• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.25 no.4
• /
• pp.107-122
• /
• 2023

This study analyzed the style, dimensions, fabric patterns, colors, and fabrics of a traditional Chinese women's dress from the Zhou Dynasty, and reconstructed it in the form of a virtual garment using 3D CLO. Based on ancient flat image data and three-dimensional portrait data, who wore them, how they were worn, and how they were coordinated was analyzed. In order to analyze the size and pattern of the straight Ju Chines dress, data from the excavation report and the tomb owner's anthropometric measurements were combined to infer the wearing condition and organize the sculptural features. Dimensional analysis was carried out using a well-preserved small-scale woven cotton cloth as a restoration model, and the horizontal and vertical dimensions were reasonably estimated using the shape proportioning method. The analysis of the colors and patterns of the fabrics was based on the colors and patterns of the fabrics excavated from Masan Tomb No. 1 during the Eastern Zhou, Qin, and Han periods. Finally, a virtual model was created using data from the excavation report and the age and height information of the owner of the excavated robe, and the pose and size of the virtual model were determined using 3D CLO. Based on the previous research data, the garment was virtually sewn and simulated. The shape, pressure, and strain of the garment in different postures was also compared. Through the research direction of pattern and 3D restoration, this research maximizes the restoration of Chinese traditional women's dress and presents it in a more intuitive, comprehensive, and vivid way.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.30 no.4
• /
• pp.49-61
• /
• 1992

The purpose of this study is to set the standard items of the garment size for infants. The studied subject consisted of 560 infants from at brith to 12 months of Pusan and Gyeongnam area. The Results from this analysis are as follows; 1. The most significant growths in body dimensions of infants as an month age advanced. Expecially, stature, weight and the items of height and length showed a quite rapid growth, but the items of girth, breadth and depth showed a slow growth. 2. The coefficient of correlation between stature and weight shows high value. The result of interpretation of the extracted components are as follows. It will be more appropriate to use the method of parallerizing with height and weight items rather than with month age in classficating and indicating of size for infant garment and in taking the head girth as basic item of infant for head-gears. Consequently, as the standard items for the classification of clothing constuction of infants, it is advisable to select weight alone or both stature and weight. 3. According to the method of classifying the somatotype by the index of body soundness, the Rohrer.Kaup index on the basis of standard items, weight and stature was divided into somatotype.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.22 no.6
• /
• pp.737-748
• /
• 1998

This study was carried out on 132 obese women who satisfied both of conditions for obesity: equal to or over 1.6 in Rohrer index and 90 in bust girth. The purpose of the study was to set up a sizing system using the loss function which would be a guide for obese women to select ready-to-wear of suitable size. The results were as follows. 1) In the sizing system for large size apparel industry, each company has 4 to 7 sizes that differ in their content and number. Producing only 5 sizes was trying to minimize the producti on expenses. 2) The sizing system according to the loss function was the follwings. The height was 3: 149, 154.5 and 161 cm. The bust girth was 5:96.5, 100.5, 104, 107.5, 112 cm. The hip girth was 5: 95, 99, 102.5, 105.5, 110 cm. 3) In comparing the cover ratio of the newly suggested sizing system for obese women's garment with that of the Korea Sizing system for women's garment, the former was founded to have the greater cover ratio.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.19 no.2
• /
• pp.366-379
• /
• 1995

This study was performed to provide fundamental data on middle-aged women's upper torso by classifying the upper torso somatotype and analyzing the characteristics of their somatotype. Factor analysis of principal component model was used to 38 directly measured items, and cluster analysis was applied for classification of upper torso forms. Seven factors were extracted from the factor analysis. The first factor represented the items of circumference, breadth, and depth which were related with body size. On the basis of the cluster analysis using factor scores trom factor analysis as being independent variables, the subjects were classified into three groups. Three dress forms were constructed according to the characteristics for each somatotype of subjects, the three-dimensional characteristics of somatotype were analyzied by the moire pattern and horizontal section map of proposed dress forms. Wearing test by moire topography was used to evaluate wearing outline, the ease of clothes and garment space. Moire pattern and horizontal section map were useful to evaluate wearing conditions, and garment space was changed by the characteristics of the body shape.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.6
• /
• pp.1205-1220
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to verify the change of body posture by putting on the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat. This study analyzed the female somatotype which puts on upper garments of Victorian era with using 3D body scan technology. Two sets of $19^{th}$ century women's bodice and waistcoat patterns were developed with the $19^{th}$ century model size and those patterns were used for making the experimental garments. The fit of experimental garments was evaluated by the degree of change with posture and waist measurements. Three women with the same waist girth measurements with the model size were participated to the fitting test. The postural change was measured from cross-sectional body diagrams. The result of this study showed that the waist measurement of the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice and waistcoat pattern was smaller than the waist girth measurement. These garments compressed the midriff of the body and it made women's distinct body silhouette. The waist girth measurement of 1876 bodice pattern was 9.2cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 5.0~6.1cm after wearing the 1876 bodice garment. The waist girth measurement of 1880 waistcoat pattern was 7.1cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 2.7~3.7cm after wearing the 1880 waistcoat garment. The back side parts of their waist were compressed and their postures were changed. The neck and shoulders were moved forward after wearing the experimental garments. These results showed that body posture could be changed to "S" shape silhouette as wearing the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.26 no.1
• /
• pp.62-73
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop men's formal jacket pattern for the Korean males of age 25 to 34 age with an average physique. Through the survey on seven industries of the ready-made men's wear, we investigated size systems and jacket patters presently practiced. From the fitting test of four patterns (three for ready-made jacket patterns, one for educational pattern) the moat favorable and comfortable pattern was selected. New experimented jacket pattern was based on it. The findings were as followed. 1) Survey of the domestic ready-made garment industries showed that each company classified its own manufactured goods according to its own size systems. 2) Anthropometric measurments of forty males for the subjects of lilting test were agreed to the survey of National Anthropometric of Korean(1997). These were also compatible to the standard size (100-88-175) of investigated industries. 3) Experimental jacket pattern was completed through the three times rectification and it gained higher ratings.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.6 no.3
• /
• pp.347-356
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the sizing system and size designation of ready-made jackets for women. We survey the sizing system and size labeling that have been used and presently practiced by the domestic garment industry of ready-made woman's jacket. In addition, 264 tailored jackets are measured for the sake of this study. The jackets are classified into 3 groups(young, missy, and madame) according to the target age of the brand. The result shows that size labeling involves body measurements(85-94-160), size code(55, 66) or simplified letter(S, M, L). However, the correspondence of size information and ease tolerances of jackets is not consistent and each company has its own sizing system. There are significant differences among young, missy, and madame group on the bust girth of apparel in 66size code. The average apparel size piteh measurement distributions(bust girth and hip girth respectively) of young group are 9cm and 13cm in 55 size code, those of missy group are 7 em and 3 cm in 66 size code, and those of madame group are 6cm and 4cm in 77 size code. The ease of bust girth and hip girth in missy group are much more than other groups.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.56 no.6 s.105
• /
• pp.58-71
• /
• 2006

This research is aimed to develop the functional clothing designs for disabled women in the manner of investigating design preferences among them by means of questionnaire and interview with 150 disabled women as respondents and interviewees. The findings of this research are summarized as follows: 1. Regarding satisfaction with ready-made clothes, the respondents answered 'very satisfied' (1.6%), 'usually satisfied' (14.1%), 'moderate' (20.3%) and 'unsatisfied' (53.1%), suggesting that they had been generally unsatisfied with ready-made clothes. 2. There were more disabled women preferring to ready-made clothes with one-grade bigger (loose.) size than the actual one (53.1%) instead of completely fitted size (43.8%) when they purchased such clothes. This result indicates that they prefer to ready-made clothes with bigger size than the actual one because most of such clothes are made up of non-elastic materials which may be unfavorable for wearer's activities. 3. It was found that primarily worn upper garment among them was T-shirt (59.4%). The reason may be that T-shirt is favorable for using prosthesis and orthotics such as wheelchair, walking stick and crutches thanks to its remarkably high activity as well as simple to maintain, compared with other kinds of upper garments. 4. Regarding preferences to functional clothing designs, the primarily worn lower garment among them was trousers (85.9%); the reason was easiness to move. The main reasons of avoiding to wear a skirt included 'difficult to move' (40.6%) and 'exposed disabled region' (30.3%). Accordingly, functional clothing for disabled women should be developed in consideration for their individual characteristics of disability associated with the disabled region such as wheelchair user, crutch user or brace user, In addition, the designs should be made so that they are not different from those for non-disabled people.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.25 no.8
• /
• pp.1524-1535
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study was to establish a sizing system according to size and dimension whereby manufactured pants can be classified and develop men’s formal pants pattern based on the analysis of ready-made and educational pants pattern. The first, we surveyed the sizing and the basic pants patterns of the men’s ready-made wear companies, Secondly, through the survey data of the domestic men’ready-mad clothing industry, we proposed a new sizing system. Lastly, after compared three different types of ready-mad pants manufactured according to their patterns and an additional type of pants made after the educational pattern, the new men’s basic pants pattern were developed. The findings were as follows: 1. Survey of the domestic ready-mad garment industry showed that each company classified its own manufactured goods according to its own sizing system: moreover, they each used its own unique patterns which appeared to be resulted from a combination of two factors : the experience of a patterner and foreign know-how technology. 2. New sizing system was developed with 12 steps from size 74-88 to size 96-106 based on the high frequencies of the companies’3. New basic patterns for men’s formal pants were developed: Inseam length = 80cm, crotch line = H/4+4.6cm, pants ham = 23.5cm as basic lines and front waist girth =W/4+9.1cm as drafting line. 4. the superiority of the new basic patterns were been demonstrated by a high approval rate of the subjects who participated in testing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.27 no.5
• /
• pp.453-462
• /
• 2003

The pantyhose is a close-fitting garment, and consumers are highly sensitive to any progress made in fitting the garment to their lower body and increasing comfort. However, the pantyhose manufactured in Korea are only one-sized. The purpose of this study is to suggest a sizing system for pantyhose. The results of this study are as follows: 1. As a results of questions regarding the sizing system of pantyhose, 88.2% of people who responded to our questionnaire preferred multi-sized pantyhose. In particular, larger women opposed to thin women expressed some dissatisfaction in the length and the width of the pantyhose. In addition, most of women preferred an indication of the sizing system and the body size of the control dimension (body mass and height). 2. The 13 species of pantyhose that were manufactured abroad are of all sizes, and only one type of pantyhose is one-sized. However, most domestic pantyhose except one, are one-sized. 3. As a result of the experiment, the spandex content in pantyhose was approximately 12∼18%. Moreover, the elongation rate was approximately 200-370%, which differed according to the features of the material. The stretch size of the pantyhose had varies greatly, add has not yet been standardized. 4. The methods for indicating the pantyhose size in this study are the square method and the stair method. The characteristics of the square method are simple, but the coverage is relatively low. The characteristic of the stair method are so complicated that older women have a low preference for this method. However, the coverage rate is high.