• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.20 no.3
• /
• pp.99-113
• /
• 2018

In this study, the reality of international Gothic style was examined through the representative art of the period, such as paintings, architecture and tapestries. In particular zones of the body were examined by applying Harold Koda's methods of discussing extreme beauty to study the phenomena and characteristics of extremes in late Gothic costumes. This arrived at the following conclusions concerning the phenomena and characteristics of the extreme appearing in the late Gothic costumes. First, a mechanism of body transformation to reach the ideal and desired form of a human. Second, the complicated and various extremeness of the whole human body. Third, the reflection of 'elaborate and secular excess, decorative taste of international Gothic style. Fourth, a early advanced case of the Trickle-down fashion and international sensation. Fifth, the aesthetic insight into 'ugliness', ever pursued in 'extreme beauty'. The researcher expects that the results of this study will contribute to the preparation to renew the significance of, and to restore the status of the late Gothic costumes, in terms of costume history, that has been considered as an age of the bizarre tastes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.7 no.2
• /
• pp.153-161
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of goth image which have had influence on literature, film, music and art, in modern fashion. The method of this study is to analyze the documentary about gothic and goth, and the fashion magazines since 2000. The results of this study are as follows: First, sensuality shows the excessive exposure of body and inner wear, and emphasizes a resistance of sexual consciousness and a image of independent, active, powerful woman. Second, androgyny shows the goth women wearing a men's cloth and encourages a person to have a perfect being and satisfaction. Third, horror shows the symbol of death and suggests a substance of desire hidden in our mind. Fourth, historicity shows victorian fashion which have a romance of gothic and baroque, not a cult but a modern image. In conclusion, goth image in modern fashion does not show a substance negative and horrorful, but a substance positive as a perfection, satisfaction, a sense of freedom, obliteration of a feeling of uneasiness and powerful woman's image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.5
• /
• pp.1-17
• /
• 2013

As style is the center of subcultural identity and the clothes and adornments are the most visible symbol of its membership, the style of Goth symbolizes the strong subcultural identity and acts as the practical basis to demonstrate commitment to the subculture. In the turn of the third millennium, fashion designers have drawn upon and extracted elements from many subcultures to use in their collections. High fashion designers have introduced the Goth style since its inception in the 1980s. The energy and authenticity of Goth has been considered to be desirable in high fashion. The aesthetic property of Goth subcultural style defeats the established notion of standardized fashion and stimulates new consciousness, which makes room for diversification and subdivision. This study attempts to forecast the trends of the 21st century via researching the diffusion of Goth style in high fashion. In order to investigate the aesthetics and styles of Gothic chic, along with literature research, this study investigates the fashion collections from the late 1990s to 2000s as well as the images of street fashion magazines.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• v.4 no.2
• /
• pp.138-145
• /
• 2001

This study aims to compare the beauty of costume in the Gothic with that of Renaissance periods. By analyzing the beauty of costume which reflects the ideal of the age, this study attempts to provide the insight which can predict the beauty of future costume The characteristics of Gothic costume is the from of the loose enveloping of the body, which can be accounted for from the influence the Christian religion, and the emphasis on the vertical line influenced by the steeple in the Gothic architecture expressing the enthusiasm of the religion. The emphasis on height in the Gothic cathedrals was reflected in the hennin, pointed shoes, and lengthy sleeves of Gothic dress. The beauty of Gothic costume lies in the from of slender, the emphases on the vertical line, the we of heraldry and parti-color, and pointed hat and shoe. The Renaissance architecture shows a broad horizontal appearance. There is the similarity between the Renaissance costume and Renaissance architecture. The beauty of Renaissance costume lies in the form of the exposing body, the exaggerated silhouette, the emphasis on the horizontal line, the use of ruff and slash in order to display the beauty of human body and the beauty of cubic. The ideal beauty of Gothic and Renaissance costume was influenced by the spirit the age and was in contrast.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.13 no.4
• /
• pp.127-138
• /
• 2011

The style which is created by grafting the characteristics of goth onto haute couture designer works is called 'Haute goth'. The purpose of this study is to analyze the modem Goth fashion style based on Goth's historical background and characteristics. Also, I investigated the aesthetic characteristics of haute goth style appeared from the work of haute couture designers. Goth means a member of East Germanic people who invaded and settled in the Roman Empire from the 3rd to the 5th century. Goth style had been developed to the medieval European architecture style or the literature style of 18th~19th centuries and later it was reappeared in the gothic band in the late 20th century. Goth fashion shows the characteristics of the medieval times and Victorian times mixed with punk and fetish style. Goth fashion is expressed with the images of fear, darkness, mystique, dandy and eroticism. 'Dark esthetics' is realized through black clothes, pale complexion and silver accessories. Many designers like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano designed 'haute goth fashion' in various ways. The characteristics of 'haute goth' can be summarized in four things. It creates new images, seeks various changes and pursuits newness. It upgrades a street look style gothic fashion to a luxury high fashion and the creative design with artistic value. It also shows an experimental sprit by using a unique shapes, silhouettes, different materials and extreme images or creating new combination through the mismatch of opposite objects or emotions. Although it is rooted in the past because of the influences by late medieval times, Victorian times and Edwardian times, it displays enough of future-oriented historicism designs.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.15 no.2
• /
• pp.65-75
• /
• 2013

As a typical subculture, Goth exercises influence on our culture in broad areas. Features of Gothic style, such as dark aesthetics, images of death and fear, and erotic horrification, emerged as attractive themes to contemporary fashion designs. Based on the dark attraction of black color, Goth fashion creates mysterious and fantastic atmosphere as well as grotesque and horrifying mood. 'Hallyu' or Korean wave is a term to describe the phenomenon of fervently loving Korean popular culture. As the fast spreading Hallyu is strongly engraved through the visually conspicuous fashion, we can say that fashion plays important role in diffusing Hallyu. In addition, a number of analyses and researches on the Hallyu, including K-pop, have been conducted, while concentrating keen interest in fashion of Hallyu K-pop stars. Accordingly, this study is designed to examine relations between fashion of K-pop stars and Goth fashion after analyzing features of Hallyu and K-pop and contemplating Goth fashion. Namely, this study will analyze various Goth images shown in K-pop fashion, which is the core of Hallyu, and identify aesthetic features of Goth shown in the fashion of K-pop stars. An investigation and analysis of the Goth images shown in the fashion of K-pop stars identifies the following features : a black aesthetic, eroticism, defiance, reversal of gender identity, and mystery.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.5
• /
• pp.21-33
• /
• 2011

The aim of this study is to identify the formative feature of the Chippendale style of the 18th century and to understand the aesthetic feature of the Chippendale style applied in the modern fashion. This is significant in that new possibilities are proposed in fashion design in more holistic and multifaceted views by comparing and delving into the fashion vis-a-vis other fields in a bigger scope of the formative art. The Chippendale style furniture is a combination of various styles of different eras and regions such as Gothic and Chinese style based on the Rococo style. Today, It is regarded in fashion as a composite design of heterogeneous elements or very curvy decorative design. The Chippendale style of this kind is classified into the Rococo style, Gothic style and Chinese style. Depending on each classification, formative features including curves, asymmetry, decorativeness, geometrical feature, exoticism, compositeness and graceness were derived. In comparative studies, fashion and furniture of the Chippendale style have the similarity in formative features but there were some differences in the expressive method. This study analyzed the formative features of the Chippendale style represented in furniture and the modern fashion based on the Rococo-revival design in the modern fashion starting from 2000.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.2
• /
• pp.98-112
• /
• 2014

Since 2010, Goth styles have risen rapidly in prominence as one of the major trends of fashion. This study intends to understand the Goth style shown from the modern fashion by examining its historically formative characteristics and internal meanings of the Goth style. With mystic attitude toward the medieval Gothic culture, Goth style refers to its reproduction over the cultural circles including music, literature and arts. From the result of the historical review, the formative characteristics of the Goth style may be divided into darkness, distortion, memento mori and bricolage. The historical review of the Goth style contains symbolic meaning of mystery, terror, escape and theatricality. After 2000, Goth style, in combination with factors such as postmodernism and human desire, has been established as the main trend of modern fashion, going with the popular culture. The formativeness of modern Goth fashion is the same as that of Goth style examined from the historic review. However, in modern Goth fashion, the symbolic meaning has the processes of the new: unconsciousness, kitsch, overthrow and popularity.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
• /
• 1998.09a
• /
• pp.47-47
• /
• 1998

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
• /
• v.5 no.1 s.12
• /
• pp.78-86
• /
• 2007

One of the latest social trends is to reappear old things under the banner of the revival. It is easily found in the fashion industry because Fashion is not divided into the past, the present and the future thing but coexisting through all ages. The purpose of this study was to pursue the healthy and characteristic beauty of the modem people by understanding the beauty culture of the ancient. The Middle ages were mainly classified into Byzantine, Romanesque and Gothic by historical and cultural factors. In the Byzantine age, the clothing with rich silhouette was worn by the influence of the abstemious religion and it didn't express a specific proportion of human body. The people covered their hair with turbans and veils for the period. The Romanesque era was affected by the religious idealism and the Greek-Roman culture. The ideal proportion of human body could be 8 heads high and the clothes expressing natural silhouette of human body came out. Depending on the feel of the flowing texture, long-braided hair was typical in that time, and also wearing kinds of head dress as personal ornaments was characteristic in the age. In the period of Gothic, the long and weak human body was emphasized. The ideal proportion of human body could be figured with 8.5 heads high and it was expressed with the form of artificial and vertical silhouette such like tight-fitting upper garments, gathered skirts and long hats.