• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.387-410
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to approach to the internal meanings included in the Happening and the culture of hippies, by analysing the basic mental conditions in the process of the Happening. And this study was composed of the concept and the development of Happening, the characteristics of the hippies that related in the midst of the happening's background, and the formativeness between these factors and hippies'fashion. Since the happening a genre of fine arts expression attended the New School for social research in New York in 1954, Allan Kaprow direct-influenced by John Cage used the word 'Hapening'first, practicing '18 Happenings in 6 parts'at the Rueben gallery in 1959. Kaprow's 18 Happenings was one of the earliest opportunities for a wider public to attend the live events that several artists had performed more privately for various friends. Despite the very different sensibilities and structures of artist's works, artists were all thrown together by the press under the general heading of 'Happening', following Kaprow's 18 Happenings. Being considered as the root of the Happening 'Expression of Sound'of John Cage was the discovery of the exisiting thing- the Happening. Most artists were to be deeply influenced by Cage's theories and attitudes-that is, his sympathy for Zen Buddihism and oriental philosophy-and by reports of the Black Mountain events. These events would directly reflect contemporary painting and stemmed from the Futurists, Dadaists and Surrealists. And Happening's development background was based on the culture of hippies. Swinging London had been under the sway of psychedelic drugs and utopian visions of 'hippie'wave sweeping in from Califonia. This wave, which affected solid middle-class youth first and formost, began in Haight Ashbury in San Francisco. Without dwelling on the hippie movement here, it is worth nothing that it resulted from the convergence of several undercurrents : consciousness-expending drugs, the anti-Vietnam war developments, the impact of English pop groups on American music and the rise of protest songs, and finally the beatnik tradition of non-conformism. Hippie culture and its pursuit of love, peace and psychedelia was the antitheses of 1960s main street fashion. The media gave everyone with long hair the label of 'hippie', but it was always a very loose collage of attitudes and styles. The rejection of sexual taboos was conveyed by the hippie's refusal to wear. Although the bold exposure of body raised controversies because it went against the existing moral values, it has a significant implications. Psychedelics brought mind-expansion and the possibillity that modern technology (light show, synthesized electronic sounds), new fabrics or colors, and LSD could be utilized to provide an escape route from the dreariness of modern life. During the 1960s, traditional costumes, many of which had never been seen outside their native regions, became sought after and adopted in the West, initially by the young, who wanted to demonstrate their solidarity with cultures uncontaminated by mass industry. The most ardent proponents of such folk costumes were the hippies. Hippies dress was sometimes decribed as 'anti-fashion', produced by a patchwork of ragged cast-offs and flamboyant accessories, of outmoded Western dress and time-honored ethnic garments all combined, modified and permutated into variety of personal statements. 'Flower Power'became a reality. From the results of this study, we can see the expanding trend of the influence and the concept of the sew art genre 'Happening'in the formativeness as well as the fine arts field.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.151-170
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to examine the value of grotesque fashion and to predict the future fashion trend. The grotesque originates the formative art. It emerges towards of a century or transitional period in most case. In particular, it was used as the expressive method of an individual's inside and a satire on society through the work of artists in the Middle Age, the renaissance, the sym-bolism, the dadaism, the surrealism, the pop art, the technology art, and the post-modernism, etc. The grotesque in fashion is represented in the work of avant-garde fashion designers who lead the high fashion. The grotesque fashion which was combined with an image of non-formality, non-rationality, an absurdity and reality. It has been begun shape of female dress in the renaissance. Afterwards, it was represented in extremely exaggerated and distorted pop art, hippies' fashion in the 1960's. In the 1970's, it was reflected in genderless rock star and destructive punk fashion. It was also represented in the androgynous fashion which was combined with both sexes, the goth/gothic fashion which was expressed with a realistic and fanciful shape and the tattoo of skin-head in the 1980's. In the 1990's, the grungy look which was dirty and the cyber punk fashion. In general, it was also expressed by the avant-garde fashion designers. To sum up, a grotesque fashion which is expressed by experimental designers is classified into four shapes. 1, Union of some extraneous is expressed as different kinds of fashion theme, such as abnormality of texture, uses of surrealistic elements and chaos of sex. Although it appears that the abnormal union of grotesque has only discord and collision, it also shows a feeling of freedom for the tension. 2. Introduction of real and fanciful image is expressed as a cyborg, realistic description of disgusting animal skin and aggressive shape. Especially, it is worth while to notice Tierre Mugler and Alexander Macqueen's work which expressed the shape of mingling human of Middle Age. 3. distortion or exaggeration is expressed as an unformed shape, the exaggeration of a clothing size, the abnormal exaggeration of human body and the ignorance of clothing form. 4. Introduction of a disgusting image is expressed as an extremity of reality, motifs of death, clothing material of disgusting hair and the ostentation of sex. Motto which leads modern fashion is something new and shocking. The grotesque fashion is an expression of eagerness for something new. It often show something ironic in the form of humor which is embedded in an abnormal and shocking pattern. The grotesque fashion is represented as an extreme beauty. It will stand as an important element of the future fashion and as a particular style with the change and fluidity.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.63-83
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• 2011

This study aims to prove the changes, development and social background of Korean male cosmetics over the period of 2000-2010. There were total 574 articles written about male make-up and cosmetics in Chosun Daily, Joongang Daily and Donga Daily, which are the top three Korean local daily newspapers in terms of sales revenue for that period. These articles were analyzed together with social background research from various books and daily newspapers. The analysis of articles was divided into different categories; such as foundation cosmetics, color cosmetics, hair, and the social background. It was found that the articles related to foundation cosmetics were written the most, the articles related to male appearance management were second, articles on other items including how to manage the skin being the least. As for the social background of Korean male cosmetics, first of all, a change in social recognition can be pointed out. The traditional understanding of gender roles has changed, men's appearance management has started to be regarded as a competitive talent, and at the same time, the esthetic viewpoint for men also has changed. One example is the newly made popular term, "flower-handsome man", which shows the new trend of favoring males with nice skin. Second, the expansion of mass culture can be pointed out. As consumers can get information and fashion trends easier and faster, the fashion spreads fast, and this has led to the generalization and popularization of the sense of beauty. Third, the development of scientific technology and medical science can be pointed out. Thanks to the progress in those areas. the extension of youthfulness has become possible and the cosmetics industry was also affected greatly, as shown in the market spread of functional products for anti-ageing and wrinkle control as the interest in anti-ageing has grown. There are benefits from the development of scientific technology, but the problem of environmental pollution has appeared due to machinery and industrialization and thus the issue of well-being has been raised. Rising interest in naturalism, pro-environmentalism and organic cosmetics has influenced the cosmetics industry. In addition, the quantity of ultraviolet rays exposed to our skin has increased due to the air pollution caused by the destruction of environment, leading to increased usage of sun block lotion. Lastly, the influence of consumer society and the expansion of consumerism culture can be pointed out. In the modern society, consumption acts not only as the use of products and services but it also has an important role of mediating individuals with others and the society. The market for male cosmetics has been expanding and the number of men putting on make-up has been increasing rapidly. Therefore, this study is meaningful in that the analysis of the mode of change and the social background are an essential process in order to provide a direction for the future market for male cosmetics.

• Archives of design research
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• v.18 no.1 s.59
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• pp.233-244
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• 2005

Fashion is one of the characteristics which represents the comtemporary sociocultural signifiant. A style that a certain stream of fashion brings is not just limited in fragmentary tendencies and fads. That can be a code to communicate and function as a medium in itself. Music has been displaying it's power to fashion while fashion has been exercising it's influence over the music. There is an inseparable relationship between music and fashion in terms of expressing our images of the world: fashion delivers them through visuality and music does it by sound. Both fashion and music are reflecting our society as well as they are influencing on sociocultural aspects generally. Whenever music has been changed new youth culture has been made and this culture has been expanded with forming some distinct fashion trends. The study focuses on identifying the relations between pop music and fashion styles which are occupying positions firmly on the bases of youth culture through analysing the relations between the fashion styles and music genres which are used in sub-culture groups to express their own identities and consciousness from a point of semiotics. In conclusion, subculture is the exit of their escaping from the compelling inconsistency cause by the condition of people's life and the way for them to solve through cultural sublimating for themselves. People come up with distinctive style of music and fashion to express their resistant signifie in their symbolic way. In addition, a particular music trend has much to do with a contemporary fashion style. In the relationship between music and fashion, there have been the subtle mechanism to boost and influence and some crucial similarity each other to signify inner values of the times. This study lets us realize that fashion is not only a popular style of clothes, hair, etc. at a particular time or place but also a medium to communicate and to guarantee polysemous identity by functioning as a flexible tool to exchange contemporary sociocultural meanings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.181-199
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• 1999

The industry of modern clothing has deviated from the overflow of commercialism and the standardization and nowadays is going toward pursuing art, creativity, and high added value. This trend brings the return of the natural materials from the synthetic textiles and increases the value of old and handmade fabrics. Finally, the handmade-paper, which is a natural material, comes to be reconsidered as a new material for the clothing. Therefore, as the natural materials and the manufacture of handmade clothing are rising again, the qualitative improvement and globalization of clothing industry should be first realized through the developments of creative and various clothing materials and new expressing techniques. The above investigation and study have been synthesized and analyzed as follows: First, through the study on the origin of the paper clothing, its historical background and the process of its development, we've learned these two facts following : the paper clothing of the East in the past mostly had practiced meanings. On the other hand, in the West it had meanings which were raised the artist's emotions and beauty-consciousness to the artistic level by the various kinds of expressing methods. Second, handmade-paper was manufactured by the embedding method, which mixed mulberry pulp, gauze, corn, hair, sisal, silk and so on. It was found that handmade-paper had the affluent and proper texture as the clothing material and was be able to control the clarity through the variation of thickness. It was also confirmed that the creative and original texture with hand-worked molding beauty was obtained by the use of handmade-paper. Third, when the handmade-paper is used, the molding beauty of plane, relievo, and solid can be freely pursued, and various and effective molding conformation can be constructed by the effect of superposition and repetition. Also, because the maximum discretion from the various optional manufacturing methods is allowed, the molding beauty can be maximized when the clothes are manufactured with handmade-paper. Fourth, the gauze with strong drape was combined to overcome the stiffness and the tearing of the paper. As a result, the durability and the wearability of the paper were strengthened and thus the thus the applications as the clothing material were enlarged. In conclusion, in order to enhance the value, creativity, practicality, and artistic sense of the design for modern clothing, the clothes made of handmade-paper should be more studied. Moreover, for the generalization of paper clothes, the studies on the development of practical paper with paper with water resistance, post-treatment after dyeing, flexibility, and durability should be done. I really hope that this study will be the motive to provoke the possibility of handmade-paper as new clothing material in not only practical sense but also artistic sense.

• Korean Parent-Child Health Journal
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• v.1
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• pp.75-87
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• 1998

These days social and economical changes have influence on the structure of family and the role of family members. Working mothers and widowers with children are increasing because of economical difficulties. Support from relatives are decreasing because of the conspicuous trend toward nuclear families. According to these reasons androgynous fathers are required. Today's fathers in Korea socially and culturally have learned about traditional parenting, but they are changing their fathering styles to meet the demands of the times. However they don't have their own fathering models. Therefore nurses who hold an advantageous position to teach and support from clinic have to encourage them to care their infants. The purposes of this study were to define father's care giving in infancy, understand influencing factors on fathering, and the differences between fathering and mothering, then contribute to nursing implementation for supporting fathers. This study was designed to review references about father's care giving. The results were follows: Six aspects of parent participation were direct care. indirect care, play, decision-making concerning the child, amount of time of sole responsibility for the child and overall availability to the child. Direct care involved feeding, bathing, going to child if child awakens. dressing, putting child to bed, taking child to doctor, nurse, or dentist, transporting child to and from sitter, day care, or school, washing child's hair. Indirect care involved cleaning up after child, preparing child's food, fixing child's broken playthings, washing child's clothes, arranging baby-sitting, shopping for child's toys and clothes, transporting baby-sitter to and from your home. Young fathers were gradually participating in direct care like feeding, taking child to doctor. Father's care giving stimulated mothering and promoted parent-infant relationship. Influencing factors of fathering would be divided into father characteristics, surrounding factors, infant attributes. Father characteristics were age, role perception, relationship with parent. Surrounding factors were the opportunity of early contact, support system, spouse's expectation, marital adjustment, feeding type, past experience of care giving. Infant attributes were temperament, behavior, age, sex. The differences between fathering and mothering were reviewed. Fathers were poor at care giving. but their caring was similar to mother's. This subtle difference positively worked upon infant's growth and development. On the basis of these theoretical data, nurses can empower fathers to cooperate with mothers in caring infants.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.177-183
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• 1987

The catch by the set net fishery from 1971 to 1985 were analyzed in order to reveal its fluctuation characteristics. Generally, the catch increased from 16,787M/T in 1971 to 84,103M/T in 1985 and showed maximum in 1979 with 99,475M/T of catch. This trend was mainly related to the higher production of file fish which accounts for 64% of the total catch in 1979, and the change of catch statistical classification according to the revising of fishery law in 1976. It was also closely related to the variation of the sea water temperature in coastal area. The main fishing period of the set net fishery appeared from October to November. Catch of the set net fishery was led by that in the southern coast before 1976 and by that in the eastern coast from 1977 to 1980, the tendency changed irregular from 1981. Three groups of fishes could be distinguished by principal component analysis of the annual catch. A group showing steady decreasing tendency was composed of the fishes such as whiting, sand fish, hair tail and anchovy. The another group composed of small alaska pollack, round herring, goby, gizzard shad, sand lance and file fish revaled an increasing tendency. The other fishes did not show any annual tendency.

• The Korean Journal of Health Service Management
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.75-89
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• 2007

The start point of a franchise system such as Lotteria was in 1979. Since 1990, the franchise systems in Korea have rapidly spread over all industry types. As 'Franchise Law' was enforced in 2002, the expansion of a franchise picked up its' speed. The barbers and beauty parlors business has the same expansion trend. However, there was no study about the franchise systems in the barbers and beauty parlors business. The purpose of this study was to find the goodness of fit of the structured equation model proposed and identify the significances of relationships in the variables of justice perceptions, trust, satisfactions, business performances, switching barriers, switching cost etc. This study tries to find a solution for a good development between franchisor and franchisee in the barbers and beauty parlors business in Korea. The theoretical considerations about justice of this study is limited in reciprocal relation justice and procedure justice. And it did make simplify for trust, satisfaction, business performance, switching barrier. And switching barrier did measure as dimension of switching coot. From October 26, 2005 to October 29, this study collected 250 survey questionnaires from the franchisees located in Seoul, Busan, Daegu, Ulsan, and Keoyng-Nam. In analyses of using SPSS Windows 11.0 and LISREL 8.14, this study used 208 cases because 48 cases did not response appropriately. Tn conclusions. reciprocal justice perception and procedure justice jointly determined trust. Secondly, reciprocal justice perception significantly determined satisfaction. Procedure justice perception negatively determined satisfaction, but this relationship was not significant. Thirdly, reciprocal justice perception positively influenced business performance, and procedure justice negatively influenced business performance, but the last relationship was not significant Fourthly, trust positively significantly influenced satisfaction and business performance. Fifthly, satisfaction positively influenced business performance and true determined switching barrier positively. This study shows following: firstly, a composition concept did make structural relationship and secondly, a reciprocal relation justice of a franchisor did appear as an important variable and it gives positive influence to trust, satisfactions, business performance, switching barriers of the franchisees.

• The Korean Journal of Franchise Management
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.19-29
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• 2019

Purpose: In beauty industry, service quality is very critical, because it impacts on the customer's positive attitude and behavior to the beauty salon or beauty brand. Thus, this research examines the effects of service attributes on customer satisfaction and loyalty in beauty salon. This research suggests the guidelines for how beauty salons should manage their physical environment, price policy, professional skills, and employees that improve management and business performance. Research design, data, and methodology: This study examines the structural relationship between service attributes, customer satisfaction, and loyalty. Service attributes divide into four sub-dimensions such as servicescape, price service, technical service, and employee service. In order to test the purposes of this research, research model and hypotheses were developed. All constructs were measured with multiple items developed and examined in previous studies. A total of 160 questionnaires were distributed and collected, and 150 were used for analysis except 10 that were unresponsive or unfaithful. The data were analyzed using SPSS 22.0 and SmartPLS 3.0 statistical package program. Result: The results of this research are as follows. First, all sub-dimensions of service attributes such as servicescape, price service, technical service, and employee service have significant positive impacts on satisfaction. Second, customer satisfaction have significant impact on loyalty. Conclusions: This study suggests an integrated model of the relationship that the characteristics of beauty salon service attributes affect customer loyalty through satisfaction, and suggests how to manage and allocate limited resources in the beauty industry. The findings of this research indicate that the level of customer satisfaction is shown to be increased by servicescape, technical characteristics, value of money, and human attributes. Thus, beauty salon management should focus on the relationship with their customers how to improve customer loyalty through satisfaction. The quality of beauty service influences customer's attitudes and behaviors toward beauty salon. Considering the beauty business, where the quality and customer satisfaction of beauty services are determined by the hairdresser's beauty skills,, the beauty salons must find ways to improve their skills and new trend of hair style. If beauty salon customers perceive the high quality of beauty service, they revisit beauty salon and recommend it to others.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.2
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• pp.127-139
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• 2023

In this study, minoxidil, which is well known as a pharmaceutical raw material, and diaminopyrimidine oxide (DAO), which is a cosmetic raw material, were used as active ingredients to evaluate the physical properties of niosomes and compare the skin penetrations of artificial skin. To prepare niosomes of the size of nanoparticles, a high pressure homogenization method was used, and physical properties were evaluated with a zetasizer. The particle size of the noisome including the active ingredient was measured to be 99 to 123 nm according to HLB, and the zeta potential was measured in the range of -60 to -81 mV. Through DSC (differential scanning colorimetry), it was confirmed that minoxidil, a crystalline component, was uniformly dissolved in an amorphous state in niosomes. In order to confirm and compare skin penetration, it was measured by the in vitro Franz diffusion cell method, and the niosome formulation showed 3.4 times higher penetration for minoxidil and 11.1 times higher penetration for DAO than the control gel formulation. In addition, when comparing the skin penetration of minoxidil niosome and DAO niosome, a similar trend was shown, and the penetration amount of DAO was relatively high. The shapes of the niosome formulations with different HLB values were observed using Cryo-TEM, and it was confirmed that vesicles were formed in all of them and that they were intermediate between SUV (small unilamella vesicle) and LUV (large unilamella vesicle). Through this study, minoxidil, an effective drug for hair loss, and DAO, a cosmetic raw material, can be effectively delivered to the skin by encapsulating them in a noisome formulation.