• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.13 no.1 s.31
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• pp.113-120
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• 1999

In this paper, mathematical formulation of the high-order spectral/boundary-element method is shown. This method is one of the most efficient numerical methods by which the nonlinear gravity waves can be simulated in time-domain. Three-dimensional waves generated by a uniformly translating suriace pressure are calculated and discussed. The obtained results are compared with others results, The comparisons show good agreements.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.225-233
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• 1997

The nonlinear effects on the statistical properties of wave groups in terms of the average nomber of waves in a group and the mean number of waves in a high run is studied in this paper utilizing the complex envelope and total phase function, random variable transformation technique and perturbation method. It tures out that the phase distribution is modified significantly by nonlinearities and it show systematic excess of values near the mean phase and the corresponding symmetrical deficiency on both sides away from the mean. for the case of threshold crossing rate, it turns out that threshold crossing rate reaches its maxima just below the mean water level rather than zero and considerable amount of probability mass is shifted toward the larger values of water surface elevation as nonlinearity is getting profound. Furthermore, the mean waves in a high run associated with nonlinear wave are shown to have larger values than the linear counterpart. Similar trend can also be found in the average number of waves in a group.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.212-221
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• 2016

In this study, characteristics of swell-like high waves in the East Sea were analyzed using observed wave data and predicted meteorological data from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). And, the wave prediction system using the data from the NOAA has been established. Furthermore, the applicability of the system has been verified by comparing the predicted results with the corresponding observed data. For some case, there were two times of wave height increase and the second increase occurred in a calm weather condition on the coast which might cause casualties. The direction of wave energy propagation was estimated from observed wave data in February, 2008. Through comparison between the direction of wave energy propagation and the meteorological data, it turns out that the second increase of waves is originated from the seas between Russia and Japan which is far from the East Sea.

• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.7-19
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• 2017

In this study, waves and currents observed by acoustic AWAC, VECTOR and Aquadopp Profiler in Anmok coastal waters were analysed to account for the variability of wave and current and to understand the mechanism of sediment transport generated by wave-induced current in the surf-zone. The monthly variation of wave and residual currents were analysed and processed with long-term observed AWAC data at station W1, located at the water depth of about 18m measured during from February 2015 to September 2016. Wave-induced currents were also analysed with intensive field measurements such as wave, current, suspended sediment, and bathymetry data observed at the surf-zone during in winter and summer. The statistical result of wave data shows that high waves coming from NNE and NE in winter (DEC-FEB) are dominant due to strong winds from NE. But in the other season waves coming from NE and ENE are prevalent due to the seasonal winds from E and SE. The residual currents with southeastern direction parallel to the shoreline are dominant throughout a year except in winter showing in opposite direction. The speed of ebb-dominant southeastern residual currents decreasing from surface to the bottom is strong in summer and fall but weak in winter and spring. By analysing wave-induced current, we found that cross-shore current were generated by swell waves mainly in winter with incoming wave direction about $45^{\circ}$ normal to the shoreline. Depending on the direction of incoming waves, longshore currents in the surf-zone were separated to southeastern and northwestern flows in winter and summer respectively. The variation of observed currents near crescentic bars in the surf-zone shows different direction of longshore and cross-shore currents depending on incoming waves implying to the reason of beach erosion generating the beach cusp and sandbar migration during high waves at Anmok.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.49-56
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• 2003

This study is to find physiological effects of acoustic information on landscape preference. Both the volume and the rate of $\alpha$-waves and $\beta$-waves were used to measure the effects in the study. The result of this study are summarized as follows: The outputting amount of $\alpha$-waves are sorted by different types of visual and acoustic factors. The results show that acoustic factors interacted with visual factors. That is, although visual factors are positive, the volume of $\alpha$-waves depends upon the character of acoustic factors; positive acoustic factors produce more $\alpha$-waves than negative or neutral(soundless) acoustic factors. Also the volume of $\alpha$-waves increase in the case of positive acoustic factors even if there is the same negative visual information. The results show that the volume of $\alpha$-waves increase without connecting with the types of visual factors. The volume of $\beta$-waves are largely reduced when visual stimulus is positive and soundless stimulus is provided. On the other hand, they generally increase when both visual and acoustic stimuli are negative, which fosters extremely unstable, tense and upset stress. The rate of $\alpha$-waves increase according to supplying positive acoustic factors in the opposed visual factors. The rate of wave(shouldn't be $\alpha$-waves\ulcorner) is high if both visual and acoustic factors are positive, so it is the most comfortable and causes no stress. Preference is the lowest if visual and acoustic factors are negative, but a -waves are conspicuously low in positive visual and negative acoustic factors.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.12 no.2 s.28
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• pp.33-42
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• 1998

In the presence of incident waves with different frequencies, the second order sum and difference frequency waves due to the nonlinearity of the incident waves come into existence. Although the magnitudes of the forces produced on a Tension Leg Platform(TLP) by these nonlinear waves are small, they act on the TLP at sum and difference frequencies away from those of the incident waves. So, the second order sum and difference frequency wave loads produced close to the natural frequencies of TLPs often give greater contributions to high and low frequency resonant responses. The second order wave exciting forces and moments have been obtained by the method based on direct integration of pressure acting on the submerged surface of a TLP. The components of the second order forces which depend on first order quantities have been evaluated using the three dimensional source distribution method. The numerical results of time domain analysis for the nonlinear wave exciting forces in regular waves are compared with the numerical ones of frequency domain analysis. The results of comparison confirmed the validity of the proposed approach.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.7-12
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• 2002

This study is aimed to find the scouring mechanism at the toe of rubble mound structures. To investigate the characteristics of scouring in front of the structure, experiments were performed with regular waves in a 2-D flume. The results of this study are as follows. 1) It can be said the characteristics of incident wave causes rolling and sliding of armour block. The difference of wave pressure on the slope, internal flow as well as settlement of armour block due to the weight cause scouring. 2) It is observed that scouring depth at the toe increased when wave height or period increased. The location of ultimate scouring and deposition depth moved seaward when wave period increased. 3) The failure of rubble mound structure was caused by waves or scouring. Failure by erosion increased with high waves and long waves. 4) Using surf-similarity parameter including characteristics of incident waves and structure, scouring and deposition pattern were found and their limit was formulated.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Propulsion Engineers Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.253-257
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• 2003

Theoretical-numerical analysis of wave instability is conducted with parametric response function model. Fluctuating instantaneous mass evaporation rate functionally coupled with pressure perturbations with phase lag is assumed to examine the validity of the method. With sufficiently large amplitude and less phase lag to perturbation, combustion response is resonant to pressure waves, unstable waves are amplified, and the system is driven to instability. Magnitude of response is a crucial instability parameter in the determination of a stability margins and makes a critical change of balancing conditions between the amplifying and damping acoustic energies. In the phase regime the unstable waves are amplified, whereas, the acoustic waves are attenuated in the out-of-phase regime. In the intermediate regime, no distinct tendency of unstable waves was determined.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.149-159
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• 2014

In this study, we develop an algorithm to predict swell-like high waves on the east coast of Korea using the directional wave gauge which was installed near Sokcho. Using the numerical wave model SWAN, we estimate wave data in open sea from the wave data collected by using the directional wave gauge. Then, using the wave ray method and SWAN model with the open-sea wave data as offshore boundary conditions, we predict the swell-like high waves at several major points on the east coast of Korea. We verify the prediction methods with the SWAN and wave ray methods by comparing predicted data against measured one at Wangdolcho. We can improve the prediction of the swell-like high waves in the east sea of Korea using both the real-time wave measurement system and the present prediction algorithm.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.161-177
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• 2013

High-speed vessels require good resistance and seakeeping performance for safe operations in rough seas. The resistance and seakeeping performance of high-speed vessels varies significantly depending on their hull forms. In this study, three planing hulls that have almost the same displacement and principal dimension are designed and the hydrodynamic characteristics of those hulls are estimated by high-speed model tests. All model ships are deep-V type planing hulls. The bows of no.2 and no.3 model ships are designed to be advantageous for wave-piercing in rough water. No.2 and no.3 model ships have concave and straight forebody cross-sections, respectively. And length-to-beam ratios of no.2 and no.3 models are larger than that of no.1 model. In calm water tests, running attitude and resistance of model ships are measured at various speeds. And motion tests in regular waves are performed to measure the heave and pitch motion responses of the model ships. The required power of no.1 (VPS) model is smallest, but its vertical motion amplitudes in waves are the largest. No.2 (VWC) model shows the smallest motion amplitudes in waves, but needs the greatest power at high speed. The resistance and seakeeping performance of no.3 (VWS) model ship are the middle of three model ships, respectively. And in regular waves, no.1 model ship experiences 'fly over' phenomena around its resonant frequency. Vertical accelerations at specific locations such as F.P., center of gravity of model ships are measured at their resonant frequency. It is necessary to measure accelerations by accelerometers or other devices in model tests for the accurate prediction of vertical accelerations in real ships.