• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.277-289
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to develop naturalistic knit designs inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand's works. For this purpose, we examined the present style of naturalism and history of naturalism though literature research, and then developed designs. The results are as follows: First, as scientific realism originated from a philosophical concept was adopted in literature and other genres, its meanings have been altered and comprehensively expanded according to the genres of which the term is being used. Naturalism of the modern times carries strong message of ecology and environmental protection. Second, the modern naturalism in fashion is manifested in expressing the image of nature and plasticity, instead of a mere use of the natural materials. As the aspects of ecology become more significant, elements of retro, recycle, or grunge are additionally integrated in fashion. Third, Naturalism expressed in knitwear is similar with that of other clothing in terms of color and textile, however, silhouette in knitwear is unique in its general naturalness and flowing effects. Embroidery, knitting of Jacquard and Intarsia, or crochet is used to express forms of objects from nature. Visual effects regardless of the contents of yarn, and pattern effects after knitting by using yarn, have influences on the material. Forth, the eight knit designs in expressing naturalism presented in this study took a motif from the works of Yann Arthus-Bertrand. They were created by rendering rhythm of the landscape with emphasis on brown color. Contour and surface touch were expressed through yarn and the structure of knit.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.415-420
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• 2004

The market demand for knitwear has been increased both domestically and in export. Despite of the high and consistent demand, knitwear design has been rather simple and tends to show mainly foreign influences. In order to compete efficiently in the world market and to provide more variety, knitwear design originated from our cultural background needs to be developed. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to develop various knitwear design adopting the Korean traditional 'Danchung' motifs and the main colors used in the motifs. Three knitwear works were designed and constructed, which included a round pullover, a half-sleeve V-neck one-piece dress, and an evening dress. The mainly used motifs consisted of natural motifs such as lotus, cloud, and motifs symbolizing good luck such as 壽 and 囍. The Original 'Dan-chung' motifs were stylized into different forms and colors, and this design work was done using CAD system including the 'Adobe Illustrator 9.0' and the '4D box Hi-Knit Program'. Based on the designed images created by the CAD system, an actual design works were knitted using different weft knit methods including a hand knitting machine and weft knit machine of the knitwear manufacturers. This study provided the possibility of knitwear design originated from the Korean traditional culture.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.114-123
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• 2014

This research investigated the physical properties of PET coolness filaments and their knitted fabrics including dyeing characteristics of these knitted fabrics according to the different dyeing time and temperature. The coolness filament(S) with non-circular cross-section and hydrophilic property was spun and another commercialized coolness(A) and regular(R) PET filaments were prepared for comparing coolness and another physical properties. Qmax of coolness knitted fabric made with S filament was higher than that of R-PET filament, and the maximum value of Qmax of S knitted fabric was shown at the dyeing conditions of temperature, $110^{\circ}C$ with 30 min. or 40min. It was shown that hand of S knitted fabric was a little harsh comparing to A and regular knit specimens, but shape retention and wearing performance of garment made with S knit specimen were estimated as good owing to high bending and shear rigidity. K/S of S knitted fabric was higher than those of regular PET and A knit specimens. Dyeing fastness of coolness knitted fabric showed between 4th and 5th grade.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2014

Hundertwasser's paintings have the characteristics in his works continue to emerge organical spirals, geometric pattern of squares, mysterious and gorgeous colors. This study by applying them, it has been purposed of expansion of representation outstanding artistic formative knitwear by using yarn of various textured fabrics and leather, felt, beads of the materials. The methods of this study are through the analysis of literature of Hundertwasser's paintings and art world and formative traits. It has been studied the literature of the theoretical background on general examination of knitwear and knit, felting, needle punching techniques. Conclusions from this study are as follows: The first, It could know the organic spirals and geometric square patterns and gorgeous colors of Hundertwasser's paintings are suitable as a decorative and rich motif of knitwear design. The second, It was possible unique and various texture expression of decorative patterns of Hundertwasser's paintings by expressing variety of materials of knit, felt and fabric, leather, beads. The third, It was expressed knitwear of unique texture to express Hundertwasser's image of the painting by using hand knitting, felting, needle punching, patchwork, beading of complex techniques. The forth, It was reflected well Hundertwasser's idea which was affected nature and art nouveau that all production processes are composed of handcraft techniques. It was suitable to express the naturalness of hand knit and not mechanical or artificial image. The fifth, It was analyzed lines and patterns of Hundertwasser's painting. The spiral is simultaneously constituted curve shape and area that square patterns also have devided area.

• 복식
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• 제58권1호
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• pp.1-8
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to investigate the mechanical properties and hand values of polypropylene knit and to analyze its color-fastness for light, laundering and abrasion, comparing to nylon and polyester knits. The results of this study were as follows: 1. Polypropylene stretched more with less force than nylon and polyester and its elastic recovery and shape stability were better than nylon and polyester. 2. Polypropylene was more flexible than nylon and polyester. 3. Polypropylene stretched more easily for shearing but its recovery from shearing was less than nylon and polyester. 4. Polyester had smoother surface than nylon and polyester. 5. Polypropylene was compressed more easily than polyester with less force but less than nylon. Its recovery from compression was more than nylon and polyester. 6. Polypropylene had lower KOSHI and SHARI values and higher FUKURAMI value than nylon and polyester. It had better T.H.V. value than nylon but less than! polyester. 7. Color fastness of polypropylene for lanudering, light, and abrasion in wet and dry conditions was good except polypropylene dyed with red color.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.99-106
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• 2007

In this study, the mechanical properties related to the fabric appearance of well being functional bamboo knitted fabric before and after loess dyeing were evaluated. The mechanical properties of fabrics were measured by KES-F system, that is, shape retention, draping, wrinkle recovery, compression property, and surface properties, and total hand value of three types of knitted fabric, 100% bamboo, 100% cotton, and bamboo / cotton blend (60 / 40) were evaluated before and after loess dyeing. As a result, it was found that appearance density, shape retention, and drape coefficient of cotton knitted fabric were greater than those of bamboo knitted fabric. After loess dyeing, shape retention and drape coefficient, wrinkle recovery of bamboo knitted fabric improved and WC/C and MMD/SMD decreased. According to THV, the hand of bamboo/cotton blend knit is the best among three samples by compensation the weak properties of the two fiber. Therefore, loess dyeing seemed to be a good method for improving shape retention and hand value of 100% bamboo and bamboo blended fabric.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.275-281
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate hand and sensibility of PET treated by Ultra-Violet (UV). The 4-channel PET knit fabric was treated by a self-made UV instrument in 5cm distance with different time frames-0min, 30min, and 90min. For hand evaluation, mechanical properties were measured by the KES-FB system. The environmental condition was controlled at 29$^{\circ}C$, 75% (R.H.)-summer standard climate. Twenty female students evaluated 'roughness', 'smoothness', 'wetness', 'stiffness', 'coolness', 'touch', 'preference', and 'comfort'. The outcomes of the experiment are as follows: The surface roughness of mechanical properties showed significant differences and the value of PET irradiated by UV for 90min was highest. The order of primary hand value such as NUMERI and FUKURAMI was in a following order-Untreated > 30min treated > 90min treated. Total hand value showed that PET irradiated by UV for 90min was appropriate for using summer fabric. The results of subjective sensibility were that the untreated and 30min treated PET were recognized as similar and had a good evaluation on 'comfort', 'preference' and 'the sense of touch'. This consequence disagreed with total hand value, because it was considered that subjects' hand sensibility was dependent on the feel of smoothness.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.111-121
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• 2004

The influence of the 'well-being' trend on the every day life of our society can be found by recent books, articles, and magazines. The purpose of this study is to analyze the well-being trend and its effect on the current knitwear fashion. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; (1) The 'well-being' trend is very different from the past life style and it will be a preceding life style in 21st century. (2) The preference for organic food and the promotion of 'colorful menu' came from the 'well-being' trend. And, the yoga, zen, meditation, aroma-therapy, spa, and massage are also under the influence of 'well-being' trend. (3) The Neo-Hippie look and Neo-Vintage look are connected with the 'well-being' trend. (4) The influences of 'well-being' trend on the current knitwear fashion are shown in the hand knitting (bulky knit & crochet), twin sets including cardigans, hand crafted details, natural colors, and natural materials.

• 복식
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• 제45권
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• pp.85-102
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the origins of knitwear the history of patterned knits. Aithough historians know little about the origins of knitting many believe it was practiced as early as the 4th century by nomads roaming North Africa. later Arab raders adopted the craft which helped then while away the hours as they traveled across deserts in camel carabans, Its origins lie in the need for close-fitting and elasticated covering for the body in particular the head hand and feet. it first developed in the Mediterranean countries and later in Central and particularly Northern Europe. Early evidence of multicolored knitting is said to date back to the Egyptian Copts of 600-800 A.D. medieval knitting is developed through the Church and monastery. The increasing demand for knitted products already observable in the fourteenth and fifteenth centries and the number of preserved knitted articles increases inexcavated materialos from Europe. The improvements in technique stimulated the developement of the hand knitting industry in the early sixteenth century. The best-known source of production is the guild organization and their mass production consisted of the carpets cushion coverings and other small items for furnishing interiors but mainly of clothing. The demand for knitted goods was such that in the late sixteenth century it was mechanised, The knitting frame invented in 1589 by William Lee English priest was the most perfect machine of this period. The mass production of fully-fashioned and seamless garments in the late nineteenth and twentieth century was dangerously competitve to traditionally woven and sewn cloth in. As fashions changed knitwear has had an almost continuous ruse in public favour and the popularity of sports has encourage the fashion for flexible easy-fitting and absorbent garments.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.390-408
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• 2018

The number of hand knitters has increased dramatically in the past few years. Recently, various hand knitted items have been seen in many fashion collections. The main purpose of this study is to analyze the design features of hand knitted items in the collections from Daniela Gregis. This brand was selected because it featured knitted items in its collections every season. An empirical analysis about form, material, color and knitting technique was done for hand knitted items from Daniela Gregis' collections from 2012 S/S to 2018 S/S. The results can be summarized as follows: In terms of form, garments such as pullovers, cardigans, and shawls used basic components, and accessories such as bags, mufflers, hats, and decorative pieces had various shapes. In the material, there were many items that expressed unique textures by combining various materials such as a mix of fabric and yarn. With regards to color, orange, yellow, and red were mainly used as accent colors, and combinations of two or more colors were prominent in the items. In terms of knitting technique, the methods used in the collections were mostly simple and basic. Among various techniques, plain knitting, garter knitting, and single crochet methods were mainly used. While this study is limited to the characteristics of hand knitted items from a single brand, therefore cannot be generalized for all knit fashion, the study provides basic data that could facilitate the revitalization of the hand knitting industry and expand the application range of hand knitting techniques.