• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.390-408
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• 2018

The number of hand knitters has increased dramatically in the past few years. Recently, various hand knitted items have been seen in many fashion collections. The main purpose of this study is to analyze the design features of hand knitted items in the collections from Daniela Gregis. This brand was selected because it featured knitted items in its collections every season. An empirical analysis about form, material, color and knitting technique was done for hand knitted items from Daniela Gregis' collections from 2012 S/S to 2018 S/S. The results can be summarized as follows: In terms of form, garments such as pullovers, cardigans, and shawls used basic components, and accessories such as bags, mufflers, hats, and decorative pieces had various shapes. In the material, there were many items that expressed unique textures by combining various materials such as a mix of fabric and yarn. With regards to color, orange, yellow, and red were mainly used as accent colors, and combinations of two or more colors were prominent in the items. In terms of knitting technique, the methods used in the collections were mostly simple and basic. Among various techniques, plain knitting, garter knitting, and single crochet methods were mainly used. While this study is limited to the characteristics of hand knitted items from a single brand, therefore cannot be generalized for all knit fashion, the study provides basic data that could facilitate the revitalization of the hand knitting industry and expand the application range of hand knitting techniques.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.125-138
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• 2008

For physical and hand property evaluation of fabrics, the knitted fabrics from 11 types of machines knitting fancy yarns, boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), tamtam (M5), tubular (M6), fur 1 (M7), bead (M8), fur 2 (M9), fur 3 (M10), and ladder (M11) yarns, were prepared with 7-10 G plain stitch. Washing test and pilling test had also been carried out. For hand properties by objective sensibility evaluation, 17 items of sir mechanical properties using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System) had been measured. Then hand values of knitted fabrics were calculated with a calculation formula, namely KN-402-KT. Finally the total hand values were obtained through KN-301-WINTER. As a result of physical properties and objective evaluation for machines knitting fancy fabrics, most of them shrank in the direction of wale and course after the washing test, in which their shrinkage rate had a maximum of 3.5%. Therefore, the washing test indicated that the shrinkage ratio of knitted fabrics had a minor change. The results of the pilling test are mostly 4-5th grade, and all of the machines knitting fancy fabrics showed good results in the pilling resistance. In hand properties and objective sensibility evaluation, twisted fancy yarns, such as boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), were superior to bonding rigidity (B) and shear rigidity (G). The surface property between course and wale differs in all samples and course direction is tougher than wale direction. FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) of all samples have high values, besides NUMERI (smoothness) of tamtam (M5) and boucle (M1), which were rather good. Most samples except fur 1 (M7) had low KOSHI (stiffness) value. The total hand value (THV) of twisted yarns was low. This study proves that manufacturers, who plan knitting yarn products and knit fashion, can apply these data to develop machines knitting yarns and knits that fit the consumers' demands.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.61-73
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to create unique formative beauty with free expressive method and to suggest accessory design with individuality through this, by using hand-knitting technique in design of necklace and bangle, which belong to personal ornament among fashion accessories. It analyzed on theoretical background of knit technique and accessory through documentary research, examined the accessory design tendency and the research tendency through collection materials, and then suggested 9 works in accessory ornament design of using hand-knitting technique, based on this. The results are as follows. First, even in overseas collection, accessories in diverse materials and shapes were being show cased. Volume in necklace or bangle was indicated to be big. There were many cases of covering several items together. Second, the hand-knitting technique in originative accessory design could be confirmed to be possibly used broadly in the range of pattern and shape available for making by using yarn in diverse thicknesses with proper technique, and by transforming basic tissue according to knitting technique. Third, through the results of making ornaments in 7 necklaces and 2 bangles, the hand-knitting technique was confirmed to possibly expanding the application range of knitting technique in the accessory field, and has significance in having suggested individual accessory.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.197-206
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to dye hanji/cotton fabrics using persimmon juice and to investigate the change in the hand fabrics. Using the Kawabata Evaluation System, we have examined the changes in the physical properties, primary hand value and total hand value. The dynamic characteristics of hanji/cotton fabrics have been explored by tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. As a result, it can be seen that the linearity of load-extension and tensile resilience are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice and tensile energy is decreased in the same condition. These behaviors are shown in the compression properties. Although the mechanism of persimmon juice dyeing has been widely discussed, it means that the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffened and the elasticity is increased with the introduction of persimmon on the fabrics studied. Bending rigidity and hysteresis of the bending moment are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice. Also, Geometrical roughness, expressed in SMD is increased with increasing the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice, compared with as-received. It indicates that these results are due to the geometric structure of hanji yarn and the introduction of persimmon juice on the fabrics studied. The fullness and softness with the soft feeing are increased a little due to the tannin component of persimmon juice introduced on the fiber surface.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.442-445
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to compare the subjective fabric hand evaluation and wear comfort of PET treated by Ultraviolet and to evaluate the subjective results from the investigation of microclimate temperature. The subjective hand evaluation was performed by 20 subjects (age: 20-25) with 5-point scale questionnaires to investigate the change of PET knit fabrics treated for different times, specifically, 0, 30 and 90 minutes. The questionnaires were composite with 8 questions; roughness, smoothness, wetness, stiffness, coolness, touch, preference, and comfort. In order to evaluate sensations of wear comfort, we made garments with UV treated fabric and five female students were tested. They walked at the speed of 6.7 km/ hr for 15 minutes in an environment, which was controlled at $29^{\circ}C,\;75{\pm}5%$ RH. Before and after exercising, the microclimate under clothing and subjective wear comfort was measured. The results of subjective evaluation of fabric hand were that untreated and treated for 30 minutes PET were recognized as similar and have a good evaluation on comfort, preference, and touch. According to the result of wear comfort, clothing treated by UV for 90 minutes had the lowest value on the thermal and humidity sensations. In addition, the value of tactile and comfort sensation was the highest on the clothing treated by UV for 90 minutes. In the case of objective evaluation, PET treated for 90 minutes was the lowest on microclimate humidity. PET irradiated by UV for 90 minutes was more 'cool' in thermal sensation and more 'dry' in wet sensation. Accordingly, it was consistent with the result of subjective wear comfort.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.641-647
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the physical properties and handle of knitwears made with silver yarns. The four different knitted fabrics were made and compared: cotton(C), cotton/silver(CS), polyester(P), and polyester/silver(PS). If fabrics knitted with silver combined yarns, their electrical shield properties, UV-cut properties, anti-static properties, and air permeability were improved. As an additional effect this also improves the antibacterial properties of fabrics. It was found that overall physical properties and functional properties were improved by using silver yarn with cotton. The silver knitted fabric was found to be improved its softness and fullness hand for apparel.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.56-61
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• 1997

The silk fibroin solution was prepared and applied to the surface of fabrics for the purpose of weighting as well as a surface modification. The water-soluble fibroin solution can be obtained by dissolving the cocoon fibroin in a boiling solution of 50% calcium chloride for 60 minutes. For the fixation of a water soluble fibroin onto the fabric surface, the various methods were investigated. The fixation can be achieved on a silk fabric by the after treatment with ethanol, stannous choride and methacrylamide. On the other hand, the epichlorhydrin compound is the most promising fixation agent for a cotton fabric. As a result of the examination of property changes, the softness and crease recovery were lessened for a silk crepe fabric by treating with 1-2% fibroin solution, while those properties were improved for a silk knit fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.460-464
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• 2009

The purpose of the study was to investigate the changes of drapability and mechanical properties with folded yarn conditions. The samples were knitted 100% cotton yarn with hand-knitting machine. Mechanical properties were measured by Instron and Kawabata tester. Drapability was measured by Drapemeter. The differences in each sample were observed in the experimental results. This study showed that folded conditions were important conditions for fabric handle and properties.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.528-535
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• 2016

Two types of oleophilic acrylic prepolymers were prepared by the solution copolymerization of either ethyl acrylate (EA) or lauryl acrylate (LA) with hydroxy ethyl acrylate (HEA). For the formation of oil-absorbent materials, a mixed solution of the prepolymer and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) as a cross-linker in toluene was applied to polypropylene knit velvet fabric through the conventional pad-dry-cure procedure. The gel fraction of the crosslinked resin, EA-HEA-HDI, increased with increasing feed ratio of HEA to total acrylate or HDI concentration. The oil absorbancy and retention ratio of the prepared materials were compared according to the add-on ratio of resin to fabric, and were assessed with n-decane, toluene, soybean oil, lubricant and bunker C oil as test oils. The optimal oil absorbancy of the materials were observed at around 6% of the add-on ratio for all these oils except for soybean oil. On the other hand, the oil retention ratio increased as the add-on ratio increased. Futhermore, heavier and more viscous oil generally showed higher oil retention ratios. In addition, the oil absorbancy of the materials treated with LA-HEA-HDI resin was higher than that treated with EA-HEA-HDI resin, which showed that the acrylic resins are more absorptive with increasing length of their side alkyl chain.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.6 s.59
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• pp.934-945
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate the content and presentation style of consumer information of Korean young casual apparel brand. To collect the data for this study, the representative 25 casual brand web sites were selected, based on major search engines. In addition, to investigate exact product information, four product categories, knit shirts and casual pants for men and women, were selected and the number of products was limited as maximum 15 products per each category. A coding instrument was developed to capture the consumer information, based on the instrument by Park and Stoel(2002). The Pretest was conducted to gauge inter-coder reliability and the results showed that inter-coder reliability was highly acceptable. The results of this study were as follows. Most casual brand web sites for this study were presented well in brand and customer service information. Especially, many web sites provided various engaging information such as various events(best dresser contest, date with a star, special gift) and useful multimedia file(MP3 music file, screen saver, movie, calender). However, product information was very lack in most web sites. Especially, sizing and fitting information and textile and fabric hand information were rarely provided. Therefore, this result showed that the web sites should provide more specific product information and develop devices to get tactile sensory and experiential information for enhancement of future e-commerce of apparel products.