The cultures and traditions of Asia has the roots so deep and it is the origin of inspiration. Therefore, it is easy to find a different inspiration when designing, expecially for Western designers who are seeking European tradition and its comparison. The most distinctive feature of the Asian look is non-structural and has no clear form close to the structure of the body or mathematical ratio, but is steric with 2-Dimensional planed textiles, and has a flexible, non-structural formative characteristic related to the movable body. This is base on the vision of the universe that regards the parts as the whole. From this research, generally studying about the Asian look and its non-structural formative characteristics. The study looked closely into the aesthetic value of non-structural formative characteristics formation, with basis on the large dress regulation system of the western reasoning and rationalism and mechanism. At first, my study pointed on the dressing functionalism or Neo-classism considering emotions, Anti-Western aspect observing surrealism dressing and expressionism dressing. Second, with men and women showing similar outer shape without the equivalent element such from wearing a corset, the sexism is abolished. Finally, the designers’ inner intention of art is being delivered, from the aspect that the expression of art, size and no waste of fabric shows effort of communicating with the world, giving value to the possibility of continuance.
Recently in the post-modernism era ethnic look tropical look or ecological look has prevailed as an important theme of fashion all over the world. The main core of these themes is based on primitivism. The purpose of this study was first to com-prehend the internal meaning and the exteral form of primitivism in modern fashion second to compare the characteristics of primitivism in art with those in modern fashion as one of the phenomena in cultural consistency. For this purpose documentary studies about primitivism in social science and art were preceded as a framework of this study and then objective studies about primitivism in modern fashion and art were analyzed. Primi-tivism expressed in clothing since the 16th century was also historically traced. the results were as follows: 1. Primitivism in modern fashion was summarized by emotionality play ecology and aboriginality as well as was represented by ex-ternal forms of open form part-to-whole re-lation planar intergration rounded form and indeterminate form It was demonstrated that the external form of primitivism in art and fashion is quite similar and is an example of cultural consistency. So it is reaffirmed that fashion is the production of culture representing zeitgeist as a genre of art. 2, Modernism in the early 20th century brought the richness of materials through the de-velopment of the mechanical culture emphasizing rationality as well as functionalism, Fashion also has been influenced by this modern-ism so it has tended to express only the beauty which emphasizes the functional aspects of clothing and excludes the decorative characters. The primitivism in recent fashion is against the flow of modernism. In a word the pursuit for the regression to nature and the recovering of hu-manity is the core of the primitivism in modern fashion.
This study examined the characteristics of furniture design in the early Modernism that occurred in the early 20th Century through the relationship with modern arts. The furniture design of the early Modernism was established in the early 20th Century based on the simplicity and honesty of the Art and Crafts Movement and Anti-Historicism in Art Nouveau. During this period, the necessity of mass production became critical due to the radical industrialization and new social demands. In such periodic stream, the furniture design of the early modernism pursued simplicity and geometric beauty based on functionalism. The efforts to discover the fundamental structure of furniture were intensified. It was not limited to furniture design but was also exercised in the huge periodic transformation that progressed in every field of art including architecture. The Modernism art has also been connected to Cubism and spread into an abstract direction. While questioning the potential essence and progressing the study on genuine characteristics, the Modernism art tried to return things into their substantial looks and reorganize them conceptually, rather than reproducing external objects. The furniture that was secondary to a part of architecture and interior accessory transcended its decorative purpose. It pursued the structure to follow its fundamental purpose as furniture. Such tendency corresponded to the direction that Post-Modernism followed. Likewise, both art and design had the revivable and abstract characteristics based on the identical objective in ideology. For this reason, the formative and geometric characteristics of the early modernism furniture design have a mutual relationship with modern arts. Particularly, such tendency intensified and progressed through the Bauhaus in Germany. Based on such facts, this study proved that the early Modernism furniture design in the 20th Century tended to appear in common arts including the art and design according to the social demand of the huge periodic stream. Furthermore, the ideology that was adopted in art and design, as well as its formative characteristics, was examined through the mutual relationship of modern arts and design.
The purpose of this study is to interpret Gaudi's philosophy of architecture through an analysis of the design characteristics in his remodeling of Casa Battlo. A review of the literature related to Casa Battlo as well as a field study in Barcelona to see the building were made for this study. The conclusions were as follows; Casa Battle is one of the best examples of Gaudi's attempts at creating a surreal atmosphere and should be evaluated in light of the following considerations: 1) Casa Battle as a remodeled house presented its own restrictions to Gaudi that he overcame by introducing characteristic design elements into the remodeling process; 2) the achievement, a perfect sculpture expressing continuity through a gorgeous colour scheme using different materials and design motifs with a dynamic spiral shape, originated from Gaudi's observations of nature and his experiences working in modeling studios; 3) a visualized embodiment of Gaudi's naturalism and functionalism through the impression of perpetual movement and continuity as formative symbols of genesis, life, death, and transmigration of the soul, originated from Gaudi's personal experiences of the early deaths of several close family members; 4) the design is meant to show the same processes of creation used by nature rather than a mere imitation of nature. Gaudi was not only a person dedicated obsessively to his profession as an architect, but also a rationalist fundamentally in the way he operated. It was expected that this study could be employed as a small stimulus to challenge the paradigm of housing remodeling projects -a hot issue in today's Korea- especially in their philosophical aspect.
The aim of this research is to examine the tendency of national tastes reflected in global SPA brands based on the theories of Gans' taste culture and Bourdieu's cultural capital. In this study, the leading global SPA brands such as H&M, ZARA, GAP and UNIQLO can be considered as a representative taste culture as well as an icon of popular culture in the $21^{st}$ century global fashion and also the aesthetic taste of each brand differentiated from their national aesthetic values based on socio-cultural backgrounds. H&M represents fashionableness, practicality and environmental friendliness based on naturalism, democratic humanism, and functional practicality of Sweden. ZARA emerges as the most trend oriented brand as well as customer centered on the basis of cultural diversity, passion and glamorous artistic sensibility of Spain. GAP shows American iconic style, which is the functional sports casual wear, originated from American leisure culture and mass production. Lastly, UNIQLO represents high-tech functionalism and practical simplicity based on Japanese delicate workmanship and simple, concise lifestyle while relatively does not much follow the fashion forward trends. Consequently, the national taste has been proved as a solid foundation to identify each global brand. This should be the key component also applied to Korean global brands for developing their concepts and strategies more successfully based on our own national aesthetic taste.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.19
no.2
/
pp.340-355
/
1995
purpose of this study was to trace historically the causes of the visual inconsistency of seXual ilT'age in dress with versatile perspectives. For this purpose, theoretical studies about the concepts of sexuality in dress were precceded. To trace the factors of the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress, historical studies from ancient Egypt to modern ages were done. And then, the factors of the visual inconsist\ulcornerency of sexual image in dress were identified. The synthetic results were as follows; L The visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress shows the phenomena that men introduce the traditional feminine image in dress (ex. X silhouette, skirts), whereas women do the traditional masculine image (ex. Y silhouette, pants), which arouse androgynous image in appearance. And, it also indicates that men or women wear the dress excluded the traditional masculine image as well as the traditional feminine image, which arouse neutral image in appearance. 2. The visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress have been existed historically, from Egypt to modern ages. 3. The visual inconsistency of sexual image III dress was caus~d by various factors as follows; First, ideal beauty of the times which did not distinguish between masculinity and femininity resulted in the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress. Second, as a means of seeking pleasure, the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress was used. Third, as a means of expressing ideology, the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress was selected. Forth,in religious meaning,the visual inconsistency ofl sexual image in dress was appeared. Fifth,popularization of sports and occupational role made woman adopt the masculine image in dress in view of the aspects of functionalism. Sixth,Undevelopment of taloring contributed to generate androgenous image in dress.
The purpose of this study is research on the characteristics of post-modernism expressed on western hair styles in the late 20th century. Therefore this thesis analyzed the relationship of modernism & the hair styles of that mage and post-modernism & the hair styles of that mage. That will re-illuminate the same beauty worth of same age as to accurate the concept of post-modernism & the hair styles of that mage. And the last, criticizing the post-modernism design and that hair design, helping to find new trends. The method of this study was the literature research & analysis of visual materials focus on upper bust image that can know the relationship of modernism & the hair styles of that mage, and post-modernism & the hair styles of that mage. First, the literature research is composed of analysis of theses, magazines on art, clothing and cosmetology having the contents of 20th century western culture, art and hair styles. Second, the analysis of visual materials is composed of analysis of video films, slide films and photographs of books, magazines, and internet home-pages. Modern western hair styles, appeared after 1910's, is represented as a short cut & permanent wave. That express experimentalism, functionalism, and purism, that is same as the other art's trend of same age. Post-modern western hair styles, appeared after 1960's, also show the same trend with same age's. This summarized & characterized 8 categories; historical method, pluralism, negotiation, escape from the formality, recovery of humanity, ornament, connection with race, metaphor & symbolism. But post-modernism concentrating pluralism makes easy making low quality art and absence of criticism, so this thesis criticised it 5 categories; absence of ideas, absence of the social sense of responsibility, lost of one's characteristics, decline of skills, decline of worth of usages.
This paper investigates morphological theory as an intellectual framework for research and design. The first part of the paper will review morphological studies in the fields of urban geography, urban planning and architecture, particularly in England from the 1940s to the 1980s. While urban geographers and planners were concerned primarily with town plans, building forms and land use, architectural theoreticians were more interested in the topological relationship between urban and architectural space. The underlying premises and principles of these two approaches will be reviewed. The second part of the paper will focus on typology in Europe and North America. The reinterpretation of typology by Italian architects helped to bridge the gap between individual elements of architecture and the overall form of the city. However, typological theory became less accessible in post-war England and the United States. After 1980, the debate on typology became muted by the onset of vague notions such as functionalism, bio-technical determinism, and contextualism. This paper will propose a redefinition of morphology as a heuristic device, in contrast with the dichotomic view of urban morphology and architectural typology. Morphology will be shown to combine the geometrical and topological; the intentional and accidental; the real and abstract; and a priori and a posteriori. The last part of the paper discusses the lack of comparative theories and methods surrounding the physical form of architecture and the city by Korea commentators. Empirically rooted facility planning, non-comparative historical studies, and iconographic criticism emerged as a central preoccupation of architectural culture between the 1960s and 1980s, a time when international debate on architecture and urbanism was most intense. This paper will give consideration to the built environment as a dynamic physical entity and space as an epiphenomenon of daily urban life, such that collaboration between urban designers, architects, and landscape architects is seen as both beneficial and necessary.
This paper is to research on the characteristics of the recipient furniture design that requires changes reflected in the contemporary socio-cultural factors in the convergence culture, as represented by the digital and IT. The purpose of this study is, as specific methods therefore, to research in both perspectives the design of the after industrial revolution of functionalism and the case of the Memphis group which is expressed the appearance of diverse social atmosphere of the 20th century. Based on this, it will illuminate the appearance of the furniture designs recipient requires changes in universal modern society of values of complex convergence. To reveal that sociocultural factors that accept values of society are important in predicting the future of furniture design is the object of this study. It recognizes that a key element of modern furniture design will be based on a broad and deep study.
The built-in kitchen that is seen in every household is one of the achievements of the modernism architecture in early 20th century. Developed on the basis of two axis, one of which is the high industrialization and the other the sceptical assessment on the traditional value-system, the 20th century was launched in the form of the twofold entanglement, through the unfolding of which the cultural code of the modernism could be operated. The Quantification of the psychic that was attempted by H. v. Helmholtz and E. Mach in the pursuit of the reunification of sensation to the normal science was the first thread of that, while the second the break-down of the authoritative ideology and the emancipation of woman labour, which were initiated by the leftist movements. In this situation Margarete Schutte-Lihotzky was the woman architect who has tried to overcome the patriarchism in the household through architectural work by dwelling on that the emancipation of the housewives from the inefficient household labour is directly connected with the accomplishment of human freedom. She applied the modernist functionalism to the designing the kitchen for that purpose and outlined the effective range and operational realm of the rationalization. After all this the future preoccupying endeavor became the decisive moment that gave birth to a aesthetically and functionally good deliberated design of the kitchen in the present. This study is purposed to actualize the architectural ideas of Lihotzky into the present context through the consideration on the Frankfurt Kitchen of her and to grope for the relationship between architecture and feminism on the common horizon of the functionalist architecture and the women's liberation.
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