• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.25-36
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive technique of grunge look in knitwear fashion. For this study, I have investigated theories of retro and decontructionism trends, and have examined pictures from professional fashion magazines. The results of study on the expressive technique of grunge look reflected on the knitwear fashion were as follows; (1) patchwork technique, which is an outstanding method of recycling, (2) handknitting technique, which came from retro trend of hippism, (3) unfinished edge, which emphasized the image of poverty and incompleteness, (4) irregular lace knitting and slash technique, which is the typical details of grunge look and denies the traditional fashion order, (5) hand stitch technique using various materials, which gives second-hand mood of hippie look, and (6) fringe details, which originated from the unfinished edge technique.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.957-969
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• 2011

This study intended to analyze the grunge look as a mode of expression and as a characteristic of the fashion of the 21st century, arguing that the look expressed not only an outward appearance or sub-culture but also a change in our attitude and spirit about contemporary fashion. In the study, I carried out an empirical analysis focused on the collection from 2001S/S to 2010F/W and a literature review. In my results, I classified the grunge look into the following categories: 1. mix and match layering; 2. patchwork, collages, and assemblage using all objects as well as clothing materials; and 3. distressing techniques, such as bleaching and dyeing, unweaving, and tears and holes. I also classified the characteristics of grunge into the following categories: 1. conspicuous destitution, which is intentionally expressed by skillful techniques and craftsmanship, indicating that modern people want to attract attention and be distinguished from others, which reflects an attitude of superiority through ironic fashion choices; 2. high lighting the dissolution of decoration, where destruction, poverty and recombination shown in the grunge look emerged as an artificial and intentional ugly aesthetic in contrast to the existing elegant and sophisticated image; and 3. satire and playfulness, as grunge expresses alienation and conflict in modern society through satire and sarcasm, not attacking or avoiding, but through playful and sarcastic engagement so as to decrease poverty and give temporary freedom.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.873-889
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• 2014

The goals of this study are to analyze how fashion professionals' attitudes toward Grunge style have changed since the 1990s and to compare aesthetic features of 1990s Grunge style and the style since 2000. By searching Vogue and Women's Wear Daily articles from 1992 to 2014 according to the keyword "Grunge", three collections from the 1990s and 59 collections since 2000 were selected for analysis. Although Grunge collections of the 1990s were harshly criticized by critics and retailers as ugly, the more recent collections have been highly praised for both design and profitability. The common aesthetic features of Grunge style in the 1990s and beyond include loose silhouettes, mix-and-match layerings, plaid patterns, floral prints, and striped patterns. However, Grunge style since 2000 has new features such as ornate fabrics, handcrafted details, a formal and dressy look, and faux plaid flannel shirts in chiffon or organza. These features give the style a more luxurious, feminine, and refined appearance. The results of this study indicate that Grunge style of the 1990s changed high fashion beauty standards and today's designers and consumers prefer to mix various styles to create new ones. They typically do not consider the original spirit or identities of the varied styles.

• 복식
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• 제54권6호
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• pp.119-130
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics of 1980s' oversize fashion. Especially in 1980s, there were some characteristics that the leading style did not exist as the other decades, but instead of that, various styles coexisted and the existing traditional rule of fashion was destroyed. On the basis of such background, the moulding nature resident in oversize fashion is considered and analyzed as follows. Firstly, 1980s is the time of power suit booming and through such clothes, women disclosed their consciousness that they want to be equal with men. Secondly, In contrast to that a shoulder pad was the trademark of 1980s' clothes, the social aspect that Japanese designers' clothes of layered look and them of grunge look coexisted is directly expressed through these oversize clothes. Thirdly, In 1980s of the time that people's interest to health risen, sports wear was developed to be everyday wear and furthermore, it had variously influences on high fashion so that developed to big look. Fourthly, when it comes to 1980s' clothes, the atmosphere of society denying apparent boundary between sex at that time was resident in androgynous look and the folklore image of sexless style by their appearance in oversize fashion. What is this situation that the style of the past time is popular in the 21st century even such intentional spirit of challenge already passed？ Maybe for women, the one way of expressing themselves is through their clothes, and for such reason, it can be considered that the social meaning resident in 1980s' clothes is re-examined in the present age.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제32권5호
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• pp.201-216
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• 1994

The materialism prevalent in the modern industrial society and concern for the destruction of nature have led people to long for the returning to nature and excite their nostalgia for old. These phenomena induced in modern fashion naturalism retrospectivism ethnicism and primitivism. In the following we present our findings in regard the roles and relationships of the tie dying with the modern fashion design. in regard the roles and relationships of the tie dying with the modern fashion design. The common basic themes are founded as follows; 1. Naturalism: The tie dying is from very old times and has evolved in many parts of the world producing their own natural designs and color. They bear the characteristic of nature; the pleasantness smoothness and complexity. 2. Individualism and hand made: No two items produced by the tie dying technique are identical even though they are similar by design and their individuality is to some extent determined by chance. The retrospetivism and individualism are themes relating to the modern fashion. 3. Ethnicism and primitivism: The tie dying brings up the 'ethnic and traditional' to us and their designs and colors present the new images of the ethnic and primitive influences to the modern designs. 4. Ecology recyle and grunge look: The tie dying represent the recycle of the used natural resources such as making the old cloths useful again in new forms by tie dying them. The old clothes thus restored show wrinkled untidy and somewhat loosely fit form. This image of 'grunge look' is one of the central theme of the modern fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권2호
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• pp.353-364
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• 2016

This study analyzes French designer Hedi Slimane who has received recent attention from the fashion world. He changed sub-culture 'Rock Fashion' into high fashion and altered the stereotype of the existing menswear with the skinny look. His extreme slim-fit style also has changed the menswear market dramatically. Hedi Slimane was mainly inspired by various rock music genres from the 1960 to 2000s such as glam rock, psychedelic rock, grunge rock, and garage rock. He showed in his own rock style when creating his collection. The collections inspired from the specific rock music and style were selected from Dior Homme (2001F/W-2007F/W) and Saint-Laurent (2013F/W-2015F/W), and analyzed by the 4 genres of rock music and fashion style as follows. First, glam rock style appeared in Dior Homme 2005F/W and Saint Laurent 2014S/S with glamorous full make-up, animal printings, and glitter textures. Second, psychedelic rock style appeared in Saint Laurent 2015S/S with flower patterns, afro hair, fur vests, and western & ethnic bohemian styling. Third, grunge rock style appeared at Dior Homme 2005S/S and Saint Laurent 2013F/W with messedup hair, destroyed jeans, and layering style. Fourth, garage rock style appeared mainly at Dior Homme 2006 S/S with messed-up hair, slim suit, fedora, and sneakers. This result is expected to be used for research and development on modern rock style for contemporary menswear.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.67-76
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• 2002

This research examines the characteristic trends through analysis on cue in the contemporary fashion distinctly and systematically. It is carried out by both qualitative analysis and quantitative analysis. In the qualitative analysis, the four important street fashions of neo-mods/jazz, neo-hippie/grunge, sportivecasual and technos/cyber-punk are grouped. In the quantitative analysis, statistical data are sampled from Collection II of the 1990s S/S. It takes frequency, percentage, $\chi^2$-test and etc. by using the comprehensive tools for statistical treatment. There were significant differences between the S/S fashion. According to the cues, there are also significant differences between the fashion in the 1990s. In 'Neo-Mos/Jazz' style shows highly androgynous look, deep and strong tone, green/blue colors, natural fabric, stripe pattern, long hair style, and hided make-up. 'Neo-hippie/gnenge' style shows highly folklore look, vivid tone purple colors, seethrough/knit fabric, natural /traditional pattern, decorative hair special makeup. 'Sportive casuals' style shows highly sportive look, greish tone, white/grey colours, natural fabric, solid patten, bobbed hair, and natural make-up. 'Techno/cyber punk style shows highly comocorps look, pale tone black colors avangard fabric, solid patten, punk/dyed hair special make-up.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.173-189
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• 1995

purpose of this study is to analyze the various phenomenon related to the subjectivism of aesthetic value for dress, which is impossible to describe with only functionalism, practically and objectivism of aesthetic value for dress based on Karl Rosencrantz\ulcorners theory of the Aesthetics of ugliness from the middle of 1980's to present. In other words, the ugliness had been selected and erected as the opposite meaning of beauty to head toward ultimate beauty, and clarify that ultimate beauty is achieved through the combination of beauty is achieved through the combination of beauty and ugliness. First, the ugliness and Rosencrantz\ulcorners theory of the Aesthetics of Ugliness had been examined theoretically in the aspect of the subjectivism of aesthetic value for dress and aesthetic category. The relationship between the artistic styles related to ugliness, such as Avant-garde, Primitivism of Expressionism, Grotesque, Decadence, Kitsch, Pastich\ulcornerParody, from the late 19c to present, and the dresses representing the ugly look such as Cyber Punk, Exotic look, Detester, Grunge, Hip-hop, etc, of 1990's had been studied by using photographic materials. In this study, the basic concepts of ugliness, including formlessness, inaccuracy and deformation, formed by K. Rosencrantz had been used to reveal the interaction between modem costume and the theory of ugliness.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권5호
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• pp.539-548
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to know outer and inner characteristics of Bobos style regarded the latest fashion and to estimate the characteristics of fashion trend in 21st century and direction of fashion in the future, In terms of contentions of this study, we firstly studied concept, background, general characteristics which had been introduced in Sociology. And then, we studied the effect which the style of Bobos had been given by investigating the concept and style of Hippies and Yuppies. Also, we analysed trend of Bobos represented in modem fashion and tried to examine outer and inner features of Bobos through the result of analysis. Bobos can defined as 'Bourgeois Bohemian' who have both mundane desire about success and are high-educated elite class in information-oriented society. The fashion styles which had affected Bobos were psychedelic, naturalism, unisex, ethnic, layered, grunge of Hippies in 1960s and traditional, power-look, contemporary-look, sports wear, casual wear of Yuppies in 1980s. As a result of examining features of Bobos style, we can know that outer feature of Bobos style showed a reasonable harmony regardless of formalities and inner features showed a tendency to seek comforts. Also, Bobos style showed various and free styles, textile materials and colors and complex features to transcend the time and region, and culture.

• 복식
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• 제28권
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• pp.239-253
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• 1996

The purpose of this dissertation is to exam-ine the hippie look which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the early 90s, in re-lation to the hippie style in 60s and cultural restoration. in order to investigate the re-lationship this dissertation studies the trans-feral phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother fashion in the basis of social and clutural theories. hippie culture is the anti-culture which appeared in America in the late 60s, it tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. First of all to examine the inner symbolic meaning and outer shape of the hippie style I divided the characteristics of the hippies into ideology social value and attitude on sex. in the aspect of ideology the hippie show strong subjectivity while mother culture shows ob-jectivity. in social value the hippie has the resisting chaacteristics while mother culture has the conformative characteristics. In the aspect of sex the hippie tries to break the fixed idea of mother culture. Hippie culture as anti-culture is symbolically expressed in hippie style fashion which is dif-ferent from mother fashion in shape. There-fore the inner meaning and the outer shape of the hippie style shows strong characteristics of anti-fashion. Hippie style as anti-fashion has an effect on high fashion in the late 60s and the early 70s and on hippie look which is restored in 90s. however hippie-look in 90s is a mother-fashion in which all symbolic mean-ings of the hippie style are weakened and the only outer shape of hippie style is presented and suggested. It doesn't show any cultural backgrounds ideology social value and new attitude on sex of the hippies. The transferal phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother-fashion is summarized as follows. First in the process of tranference to highfashion in 60s and 70s and hippie-look in 90s the resistance of the hippie style is weakened and only suggested through the outer look. Second the hippie style which reappeared in the high fashion and mother fashion in 90s are layered look military uniform mode flower print grunge look romantic look peasant look ethnic look gypsy style handicraft ornaments working suit style handicraft ornaments working suit style and the use of the see-through cloth. Third the fact that the popular and high fashion were influenced by anti fashion in 60s proves filter-up theory in fashion adaption theory. As I examined before the ideology of the hippies are faded in high fashion in 60s-70s and hippie-look in 90s. The symbolic meaning of the hippie style is also weakened and only presented as a fashion trend.