embroidery, and also hope to help people to gain an expert opinion on Joseon embroidery.

• 복식
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• 제51권1호
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• pp.97-104
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• 2001

본 연구의 목적은 양탄자 시대 Navajo 직물의 특징을 살펴보고, 특히 시간의 흐름에 따른 양탄자의 발달을 고찰하는데 있다. 연구방법은 양탄자 스타일의 특징 및 변화에 대한 문헌을 중심으로 조사하였고, 아리조나 주립박물관과 역사박물관을 견학하였으며 박물관 안에 있는 전문가들의 조언을 듣고 연구의 자료를 보완하였다. 또한 Navajo 직물 전시회에서 실제로 직물을 관찰하였고 주요직물들을 시각적 자료로 제시하였다. 양탄자시대는 20세기 초에 서구인들의 요구에 따라 새로운 형태의 Navajo 직물이 출현하면서 시작되었고 초기, 부흥기, 지역적 스타일시대로 구분되며 1940년대 이후 지금까지 지역적 스타일 양탄자시대에 해당한다. 즉 현재 Navajo인들은 거주 지역에 따라 스타일, 색상, 염색 방법, 디자인이 서로 다른 양탄자를 생산하며 대표적인 것으로는 Crystal, Chinle. Wide Ruin, Two Grey Hills, Tees Nos Pos. Ganado, Storm Pattern 양탄자의 일곱 가지를 들 수 있다.

• 복식
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• 제57권3호
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• pp.14-22
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• 2007

This study is about the excavated costume representing fundamental "Conservation and Restoration". It's not a report of a specific case, but it is a guideline that contains the costume and textile of museum collection. It is not research based on experiments; however, this paper is basically consists of various reported-documents. Followings are the conclusions of this study 1. These are the factors that we have to know to prevent the causes of fabric's degradation. -Light, -Humidity and temperature, -Microscopic organism, -Insect and rodent animal, -Air pollution, -Ph, -Handling 2. Basic principles of conservation and restoration follows are: -Select the Reversible method, -Represent the easily distinguishable repaired place, -Should be acted by an expert or people with experience, -Before the restoration, accurate and specified records should be completed, -Procedure, treatment method, and materials used should be recorded prior to restoration, -Should be cared minimally, -Be cautious when using the conservation materials, -When caring, make sure nothing is against the principle of aesthetic, historic, and form of preservation 3. The types of restoration are type of straight or curve, type of hole, type of without warp or weft, type of special part damage something like sleeve, collar, type of form that is severely damaged, and type of separated pieces. 4. The method of restoration is sewing, stitching, and the combination of sewing and stitching. 5. The restoration seams are welt seam, plain seam, flat felled seam, french seam etc. And there are kinds of used-sewing, such as, broad stitching, backstitch, half backstitch, basking, hemming, saddle stitching etc.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.220-233
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to reviews the Chinesm expressed in the modern fashion world after the year 2000, and underlines the characteristics of Chinesm, as the Chinese fashion market is getting bigger and becomes the cynosure of the world. The method of this study is by research on precedence as well as related researches in Korean and foreign books. The results were as follows. First, the Chinesm recreates the historic motive which is the traditional costume, ornaments, or make-up etc. to maintain the harmony between the modernity and the past, preventing from following or mimicking. Second, the Chinesm expresses the combinational and harmonious manner with the combined image on the Chinese original symbolic factors mixing with the foreign spatial-temporal elements, the various styles of wear and decoration, and the different images to have the natural or equivocal relationship with one another. Third, The Chinesm magnifies the feminine atmosphere to express the sensual image by using effectively the traditional design factors, which is tight silhouette, coverture, and exposure. Fourth, the Chinesm professes the pro-naturalism embracing the human without conflicting with the human nature. It seems possible on the new value mixed with colors, materials, or patterns, etc.