• Journal of Fashion Business
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.183-199
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• 2015

This study aimed to systematize the apparel vendor work processes and provide useful information to future employees of clothing export units by analyzing the processes of vendors' manufacturing tasks. A survey of 20 apparel vendors servicing mainly U.S. buyers was conducted on employees of overseas business departments working for more than five years. buyers. Based on the results, vendors mainly manufactured cut-and-sew knit products. Regarding the production method, OEM was used more frequently than ODM. Fourteen (70%) companies used the ODM method. This suggests that vendors are expanding their production method from OEM to ODM. In order to summarize the work of each business based on the clothing production process research results, buyers were in charge of planning products and the vendors were in charge of sampling. Production of materials and the approval of material tests were out sourced. Overseas factories of vendors were in charge of bulk (mass) production and garment finishing, as well as packaging and shipping the completed products. Even though the vendors' head offices do not directly produce clothes, they play a pivotal role in ensuring planning and management progress in clothing production. As buyers prefer direct contracts for cost reduction, the vendor additionally performs the role of an agent. Also, with the increase in ODM production ratio, the work area of the vendor is expanding. If Korean clothing exporters improve their global competitiveness by investing in the R&D of materials and design to enhance the ODM method, the development of Korea's clothing and export industry will benefit significantly.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.112-124
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• 2011

Textile and clothing in Ancient Egypt have carried long history and tradition. Especially, Egyptian textile culture, created mostly by the Copt, has the originality of weaving technology and the artistic beauty of the weaving motifs, making the textiles comparable to modern textiles. The purpose of this study is to research on the characteristics of Coptic textile designs of ancient Egypt and the tunic, a basic garment made of Coptic textiles, and offer materials for the development of the textiles and designs with artistic values which can be shared in the modern era, not just for the research of the relics of the past. Therefore, this study will follow the historical background of Coptic textiles and the process of the development, and look into the distinct features under the categories of material, colors and motifs. In addition, the tunic and its weaving technology will be explained and this will help understand the originality of Coptic textiles. The scope of this study is limited to the period of the 3rd to 12th centuries when the Egyptian weaving technologies advanced dramatically and many of the ancient Egyptian textiles discovered from the grave goods dates back, the research methode of the tunic as well as books published at home and abroad, research paper and photograph works. The textiles had developed along the Egyptian history which was influenced by different cultures such as Greek, Roman, pagan, Christian, and later, Islamic. For the textiles, they used a variety of pictorial motifs including Greek goddesses, pastoral scenes related to the Nile River and animals, human figures, geometrical figures and Christian icons. They are symbolic, natural, and mythological characters, and this explains that the world views and religions of the weavers influenced the development of specific motifs. Coptic textiles was used to make a tunic, a simple straight-sided gown without sleeves worn by men and women and was woven in a combination of linen plain weave and woolen tapestry weave for a tunic. Not only the excellence of the weaving technologies and the beauty of the colors used in the textiles, but also the diversity of the textures through weaving, embroidery, and knotting are detected in Coptic textiles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.269-279
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• 2005

Okso, Keun Seob($1671\sim1759$) was descended from a noble family of Noreun(노론) and learned from his uncle, Keun Sang-ha who is a disciple of Song Si-Yeol, Kim Chang-hyeub and Kim Chang-heub. His $\lceil$Oksoko$\rfloor$ remains in the form of a transcription or a lithographic printing, and documents on 'Hakchangeui' are recorded in jabeui(잡의), Euijedogi(의제도기), which is a part of it. He left Seoul in 1714, settled in Chungpung, journeyed to many places, including the Hwang river area and Jecheon and led a literary and artistic life as Sadaebu(사대부), which was written in a collection of his works where the record about 'Hakchangeui', the most suitable clothes for the life of a retired scholar remains today to express one part of his life. This study introduces data about Hakchangeui written in $\lceil$Oksoko$\rfloor$, pursues the reason why Okso, Keun Seob told about it and intends to embody the figure of Hakchangeui based on the system, measure, material, and sewing method according to the records in a collection. Hakchaneui described in $\lceil$Oksoko$\rfloor$ reveals a structure that is different from old Hakchaneui, showing characteristics like the following. It is a Sadaebu's costume for field amusement in which the length of a former part is longer than that of a later part and the side seam of a garment rips. Black Yeon is attached to the white texture. Yeon widths of Git(collar), Sugu and Gil are varied, respectively. Yeon's figure attached to Gil and Somaejindong is a mountain. Git is Bangryeong and link parts between Git and Gil is connected with Sangchim. This Hakchangeui is considered to playas a gown because it has no string or support to adjust his dress. Especially we can identify that Hwayanggun(화양건) was used in this Hakchangeui.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.116-135
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• 2008

To investigate the actual distribution condition and clothing construction factors of the working clothes supplied to the Changwon national industrial complex, 5 major companies in machinery, automotive, industrial engineering, shipbuilding and rolling stock in the industrial complex located in Gyeongsangnam-Do were selected. The questionnaire designed for the research consisted of working clothes distribution policies in manufacturing industry and the actual conditions of the design facts, repair and maintenance of the working clothes, etc. The analysis of the clothing construction factors of the working clothes provided by 5 respondent companies were conducted in parallel. The results derived from the study were as follows: The basic types of working clothes were the blouson jacket and straight pants; safety equipments for manufacture were safety helmets, gloves, snickers, goggles, masks, ear caps, wristlets, leggings, apron, etc. The size-charts adopted by the participant companies were the small-medium-large and cm/inch measurement size systems. To solve wearer's dissatisfaction with the garment fit, certain clothing construction factors were used, e.g. strap bands and the elastic band on a waist band. The types of fabrics used for the working clothes were mainly polyester/cotton and polyester/rayon blended ones. Moreover, to provide with more air permeability to wearers, the warp knit material was used to construct the lining and the armpit or back bodice slits. Lock, two-thread chain, safety, overedge stitches were applied with flat, lap felled, French, superimposed, lapped, bound and edge finishing seams to construct the working clothes selected.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.12-28
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to help develop high quality brassieres with functionality and comfort, fitting adolescents' physical features during their growth period. This study conducts a comparative analysis of juvenile brassiere and adult brassiere to identify the problems of brassieres in the market. The raw data for this study was processed by SPSS 10.1. The results of this study are summarized as follows: 1. The results of this survey show that the girls' satisfaction of their breasts has correlations between breast protrusion degree and volume. The girls think that if they have protrusive breasts their breast volume is big, and their breast satisfaction level shows high. 2. The results show that the objective of brassiere wearing is to prevent breasts sag and rupture, make good breast shape, balance their entire body shape, and make beautiful outer garment line. Brassiere functions are to prevent jiggle of breasts, make a good body line, and cover the nipples. For the grader school students, they are wearing brassiere to make a good balanced body and as their breasts developed, they are wearing brassiere for beautiful body shape not just to cover up their breasts. 3. In regard to brassiere cup size recognition, as students have higher grade at school, they have better recognition abouxt their cup size. As they are better aware of their cup size, they have better satisfaction with their cup size. Therefore, choosing the right size of brassiere for their bust is very important. 4. Girl students' brassiere preference shows that 317 students (56.9%) prefer white for brassiere colors, following pink and flesh color. Their most preferred brassiere material is cotton (354 people, 63.6%) because cotton is not sensitive even for weak skin. For brassiere style, 273 students (49%) prefer round style, following spots and mold. Their most preferred brassiere style is stake. In addition, brassiere should not press their breasts because their breasts are developing during puberty period.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제29권3호
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• pp.422-436
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• 2021

The fashion industry analyzes the value of its essence with ecological design and is expressed as an innovative sculpture using digital technology. Accordingly, this study explores ecological images and digital technologies, categorizes types and derives their meanings through analysis of ecological images shown in modern digital fashion. A literature survey was conducted on ecological images and digital technology as a theoretical background. To analyze the expression type and internal meanings of ecological images, designs with ecological formability were selected and analyzed from related journals, books, and internet sites. The finding are as follows: The expression type was first identified as organic curved garment silhouettes of a non-material liquid with digital retouching. Second, ecological fashion design includes structural shape that applies the silhouette of an organism and patterning of the ecosystem. Third, ecosystems consist of interactions between components of an ecosystem that appear in the interactive type. Accordingly, the internal meanings of ecological images in modern digital fashion are: first, digital fashion can encircle the inherent concepts of nature as organic collections of individuals; second, digital ecological images emphasize a sense of community with coexistence and harmony, playing a complementary role; and finally, the images express perceptual features by providing people with transcendent experiences. This study is significant as it analyzes new formative features based on ecological systems in the digital fashion environment, establishes an aesthetic system through internal meanings, and enhances awareness of human-natural relationships.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• 제26권8호
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• pp.113-125
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• 2021

This study aimed to develop a new Hanbok Jeogori prototype based on design extracted through a preference survey on new Hanbok Jeogori. This study was conducted based on K-patterns selected as excellent patterns in prior research and utilized the SPSS 27.0 program for analysis of appearance evaluation. As a result of the first appearance evaluation and garment pressure evaluation, the shoulder area was required to be modified, so the shoulder end point was moved within 1cm to rearrange the armhole line. Modification of sleeve length and circumference was also required, reducing sleeve length by 1.5cm and sleeve circumference by 0.5cm at both ends. As a result of the second evaluation, the length of Jeogori, hem circumference, and sleeve length were required, reducing the length of the front and back Jeogori by 1 cm and reducing the sleeve length by 1cm. The hem circumference was reduced by 0.2cm each in the princess line, which was highly evaluated in the final evaluation. In future research, it is thought that pattern studies by material, length, and age should be conducted and corrections should be derived through actual wear experiments.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.249-259
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• 2022

To analyze recent changes in designer-specific garment composition, detail, and design elements of jackets, we classified jackets from the Paris Haute Couture Collection from 2000 S/S to 2019 F/W according to their designers and examined their characteristics. Our analysis of the jackets by Armani, Chanel, Dior, Jean-Paul Gaultier, and Valentino shows that the hour-glass silhouette was most common in Armani, Chanel, Dior, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Valentino jackets; Chanel used more straight silhouettes compared to other designers. Most jackets, regardless of the designer, had midlength waist-to-bottom, tight sleeves fitted to the body, natural shoulder shape, and solid color. Moreover, woven fabric was the most common material. Jackets with no collar were the most common for Armani, tailored collars for Dior and Jean-Paul Gaultier, and standing collars for Chanel and Valentino. For the closure method, Armani used hook-and-eye, Chanel, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Valentino used button closures, and Dior used snap closures the most. New design attempts by designers are bringing details and design elements together. In an era characterized by an abundance of designs and frequent replacement of each brand's creative designers, it is important to create and maintain a brand's unique design identity and philosophy that can meet consumers' elevated standards, which tend to be biased towards new and stimulating designs due to the development of the IT industry.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.508-519
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• 2023

Muscle reduction owing to aging causes changes in physical function among the elderly. Fitness compression wear reduces fatigue by compressing the main muscles, expanding blood vessels, and rapidly discharging lactic acid. The effect of clothing pressure when wearing fitness compression wear for the elderly was objectively and subjectively evaluated for six women aged 55-64 years. The evaluation clothes were three types of tops and bottoms, one type of design (A) preferred among the existing compression wear, and two types of design (B and C). The objective evaluation items included clothing pressure, blood flow, surface temperature, and subjective satisfaction. It was found that clothing A had the highest clothing pressure in the straight posture and five fitness movements. Blood flow increased the most when wearing the evaluation clothing. The surface temperature was found to be the highest for clothing C, and subjective satisfaction was found to be the best when wearing evaluation clothing B. If the tensile strength was low and the tensile elongation was high, as in evaluation clothing B, it was recognized as appropriate clothing pressure, and the subject was subjectively satisfied. When manufacturing fitness compression wear in the future, it will be possible to increase users' objective and subjective satisfaction with wearing it, if the incision of the garment were placed at the location of the line of non-extension (LoNE), and appropriate material characteristics are applied.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.55-64
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• 2024

This study investigated the usage and product conditions of clothing companies and online dummy companies for the development of fitting dummy for South Korean women's wear in their 50s and 60s. These women-targeted apparel companies mainly used nude-sized torso type and torso crotch type made of FRP material. The frequency of use of the dummies was high, while the user satisfaction was moderate. Users expressed dissatisfaction with the inaccurate reflection of the body shape according to the KS sizing system and the measurements such as the front and back intercye, upper arms, abdomen, crotch, and waist back length. Upon survey, 73.7% of the respondents answered that development of the dummy and the appropriate age for it is 50 to 54, and they preferred the torso crotch form. In the production of online dummy companies, the torso crotch type and torso type were most widely produced, and polyurethane, FRP, and recycled paper materials were used. The size of dummy was expressed in numerical type, and 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 and 44, 55, 66, 77, 88 were being produced. Even models of the same size had significant deviation, especially in the waist circumference. Also, there was no dummy reflecting 25%~75% center interval to the KS garment sizing standards of women in their 50s and 60s. Therefore, it is desperately necessary to develop a fitting dummy for KS clothing sizing system that reflect their body sizes and shapes.