• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.399-409
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to compare how the number of panels, the amount of flare and the flare starting point affect the silhouette of the gored skirt. This study consisted of (1) creation of 3D body representations (2) comparison of silhouette between 3D virtual gored skirt and actual gored skirt by pilot experiment (3) pattern drafting of twenty-seven different gored skirts for 3D body representations (4) a computer simulation of twenty-seven different gored skirts for visualization and assessment (5) visual inspection of twenty-seven different 3D virtual gored skirts (6) comparison of ham shapes and measurements for the node and size analysis. A visual inspection of twenty-seven different 3D virtual gored skirts showed clear differences by the amount of flare and the flare starting point ; however, there was notably less difference in the width of ham among six-piece, eight-piece and ten-piece panels. This demonstrated that there was less influence on the number of panels than the amount of flare width of ham and extent of ham for the 3D virtual gored skirt.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.117-126
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• 1996

As the current stage of the fashion begins to follow the styles of the past the study on the past costume is getting more importance and as the methodolgy of the study the accu-rately approached study through the rehabili-tation of the past cosume is more needed than the simple rearrangement of the historical documents. By this methodology this study can be positioned as a re-creation activity. The results of the study are as follows. 1) Style: The general silhouette is the style to emphasize the waist and to widen skirt at the lower part of the body. The front shows hourglass silhouette but the side shows S-line silhouette. The dress is two-piece composed of bodice and skirt. 2) Color and Fabric: The main color is dull powder blue end the sub color is ivory. The dress is made of wool crepe and cotton and partly silk crepe satin and taffeta. 3) Pattern and sewing: The dress is combined with lining and fabrics, The patterns. or overbodice. The skirt is gored skirt. The skirt is gored skirt. The dress has various effect not only to decorate but also to conceal seams support hemlines nd affect the depth and length of front panel. 4) Datail: The braid black velvet ribbon frill and tucks in bodice skirt sleeves front panel collar cuffs are repeatedly used to dec-orate the dress. Finally the 1902-3 day dress has the characteristics of transitional stag in which the chatacteristics of the costume of 1900s and the remnants of the characteristics of the pre-vious costume style and shows the charac-teristics of day dress well in terms of the style color and fabric pattern and sewing and detail.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.501-514
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• 2014

In this study, visual images were analyzed with the representative seven kinds of selected skirts, by the differences of shape and length which are affecting to the images of skirts. In addition, the purpose of the study is to present the basic data for the skirt design and patterns those are appropriate to the preferred images of 20-30s. The results of this study are as follows. First, analyzed by the visual evaluation about the composing factors are as follows. Factor 1 is a Cute image factor, factor 2 is a charming image factor, factor 3 is a transversal factor, Factor 4 is active image factor, Factor 5 was classified as a longitudinal factors. Second, analyzed by the visual evaluation according to the shape and length of the skirt, 20-30s women's most preferred form of the skirt is pleated skirt which was highly evaluated looks good, beautiful, favorite, attractive factors. Non-prefered skirts are gored skirt which was highly evaluated not corny, not pretty, heavy, unattractive factors and gored skirt which was negatively evaluated with classic and dislike factors. In the length of skirt, the knee length short skirt is attractive, active and positively evaluated by the 20-30s women than long skirt. Therefore, the results of this study, there are almost no differences according to the age groups of 20-30s women. They are more affected from the length of the skirt rather than the shape.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.123-143
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• 1994

The aim of this research analyze women's preference in types and formation of skirt lines by their ages and body shapes. The aim of this study is for women to select clothing which can cover their shortcomings and to present the practical and positive data about skirt design to clothing maker. The results of this research are summarized as followed : Tight skirt is the beest preferred and flare is the next. Narred silhouettes re preferred about th width of each kind of skirt, but as for the gored and flare skirts middle-width silhouettes are preferred. Preferred lengths of the skirts are different from ages; the middle like minilines, the thirties like miniline, the thirties and the forties natural line, and the fifties midiline, and according to body shapes, the skinny or standard shape like natural line and the fat midiline. All age prefer natural waist line, and twenties and the skinny like high waist line and belt compared to fifties and the fat. All ages like dart-treated skirt waist and wrinkle-decoration with narrow vertical lines or tuck-decoration with narrow horizontal line. White and blue are preferred colors of skirts in spring and summer, the skinny and the standard like blue, whereas the fat like black. All ages like soft materials and one-colored skirts without patterns Adult women like jipper to open waist of a skirt. Most of them like back positioned one, but fifties and the fat prefer side positioned ones.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.5-22
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• 2000

The study on the past costume should be done first for the creation of new style of fashion. That is one of the reasons why we have to annalize characteristic style in each period. Before the latter of nineteenth century one must have made the costume by draping design. Because the complicated clothes can be expressed by draping deign think that the subject draping design is even more important than other subject. But there haven't been the studies that analyzed the pattern of Art Nouveau style by draping design in Korea. Art Nouveau style is a certain one that was relatively more changeable than the ones of other periods. The purpose of this study is the analysis about the patterns of hourglass and S-curve style which represented the Art Nouveau style. The results of the study summarized as follows. 1. Bodice pattern : In the front Hourglass silhouette has the princess line for fitting bodice while S-curve silhouette has the wide midriff due to the blousing. There is the yoke in S-curve one. In the pattern of back bodice we can't see the much differences but Hourglass silhouette is used the princess line like the front one while S-curve is made use of the waist darts for fitting back. 2. Sleeve pattern : Hourglass silhouette is made of two pieces the upper part and lower part besides S-curve is consisted of one pieces. The former has the big upper part in order to the emphasis of the shoulder and the tight lower part. The latter is the tight sleeve that similar to the basic sleeve pattern at present. 3. Skirt pattern: There is partially a gored line in the front skirt in Hourglass silhouette however S-curve silhouette is consisted of the six pieces gored skirt. At this part we can also see the fact that s-curve is more complicated than Hourglass silhouette. 4. Others: Wecan find out the differences between Hourglass and S-curve pattern easily at the parts of the collar flounce wing and so on. Summing up, the patterns of S-curve style are more expanded than those of Hourgalss style for the most part.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.626-632
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• 2010

The results of the image evaluations by various shapes of skirts which are typical female's lower garment were as follows; 1. The composition factors of images by the shapes of skirts were classified into five factors. The 1st factor is lovely image factor, the 2nd is attractive image factor, the 3rd is practical image factor, the 4th is slim-looking image factor and the 5th is long-looking image factor. 2. In the 1st factor- lovely image factor, tiered skirt, $360^{\circ}$ flared skirt and $180^{\circ}$ flared skirt were evaluated to express lovely images. In the 2nd factor- attractive image factor, $180^{\circ}$ flared skirt was evaluated to express refine and attractive images. In the 3rd factor- practical image factor, $360^{\circ}$ flared skirt and gathered skirt were evaluated to express easy and practical images. In the 4th factor- slim looking image factor, males evaluated 8gored skirt and females evaluated gathered skirt to express fat images. In the 5th factor- long looking image, $180^{\circ}$ flared skirt was evaluated to express long looking images by both sexes. 3. In the lovely image factor, gathered skirt was evaluated most differently between the sexes. Both in the attractive and practical image factor, tiered skirt was evaluated most differently between the sexes. 4. In the preference of male and female university students according to the shapes of skirts, both the sexes prefered flared skirt. But the low prefered shapes of skirts were differently evaluated between the sexes; the male students' was A-lined skirt and the female's was pleated skirt and wrap skirt.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.99-112
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to create party wear of heroine Satine's image. This study analyzed the costume and its image of the film "Moulin Rouge" which the director Baz Luhrmann filmed the club 'Moulin Rouge' has existed in Paris, France. Catherine Martin, who got the Academy awards in movie costume and art director with this film, made the costume which was added more gorgeous and modern sense for the image beauty for costume in film from the costume design which appeared in the art work of Toulouse-Lautrec painted Moulin Rouge. In the costume form, S-silhouette robe with gored skirt was appeared as usual garment and gorgeous corset style costume which was outer garment like underwear exposed of the body, pleasant apolaustic and decorated excessively was appeared for costume design. Based on the above study, this study created the party wear of the graceful eroticism image and the prostitute eroticism image of heroine Satine. The costume design of Satine's image was planned along the character which was analyzed through this study.