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The Study of Korean Yellow Dyeing (한국(韓國) 황염(黃染) 연구(硏究))

  • Lee, Yang-Sup
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.4
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    • pp.13-24
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    • 1981
  • The color yellow was considered from ancient time to the Chosun Dynasty as the central color. Thus, this color became the royal color for the costumes in the palace. It is generally known to usthat the color yellow was controled in use both for the general public and in the royal palaces. However, in the later part of Chosun Dynasty, the color yellow was used not only for the king's costumes but also used for women's tops and for the linings of clothing. Especially, in some of the costumes that belonged to the later period of the Chosun Dynasty, we can still see lots of bright yellow tops. Also there are many green dyed official robes and various costumes for women. It is a true fact that people could not derive the color green from the plants as they did with yellow. The only way they could make the color green was to mix indigo and yellow together. By repeating the difficult process of making various dyes constantly during many centuries, the Korean people developed the marvelous technique of making natural color. Those plants used to make the color yellow are ; Gardenia, Phellodendron amurense, Turmeric, Coptis, Safflower, Arthraxon hispidus, Styphnolobium japonicum. While synthetic dye causes pollution, natural coloring by plants is as safe and useful as the color itself is lovely. Yet it is tragic to know that this traditional culture of making beautiful natural colors was cut off. There is no way to know today the traditionally correct method to derive colors from the plants. Therefore, it is our aim and challenge to find out the original way to dye and develop it and preserve it as our non-polluted folk art. In regard to natural dyeing, we must say that is very difficult to prepare and preserve natural dyes. In the first place, people had to get the right plants at an appropriate time. Then they could not keep those plants too long. Finally, much depended upon the mordant as well as various conditions and dyeing procedures. All those things influenced greatly the quality of color, some times producing a very pretty color and other times a very dull one. It is very appropriate that the natural dye art should be recognized and appreciated anew by Korea since it provides satisfaction to historical and folk artistic demands as well as to those of fashion conscious modern society for high quality consumption items. We propose two stages of development. The first stage is to explore native dye plants and encourage their cultivation. The second stage is to extract from the plants desirable dye which will enhance national culture.

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A Study on Korean Twill Fabrics in the 17th Century (17세기 한국 능(綾)직물 연구)

  • Cho, Hyo-Sook;Lee, Eunjin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.4
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    • pp.56-69
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    • 2013
  • This study studies the fabrics from excavated 17th century tombs of Mrs. Min from Yeoheung family(1586~1656), Yeo-on Kim(1596~1665) and Won-rip Choi(1618~1690) and attempts to clarify the relationship between the fashion trend in fabrics of those times and the background behind it by viewing and examining the proportion of twill fabrics to the total silk fabrics and the characteristics of its weave and patterns. Looking into fabrics from the above tombs, twill fabrics accounted for 10.4%(13 pieces) 19.3%(16 pieces) and 9.2%(9 pieces) of total silk fabrics in each of the respective tombs. This forms a remarkable contrast with the fact that there was only one piece of twill silk fabrics(0.5%) and not any from the 16th century tombs of Mrs. Yoon from Papyeong family (0.5%) and Soo-ryoon Sim(0%). In particular, the percentage of hwamun-neung(patterned twill fabrics) in each of the tombs is 8.0%(10 pieces), 13.3%(11 pieces), 9.2%(9 pieces), which is much higher than that of non-patterned one. This is common to the twill fabrics from above three 17th century tombs. Patterns of hwamun-neung(patterned twill), simplified small flower patterns or geometrical figures, from the three excavated tombs are mostly arranged sporadically with blank space. It is supposed that these figurative characteristics reflected the aesthetic sense of the gentry at that time which valued simplicity and moderation for their Confucian standard. This phenomenon of increased use and production of twill fabrics in the 17th century resulted from different factors such as wars like Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592~1598), economic difficulty, government regulations against the production of high-class fabrics, development of weaving skill and its fixation, changes of fabric production environments, and changes of aesthetic sense preferring naive and moderate things to showy ones. As for the weaving characteristics of twill fabrics from the three 17th century tombs 3 leaf warp-faced twill was often used for the ground texture and 4 leaf warp-faced one was occasionally used. For pattern texture 6 leaf weft-faced twill was frequently used, 4 leaf weft-faced twill and 3 leaf weft-faced twill were used at times, and floating one was occasionally used as well.

Development of a Compact Desktop-sized Roll-to-roll Nanoimprinting System for Continuous Nanopatterning (데스크탑 규모의 간결한 롤투롤 나노임프린팅 기반 나노패턴 연속가공 시스템 개발)

  • Lee, Jeongsoo;Lee, Jihun;Nam, Seungbum;Cho, Sungil;Jo, Yongsu;Go, Minseok;Lee, Seungjo;Oh, Dong Kyo;Kim, Jeong Dae;Lee, Jae Hyuk;Ok, Jong G.
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Manufacturing Process Engineers
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    • v.16 no.1
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    • pp.96-101
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    • 2017
  • We have developed a compact desktop-sized nanopatterning system driven by the Roll-to-Roll (R2R) nanoimprinting (NIL) principle. The system realizes the continuous and high-speed stamping of various nanoscale patterns on a large-area flexible substrate without resorting to ponderous and complicated instruments. We first lay out the process principle based on continuous NIL on a UV-curable resin layer using a flexible nanopatterned mold. We then create conceptual and specific designs for the system by focusing on two key processes, imprinting and UV curing, which are performed in a continuous R2R fashion. We build a system with essential components and optimized modules for imprinting, UV curing, and R2R conveying to enable simple but effective nanopatterning within the desktop volume. Finally, we demonstrate several nanopatterning results such as nanolines and nanodots, which are obtained by operating the built desktop R2R NIL system on transparent and flexible substrates. Our system may be further utilized in the scalable fabrication of diverse flexible nanopatterns for many functional applications in optics, photonics, sensors, and energy harvesters.

The Comparison of the Physical Characteristics between Boys and Girls at Puberty (사춘기 남녀 청소년의 인체 특징에 관한 비교 - 만 $10{\sim}14$세를 중심으로 -)

  • Jeong, Hwa-Yeon;Kim, Kyung-A;Suh, Mi-A
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.15 no.1 s.66
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    • pp.37-57
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study was to analyze the body measurements of boys and girls at puberty and to provide the fundamental data for pubescent apparel manufacturers to produce clothing that reflect their physical characteristics. A total of 549 boys and 529 girls aged between 10 and 14 were measured in the capital area from March 4 to April 3, 2004. Data were collected from 35 anthropometric items and 12 photographic items per a person. SPSS Ver. 12 program was used in data analysis including means, standard deviation, t-test and Duncan test. The main results of this study were as follows. They showed the significant difference of their growth in accordance with the increase of their ages. There were also the difference between boys and girls. As for height and length items, boys showed a slow growth at the age of $10{\sim}11\;and\;12{\sim}13$. Those at the age of $11{\sim}12\;and\;13{\sim}14$ showed rapid growth. That is, an active growth was followed by a slow growth and that phenomenon repeatedly occurred. On the other hand, girls showed remarkable growth at the age $10{\sim}11$ and the growth rate gradually slowed down afterward. Regarding circumference items, boys at the age of $11{\sim}12\;and\;13{\sim}14$ showed remarkable growth. This results showed that boys at the age of $11{\sim}12$ had vertical growth and horizontal growth at the same time and for those at the age of $13{\sim}14$, growth was more conspicuous in horizontal direction. Meanwhile, for girls, the growth rate was high at the age of $11{\sim}12$, somewhat later than the age of the growth of height and length. As for breadth-related items and depth-related items, for both sexes two items grew steadily throughout the ages, breadth-related items showed a higher growth rate than that of depth-related items. This study analyzed the body measurements of pubescent boys and girls and the results showed that, for boys, an active physical growth took place at the age of 13 according to previous studies, but the findings of this study suggested that the phenomenon now occurred at the age of $11{\sim}12$, which proved that physical growth took place earlier than before. Also, an active growth was followed by a slow growth. Girls at puberty showed remarkable growth of height at the age of $10{\sim}11$ that is consistent with previous studies and then showed horizontal growth at the age of around 12, having a voluminous body shape.

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The Color Characteristics of Masculinity Presented in Modern Women's Suit - Focus on the Paris, London, New York and Milan Collections from 2004 F/W to 2006 F/W - (현대 여성 수트에 있어서 남성성(masculinity)을 나타내는 색채 특성 - 2004~2006년 F/W의 파리, 런던, 뉴욕, 밀라노 컬렉션을 중심으로 -)

  • Kwon, Ji-Hyun;Kim , Young-In
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.2
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    • pp.62-77
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    • 2008
  • This study aims to analyze color characteristics centered by women's suit styles that represent masculinity remarkably. Through this, it figures out color's type and continuance availability as a representing tool to express masculinity to provide useful color information which can be applied effectively to various color planning. For this research, related images were collected among women's pants suits appeared in $2004{\sim}2006's$ Paris, London, New York and Milan collection F/W that are most similar to modern man's suit. Among them, the study analyzes 319 pictures where the features of masculinity were represented effectively. The referred color values were earned by converting $L^*a^*b^*$ values measured through the color extracting tool of Computer program (Adobe Photoshop CS) and color tone characteristic were analyzed by classifying 12 color PCCS and 5 achromatic colors. The result of the study are as follows: First, based on standard of color hue and tone, in terms of color hue, PB, YR, Y were frequently shown up but G, BG series were not found much after analyzing overall women's pants suit color characteristics shown in $2004{\sim}2006$ Paris, London, New York and Milan collection. Second, the color analysis about 3years of $2004{\sim}2006$ tells that achromatic colors have been most widely used in every year. In terms of color hue, PB, YR, Y series were appeared most popular and G, BG classes weren't appeared frequently. In addition, once looking at yearly color tone distribution trend, like overall color tone distribution result, Bk, w, dkg, g, p were highly used as sequential and b, v, dp, sf, ItGy series show low distribution level. And such a distribution level of low and high in frequency has been showed continuously as a similar style. Accordingly, through the study, as a tool to express masculinity in women's suit, achromatic colors like black and white series and PB, YR, Y series color were investigated as most popular uses. And as color tones, Bk, w, dkg, g, p were used frequently.

Automatic Determination of the Azimuth Angle of Reflectors in Borehole Radar Reflection Data Using Direction-finding Antenna (방향탐지 안테나를 이용한 시추공 레이다 반사법 탐사에 있어서 반사층 방위각의 자동 결정)

  • Kim Jung-Ho;Cho Seong-Jun;Yi Myeong-Jong;Chung Seung-Hwan
    • Geophysics and Geophysical Exploration
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    • v.1 no.3
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    • pp.176-182
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    • 1998
  • The borehole radar reflection survey can image the underground structure with high resolution, however, we cannot get any information on the orientation of the reflectors with dipole antenna alone. The direction-finding antenna system is commonly used to give the solution to the problem. However, the interpretation of the data from direction- finding antenna may be time-consuming, and sometimes have ambiguities in the sense of precise determination of the azimuth. To solve the problem, we developed the automatic azimuth finding scheme of reflectors in borehole radar reflection data using direction-finding antenna. The algorithm is based on finding the azimuthal angle possibly showing the maximum reflection amplitude in the least-squared error sense. The developed algorithm was applied to the field data acquired in quarry mine. It was possible to locate nearly all of the reflectors in three dimensional fashion, which coincide with the known geological structures and man-made discontinuities.

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A Study on the Comparison of Recognition of Body Types in Korean and Chinese College Female Students

  • Kim, Hyo-Sook;Sohn, Hee-Soon;Soon Im;Son, Hee-Jeong;Kim, Young-Sook;Chang, Hee-Kyung;Kim, Kyoung-Hwa
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • v.2 no.2
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    • pp.97-118
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    • 1999
  • Ever since China adopted a free market economy, it has been basking in unprecedented economic growth. It has now emerged as one of the most promising markets in the world for the near future. The purpose of this study was to investigate of Chinese and Korea college female students's cognitive body type and to suggest basic informations for high quality clothing merchandising for china export. The subjects in this study were 430 college female students, aged from 18 to 24 living in Beijing(215) and Seoul(215). The survey were taken from June to July, 1999. SAS(Statistical Analysis System) is used for frequency, percentage, average, standard deviation, χ²-test. The results of this study are as follows. The 90% of Chinese collge female students has under 4000 yuan for monthly income, and they consume less than 1000 yuan for clothing purchasing for one year. About 42% chinese students are interested in controlling of physical body shape. The Korean college female students has from 1,000,000 won to 10,000,000 won for monthly income, and the 84% of them consume less than 1,000,000 for clothing purchasing for one year. It represents of economical difference between China and Korea. Examination on the Korean and Chinese self-perception on obesity of the body as a whole showed that both groups perceived themselves as normal or slightly overweight. More Korean respondents regarded their weight as normal than the Chinese did. The Chinese female college students perceived themselves rather overweight, and held a lower satisfaction level about their physical construction. While the Korean female college students showed low satisfaction level about specific bodily parts, they held a normal level of satisfaction about their physical construction as a whole. It is noteworthy that more Chinese respondents generally held lower satisfaction impressions about their physical construction than their Korean counterparts. It is needed to different merchandising project for export clothing in China.

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Presentation and Representation of Modernity in Modern Architecture - On Exclusion of Ornament and Emergence of the surface - (근대주의 건축에서 모더니티 표상의 문제 - 장식의 배제와 표면의 부각을 중심으로 -)

  • Khang, Hyuk
    • Journal of architectural history
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    • v.15 no.4
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    • pp.37-56
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    • 2006
  • Introducing International Style, P. Johnson and H. R. Hitchcock gave three standards to be the Modern, volume and surface, regularity, and exclusion of applied decoration. In spite of the negation of stylistic, formal approach in the Modernist Manifestoes, one usually have understood Modernity in Architecture with its formal character, especially with no ornament and flat, abstract, white surface. Modernism as a new paradigm in architecture have emphasized that there is no representation of anything outside and only present architecture in itself. They said that Modernism only cared about the language of Architecture without figural reference. So apparently there is no way to prove to its Modernity with formal condition. Modernity is in Spirit and contents. But actually we understand well its existence by visual communication This study deals with this difficult situation how Modernity represents itself without visual media and asks the question how simultaneously it presents its thingness and materiality In order to analyse contradictory situation between representation and presentation in Modern Architecture we need to survey the historical process of changing position of ornaments and its meaning in time. With the crisis of representation the role of ornament have seriously changed and divided. It caused the two situation in pre-Modern Architecture. Firstly, Architecture tend to be a high art and formal expression became important much more. The Use of Ornament became a kind of fashion to show the power, class, money. Secondly, Ornament lost its cultural weight and the structure and material aspect became the central in architecture. Rational Structuralism would be the essential character in Modern Architecture. Here the theory of G. Semper and A. Loos on cladding(dressing) and Ornament can help its problems and limits. In the situation without conventional ornament Modernists need to present modernity with new media that only show the thing itself and by that it does not represent any thing else as like the value, idea outside buildings. They believed that only it concerned esthetics and morality in architecture. But in reality it referred to art and machines as like ships, aircraft, and cars. By excluding Ornament and showing the process of clearing, abstract, flat, white surface 'represent' Modernity by the indirect way referring the concept of transparency, reason, sanitation, tectonics, etc. An Ideology and myth intervened architectural discourse to make the doxa about the representation in Architecture. Surface must be a different kind of media and message that can communicate in different way with compared to conventional Ornament. Decorated Shed by R. Venturi and Post-Functionalism by P. Eisenman, that are the most famous post-modern discourse, shows well difficult and contradictory condition in contemporary architecture concerning representation and form, meaning and form.

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Gamma-ray-induced skin injury in the mini-pig: Effects of irradiation exposure on cyclooxygenase-2 expression in the skin (감마선조사에 의한 돼지 피부장애에 cyclooxygenase-2의 발현변화)

  • Kim, Joong Sun;Park, Sunhoo;Jang, Won Seok;Lee, Sun Joo;Lee, Seung Sook
    • Journal of Radiation Protection and Research
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    • v.40 no.1
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    • pp.65-72
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    • 2015
  • The basic concepts of radiation-induced skin damage have been established, the biological mechanism has not been studied. In this study, we have examined the effects of gamma rays on skin injury and cyclooxygenase(COX)-2 expression. Gamma irradiation induced clinicopathological changes in a dose- and time-dependent manner in mini-pig skin. The histological changes were consistent with the changes in gross appearance at 12 weeks after irradiation. After three days' irradiation, apoptotic cells in the basal layer were found more frequently in irradiated skin than in normal skin, with the magnitude of the effect being dose-dependent. The thickness of the epidermis transiently increased 3 days after irradiation, and then gradually decreased, although changes in the epithelial thickness of the irradiated field were not observed with irradiation doses over 50 Gy. In the epithelium, there was an initial degenerative phase, during which the rate of basal cell depletion was dependent on the radiation dose (20-70 Gy). One week after irradiation, COX-2 expression was mostly limited to the basal cell layer and was scattered across these cells. High COX-2 expression was detected throughout the full depth of the skin after irradiation. The COX-2 protein is upregulated after irradiation in mini-pig skin. These histological changes associated with radiation exposure dose cause the increased COX-2 expression in a dose-dependent fashion.

A Study of Influential Variables on Adaptation to College life among College Students from Cosmetology-related Departments (미용관련 대학생들의 대학생활적응에 영향을 미치는 변인)

  • Yoo, Eun-Ju;Kim, Soon-Ku;Shim, Sun-Nyu
    • Journal of Digital Convergence
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    • v.11 no.11
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    • pp.633-642
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    • 2013
  • This study has attempted to investigate correlations among variables against 366 college students from cosmetology-related departments in Busan and figure out the effects of the variables which have an effect on adaptation to college life. First, in terms of 'college life stress', a positive correlation was observed with 'depression' while a negative correlation was found with 'adaptation to college life'. As 'social support' increased, 'self-efficacy' and 'adaptation to college life' were high as well. However, 'depression' was low. On the contrary, 'self-efficacy' revealed a negative correlation with 'depression' but a positive correlation with 'adaptation to college life'. Second, as peer support and professor support increased, and academic performance and value-related problems and depression decreased, 'adaptation to college life' was satisfying. Third, in terms of the effect of 'adaptation to academic achievements', 'academic matters' was the highest. In terms of the effect of social adaptation, 'peer support' was the highest. In terms of the effect of emotional and physical adaptations, 'depression' was the highest. In terms of the effect of attachment to college, 'professor issues' were the highest.