• 복식
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• 제61권6호
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• pp.131-145
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide preliminary data on strategies to create a domestic prestige brand based on Korean traditional designs. This study also deals with how to promote this brand around the world. The two points mentioned above will be accomplished by examining the characteristics of the brand '3.1 Phillip Lim' which succeeded in both design and marketing during a short period of time. The method of the study will be followed. Firstly, the basic design and philosophical background of Phillip Lim was investigated, after reviewing the global luxury market and current status of overseas expansion of Korean designers through paper study and antecedent workups. Secondly, for the practical stage, design characteristics and marketing strategies were reviewed with the collections of '3.1 Phillip Lim'. Three factors found in '3.1 Phillip Lim's design success are as follows: First, practical and simple designs using fabrics of high quality. Second, handcraft elements and interesting details that differentiates his design identity. Third, femininity expressed in the feminine silhouette and color. The marketing elements that made '3.1 Phillip Lim' as a successful brand are: First, differentiated positioning as a luxurious contemporary brand. Second, brand promotion through various collaborations. Third, the gradual expansion of women's, men's, kids' apparel to accessory, lingerie and the stable flagship stores. Thus, '3.1 Phillip Lim' has combined modern and classic styles using high quality fabrics and practical designs with unique details. Through it's differentiated marketing strategy targeting New York's market, which prefers popular 'luxury contemporary brand's rather than high-end luxury brands, this brand's creativity and commercial aspects contributed to make '3.1 Phillip Lim' into a luxury brand that represents New York fashion. Korean designers who seek to enter the global fashion industry should consider applying Korean traditional designs on global designs to make favorable products and localize these products according to regional characteristics.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.119-130
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• 1998

스웨덴의 현대 디자인은 열강의 틈바구니에서 민족적 정체성을 확립하고 복지사회 모델을 확립하려는 노력의 일환으로서 발전하였다. 따라서 그러한 사회적·사상적 기반을 충분히 이해하지 않은 채 표면에 드러난 형태만으로 스웨덴 디자인을 이해하고자 할 경우에는 피상적 서술에 그치기 쉽고, 그들이 왜 세계 디자인의 중요한 하나의 흐름이 되는지 이해하지 못하게 된다. 1930년대부터 1970년대까지 40여 년간은 전통적인 농업 국가였던 스웨덴이 당시 집권당이었던 사회민주당의 사회개혁 정책을 통해 근대화에 성공하고 문화적으로도 그 역량을 전세계에 떨쳤던 시기였다. 본 연구에서는 이러한 발전과정이 스웨덴 현대 디자인 형성에 미친 영향을 살펴보고자 한다. 또한 수 공예 전통을 효율적으로 대량생산 체제에 부합시킴으로써 민족적 주체성을 확립하려 했던 당시의 스웨덴 지식인들과 디자인 계의 동향을 함께 분석함으로써 근대화 과정에서 스웨덴 디자인이 지향했던 바를 종합적으로 파악하고자 했다. 비교적 모범적으로 근대화에 성공하고 독특한 디자인 스타일을 만들어낸 나라로 평가되고 있는 스웨덴의 사례는 우리에게 시사하는 바가 적지 않을 것이다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2014

Hundertwasser's paintings have the characteristics in his works continue to emerge organical spirals, geometric pattern of squares, mysterious and gorgeous colors. This study by applying them, it has been purposed of expansion of representation outstanding artistic formative knitwear by using yarn of various textured fabrics and leather, felt, beads of the materials. The methods of this study are through the analysis of literature of Hundertwasser's paintings and art world and formative traits. It has been studied the literature of the theoretical background on general examination of knitwear and knit, felting, needle punching techniques. Conclusions from this study are as follows: The first, It could know the organic spirals and geometric square patterns and gorgeous colors of Hundertwasser's paintings are suitable as a decorative and rich motif of knitwear design. The second, It was possible unique and various texture expression of decorative patterns of Hundertwasser's paintings by expressing variety of materials of knit, felt and fabric, leather, beads. The third, It was expressed knitwear of unique texture to express Hundertwasser's image of the painting by using hand knitting, felting, needle punching, patchwork, beading of complex techniques. The forth, It was reflected well Hundertwasser's idea which was affected nature and art nouveau that all production processes are composed of handcraft techniques. It was suitable to express the naturalness of hand knit and not mechanical or artificial image. The fifth, It was analyzed lines and patterns of Hundertwasser's painting. The spiral is simultaneously constituted curve shape and area that square patterns also have devided area.

• 복식
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• 제22권
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• pp.263-276
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• 1994

The achievement of notable social reoforms attained during the period of 19th and 20th centuries needlessly speaking remodelded the social environmental into several different patterns such as :1) high industrialization 2) propensity to consume 3) up graded overall social stands. Accordingly the industrial world of the but-tons too established the mess production syhstem by breaking from convention of hand-craft work of 17th century. The raw materials used in the production line on buttons during the 20th century are almost all-kind of materials one can possibly named including cheap plastic which enabled production lines to produce cheaper but higher productivities of the buttons being produced, The design (incused design) used in the 19-20h centuries are : men landscape, sports features, birds, livestocks, bugs, or geomatric features, tec, 1, The classification o f the buttons by materials Techniques shapes colors marking (Incused design) used in the productionof buttons in the England United States of America Laska Italy france Denmark Japan and India are categolizzed as : natural raw materials and syntetical resines. 1) Of the natural raw materials used are : Matal Enamel Iodine Agate, Coral, Green jade(Jasper) Granite, Wood, Ivory, Horn and bone etc. 2) The sythetical resin used in the button in-dustries are : Artificial jewell glass Acrylic material Styroform Celluloid and Nylon etc. 2. The thecnique quoted in producing buttons are hand craft work inlay work precision casting press mosic dye etching, processing, engraving and embossed carving etc. 3. The major designs used in the buttons in -dustries are : Round shape however elliptical column angular and edge shape often used. 4. The colors used are : The multi-colors were highly used than mono-colored materials such as : Adjoining Color and Contrast Color. The highest consideration to be considered in choosing the colors for the buttons are harmonization and matching factor with the garment or dresses to be wore. 5. The major design(incused design) on the buttons are embodiment and the design were also used in order of abstractive-combination abstractive with has offers much surprising. The button industries during the 19th and 20th centuries were not only the determination factors those can judge the value of self-pride of Nation and which were far beyond the in-dustrial arts in those days but also highly refelected and influenced by cultural sense ideology and self-pride of the Nation of those period. The followings are details of the role of the buttons categolized in the order of functional ornamental and symbolical aspects : 1. The functional role : The functional role of the buttons were simply designed for dress how-ever the buttons beyond from this role of function now a days. 2. The ornamental role : The ornamental role of he button beyond from this role of the button were effectuated by : 1) shape materials colors 2) technique locations size and design (incused design) 3) The ramaterials used for buttons shall not be over looked because it is highly depends on the taste sense and combination of harmony with the garment to be wore. 4) The color of the buttons are made well contrasted with the color of garments just as in the case of other artistical area such as matchs with the color of garment of contrast with brigtness of colors contrasted as complementary color and so and so. 5) The technique being adoped are: precision casting press handcraft inlay work etching mosic etc,. Since the buttons are no longer a simple catching devise used to fasten together the different part of the dress but now it has formed own and occupied the independent role in the garment or dresses location can be de-termined and varying depending on the ideas of designers. The size of the buttons has no specific limits, However the variation has widely dependined on the entire circumperence rhythm contrast harmonization of the garments. 3. The symbolical role : Since the button is no longer a just a simple devise for catching and fastening device used fastening together the different part of the garments but now were built a independent area as major part of the Garment and well reflected all kinds of occupations political background cultural as-pect etc. on the buttons. The design of buttons in the western circles are more simplified but they are polished looks and their techniques of manufacturing are comination of both machanis and handcraft. The colors used in the buttons are pretty well harmonized with garment(dress). Almost all kind of materials can be used in the but-tons however materials used in the buttons are : Bone of livestocks ivory, turtle shell are no longer used because the prevention of cruely of animal. On the contraly the level of buttons indus-try of Korea is far to reach and catch up with the level of western circles. It is highly suggested therefore the but-tons industrial field of Republic of Korea shall place and encouragement in producing beter industrial environment of the buttons based on the traditional and cultural aspect of republic of Korea to produce both manufacturing of qulified and best designed and colored buttons.

• 한국기록관리학회지
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.1-22
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• 2004

상지(桑紙)는 우리나라에서 많이 사용된 종이였음에도 불구하고 문헌에 그의 원료에 대한 기록이 거의 없다. 양잠의 원료로서의 중요성 때문이기도 하지만 닥나무와 비슷한 형태때문일 것으로 생각된다. 특히 양잠에 유리한 수종(樹種)으로 개량되면서 종이의 원료로서의 중요성을 점차 잃어서 현재는 생산되지 않는 전통종이 가운데 하나다. 본고에서는 뽕나무의 인피를 사용하여 전통상지(傳統桑紙)를 만들고 저지(楮紙)와 함께 그 물성(物性)을 비교하여 보았다. 그 결과 섬유의 형태면에서는 섬유의 길이와 넓이의 비율이 475이며, 화학적 조성에서도 리그닌의 함량이 닥나무보다 적었으므로 종이의 원료로서 매우 우수하였다. 종이의 물성도 저지와 큰 차이가 없었다. 또 종이의 보존성을 시험한 결과 $105^{\circ}C$로 72시간, 144시간을 가열한 환경에서는 상지가 저지와 비교하여 불리하였으나, 자외선이 24시간, 100시간, 200시간 조사된 환경에서는 시간이 경과될수록 변화의 폭이 적었다. 즉 오랜기간이 경과될수록 상지는 덜 노화되며, 외관상으로도 열화가 많이 진행되지 않는 훌륭한 종이임이 밝혀졌다. 특히 실험에 사용한 상피(桑皮)가 개량종임을 감안한다면, 조선조나 그 이전에 만들어진 상지는 더 품질이 좋았을 것으로 사료된다.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제31권3호
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• pp.309-318
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• 2015

조선의 18대 왕인 현종이 당시의 원로대신 이경석에게 의자와 함께 하사한 지팡이는 국가에서 관장하는 제작기법과 양식을 알 수 있는 대표적인 조선시대 공예품이다. 지팡이의 장석을 분석한 결과, 지팡이 몸통에 살포가 연결된 금속제 끝 장식은 먼저 철판을 둥글게 말아 원기둥 형태를 만들고 황동으로 도금하였다. 도금된 부분은 살포와 연결된 금속제 끝 장식에만 국한되고 있으며, 동일한 철 소재로 제작된 살포에는 도금되지 않았다. 칼장식에는 20% 내외의 아연이 포함된 황동이 그대로 사용된 반면 살포 연결부는 철판 위에 황동도금을 했다. 이는 제작당시에 칼장식과 살포 연결부의 표면 색조가 동일하였음을 의미하는 것으로 기능적인 측면에서 바탕소재를 달리할 수밖에 없는 상황에서 외견상의 조화를 추구한 결과로 추정된다. 여기에 적용된 도금법으로 수은아말감, 구리박도금, 구리분말도포, 포목상감, 용융 금속 침적 등 다양한 도금법을 고려할 수 있으며, 분석된 결과는 용융 금속을 이용한 도금법이 적용된 것으로 나타났다. 황동으로 제작된 칼코는 주석납땜으로 접합하였다. 칼날을 고정시키기 위해 사용된 리벳은 강도와 유연성을 모두 충족시킬 수 있는 최적의 소재로 순철이 사용되었다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.29-37
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• 2017

Due to the pursuit of individuality by modern consumers, the day has come when it is hard for design to be sustained solely by external beauty. Accordingly, products with the psychological value and brand stories are appearing, so that products that reinterpret traditional crafts are now being appreciated for their merits. Handmade goods defined as new luxury goods or products of high-quality craftsmanship are being used to enhance the consumer's individual image, and has created an unprecedented consumer stratum structure. Japan is one of the countries that actively applies traditional crafts to contemporary design and this study aims to investigate cases that are being reinterpreted in modern fashion in the theme of Boro, which is not as well known among Japanese traditional crafts. The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designers by investigating the cases of the reinterpretation of traditional crafts. In addition, in reinterpreting traditional crafts into other fields, it is regarded as a meaningful way to contribute to a variety of other ideas. As the research method, first, the definition and kind of Boro were investigated utilizing the related literature information about the traditional fabric of Boro, which is the starting point and basis of the research. Second, Japanese aesthetic sense defined in the previous research was classified and the relationship of the anti-decorative aesthetic sense and Boro investigated. Third, after classifying the reinterpretation cases of Boro that have appeared in four major fashion collections and designer brands from 2011 to 2016 by the selected aesthetic sense, its characteristics were investigated. The search for examples of the reinterpretation of Boro uses the results of the keyword search of Boro and Boro Fashion via the internet search engine Google from April 2016 to December 2016. In addition, the search results were selected on the basis of whether the designer specified borrowing from Boro or whether Boro on the collection order was included or not. In addition to introducing an unknown fabric craft, this study also raises the methodological problems of the reinterpretation of traditional crafts. Products containing psychological value are expected to come into the spotlight in the upcoming consumer market. Therefore, as a follow-up study, it is suggested to research examples in which various crafts are being applied as products before one knows, how this creates new originality, and the limitations involved in this.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.229-242
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• 2007

일본은 전통적으로 수공예를 대단히 존중하여 뛰어난 공예기술은 대를 이어 전수되어 오고 있다. 현대 일본의 산업직물은 이러한 전통기술을 현대 과학기술과 접목하여 현대적으로 재해석하고 재조합하여 미래와 전통의 양면가치를 표현하고 있다. 이러한 신기술과 수공예의 접목은 신기술 개발이나 디자인에 있어 다양성과 독창성을 타나내고 있어 현대 산업직물의 중요한 경향으로 부각되고 있다. 본 연구는 이 경향을 주도함으로서 현대 직물산업계에서 독자적 발전을 이룩한 일본 직물산업의 발전배경을 알아보고 이 새로운 경향이 제시한 현대 직물 개념과 조형적 혁신에 대해 고찰하여 현재와 미래의 창의적 직물 개발에 기여하고자 하였다. 본 연구 결과는 다음과 같이 된다. 신기술과 수공예의 접목 경향은 1) 일본인의 전통문화 존중 의식과 선진 섬유산업에 대한 빠른 인식이 결합되어 출현하게 된 것으로, 전통 수공예는 새로운 의미와 가치를 갖게 되어 결국 직물의 사회적 역할을 확대하였다. 2) 현대 산업직물에 요구되는 고품질, 고기능, 고감도를 위해 직물의 첨단화, 예술화, 감성화를 추구함으로서 직물의 현대적 개념을 구축하였다. 3) 산업직물에 조형적 혁신을 이루어 표현의 다양화, 재료의 다양성, 재질감의 강조로 새로운 디자인 발상과 새로운 스타일의 창조를 가능하게 하였다. 이와 같이 일본은 전통과 신기술의 접목을 시도하여 세계인이 공감할 수 있는 독자적이고 수준 높은 미를 제시함으로서 미래 직물에 대한 가장 중요한 지침을 제시하고 있다.

• 복식
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• 제6권
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• pp.121-143
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• 1982

Many studies have done on Egyptian Clothing because its unique characteristic culture. However, I was facinated by the exhibitions of Tutankhamen burial treasures which were shown in San Francisco and New York in 1978 and 1979. I found out myself that there are several interesting aspects of clothing to compare 18th dynasty king, Tutankhamun and other dynasties in Egyptian culture. Therefore, I tryed to analized the Egyptian clothing including accessaries with theigr symbols durin 18th dynasty King, Tutankhamun. The most of people were shocked and amazed when they toured the exhibition of Tutankhamun articles which were the most incredible burial treasures in existence today. The body of the King has been embalmed, bandaged and fitted in eight layers of coffins with pure gold mask to represent the god Osiris. Among eight layers of coffins, one is pure solid gold in mummiform, two of mummiforms are made of compact wood covered with sheets of gold and inlaid with multi-colored glass-paste and semi-precious stones. The Egyptian belived that the soul continued to exist throughout eternity if it had passed on examination of its deeds on earth at a "Last Judgement" presided over by Osiris. They also believed that the mummified body could exist in the tomb as a habitation that the soul could revisited. Thus a proper burial was vital for a full existence in the hereafter. They buried dead person in the sealed vault of the tomb with some of the possessions he had used during his life time, such as his furniture, clothing and jewels. In this studies, I've tried to research to various clothings, and accessories with their symbols used during 18th dynasty king, Tutankhamun. The studies are shown as: I) Clothings of Tutankhamun dynasity of Kalasiris, Sheath skirt. Gala skirt, Loin skirt, Hike and Dalmatic. The Dalmatic was first seen in this dynasty. Probably the Roman Christian borrowed the Dalmatica from Egyptian Dalmatic. No where has the same design at the period. II) Egyptian of 18th dynasty Tutankhamun wore big headdress, broad collar necklace passium, pendants, armlets, rings and earrings with very beautiful, exquisite handcraft. They seem the first people who wore earrings in Egyptian history. III) The symbols of decorated items vulture, lotus...Upper Egypt Uraeus, papyrus...Lower Egypt scaravaeus, Nile Riber...rebirth man(Ankh), +...eternal life solar disc, gold...sun ostrich-feather...nobleness God, Horus' eye...protection against enemy IV) Also Egyptian prefered the straight line and a right angle which were the basic principles of architectural arrangement.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.15-34
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• 2001

Ornaments are accessories for the decoration of the body or dress. They aren't unavoidably required one, but serve to make one's dress perfect as decorative industrial art objects. In Morocco, ornaments were initially used as a sign of social position or the class or an incantatory symbol. In effect, they were originally employed to adjust one's dress, not just for decoration, and they were of use for household economy. Gold, silver and handcraft available for exchange were a means of increasing one's property and an indication of social standing and wealth. In particular, the dress and jewelry of a bride was a measure of her family's wealth, regarded as a symbol of her chastity and value. The ornaments symbolically back up people's faith in supernatural power, and their real value is based on implicit form or way of decoration, not the external shape. Specifically, there is a tendency to use the form of animal as a protector, not one to frighten people. In the artistic tradition of Morocco, fish pattern stands for water and rain, and eagle and bird are considered to be related to fate. Scorpion and lizard are depicted as an inquirer of sun, and snake is a symbol of abundance and sexual instinct, being viewed to have an ability to cure disease. Turtle pattern is a symbol of saint because it protects one from the evil. The ornaments are made of gold, silver, amber, clam, garnet, glass, nielle, enamel, glaze, coral or tree, and symbolic patterns are used, including hand(a symbol of five numerals), turtle, lizard, scorpion, eye, triangle, bird and eggs. They are very big and diverse, being categorized into ornaments for the head or the chest, neckless, fibula, earring, bracelet and ring. For Moroccans, make-up is a sort of instinctive behavior to meet aesthetic and sexual desire. They also wear make-up for practical purpose of protection, intentionally inflict a wound on the skin for ceremonial or religious purpose, paint the skin with pigment, or have the part of the body tattooed for incantatory purpose. All this actions are regarded as make-up. The raw material of cosmetics is aker, a vegetable dye. They get the lips or cheeks turn red and paint eyebrows with yellow saffran powder to have a bad devil lose its strength. Tattooing is mainly done by women and viewed as a sign of their value or social organization they belong to. Sometimes that is used to represent a woman's being old enough to marry or getting married already or the frequency of marriage. Besides, tattoo is believed to prevent or remedy loose bowels or cough, depending on its location or pattern, and they often change tattoo according to the change of beauty art.