• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.164-174
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• 2009

다양성을 추구하는 글로벌 패션 시대의 경쟁력 향상을 위한 조견으로서 독창성은 필수적이다. 본 연구는 독창적인 한글 패턴을 모티브로 고부가가치를 꾀할 수 있는 패션 디자인에 관한 연구이다. 따라서 연구는 패션 분야에 있어서 한글을 모티브로 활용한 제품을 중심으로 고부가가치 창출에 관한 실질적인 방법에 관하여 연구하고자 한다. 구체적인 연구의 내용은 첫째, 한글의 조형적 특징에 관하여 고찰하며, 둘째, 국내 외 패션쇼에서 한글을 모티브로 하여 제작된 의상과 패션소품에 대하여 알아보고, 셋째, 한글 패턴의 조형성을 패션 디자인에 적용시킨 방법론에 대하여 파악해 보고자 한다. 그러므로 본 연구는 글로벌 패션 마켓에서 국내 패션 브랜드의 이미지를 고취시키고, 경쟁력을 높이는 방법으로서 한글의 기하학적 조형성에 관한 디자인 개발과 패션의 접목을 경쟁력 향상의 방안으로 제안하는 바이다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권9_10
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• pp.1475-1486
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• 2007

This study aims to develop knitted ware design to meet desire to express diversity in the modern fashion design so that we designed knitted ware by applying african geometric pattern and color to suggest new knitted ware design. We collect data about african texture pattern through technical books, publications, internet, and preceding research and visit and investigate the African museum. We investigate knitted Jacquard texture through preceding research and collect sample and data which is insufficient in the data source. The conclusions in this study are summarized as follows: First, African textile pattern is formulated with animism based on their religious view of art for a basis and African regards nature like animal and plant as a motive and interprets nature in the so that they can create symbolized geometric features that constitute African texture pattern. Those patterns is composed of extremely geometric figures so that they we fit to apply for color jacquad knit design. Second, color knitted jacquad can be distinguished by knitting method and status of knitting as 7 kinds of techniques such as Nomal, Bird'eye, Floating, Tubular, Ladder's back, Blister, Transfer Jacquard, and as a result of preceding research and knitting texture directly, jacquard technique makes different texture under same condition like consistent spinning rate and same crochet hook. Third, Bird'eye Jacquard used generally to make knitted ware and Ladder's back Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard used to make knitted ware light are fit to apply them to 7GG and 12GG machines. We design a cloak as a outer garment, a coat shaped like one-piece dress and a coat with hood by using Tubular Jacquard which can make thick texture and design a jacket, a skirt and a one-piece dress by using Bird'eye Jacquard. we make a light and flimsy one-piece dress by using Ladder's back Jacquard. Fourth, we apply the contrast of $4{\sim}6$ color and line and the contrast of texture and raw material to jacquard in order to emphasize texture property and visual property.

• 복식
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.5-14
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• 2001

Excavated costumes at the women's tomb in 17C have been sustained good condition. These materials give us that Jang ui(長衣) and so chang ui(소창의) with chechori(유), skirt, trousers(袴) reflects on women's fashion style at that time. By seeing these costumes, we can get the characteristics of costumes in mid-chosun era with chechori, skirt, jang ui, so chang ui etc. The features of chechori in this area are follows : form - diagonal gil, collar - kalkit and tangkokit, length - about 50cm, materials - silk, cotton, grass-cloth, kind - single, double. clothing padded with cotton wool etc. It is the first time that chang ui, one of Po, is excavated in this area. There are three pieces of jang ui which is significant data to study deeply on the costume in 1700's. Jang ui mainly made of silk in pattern, silk, cotton and decorated stylish printing on the robes. With these material and style, we can induce the mode of mid-chosun period. Through comparative studying we have many chances to understand women's the garment for the dead(염습의) in mid-chosun period.

• 감성과학
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• 제9권spc3호
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• pp.243-249
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• 2006

최근 직물 디자이너를 위한 직물 디자인 CAD, 의류 디자이너를 위한 패턴 디자인 CAD와 같은 상업화된 많은 CAD 시스템이 운영되고 있다. 그러나 소재를 제직하는 직물 제직 공장에서 적용할 수 있는 직물 설계디자인 시스템은 아직까지 운영되고 있지 않다. 그래서 본 연구에서는 직물설계에 관한 데이터 베이스 시스템의 초기 연구로서 여러 가지 실의 번수, 직물조직, 원료소재에 따른 직물의 경사와 위사 밀도를 쉽게 결정할 수 있는 직물 디자인 시스템에 관한 연구를 직물공장에서 사용하고 있는 나일론과 폴리에스테르 등의 합섬직물 설계서를 분석하여 수행하고자 한다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.73-87
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• 2004

In the designing stage, the HANBOK CHIMA is created using a flat pattern with linear shapes. However, when worn, the skirt creates a fluid and organic silhouette. According to the wearing method(wrapping), HANBOK CHIMA can create various shapes and movements. In comparison to the general skirt, It is more effective in revealing the wearer's sense of beauty. The method of wrapping the skirt from the rear is a suitable way of wearing the garment in accord with the Korean ON-DOL(온돌) culture and it creates mystique eroticism. We can devide the silhouettes according to six different period of time. The silhouette of HANBOK CHIMA is affected by the following elements: length, width, pleats, textures and the usage of underwear. [1. Koguryo (5C∼6C) - The first Tent silhouette. 2. The South Dynasty Silla (7C∼8C) - The second Tent silhouette. 3. Kyoryo dynasty (l4C) - Cylinder silhouette. 4. The first Chosun dynasty (late 14C∼17C) - Bell silhouette and Cylinder silhouette. 5. The second Chosun dynasty (mid 18C∼mid 19C) - Bell silhouette and Barrel silhouette. 6. The third Chosun dynasty (late 19C∼the beginning of 20C) - Tent, Cylinder and Bell silhouette.]

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.673-681
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• 2005

Sewing is an important process in clothes-making. It is directly or indirectly connected to a factor of fitness, as is the case of pattern making and design. The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the sewing methods for tight skirts currently being sold by twelve clothing companies on the market. For the purpose, the skirts, which was released in 2002 Fall season, was physically disassembled and then every sewing detail was closely investigated. The major findings are as follows: All sorts of the skirts show different sewing methods in hemlines, back slits, and zipper. Hemlines and zippers, hand-sewn, are often used by high-price brands. Brands that emphasize trends usually use machine sewing. Specifically, the sewing methods applied in the allowances at the upper part of the back slit show significant differences among brands. One method leaves allowances enough in both sides for the stability of the skirts, another trims both allowances very closely, and the other trims only left-side allowance down to the edge of the back slit. This study findings will be helpful not only in understanding sewing techniques for skirts and improving its quality, but also in offering more comfortable and superior clothes for consumers.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.485-500
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to develop the formal wear for social activity of dwarf. Second investigation for choices of designs based upon data from the first questionnaire investigation, led us to make proposals for design, pattern production, garment-cutting and dressmaking. The effect of wearing the made-up garments was carefully evaluated in order to establish principles for the development of clothes for dwarf. Conclusion is as follow. Dwarf felt uneasy in conventional street dress. When buying clothes their most important criteria was design wanted clothes that would help them to look taller. Analysis of design preference to complement perceived physical weak points revealed: 'a pink ensemble' comprising of a high-waist, one-piece dress, and a black slacks suit comprising of a striped, single-breasted, tailored jacket, and straight-type slacks and blouse. It was found that a bolero jacket and a high-waist, ankle-length, one-piece dress helped create an optical illusion of increased height, for both the wearer and an observer. A pastel ton-pink, one-piece also created this effect on small bodily types, as well as offering a silky, mellow attractiveness. A suit of a striped, single-breasted tailored jacket, and straight-type slacks and blouse, created the two fold illusion of disguising hip imbalance with the length of the jacket and drawing an onlooker\`s gaze to the wearer\`s face through the tailored collar, they also looked taller due to the stripes.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제40권6호
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• pp.185-195
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• 2002

This study was carried out to investigate the wearing silhouette of jackets according to the mechanical properties, primary hand value and total hand value of the 3 types of wool fabrics. Wool/PET(50/50), wool/PET(80/50) and wool(100%) fabrics were used as test specimens. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB system and primary hand value and total hand value were calculated by equation KN-203-LDY. We made three experimental jackets based on the precious jacket pattern and used Moir Photography to measure the amounts of space between the jacket clothes and body surface from the overlap cross section map. The results were as follows: 1) In mechanical properties, woo/PET(80/20) fabric showed higher bending and shear rigidity. 2) In evaluation of primary hand and total hand, wool 100% fabric showed higher NUMERI and FUKURAMI hand and total hand value. 3) From the reset of Moir Photography, the wearing shapes of the experimental jackets were influenced by the characteristics of fabrics. Except for the hip part, the garment ease of wool/PET(80/20) fabric was estimated more highly.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.347-362
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• 2012

The analysis results of the characteristics of children's clothes for school girls from the 2006S/S-2010S/S collections reveal that the most frequent type of item composition was 2'PS & 3'PS. T-shirts were the popular kind of item for upper garments and pants for lower garments. The major silhouettes were H and A line. The predominant neckline was U, which was followed by camisole and V. The major collar styles were stand-up and flat. Chromatic colors were used more than achromatic ones and after white the most popular colors were blue, pink, red, black, navy, and green. The dominant color scheme was a two-color or three-color scheme. The percentage of solid and patterned material garments was the highest and the most popular pattern was flowers. The most popular style of garment had no decorative detail that was followed by one-item, two-item, and three-item decoration. The major kinds of decorative detail were frills, pleats, and prints.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.1228-1241
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• 2010

This study aims to help understanding on design of basic pattern of shirt collars and to suggest schemes to raise completeness of shape by reviewing problems shown in finished products after sewing. From March 2009 to August 2009, 12 patterns for education and firms were collected centering on basic shirt collar form respectively. There are four problems generally raised from a completed shirt collar. In case of overlapping shirt collar on front neck point, the sewing point of shirt collar should be drawn at front neck point of collar band at a distance of about 0.2~0.3cm, and the center front of band and one of bodice should be arranged in a straight line. In case of the problem about right and left length difference of shirt collar, it is raised by closing so the problem was solved by prolonging about 0.2 cm of the center front of left collar. It was evaluated that adjusting notch point when sewing would be more rational solution than solving something on patterns for distance difference problem of shirt collar between right and left part at center front. And a problem about getting loose of front garment between collar band below and the first button was also raised. It was designed 0.2cm cut of collar band. Around basic shirt collar form, above mentioned solutions are applied to the patterns for education and manufacture experimental clothing. So as a result of sensory evaluation, generally good ratings on all items were received.