• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.12 no.6
• /
• pp.11-22
• /
• 2008

The goal of this study is to provide beauticians with the fundamental material to use effectively heat permanent wave in beauty industry as well as their customer's satisfaction. It carried out an experiment with damaged hair of a woman in her late twenties to investigate the change of physical and morphological characteristics by its water content when performing heat permanent wave. After spreading 0g, 1g, 2g, 3g, and 4g of water on damaged hair respectively, heat permanent wave was treated and the change of hair was observed. The change of physical characteristic was compared through permanent wave form of hair, tensile strength and elongation. The change of morphological characteristic was observed through Scanning Electron Microscope(SEM) and Transmission Electron Microscope(TEM). The result of experiment on the physical specificity revealed that permanent wave form was the most ideal when the water content was 2g, also 3g. Though the materials with much moisture content formed the results were not satisfied. The material with 0g of water content didn't make the wave. In terms of tensile strength and elongation, tensile strength was generally reduced as per the damaged degree of hair. On the contrary, elongation was increased. It observed the changes of morphological characteristic that the damage on hair cuticle was deepen, as its moisture content was decreased, and cuticle's surface was worn away. The observation of fine structure on hair section by transmission electronic microscope also certainly showed the result that damaged hair having experience with chemical treatment had got much damaged to hair cuticle as well as hair cortex. Generally chemical treatment makes hair damaged. Under consideration of this aspect, the ultimate goal of this thesis is to minimize the damage of hair caused by chemical treatment and get the satisfaction on the hair style. According to the result of experiment, the damaged hair whose moisture content was 3g showed the best permanent wave form.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.50 no.1
• /
• pp.11-18
• /
• 2024

Recently, there have been attempts to claim the hair moisturizing effect for a hair care product, however there has not yet been an official evaluation method because heating temperature for hair has not been established. This study was conducted to establish a quantitative evaluation for hair water content. In order to observe the behavior of water inside hair, heat was applied to hair with various temperatures using thermogravimetric dry residue. As the heating temperature increased, the amount of moisture released from the hair increased. As a result of evaluating hair using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), a unique phenomenon in which a rapid endothermic reaction occurs around 75 ℃ was observed. This phenomenon was also observed in different ethnic hair. In hair that damaged the hair cuticle barrier with oxidation and heat, this rapidly rising endothermic reaction temperature occurred at 77 ℃, which was slightly higher, and 73 ℃ was observed when this hair was applied with polar oil, conditioning polymer, or keratin protein. To determine how this reaction affects the hair surface, friction test was performed using an atomic force microscope. When heated above 75 ℃, cuticle friction increased, however when heated above 90 ℃, there was no change in hair cuticle friction. Finally, it was confirmed that around 75 ℃ is the critical temperature at which desorption of water bound to the hair occurs. It is suggested that a heating temperature of 75 ℃ is the optimal temperature for detecting and quantifying the moisture content of hair, and that approximately 10% detected at 75 ℃ can be a standard value for hair moisture content.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.26 no.4
• /
• pp.353-362
• /
• 2014

This study attempted to determine the effects of fermented green tea extracts on hair by using them in a perm. For this, hair is bleached, and then the fermented green tea extracts and water were supplied to the hair using a mist sprayer. Then the hair was permed, and hair damage was tested. Regarding hair moisture levels and wave formation, specifically, the morphological changes of hair were investigated with the Scanning Electron Microscope(SEM). The study results found the following. In terms of wave formation, the fermented green tea extract-based perm was much better than the general perm. In addition, hair bleaching was more serious in the latter. According to analysis on hair moisture using SEM, hair damage was more prevalent in the general perm as well. Therefore, it was confirmed that green tea extract-based perms cause less damage to the cuticle. In other words, the potential of fermented green tea extracts as a hair cosmetics material was discovered. Furthermore, it appears that the study results contribute to the development of low-irritating scalp and hair care products using the anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties of the fermented green tea extracts.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.38 no.2
• /
• pp.139-145
• /
• 2012

There is a unique type of fatty acid in the hair surface. 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA) is an unusual anteiso fatty acid covalently linked to the outermost surface of hair cuticle. A layer of 18-MEA is located in the upper ${\beta}$-layer of the CMC that is responsible for the low surface energy and low friction resistance of the hair's outer surface. The high mobility of 18-MEA molecule facilitates spreading of extraneous lipid by decreasing interfacial shear strength. In this study, we introduced N-hydroxyl succinimidyl ester functional group to the one end of C10 - 40 isoalkyl acid for regenerating hair surface with covalently bound fatty acid layer. The re-hydrophobicization of hair surface has been investigated by contact angle measurement. The inner moisture content of hair at different levels of humidity (40, 55, 70 %RH) was measured by electric moisture analyzer. Treatment with Hydroxysuccinimidyl C10 - 40 Isoalkyl Acidate (HCIA) was supposed to make hair surface smoother by filling the cracks between cuticles with covalently bound fatty acid monomolecular layer like cuticle glue. This glue effect was also confirmed with line profile of AFM images. Therefore, the moisture and structural components of inner hair were not easily flown out and the optimum moisture content could be kept constantly though the outside humidity level was changed. The lateral force microscopy (LFM) by using atomic force microscope showed that the friction force of hair surface treated with HCIA was decreased. It also showed the constantly sustained friction value even after shampooing repeated 15 times.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.30 no.4
• /
• pp.304-312
• /
• 2018

This study reduced the number of hair bleachings and used a hair steamer machine to reduce hair damage during hair coloring. In addition, such treatment was given, focusing on the use of hair mist. When the $L^{\ast}a^{\ast}b^{\ast}$ values for bleached hair were measured using a spectrum colorimeter, the mist steamer-based hair revealed higher brightness. Hair damage was low when moisture contents were high after hair drying with the use of the mist steamer machine. The mist treatment-less hair showed more blurred cuticle boundaries than mist-treated hair. In other words, this confirms that cuticles are protected by the use of a mist steamer machine during hair bleaching. It appears that this could minimize hair loss and meet clients' aesthetic needs and satisfaction during color bleaching/coloring.

• Journal of Convergence for Information Technology
• /
• v.12 no.3
• /
• pp.236-243
• /
• 2022

This study attempted to find the optimum amount of manuka extract ingredient with hair treatments in different manuka extract contents and examine its bleached hair protection effects. For this, the tensile strength and moisture level of the damaged hair were measured. In addition, hair conditions were analyzed, using SEM and FE-SEM. In terms of protection of bleached hair, all experimental groups (M1, M2, M3) were more effective than the control group (no manuka extract added) in tensile strength, moisture level, hair thickness and cuticle conditions. In particular, 'M3 (3% manuka extract)' revealed the largest hair protection effects. The above results confirm that Manuka extract-added hair treatments would be useful in protecting damaged hair as well as scalp as a cosmetic material. It is anticipated that there would be further studies on diverse chemical treatments with a much wider variety of samples.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.46 no.3
• /
• pp.295-305
• /
• 2020

Treatment for beauty using oxidizing agents damages hair with inducing structural alteration in cuticle layer, degradation of protein, and loss of lipid. This study connects a frictional coefficient upon the damaged hair by an instrumental test to the texture test by human being, and considered a moisture as a factor of the damage. A friction coefficient has been measured upon the hair with successive treatment of dye, perm, and bleach. The friction coefficient from the hair dye-treated three times was defined with 0.60, where 58% of answerer indicated an initial damage point as the hairs of iteration of dye-treatment increased. Even bleach treated three times results in 0.84 of friction coefficient corresponding to 88% of answerer attributed the hair to an initially damaged hair. In order to figure out a lipid loss in hair for human being to respond damage, a friction coefficient of the hair was controlled by removing 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA). The initial damage has been recognized by 0.60 of the friction coefficient for the 68% of answerer. Since moisture is the largest portion of the components in hair, moisture analysis has been performed to study a relationship between texture of damage and the friction coefficient from an instrumental evaluation. As an iteration of dye increases, the hair became hydrophilic with smaller contact angle. It is found that a damaged hair by dyeing possessed more than 0.42% of moisture compared to a healthy hair. Finally, it is elucidated that an increase of moisture in hair induced higher adhesive force corresponding to the friction coefficient, and the friction coefficient above 0.6 is attributed to the preception of hair damage.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.31 no.3
• /
• pp.155-164
• /
• 2019

This study comparatively analyzed hair bleaching and degree of damage by the temperature of a heating tool after coloring hair with a permanent, semi-permanent or plant hair dye. According to analysis by spectrophotometer, 'semi-permanent hair dye' was the highest, followed by 'permanent hair dye' and 'plant hair dye' in terms of changes in $L^*$ values. In terms of changes in hair shape when analyzed using FE-SEM, 'semi-permanent hair dye($150^{\circ}C$ or lower)' was the greatest, followed by 'plant hair dye($180^{\circ}C$ or lower)' and 'permanent hair dye($200^{\circ}C$ or lower)'. Therefore, it is reasonable to flat iron hair at low temperature. According to the test, amino acid values gradually decreased in both bleached and colored hair. The results obtained through TGA-based thermal analysis confirmed that as brightness increases, hair moisture contents decrease. This study aimed to protect hair by suggesting a correct use of a flat iron by the hair dye type during hair coloring. It appears that the study results would help hairdressers minimize hair damage by using a hair dye at proper temperature.

• KSBB Journal
• /
• v.23 no.5
• /
• pp.439-444
• /
• 2008

In this study, hair care effects of the hair cosmetics including low molecular weight silk peptide, hydrolysate which is produced from cocoon were investigated. After producing the hair cosmetics including silk peptide which has 300-500 molecular weight, we measured its hair care effects through the various tests; change of the hair weight, hair thickness, absorbance rate and hair moisture value and micro structure analysis. As a result, S.P.T. (Silk peptide Treatment) was effectively penetrated into the hair which has been damaged by chemical treatments, increased the hair weight, thickness and hair moisture value and also recovered the cuticle of the hair. Thus, the treatment of hair with silk peptide hydrolysate would be effective to recover the damaged hair into the normal conditions.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
• /
• v.11 no.9
• /
• pp.3277-3283
• /
• 2010

In this study, in order to find effects of collagen manipulation on hair in permanent wave treatment, it was conducted measurement and analysis on hair curl formation, thickness, tensile strength, methylene blue absorbance, and moisture loss after manipulating concentration proportion of collagen in permanent wave treatment on normal hair. As a result, it was found that by contrast with applying the reductant, hair thickness, tensile strength, methylene blue absorbance, and moisture loss were decreased when applied collagen in permanent wave treatment the higher concentration proportion of collagen was applied, the less damage was occurred on hair However curl formation capacity was decreased in permanent wave treatment as concentration proportion of collagen was increased. Therefore, the appropriate concentration proportion of collagen was 2% in order to reduce hair damage in permanent wave treatment.