• 제목/요약/키워드: high fashion

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한국(韓國) 황염(黃染) 연구(硏究) (The Study of Korean Yellow Dyeing)

  • 이양섭
    • 복식
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    • 제4권
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    • pp.13-24
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    • 1981
  • The color yellow was considered from ancient time to the Chosun Dynasty as the central color. Thus, this color became the royal color for the costumes in the palace. It is generally known to usthat the color yellow was controled in use both for the general public and in the royal palaces. However, in the later part of Chosun Dynasty, the color yellow was used not only for the king's costumes but also used for women's tops and for the linings of clothing. Especially, in some of the costumes that belonged to the later period of the Chosun Dynasty, we can still see lots of bright yellow tops. Also there are many green dyed official robes and various costumes for women. It is a true fact that people could not derive the color green from the plants as they did with yellow. The only way they could make the color green was to mix indigo and yellow together. By repeating the difficult process of making various dyes constantly during many centuries, the Korean people developed the marvelous technique of making natural color. Those plants used to make the color yellow are ; Gardenia, Phellodendron amurense, Turmeric, Coptis, Safflower, Arthraxon hispidus, Styphnolobium japonicum. While synthetic dye causes pollution, natural coloring by plants is as safe and useful as the color itself is lovely. Yet it is tragic to know that this traditional culture of making beautiful natural colors was cut off. There is no way to know today the traditionally correct method to derive colors from the plants. Therefore, it is our aim and challenge to find out the original way to dye and develop it and preserve it as our non-polluted folk art. In regard to natural dyeing, we must say that is very difficult to prepare and preserve natural dyes. In the first place, people had to get the right plants at an appropriate time. Then they could not keep those plants too long. Finally, much depended upon the mordant as well as various conditions and dyeing procedures. All those things influenced greatly the quality of color, some times producing a very pretty color and other times a very dull one. It is very appropriate that the natural dye art should be recognized and appreciated anew by Korea since it provides satisfaction to historical and folk artistic demands as well as to those of fashion conscious modern society for high quality consumption items. We propose two stages of development. The first stage is to explore native dye plants and encourage their cultivation. The second stage is to extract from the plants desirable dye which will enhance national culture.

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17세기 한국 능(綾)직물 연구 (A Study on Korean Twill Fabrics in the 17th Century)

  • 조효숙;이은진
    • 복식
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    • 제63권4호
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    • pp.56-69
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    • 2013
  • This study studies the fabrics from excavated 17th century tombs of Mrs. Min from Yeoheung family(1586~1656), Yeo-on Kim(1596~1665) and Won-rip Choi(1618~1690) and attempts to clarify the relationship between the fashion trend in fabrics of those times and the background behind it by viewing and examining the proportion of twill fabrics to the total silk fabrics and the characteristics of its weave and patterns. Looking into fabrics from the above tombs, twill fabrics accounted for 10.4%(13 pieces) 19.3%(16 pieces) and 9.2%(9 pieces) of total silk fabrics in each of the respective tombs. This forms a remarkable contrast with the fact that there was only one piece of twill silk fabrics(0.5%) and not any from the 16th century tombs of Mrs. Yoon from Papyeong family (0.5%) and Soo-ryoon Sim(0%). In particular, the percentage of hwamun-neung(patterned twill fabrics) in each of the tombs is 8.0%(10 pieces), 13.3%(11 pieces), 9.2%(9 pieces), which is much higher than that of non-patterned one. This is common to the twill fabrics from above three 17th century tombs. Patterns of hwamun-neung(patterned twill), simplified small flower patterns or geometrical figures, from the three excavated tombs are mostly arranged sporadically with blank space. It is supposed that these figurative characteristics reflected the aesthetic sense of the gentry at that time which valued simplicity and moderation for their Confucian standard. This phenomenon of increased use and production of twill fabrics in the 17th century resulted from different factors such as wars like Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592~1598), economic difficulty, government regulations against the production of high-class fabrics, development of weaving skill and its fixation, changes of fabric production environments, and changes of aesthetic sense preferring naive and moderate things to showy ones. As for the weaving characteristics of twill fabrics from the three 17th century tombs 3 leaf warp-faced twill was often used for the ground texture and 4 leaf warp-faced one was occasionally used. For pattern texture 6 leaf weft-faced twill was frequently used, 4 leaf weft-faced twill and 3 leaf weft-faced twill were used at times, and floating one was occasionally used as well.

데스크탑 규모의 간결한 롤투롤 나노임프린팅 기반 나노패턴 연속가공 시스템 개발 (Development of a Compact Desktop-sized Roll-to-roll Nanoimprinting System for Continuous Nanopatterning)

  • 이정수;이지훈;남승범;조성일;조용수;고민석;이승조;오동교;김정대;이재혁;옥종걸
    • 한국기계가공학회지
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    • 제16권1호
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    • pp.96-101
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    • 2017
  • We have developed a compact desktop-sized nanopatterning system driven by the Roll-to-Roll (R2R) nanoimprinting (NIL) principle. The system realizes the continuous and high-speed stamping of various nanoscale patterns on a large-area flexible substrate without resorting to ponderous and complicated instruments. We first lay out the process principle based on continuous NIL on a UV-curable resin layer using a flexible nanopatterned mold. We then create conceptual and specific designs for the system by focusing on two key processes, imprinting and UV curing, which are performed in a continuous R2R fashion. We build a system with essential components and optimized modules for imprinting, UV curing, and R2R conveying to enable simple but effective nanopatterning within the desktop volume. Finally, we demonstrate several nanopatterning results such as nanolines and nanodots, which are obtained by operating the built desktop R2R NIL system on transparent and flexible substrates. Our system may be further utilized in the scalable fabrication of diverse flexible nanopatterns for many functional applications in optics, photonics, sensors, and energy harvesters.

사춘기 남녀 청소년의 인체 특징에 관한 비교 - 만 $10{\sim}14$세를 중심으로 - (The Comparison of the Physical Characteristics between Boys and Girls at Puberty)

  • 정화연;김경아;서미아
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제15권1호
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    • pp.37-57
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study was to analyze the body measurements of boys and girls at puberty and to provide the fundamental data for pubescent apparel manufacturers to produce clothing that reflect their physical characteristics. A total of 549 boys and 529 girls aged between 10 and 14 were measured in the capital area from March 4 to April 3, 2004. Data were collected from 35 anthropometric items and 12 photographic items per a person. SPSS Ver. 12 program was used in data analysis including means, standard deviation, t-test and Duncan test. The main results of this study were as follows. They showed the significant difference of their growth in accordance with the increase of their ages. There were also the difference between boys and girls. As for height and length items, boys showed a slow growth at the age of $10{\sim}11\;and\;12{\sim}13$. Those at the age of $11{\sim}12\;and\;13{\sim}14$ showed rapid growth. That is, an active growth was followed by a slow growth and that phenomenon repeatedly occurred. On the other hand, girls showed remarkable growth at the age $10{\sim}11$ and the growth rate gradually slowed down afterward. Regarding circumference items, boys at the age of $11{\sim}12\;and\;13{\sim}14$ showed remarkable growth. This results showed that boys at the age of $11{\sim}12$ had vertical growth and horizontal growth at the same time and for those at the age of $13{\sim}14$, growth was more conspicuous in horizontal direction. Meanwhile, for girls, the growth rate was high at the age of $11{\sim}12$, somewhat later than the age of the growth of height and length. As for breadth-related items and depth-related items, for both sexes two items grew steadily throughout the ages, breadth-related items showed a higher growth rate than that of depth-related items. This study analyzed the body measurements of pubescent boys and girls and the results showed that, for boys, an active physical growth took place at the age of 13 according to previous studies, but the findings of this study suggested that the phenomenon now occurred at the age of $11{\sim}12$, which proved that physical growth took place earlier than before. Also, an active growth was followed by a slow growth. Girls at puberty showed remarkable growth of height at the age of $10{\sim}11$ that is consistent with previous studies and then showed horizontal growth at the age of around 12, having a voluminous body shape.

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현대 여성 수트에 있어서 남성성(masculinity)을 나타내는 색채 특성 - 2004~2006년 F/W의 파리, 런던, 뉴욕, 밀라노 컬렉션을 중심으로 - (The Color Characteristics of Masculinity Presented in Modern Women's Suit - Focus on the Paris, London, New York and Milan Collections from 2004 F/W to 2006 F/W -)

  • 권지현;김영인
    • 복식
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    • 제58권2호
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    • pp.62-77
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    • 2008
  • This study aims to analyze color characteristics centered by women's suit styles that represent masculinity remarkably. Through this, it figures out color's type and continuance availability as a representing tool to express masculinity to provide useful color information which can be applied effectively to various color planning. For this research, related images were collected among women's pants suits appeared in $2004{\sim}2006's$ Paris, London, New York and Milan collection F/W that are most similar to modern man's suit. Among them, the study analyzes 319 pictures where the features of masculinity were represented effectively. The referred color values were earned by converting $L^*a^*b^*$ values measured through the color extracting tool of Computer program (Adobe Photoshop CS) and color tone characteristic were analyzed by classifying 12 color PCCS and 5 achromatic colors. The result of the study are as follows: First, based on standard of color hue and tone, in terms of color hue, PB, YR, Y were frequently shown up but G, BG series were not found much after analyzing overall women's pants suit color characteristics shown in $2004{\sim}2006$ Paris, London, New York and Milan collection. Second, the color analysis about 3years of $2004{\sim}2006$ tells that achromatic colors have been most widely used in every year. In terms of color hue, PB, YR, Y series were appeared most popular and G, BG classes weren't appeared frequently. In addition, once looking at yearly color tone distribution trend, like overall color tone distribution result, Bk, w, dkg, g, p were highly used as sequential and b, v, dp, sf, ItGy series show low distribution level. And such a distribution level of low and high in frequency has been showed continuously as a similar style. Accordingly, through the study, as a tool to express masculinity in women's suit, achromatic colors like black and white series and PB, YR, Y series color were investigated as most popular uses. And as color tones, Bk, w, dkg, g, p were used frequently.

방향탐지 안테나를 이용한 시추공 레이다 반사법 탐사에 있어서 반사층 방위각의 자동 결정 (Automatic Determination of the Azimuth Angle of Reflectors in Borehole Radar Reflection Data Using Direction-finding Antenna)

  • 김정호;조성준;이명종;정승환
    • 지구물리와물리탐사
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    • 제1권3호
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    • pp.176-182
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    • 1998
  • 시추공 레이다 반사법 탐사는 기반암 하부에 대한 고해상도 영상을 얻을 수 있으나, 그 원리상 반사층의 방위각 정보의 획득이 불가능하기 때문에 감지된 지하 불균질대가 시추공을 중심으로 어느 방향에 위치하는가를 알 수가 없다는 문제가 있다. 반사층의 방위각 정보의 획득을 위하여, 방향탐지 안테나를 이용한 탐사가 이용된다. 그러나 지금까지 사용되고 있는 방향탐지 안테나 탐사자료의 해석 방법은 시간이 많이 걸릴 뿐만 아니라, 때로는 해석에 있어서 오류를 유발할 가능성까지 있다. 이러한 문제점을 해결하기 위하여 본 연구에서는 반사층의 방위각을 자동 결정할 수 있는 방법을 개발하였다. 알고리듬은 최소자승 오차의 개념 하에서 최대 또는 최소진폭을 나타낼 수 있는 전자파의 입사각을 결정함에 그 원리를 두고 있다. 새로이 개발된 알고리듬을 이용하여 석산자원탐사 목적으로 수행된 탐사자료의 방위각 영상을 작성하였으며, 이를 통하여 거의 대부분의 반사층의 방위각에 대한 정보를 획득할 수 있었다. 지질조사 결과 확인된 단층 및 암맥, 그리고 지표에 인위적으로 존재하는 채석단면의 위치 등의 알려진 구조의 위치와, 방향탐지 안테나 영상에서 확인된 방위각과 매우 잘 일치하고 있음이 확인되었으며, 이러한 사실은 본 연구에서 개발된 방위각 자동 결정 알고리듬의 정확성을 대변하여 주고 있다.

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A Study on the Comparison of Recognition of Body Types in Korean and Chinese College Female Students

  • Kim, Hyo-Sook;Sohn, Hee-Soon;Soon Im;Son, Hee-Jeong;Kim, Young-Sook;Chang, Hee-Kyung;Kim, Kyoung-Hwa
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • 제2권2호
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    • pp.97-118
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    • 1999
  • Ever since China adopted a free market economy, it has been basking in unprecedented economic growth. It has now emerged as one of the most promising markets in the world for the near future. The purpose of this study was to investigate of Chinese and Korea college female students's cognitive body type and to suggest basic informations for high quality clothing merchandising for china export. The subjects in this study were 430 college female students, aged from 18 to 24 living in Beijing(215) and Seoul(215). The survey were taken from June to July, 1999. SAS(Statistical Analysis System) is used for frequency, percentage, average, standard deviation, χ²-test. The results of this study are as follows. The 90% of Chinese collge female students has under 4000 yuan for monthly income, and they consume less than 1000 yuan for clothing purchasing for one year. About 42% chinese students are interested in controlling of physical body shape. The Korean college female students has from 1,000,000 won to 10,000,000 won for monthly income, and the 84% of them consume less than 1,000,000 for clothing purchasing for one year. It represents of economical difference between China and Korea. Examination on the Korean and Chinese self-perception on obesity of the body as a whole showed that both groups perceived themselves as normal or slightly overweight. More Korean respondents regarded their weight as normal than the Chinese did. The Chinese female college students perceived themselves rather overweight, and held a lower satisfaction level about their physical construction. While the Korean female college students showed low satisfaction level about specific bodily parts, they held a normal level of satisfaction about their physical construction as a whole. It is noteworthy that more Chinese respondents generally held lower satisfaction impressions about their physical construction than their Korean counterparts. It is needed to different merchandising project for export clothing in China.

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근대주의 건축에서 모더니티 표상의 문제 - 장식의 배제와 표면의 부각을 중심으로 - (Presentation and Representation of Modernity in Modern Architecture - On Exclusion of Ornament and Emergence of the surface -)

  • 강혁
    • 건축역사연구
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    • 제15권4호
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    • pp.37-56
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    • 2006
  • Introducing International Style, P. Johnson and H. R. Hitchcock gave three standards to be the Modern, volume and surface, regularity, and exclusion of applied decoration. In spite of the negation of stylistic, formal approach in the Modernist Manifestoes, one usually have understood Modernity in Architecture with its formal character, especially with no ornament and flat, abstract, white surface. Modernism as a new paradigm in architecture have emphasized that there is no representation of anything outside and only present architecture in itself. They said that Modernism only cared about the language of Architecture without figural reference. So apparently there is no way to prove to its Modernity with formal condition. Modernity is in Spirit and contents. But actually we understand well its existence by visual communication This study deals with this difficult situation how Modernity represents itself without visual media and asks the question how simultaneously it presents its thingness and materiality In order to analyse contradictory situation between representation and presentation in Modern Architecture we need to survey the historical process of changing position of ornaments and its meaning in time. With the crisis of representation the role of ornament have seriously changed and divided. It caused the two situation in pre-Modern Architecture. Firstly, Architecture tend to be a high art and formal expression became important much more. The Use of Ornament became a kind of fashion to show the power, class, money. Secondly, Ornament lost its cultural weight and the structure and material aspect became the central in architecture. Rational Structuralism would be the essential character in Modern Architecture. Here the theory of G. Semper and A. Loos on cladding(dressing) and Ornament can help its problems and limits. In the situation without conventional ornament Modernists need to present modernity with new media that only show the thing itself and by that it does not represent any thing else as like the value, idea outside buildings. They believed that only it concerned esthetics and morality in architecture. But in reality it referred to art and machines as like ships, aircraft, and cars. By excluding Ornament and showing the process of clearing, abstract, flat, white surface 'represent' Modernity by the indirect way referring the concept of transparency, reason, sanitation, tectonics, etc. An Ideology and myth intervened architectural discourse to make the doxa about the representation in Architecture. Surface must be a different kind of media and message that can communicate in different way with compared to conventional Ornament. Decorated Shed by R. Venturi and Post-Functionalism by P. Eisenman, that are the most famous post-modern discourse, shows well difficult and contradictory condition in contemporary architecture concerning representation and form, meaning and form.

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감마선조사에 의한 돼지 피부장애에 cyclooxygenase-2의 발현변화 (Gamma-ray-induced skin injury in the mini-pig: Effects of irradiation exposure on cyclooxygenase-2 expression in the skin)

  • 김중선;박선후;장원석;이선주;이승숙
    • Journal of Radiation Protection and Research
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    • 제40권1호
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    • pp.65-72
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    • 2015
  • 방사선 노출에 따른 피부손상의 기본이론들은 정립되어 있지만, 정확한 기전에 관해서는 알려지지 않은 실정이다. 본 연구에서는 감마선 조사 후 용량 및 시간에 따라 돼지 피부의 장애를 육안 및 조직학적인 변화를 통해 평가하고 cyclooxygenase(COX)-2 발현 정도를 비교하고자 하였다. 미니돼지의 등 쪽 피부에 20-70 Gy 감마선을 국소조사 후 12 주 동안 육안적인 변화를 관찰하고 생검을 통해 조직학적인 변화를 관찰하였다. 방사선 조사 후 피부의 기저세포층에서의 세포자멸사와 표피층의 두께 변화를 평가하였고 COX-2 발현 정도를 면역염색을 통하여 비교하였다. 방사선 조사 후 피부 장애는 용량이 증가할수록 피부손상이 더욱 심하였으며 초기에 발적 소견을 보이다가 50 Gy 이상 조사군에서는 미란과 궤양으로 이어졌다. 조직학적인 변화는 육안적인 소견과 일치하였다. 방사선 조사 후 3일부터 기저세포에서 세포자멸사가 관찰되었으며 기저세포수의 감소가 유발되었으며 이러한 변화는 용량이 증가할수록 더욱 증가하였다. 방사선 조사 후 표피층의 두께는 3일 무렵에 일시적으로 증가하다가 점차 감소하였으며 20, 30, 40 Gy 조사 군에서는 다시 회복되는 소견이 관찰되었으나 50, 70 Gy 조사 군에서는 다시 회복되지 못하고 표피창의 두께 소실을 보였다. 방사선 조사 후 피부에서의 COX-2 발현은 피부손상정도와 일치하게 관찰되었다. 방사선 조사 후 COX-2 발현은 방사선의 용량이 증가할수록 발현이 증가하였고 시간이 증가할수록 증가하였다. 이러한 조직학적인 변화와 함께 방사선 손상을 일으키는 신호전달에 관여하는 COX-2 발현이 방사선조사 용량에 비례하여 증가하며 이러한 단백질의 발현은 피부손상과 관련성이 높은 것으로 사료된다.

미용관련 대학생들의 대학생활적응에 영향을 미치는 변인 (A Study of Influential Variables on Adaptation to College life among College Students from Cosmetology-related Departments)

  • 유은주;김순구;심선녀
    • 디지털융복합연구
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    • 제11권11호
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    • pp.633-642
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    • 2013
  • 본 연구는 부산지역에 소재하는 미용관련대학 재학생 366명을 대상으로 변인들 간의 상관관계를 알아보고, 대학생활 적응에 미치는 변인들의 영향을 파악하고자 하였다. 첫째, 학교생활스트레스가 하위영역 중 우울과는 정적 상관이 있었고 대학생활적응과는 부적상관이 있었다. 사회적 지지가 많을수록 자기효능감과 대학생활에 적응도가 높은 반면 우울은 낮았다. 자기효능감은 우울과 부적상관이 있으며 학교생활적응과는 정적상관이 있었다. 둘째, 또래지지와 교수지지가 높을수록, 학업문제와 가치관문제가 적을수록, 우울이 낮을수록 학교생활에 적응을 잘하는 것으로 나타났다. 셋째, 변인들의 영향력 중 학업적응의 영향은 학업문제 변인의 영향력이 가장 높았다. 사회적 적응의 영향은 또래지지의 설명력이 가장 높았다. 정서적 적응과 신체적 적응의 영향은 우울의 설명력이 가장 높았다. 대학애착의 영향은 교수문제의 설명력이 가장 높았다.