• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.609-618
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine the inconvenience when putting on stretch pants and to compare and analyze the pattern making method of pants made of the stretch and non-stretch fabric to develop functional and good looking stretch pants. For this study, we conducted a survey of women in their twenties and collected the basic data and master pattern through material of a woman's wear brand and the interview and questionnaires. The results of this study are as follows. First, the survey result for the woman consumers showed that pants were estimated as the most uncomfortable item among the stretch clothes and when they put the stretch pants on, the most uncomfortable parts of out-shell were the hip girth and rise. Secondly, the result of pattern making method of the pants was as follows. The ease of the stretch pants pattern was 0cm in the waist girth and -1 to -1.5cm in the hip girth more than non-stretch pants. The ease in crotch, inseam and outseam length was 0cm for both.

• 전자공학회논문지S
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• 제34S권11호
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• pp.25-33
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• 1997

The end-to-end rate-based control mechanism is used for the flow control of the ABR service to allow much more flexibility in ATM switching system. To accommodate the ABR service effciently many algorithms such as EFCI, EPRCA, ERICA, and CAPC2 have been proposed for the switch algorithm. ABR cells and related RM cells are received at the ATM switch fabric transparently without any processing. And then cells received from the traffic source are queued in the ABR buffer of switching system. The ABR buffer usually has some thresholds for easy congestion control signal transmission. Whatever we use, therefore, these can be many ABR traffic control algorithms to implement the ABR transfer capability. The genertion of congestion indicate signal for ABR control algorithms is determined by ABR buffer satus. And ABR buffer status is determined by ABR cells transfer ratio in ATM switch fabrics. In this paper, we presented the functional structures for control of the ABR traffic capability, proposed the readout scheduling, cell slot allocation of output link and the buffer allocation model for effective ABR traffic guranteeing with considering CBR/VBR traffics in ATM switch. Since the proposed readout scheduling scheme can provide more avaliable space to ABR buffer than existing readout scheduling scheme, generation rate of a SEND signal, that is, BCN signal in destination node can be increased for ABR call connection. Therefore, the proposed scheme, in this paper, can be appropriate as algorithm for effective ABR traffic service on output link of ATM switching node.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.1-6
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• 2009

Recently, polyester is widely used in textile fabrics due to its application potentials in various fields. It is known that askin fabric is prepared with mainly polyester and is enjoyed with various end uses such as marine clothing, underwear, shirts, swimming suits and so on. For this purpose, color fastness should be considered with great importance during its wet processing step. In this context, vat dyes were very much attracted due to the advantage of superior fastness property. Thus, we have used indigo dye towards askin fabric dyeings and investigated corresponding properties namely, dyeing temperature, concentration of dye, reducing agent amount and alkali amount. The results showed that higher color strengths of indigo dyeing on askin fabric were obtained at $110^{\circ}C$, 8% o.w.f, 3g/l, 5g/l, respectively. The color fastness to washing was considerable generally.

• 복식
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• 제54권6호
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• pp.13-23
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• 2004

To date, Italian fashion rans the top even its rise is far behind Paris and New York. The purpose of this study is to analyze and compare the aesthetic characteristics of the italian fashion through two representative designers who contributed to italian fashion. Italy had unique industrial system and craftsmanship from the history and sense of the beauty and the uniqueness from the culture. After the World War II, Italy started to produce elegant sportswears influenced by the progressive manufacturing techniques and practical culture of America. Italian fashion of 'easy elegance' is spearheaded by Vesace and Armani. The aesthetic characteristics of Italian fashion which are shown in the artworks of them are as follows. First, the characteristics of Versace dated from southern sensibility are sensualism, expressionism, historicism. 1) Sensualism: tight silhouette, overexposure, glamorous form, brilliant color, fabric showing femininity, gaudy accessaries 2) Expressionism: brilliant print and color, trimmings and accessaries 3) Historicism: form and motifs that are shown in the historical costume Second, the characteristics of Armani succeeded from northern tailoring are purism, functionalism, and multi-culturism. 1) Purism: clean lines, architectural and geometric forms, natural body line, neutral tones, luxurious fabric 2) Functionalism: functional form, neutral tone, natural fabrics 3) Multi-culturism: design and motif inferred from ethnic costume As such. competition between two different groups made it possible that Italian fashion occupies a special place in the international fashion system.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권6호
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• pp.745-752
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• 2005

Green tea has various medical effects. It was selected as new natural dyes guessing the effects of the biological activities are still appeared on dyeing. It was examined whether they have the function of Uv-blocker or not. Cotton, linen & Hanji were dyed with Green tea. Al, Cr, Cu, Fe and Sn were selected as the mordant and the UV blocking rate of dyed samples was measured. The results of this study as follows; 1 . The color of dyed samples with Green tea changed yellowish red except Hanji and linen mordanted with Fe. 2. K/S values of dyed samples with Green tea increased by the number of dyeing treatment(p<.01). 3. UVA and UVB blocking rate increased by the number of dyes. Cotton and Linen could block the UV radiation over $93\%$ and Hanji could block over $95\%$ after three times of dyeing. These results suggest that Hanji has possibility far various practical uses of clothing material in beautiful and functional aspect. It could have the biological effects when we put on dyed clothing material with Green tea.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.63-75
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• 2016

This study examines the organic geometry in Isabel Toledo's collections in terms of the practicality of American sportswear tradition. This study conducts literary survey combined with case analysis of Toledo's works from her debut collection in 1985 to the recent ones. The organic geometry in Toledo's designs refers to the conversion of two-dimensional garment patterns into three-dimensional garment forms with the body as a medium, which is classified into the following categories in this study. First, 'fluidity' describes Toledo's highly fluid jersey dresses which maintain consistent structures by patchwork draping and suspension technique. Second, 'reductionist structure' illustrates that simple geometric shapes such as circles and squares disappear as soon as worn on the body. Third, 'origami construction' explains folding two-dimensional fabrics into three-dimensional forms, which causes the outlines of the body to appear abstract. Toledo's designs deliver the tradition of American sportswear through the organic geometry of garment construction. Toledo's works are authentic American in the aspects that they are functional and modern; they satisfy the practical needs, prioritize the movements of wearers, pursue multi-functions, and their ornamental elements are accompanied by the construction of garments. Isabel Toledo presents designs drawing on her unwavering aesthetics while continuously developing and experimenting creative ways of garment construction.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.309-317
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• 2015

This study is the high contraction processing conditions set by the method of the CPB process. And the ultimate goal of this study is the high contraction of the CPB processing test method that can solve the problems of the high-contraction fabric processing method of the current jet dyeing machine. Non-coating process(CPB process) developed by the expression of a soft touch, light weight, functional and to develop excellent breathable nylon fabric. The nylon fabrics established the optimum processing conditions through the high contraction of the various test conditions, the CPB system.(The benzyl alcohol was used as the main constrictor.) At this time, the warp and weft contraction of nylon fabric was about 20%. And it established the constrictor concentration, the treatment temperature, time of a variety of tests. Also non-coating process(CPB process) can develop soft touch, lightweight, excellent air permeability. As a result, we developed a high contraction nylon fabric having a uniform surface. Manufactured fabric is used for Wind-proof and Down-proof.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.39-56
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• 2004

At the outset, surrealism starts from pure art, but surrealism has greatly influenced commercial art and fashion circles, more so than any other genre of art. The critical thinking methods of surrealism and its mode of expression continues to influence fashion theory extensively. Even now, surrealism may be found in the designs presented in fashion circles and is still expected for future lines. Surrealism in modern fashion has been reborn, newly integrated and transformed, based on the features of Surrealism paintings. The characteristics of its forms can be found in a combination of modern material, modern design and new skills and the classical items : bodyform molding context of architecture, experimental and sex-appealing of body. Expression was made by borrowing natural motives and recreating natural fabrics while the existing typical idea about clothes was destructed, with the boundary of patterns changed. Expression was also made by mixing items, uniting future images, and using up-to-date functional techniques. This study is significant that up-to-date technological culture expands cyber-space and increases surrealistic expressions by combined heterogeneous materials, thus arousing much interest. The purpose of this study is to determine interrelationship between how surrealism developed and what formative properties those clothes affected by surrealism obtained in the 1990s.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제35권2호
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• pp.67-81
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• 2023

This study aims to examine the possibility of using dried Dondropanax morbiferus extract as a functional dye. The leaves and branches of were extracted with distilled water and 30% ethanol, and the dyeability and functionality of silk fabrics were examined according to the color characteristics of the extract and dyeing conditions. As a result of analyzing the ultraviolet and visible light absorption spectrum of the extract, it was possible to confirm the peak of flavonoid belonging to polyphenol, and the peak of riboflavin expressing yellow color was confirmed. Adsorption equilibrium was observed at 4% dyeing concentration and 60 minutes of dyeing time, and as the temperature increased, dyeing amount increased without color change of Y-series. Aluminum mordanting also increased the yellow color. The color fastness of washing and UV irradiation was low, but the color fastness of rubbing was evaluated as relatively good. The silk fabric dyed with the distilled water extract of the leaves showed a 99.9% bacteriostatic reduction against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae, showing excellent antibacterial properties.

• 생명과학회지
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• 제26권8호
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• pp.936-942
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• 2016

본 연구는 초피의 항균 활성 소재의 산업화 타진 연구로 초피과피 정유 성분의 경우 높은 생산단가로 인해 그 활용이 제한적이다. 이에 초피잎을 대상으로 항균 활성소재를 탐색하고 초피의 천연 방향성과 항균력을 이용하여 실내 환경 개선 소재 특히 친환경 항균블라인드 개발에 대한 활용 가능성을 타진하였다. 그 결과, 초피잎 추출물의 항균 활성은 초피과피 추출물보다 약하게 나타났지만, K. pneumoniae, S. aureus와 S.mutans 균에 대하여 IC₅₀ 값은 0.5 mg/ml, 0.1 mg/ml와 1.0 mg/ml로 운향과 유래 타 Zanthoxylum 속 보다 항균력이 강한 것으로 나타났다. 항균력이 강하게 확인된 초피잎 EtOH 추출물과 EtOAc 추출물의 GC-MS 분석을 통해 초피잎 유래의 항균력 관련 화합물로서 quinic acid, 3,5-dihydroxy-6-methyl-2,3-dihydro-4H-pyran-4-one과 kaempferol 등을 확인할 수 있었다. 또한, International Standard Fabrics Test Method에 준하여 초피 추출물을 처리한 블라인드 소재의 항균력을 조사한 결과, 1% 농도의 초피잎 EtOH 추출물을 처리한 직물 블라인드 소재의 경우는 항생제 내성균 S. aureus의 생육을 99.9% 저해하였고, 2% 농도의 처리에 의해서는 K. pneumoniae 생육도 완전히 저해하였다. 이러한 연구결과는, 고가인 초피과피에 비해 농산폐자원으로 폐기되고 있는 초피잎의 항균력을 이용하여 친환경 기능성 항균 직물 블라인드 및 실내 창호 소재를 개발한다면 최근 급증하는 실내 환경성 질환의 예방 및 제어에 매우 유용할 수 있음을 시사한다.