• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.34 no.2 s.115
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• pp.80-98
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• 2006

This study originated from following questions. What can we understand the conception of deconstruction, which has been the core idea of new discourses developed in various ways since modernism? How can this question be interpreted in landscape design? What is the conceptional frame of integration the prominent hybrid post-genre movements and phenomena? The frame can be epitomized with the deconstruction phenomenon. 'Deconstruction' is the core conception appeared in late or post-modern ages in the embodiment of modernity and can be viewed as an integrating or a hybrid phenomenon between areas or genres in formative arts. Therefore, the author regards the hybrid movements widely witnessed in the post contemporary formative arts as one of the most important indicators of de-constructive signs. It is safe to say that the phenomenon of this integration or hybridism, of course, does not threaten the identity of landscape design but serves as an opportunity to extend the areas of landscape design. One of the consequences of this integration or hybridism is the voluntary participation of users who have been alienated in the production of the meanings of design works and hybrid landscape design with the hybridization of genres that is characterized with transformation in forms. This view is based on the distinction between hybridization of interactions between the designer (the subject) and the user (the object), and hybridization of synesthesia. Generally speaking, this is an act of destroying boundaries of the daily life and arts. At the same time, it corresponds to vanishing of modern aesthetics and emerging of post-contemporary aesthetics which is a new aesthetic category like sublimeness. This types of landscape design tries to restore humans' sensibility and perceptions restrained by rationality and recognition in previous approach and to express non-materialistic characteristics with precaution against excessive materialism in the modern era. In light of these backgrounds, the study aims to suggest the hybrid concept and to explorer a new landscape design approach with this concept, in order to change the design structure from 'completed' or 'closed' toward 'opened' and to understand the characteristics of interactions between users and designs. This new approach is expected to create an open-space integrating complexity and dynamics of users. At the same time, it emphasizes senses of user' body with synesthesia and non-determination. The focus is placed on user participation and sublimity rather than on aesthetic beauty, which kind of experience is called simulacre. By attaching importance to user participation, the work got free from the material characteristics, and acceptance from the old practice of simple perception and contemplation. The boundaries between the subject and object and the beautiful and ordinary, from the perspective of this approach, are vanished. Now everything ordinary can become an artistic work. Western dichotomy and discrimination is not effective any more. And there is 'de-construction' where there is perfect equality between ordinary daily life and beautiful arts. Thus today's landscape design pays attention to the user and uses newly perceived sensitivity by pursing obscure and unfamiliar things rather than aesthetic beauty. Space is accordingly defined to take place accidentally as happening and event, not as volume of shape. It's the true way to express spatiality of landscape design. That's an attempt to reject conventional concepts about forms and space, which served as the basis for landscape design, and to search for new things.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Interior Design Conference
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• 2001.05a
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• pp.78-81
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• 2001

The lastest art is being characterised by an ever active exchange between different genre. Installation Art is an artistic attempt to integrate visually and dynamic consciousness and movement of human beings and the actual living space based on the new spatial concept of integrative Environment Approach. Through the visual and structural reflection of personal experience and movement new interpretation of space in which various activities and events take place in relation to time is realized. The methods of Installation that relate on the contemporary interior design are as follow : expression of object through deconstruction, space of every experience, enlargement of concept of space, space of interactive.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.30-44
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• 2020

Bootleg fashion emerged from the fashion industry after 2010, and has been used across a range of different genres. However, it has yet to be theoretically established; therefore, this study will explain bootleg fashion as a new genre, which will help in the planning and designing of products within domestic fashion brands. The purpose of this study was to examine the characteristics and internal meaning of bootleg fashion as a recently emerged fashion phenomenon that borrows from other brands without permission. The research methodology included a theoretical literature review of fashion sites and related materials and empirical research using case analysis. Results of the analysis of both characteristics and internal meaning of bootleg fashion suggest the following characteristics: "unauthorized use of symbolic elements," "disorganization of boundaries between fashion," "multiplicity through globalization," and "newness through deconstruction and recombination." Internal meanings derived from the analysis were "parody through symbol," which is seen as "a parody and homage resulting from the unauthorized use of a brand," while "decomposition through disorganization" is seen as a break-up of the boundaries between different fashions from a mainstream-oriented perspective. A juxtaposition of elements was demonstrated by "playfulness through transformation," which showed that such fashion cannot coexist with positional transposition. Finally, "spread as a cultural phenomenon" was derived through the diffusion through digital media with DIY culture. As such, bootleg fashion has been reborn as an innovative fashion genre, breaking the taboo of the illegitimate from the past and demonstrating new endeavors.

• Archives of design research
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.43-56
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• 2000

The purpose of this thesis is to investigate about the various metamorphosis methodology, which is one of the specific skill being used widely in contemporary metal-craft. Even though this methodology is being investigated actively in the other genre, it is not easy to find the example and various experimentation for further expression than in metal craft. The metamorphosis had been dealed little by little before the metal-craft is being modernized. Recentely, the experimentation is more deeply and widely held; because the deconstruction methodology, which is the skill to express the differance in the meaning: material's archetype and dealing with the symbol and metaphorical meanings concealed, is being developed. The special skills of the metamorphosis are Mokumegane, reticulation, Fusing, and electro form Mixed Media metamorphosis; these investigation is being further developed with metal alloy methodology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1128-1139
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• 2009

This study is on the works of Hussein Chalayan that is an expression of his idea and abstract concepts such as culture, history, time, space, nature, and humanity. The perspective of E. H. Gombrich is studied to understand the works of Chalayan who is the one of representative fashion designers in the present age. The 'schema and correction' process of E. H. Gombrich provides a suitable interpretation frame that considers the variety of works of art and the deconstruction of genre in the after 20th century. Hussein Chalayan attempts to combine clothes with other territories to show the spirit as materiality. He expresses the clothes that speaks the form of nature, symbolizes the combination of culture, visualizes time and space, and investigates the existence of human beings. Hussein Chalayan poses an endless question about the existence of human beings. He has put a question about the relationship of the human being and time, space, history, and nature. His trial to visualize the metaphysical conception of 'ego' and 'self' through his works makes him the representative designer of the 21st century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.77-87
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• 2008

Modern fashion industry creates complex and multiple fashion by amalgamating and mixing all elements that emerged in fashion without limiting them to a specific genre. The results of study are as follows: First, with regard to the conceptual differences among poor look, anti-fashion, and resistance fashion and the background. second, As aesthetic categories of poor beauty, its image with the feeling of poorness, beggar-likeness, worthlessness, poorness, and uncleanness is divided into the beauty of moderation, deconstruction, unfinished beauty, natural beauty, and ostentatious poor beauty based on the formative characteristics and poor look. Third, Oriental and Western poor images are comparatively analyzed. The poor beauty found in Oriental fashion, which is based on Zen aesthetics, seeks loneliness, poorness, and simplicity as an empty origin and features internal meaning that expresses the purity of poor beauty itself and external form that is visualized through no decoration, no color, and asymmetry in material and composition. The poor beauty in the West features non-form of no shape, asymmetry and disharmony and the characteristic in its contents is "distortion", and the characteristic in its expression features external form of "incorrectness" and internal meaning implying modem humans' frustration, resistance to materialism, and skepticism about mechanicalism.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2 s.55
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• pp.300-313
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• 2005

Hybrid trend of the 21st century is an important basis to express fashion Alexander McQueen is a representative designer of Hybrid trend which combines heterogeneous elements into oneconcept. Accordingly, this study distributed and analyzed Hybrid trend which was in Alexander McQueen's work like below. First, there was a racial Hybrid trend which combined different local culture in shared space of the world in his fashion work and he challenged to Westernized ideal beauty with new recognition and knowledge about beside countries of Western Europe which were considered as not important culture due to perceiving relative value of a pluralist society and created new way aesthetic consciousness. Second, he expressed a historical character of a combination of tradition and modern by his fashion work based on wide historical knowledge of a dress. He created a new line in contrast to the past with a perfect design through combination of the style from the tradition with the parody and displayed his own design world. Third, he treated instability and disorder from the interior essential dissolution, thus he had a cultural character which broke down the boundary of cultural genre and style. This attitude showed transformation of constructivism and deconstruction view, secession and distortion, mixture, duplication, secession and insert by his fashion work.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.14-26
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze Jacqueline Kennedy and Michelle Obama's fashion style from a perspective of modernism and postmodernism. The method utilized in this study was first, to examine the properties of modernism and postmodernism. Next, we explored the types of role performance of the first ladies and the application of their fashion as an aid to their roles through the precedents of the research concerning modernism and postmodernism. The results of the study are as follows. First, there was a trend of formalism and anti-formalism. Jacqueline Kennedy made her public appearances wearing a formal dress in order to express the first lady's authoritarian figure of restrained elegance. The fashion of the first lady aspired to formalism. Meanwhile, Michelle Obama followed more of a free style by eschewing the typical formality of the first lady. She created diverse styles utilizing a variety of items, which were not interrupted by form or by using heterogeneous items. Second, there is a trend of elitism and populism. While Jacqueline Kennedy preferred only haute couture designers' costume in order to show the prestige and dignity of the upper class, Michelle Obama patronized unknown designers' clothing or mid-level casual brand goods that the public favors in order to interact with the public through her fashion. Third, while modernism regards totality or unity to be important, postmodernism puts an emphasis on the eclecticism by pursuing complexity and diversity through the deconstruction of an indigenous genre. In case of Jacqueline Kennedy, this tendency featured monotone clothing color, which presented a unified full set dress that excluded decoration. Michelle Obama, in contrast, mixed and matched formal dresses and a casual cardigan or felicitously mixed luxury brand or low to middle priced brand goods.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.867-877
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• 2009

These days, the fantastic in opposition to classic beauty becomes a genre of creative body expression. The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressive characteristics of body types and meanings in recent fantastic fashion illustration. The method of this study was to analyze recent documentaries, fashion books, internet web site and so forth. The results were as follows: In literatures, pictures and movies, the category of the fantastic body's expressive types were classified as dominant mutant based on SF, multi body or fragment body by disruption, heterogeneous compound based on myth, personified humanoid and non substance in supernatural boundary. The dominant mutant based on SF was expressed image morphing, composition of machine image with body and modern metamorphosis of classic SF body. It means propensity to post-feminism and reservation of meaning analysis based on human unconsciousness. The multi body or fragment body by disruption in fashion illustration was expressed distorted composition of same body pictures, replacement of different bodies, deconstruction and partial omission of body and composition of meaning or non meaning images. It means permanence of self and basic narcissism. The heterogeneous compound based on myth was expressed general composition or optical illusion of various and aggressive animal motive. It means reinterpretation of original myth, metaphor of basic femme fatale, pursuit of permanence and sign of primitive mind in unconsciousness. The personified humanoid was expressed real human body description of mannequin or ball joint doll and anthropomorphism of robot image. It means representative satisfaction and nostalgia of childhood. The non substance in supernatural boundary was expressed grotesque description of ghost, zombie, vampire, angel, fairy, using of symbolic red, black color and non body. It means human's basic desire about immortality and taboo. Through the result of these study, the expression of fantastic body in fashion illustration will expend expressive method and we will understand human and cultural codes of today.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.3
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• pp.353-368
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• 2015

Walter Van Beirendonck expresses a fairy tale world of perverted sexual desire of sadism and masochism, violence, and aggressiveness that breaks from a transient one-time concept as is an essential element of fashion. This study classifies the aesthetic characteristic shown on the design of Walter Van Beirendonck and analyzes the intent of his symbolism and meaning. The attempt has a meaning in exploring a new directionality of fashion by conveying a critical message to this end, contemporary fashion breaks down boundaries with artistic genre and connects a problematic consciousness that exists in life with fashion. The results of study on the aesthetic characteristics of Walter Van Beirendonck are as follows. First, Beirendonck emphasized an interpersonal image about body by giving a question through the deconstruction of image on a perfect body into race, age, and body based on body modification. Second, fetishism appeared as a consciousness that human identity and character can be changed by connecting a fetish element of sexual identity, and sadism and masochism with fashion's imagination. Third, infantilism as an amusement expression of the form metaphorically satirized life of modern people. Fourth, makeup shown on performance or festival of an African tribe was used in the way of mixture or reuse for ethnography to obtain inspiration from ethnography. Fifth, pop art combined a popular culture code as amusement through mass production and mass media. Aesthetics of Beirendonck do not have norm and are bold in using form, color, pattern, print, and styling because Beirendonck reinterpreted critical attitudes about essential problems that human life entails into a motif of his symbolic meaning in amusement. In regards to his design aesthetics, Beirendonck expanded fashion to the scope of Gesamtkunstwerk in a consistent and continued theme combined with philosophical creativity and differentiated from other fashion designers.