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Name Review, and Production Method of Pyeongjeongmo, Housed by the National Palace Museum of Korea (국립고궁박물관 소장 평정모(平頂帽)의 명칭 검토와 제작방법)

  • Lee, Eun-Joo;Jin, Duk-Soon;Lee, Jeong-Min
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.51 no.2
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    • pp.4-21
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    • 2018
  • This paper reviewed the legitimacy of the name of those sixteen pieces of hat artifacts known in Korean as pyeongjeongmo and currently housed by the National Palace Museum. This was undertaken in order to rectify the error of calling them pyeongjeongmo. Also, the paper suggested pyeongjeongmo's production method to apply representation of the artifacts or production of Joseon officials' hats as representation of ritual costumes in the royal court. The name pyeongjeongmo originated from pyeongjeonggeon. Gyeongguk Daejeon recorded that noksas wore yugak-pyeongjeonggeon and seoris wore mugak-pyeongjeonggeon, but the pyeongjeongmo artifacts housed in the National Palace Museum have been found irrelevant to those pyeongjeonggeons put on by both noksas and seoris. Rather, they has been confirmed as corresponding to dugeon or jogeon worn by byeolgams or suboks who served at the palace of the crown prince or princess. Through the investigation of the artifacts, the researchers could find out the tailoring and sewing methods, the finished look, and the folding manner of pyeongjeonggeon. Although the structure of pyeongjeonggeon was generally consistent, the frontal look was slightly different depending on the folding manner, resulting in three distinguished types of pyeongjeonggeon. Regardless, the pyeongjeongmo was made with one piece of fabric by a flat tailoring and folding method to create a three-dimensional hat. The finished shape appeared low in the front and high in the back side structure. The head girth was 55~59 cm, and the height was 19.4~21.5 cm. To make it with one piece of fabric, the head girth part was tailored in the same direction as the strands. Based on the artifact Changdeok 23820, this paper has also suggested a finished reproduction through the processes of preparing the materials, mounting, making the center ornaments, sewing and folding. The tailoring was completed with black silk fabric which was cut in a unique shape designed in advance, and hemp fabric which was mounted to the former. The top part of the head was finished with black threads, and the center line at the back was fixed with decolored cotton threads by blanket stitches with 3.5~4 cm intervals. Bamboo strands were inserted in the inside of the front-folded part, which then was fixed by patterned stitches with white cotton thread. At the back, a small bamboo clasp was attached so that one can lock it to the headband and prevent it from falling off.

Comparison of Anti-thrombosis, Antioxidant and Anti-diabetes Activities amongDifferent Cultivars of Hibiscus cannabinus L. Seeds (케나프 품종별 종자 추출물의 항혈전, 항산화, 항당뇨 활성의 비교)

  • Lee, Yun-Jin;Kang, Deok-Gyeong;Kim, Ji-Min;Kim, Young-Min;Sohn, Ho-Yong
    • Journal of Life Science
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    • v.32 no.8
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    • pp.633-640
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    • 2022
  • Recently, kenaf (Hibiscus cannabinus L.) has been highlighted due to its rapid growth in dry, infertile land and its versatile applications in textiles, paper, feed, food, medicine, and phyto-remediation. In Korea, a new cultivar, 'Jangdae', which has the merit of feasible seed-gathering, was established in 2013. However, most of the kenaf seeds used are still imported, and a comparison study of useful bio-activities between Jangdae and imported seeds has not been conducted. In this study, anti-thrombosis, antioxidant and anti-diabetic activities of the ethanol extracts of the Jangdae seed (E-JS) and 8 imported cultivar seeds (E-ICS) were investigated. The E-JS has 14.4 mg/g of total polyphenol and 5.3 mg/g of total flavonoids, whereas the E-ICS has 5.9~8.7 mg/g and 0.7~1.5 mg/g, respectively. Among the 9 kenaf seed extracts, IT 181215 and IT 207877 seed extracts showed 1.92 and 1.88-folds extended thrombin time (TT), and IT 207886 seed extracts showed 3.04-folds extended activated partial thromboplastin time (aPTT). All extracts, except Hong-ma seed, showed 1.36~1.56-folds extended prothrombin time (PT). The E-JS showed strong anti-thrombosis activities with 1.46-folds (TT), 1.38-folds (PT) and 2.37-folds (aPTT) compared to those of solvent controls. The E-JS has the strongest antioxidant activities among the seed extracts, with 0.48 mg/ml of RC50 for ABTS cation and 0.27 mg/ml of RC50 for nitrite scavenging. Meanwhile, the E-JS and IT 181215 extracts showed strong inhibition against α-glucosidase with 10.3~10.6% inhibition at 0.5 mg/ml. Our results suggest the E-JS has potential as an anti-thrombosis, antioxidant and anti-diabetic agent.

A Study on the Excavated Sab(a funeral fan) from Lime-filled Tomb and Lime-layered Tomb during the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 회격·회곽묘 출토 삽(翣)에 대한 고찰)

  • Yi, Seung Hae;An, Bo Yeon
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.41 no.2
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    • pp.43-59
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    • 2008
  • Sap(?, a funeral fan) is a funeral ceremonial object used in association with a Confucian ceremonial custom, which was crafted by making a wooden frame, attaching a white cloth or a thick paper onto it, drawing pictures on it, and making a holder for a handle. According to Liji(Records of Rites), Sap was used since the Zhou Dynasty, and these Chinese Sap examples are no big different than the Korean Sap examples, which were described in Joseon Wangjo Sillok(Annals of the Joseon Dynasty), Gukjo Oryeui(the Five Rites of the State), and Sarye Pyeollam(Handbook on Four Rituals). This study explored Sap excavated in lime-filled tombs and lime-layered tombs of aristocrats dating back to Joseon, as well as their historical records to examine Sap's characteristics according to their examples, manufacturing methods, and use time. The number and designs of Sap varied according to the deceased' social status aristocrats used mainly one pair of 亞-shaped Bulsap, and a pair of Hwasap with a cloud design depicted on it. A Sap was wrapped twice with Chojuji paper or Jeojuji paper, and for the third time with Yeonchangji paper. Then, it was covered with a white ramie, a hemp, a cotton, a silk satin, etc. Bobul(an axe shape and 亞-shape design) was drawn on both sides of Sap, and a rising current of cloud was drawn at the peripheral area mainly with red or scarlet pigments. Sap, which were excavated from aristocrats'lime-filled and lime-layered tombs, are the type of Sap which were separated from its handle. These excavated Sap are those whose long handles were burnt during the death carriage procession, leaving Sap, which later were erected on both sides of the coffin. The manufacturing process of excavated relics can be inferred by examining them. The excavated relics are classified into those with three points and those with two points according to the number of point. Of the three-point type(Type I), there is the kind of relic that was woven into something like a basket by using a whole wood plate or cutting bamboo into flat shapes. The three-point Sap was concentrated comparatively in the early half of Joseon, and was manufactured with various methods compared with its rather unified overall shape. In the meantime, the two-point Sap was manufactured with a relatively formatted method; its body was manufactured in the form of a rectangle or a reverse trapezoid, and then its upper parts with two points hanging from them were connected, and the top surface was made into a curve(Type II) or a straight line(Type III) differentiating it from the three-point type. This manufacturing method, compared with that of the three-point type, is simple, but is not greatly different from the three-point type manufacturing method. In particular, the method of crafting the top surface into a straight line has been used until today. Of the examined 30 Sap examples, those whose production years were made known from the buried persons'death years inscribed on the tomb stones, were reexamined, indicating that type I was concentrated in the first half of the $16^{th}$ century. Type II spanned from the second half of the $16^{th}$ century to the second half of the $17^{th}$ century, and type III spanned from the first half of the $17^{th}$ century to the first half of the $18^{th}$ century. The shape of Sap is deemed to have changed from type I to type II and again from type II to type III In the $17^{th}$ century, which was a time of change, types II and III coexisted. Of the three types of Sap, types II and III re similar because they have two points; thus a noteworthy transit time is thought to have been the middle of the $16^{th}$ century. Type I compared with types II and III is thought to have required more efforts and skills in the production process, and as time passed, the shape and manufacturing methods of Sap are presumed to have been further simplified according to the principle of economy. The simplification of funeral ceremonies is presumed to have been furthered after Imjinwaeran(Japanese invasion of Joseon, 1592~1598), given that as shown in the Annals of King Seonjo, state funerals were suspended several times. In the case of Sap, simplification began from the second half of the $16^{th}$ century, and even in the $18^{th}$ century, rather than separately crafting Sap, Sap was directly drawn on the coffin cover and the coffin. However, in this simplification of form, regulations on the use of Sap specified in Liji were observed, and thus the ceremony was rationally simplified.