• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.105-114
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to investigate the diverse constructive characteristics which significantly affects performance besides materials information provided to consumers on functional clothes. Outdoor jackets can classified them according to their performance level. In order to provide consumers with necessary information to choose functional outdoor jackets, 12 brands selling domestic outdoor jackets were investigated and the conclusion of this study was as follows; It was found that fit degree, backpack weight, arm-raise, and number of pockets vary differently depending on performance level of outdoor jacket. Considerable constructive difference was found between high performance jacket mainly worn by professional climbers in extreme environment and jacket that can be worn in daily life. It is found that different characteristic is related not only to each diverse & complex constructive aspect, but also to ability to stretch, resistance to water, venting system of materials depending on performance level of outdoor jacket.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.823-833
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• 2014

The objective of this study was to take a closer look at the clothing benefits sought by breast cancer survivors in Korea. A qualitative descriptive study was conducted, using the focus group interview. Data was collected from members of online breast cancer forum. 18 participants were breast cancer survivors who had mastectomy or lumpectomy in their 30s~50s. The data was analyzed using content analysis in order to identify significant themes. The analysis indicated that benefits were sought after functional/comfort, health, feminity, and compensation were found. First, breast cancer survivors considered functional/comfort to be most important benefit so as to keep the body comfortable from the weather. Second, participants put the healthy body as the first priority and chose a well-being lifestyle and were likely to wear clothes made in healthy fabric, such as organic, bamboo or charcoal. Also, they preferred to look active by wearing sport brands or outdoorwear brands. Third, after the surgery, they experienced the sense of femininity loss and the sense of crisis as a woman. Single women and married women in early 30s recognized more seriously, and they tried to recover feminity by wearing clothes with feminine details. Forth, breast cancer survivor consumers tended to shop for the psychological compensation. In summary, consumers with breast cancer surgery, unlike general healthy women, did not sought to be economic, fashion, self-expression benefits, rather they sought health, femininity, and compensation benefits. Therefore, it seems necessary to develop proper products and marketing strategy to meet the said consumer's special needs.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.793-799
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• 2015

Hanboks have evolved throughout time; for example, the curved Barae has changed into a more modern and sophisticated straight one. The development of staining techniques has increased color selections with more luxurious designs. I suggested a design of Dolbok that considers functionality, practicality and economic feasibility through a comparison of past and present designs. I suggested a fusion Hanbok based on a traditional Dolbok for baby boys and girls. An abundance of cheap resources has decreased the tradition of hand down clothes; therefore, I created functional and economic methods to adjust a Hanbok for kids to wear a long time. First, I made it possible to adjust the length of a skirt by a slip stitch (or catch) stitch with a Seurandan (ornate lower band) and placed the button on shoulder part of the skirt for baby girls. The width of skirt is designed for a 4 year old instead of 1 year old to adjust the size and compensate for growing kids; however, the clothes still look stylish despite the overlapped area. Second, I made a baby boy's vest with a belt that follows traditional methods that were comfortable for width variation. Third, I made Geodeulji (sleeve-ends trimmed with wide bias) that enabled long or short sleeves. Geodeulji made with a variety of fabric colors will enhance the decorative effect. Fourth, I made the width of clothes adjustable by putting Korum (tie) ON Jeogori for baby boys and girls. There are many studies on Hanboks but few reports on modern Dolbok. I believe that designers should further study fusion Hanboks within framework of traditional Hanbok designs to increase comfort and appeal.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.98-115
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• 1999

As sports infiltrates each field of modern society and becomes familiar, sports wear was changed functionally and was introduced and enveloped into everyday dress. Modern sports wear has been the settled in everyday life deeply and become the clothes of life which are worn regardless of place, time and age. The aim of this paper was to clarify what kind of fashion of sports style would be given to the modern people. In this study, sports wear which has become everyday dress classified from a gender point of view. It was divided into masculine image, feminine image, and neutral image. Sports wear of masculine image generated a silhouette which emphasized the shoulder with the aspiration for youth and health. Wide shoulder was considered as the symbol of masculine beauty and the expression of healthy beauty. It was reflected well in body conscious look. And owing to the development of up-to-data materials, innovation of design, and the study of human body technology, the functional character was settled in the sports wear which showed masculine image. Sports wear of feminine image was represented fashion of body exposure, body feet with body conscious look, and romantic mode. This image was expressed fashion as comforts, pleasant, active design, materials, color, and romantic feminine beauty. Sports wear of neutral image was expressed into unisex clothes. This cloths have no difference in gender, age, and class. It was used as casual sports wear. In the 1960s, young generation participated in such street sports as street basketball and skate. They usually sore the sports wears of neutral image such as cycling, skating, and ski. In the materials of sports, the development of up-to-data material like lycra made the sayings lifelike, “up-to-data material is the second skin” It show that glamorous feminine image and strong masculine image coexisted. The contemporary concept of sportswear is no longer limited to those clothes for sports found in such places like tennis court or swimming pool. Now, the sports wear become more like casual activity wear all classes of people can enjoy in their life regardless of where they are, when they wear, and even how old they are.

• 복식
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• 제62권6호
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• pp.154-164
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to investigate the modernizations of traditional Saekdong by analyzing the magazines from the 1955 to 1995. The application of Saekdong extended during the 1950s. Before, Saekdong was only used for children; however, women were wearing it during this period. With the advancement of the fabric industry in the 1960s, a great popularity of Saekdong was witnessed and its application extended even further. During the 1970s, the Saekdong was applied in westernized clothes; however, the 1980s was a time of renaissance for Saekdong as the awakening of national identity movement began. The application of Saekdong in westernized clothes became more popular during the 1990s as the widespread of industrial designing was inspired by the tradition. The functional aspect of Saekdong such as recycling the leftover fabrics decreased over the years whereas the decorative aspect increased. The form of Saekdong became more variant. The Saekdong was applied either as a part or whole of the clothes. With the development of the mechanically woven Saekdong, various widths and forms of Saekdong, not only vertical lines but also diagonal and wave lines, appeared. The colors also changed. During the 1990s, low chroma and gradation methods were applied. Gold and silver threads also were woven together. The motifs were created and gilts were printed on Saekdong.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.47-59
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• 2005

This study aims to measure stretch rate of standard weight in the $2{\times}1$ rib stitch and $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, and to apply features of rib stitch to the knit pattern. The reviewer examined the sample knit for test with 100% wool, $2/48's{\times}2$, 12 gauge, and then made knit patterns and sample clothes for test considering stretch rate of standard weight of 10gf, 15gf, 20gf, 25gf based on the results from the former test, and finally estimated the try-outs for sample clothes. This study came out with the following results: From the functional estimate of knit patterns made by standard stretch rate of each stitch, the 20gf weight sample clothes of $2{\times}1$ and $2{\times}2$ rib stitchs were in high estimate. For the bust, B/4~ -4.6cm knit pattern was made of $2{\times}1$ rib stitch, B/4~5.3cm of $2{\times}2$ rib stitch. In conclusion, because $2{\times}1$ and $2{\times}2$ rib stitchs has the much higher stretch rate in the direction of the course than $0{\times}0$ ad $1{\times}1$ rib stitchs, high stretch rate of standard weight should be applied to the case of making knit wear. It is expected that this will lead stable sizing and measurement system when used in making knit patterns, and satisfy knit wearers' various needs.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.769-780
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• 2004

This study aims to measure stretch rate of standard weight in the direction of the knit stitch course by the difference in the way of weaving rib stitch, the most elastic stitch of all the knit stitches and to apply features of rib stitch to the knit pattern. The reviewer examined the sample knit for test with 100% wool, 2/48's 2, 12 gauge, and then made knit patterns and sample clothes for test considering stretch rate of standard weight of 10gf, l5gf, 20gf, 25gf based on the results from the former test, and finally estimated the try-outs for sample clothes. This study came out with the following results. From the functional estimate of knit patterns made by standard stretch rate of each stitch, the l5gf weight sample clothes of 0×0 and 1×1 rib stitches looking similar to plain stitch. For the bust, B/4-1.0㎝ knit pattern was made of 0×0 stitch, B/4-1.2㎝ of 1×1 rib stitch. In conclusion, because rib stitch has the much higher stretch rate in the direction of the course than other stitches, low stretch rate of standard weight should be applied to the case of making knit wear. It is expected that this will lead stable sizing and measurement system when used in making knit patterns, and satisfy knit wearers' various needs.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.41-54
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to research on status of physical discomfort and clothing life including clothing inconvenience for enhancing self-reliance of elderly women, newly emerging consumer. The subject of research were 346 elderly women who aged 60 or older in Seoul and Seoul Suburbs. Survey consisted of questions about body discomfort, satisfaction and purchasing criteria of ready-to-wear, the inconvenience of clothing. The results of this study are as follows: Physical discomforts were generally associated with the ability to regulate body temperature. The biggest complaint of ready-to-wear was the price, and the next were the size and activity. In purchasing criteria, 'clothes to fit my body shape', 'clothes easy to put on and take off', 'comfortable clothes to work' showed high score. In clothing inconvenience, 'feel inconvenience due to several layers of clothing to avoid chilliness', 'feel heaviness in the waist due to tightness', 'feel chilliness even when wearing several layers of clothing in the winter' were the most uncomfortable parts. Subjects over the age of 80 years and needed the help of others in activities experienced more inconvenience in clothing life. It seems that body discomfort such as dulness of movement and loss of body temperature regulation capability due to aging had a influence on their clothing life. This problem could be improved by the adjustment of pattern allowance, the selection of the fastener, and the proper use of functional fabric. The results of this study will be used as a basis for development of the elderly women's clothing to increase convenience and mobility in everyday life.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.603-612
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• 2007

Giorgio Armani has made a huge success with his own persistent unique fashion styles for the last 30 years. But he too went through a transitional period during which he was criticized for lacking the so-called Armani design. Overcoming the confusion, however, he succeeded in recreating his styles of elegant image and fascinating people with his practical and yet sophisticated modern classical styles that he pioneered. The design characteristics of his men's clothing are as follows; functional and comfortable slim silhouettes that bring life to the curves of the human body, grey-based mixed colors in a natural atmosphere, natural materials such as wool, silk, and cashmere that are light and soft and have great drape properties with femininity, solid patterns with stripes, checks, and geometrical figures added, and the elegance expressed in moderate decorations such as a handkerchief and scarf. Armani men's clothing has enjoyed ongoing popularity and success across the world because it transcends time and allows men to maintain their class not being bound by the formality. It's also important to notice that Armani takes into account the perspectives of both men who wear his clothes and women who look at the men in his clothes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.635-654
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• 2012

This paper studied sports-inspired fashion(SIF) that is often characterized as 'designer clothes inspired by active sportswear.' First, we reviewed the social, economical, artistic, and technological background behind its development. Second, we studied the development history of SIF by classifying it into four periods. Third, we analyzed how SIF emerged and developed with its own characteristics from a historical perspective. For a theoretical background, we did a critical review of previous literature in the field of clothing history, history of culture, and art history. We collected the data from magazines, such as Fashion Show and Gap Press and from the internet sources as well, such as firstviewkorea.com. We also did the content analysis of the data by consulting a chosen group of fashion designers. This study revealed that active sportswear started to develop from everyday clothes for functional convenience in the beginning and then SIF emerged later as a major fashion trend with the popularity of sportive look. This trend became stronger with the global spread of American popular culture. SIF eventually became high fashion with collaboration between sportswear industry and designers. This study confirmed that SIF reflects the characteristics of many sports games in silhouettes, colors, and details. It is predicted that sports will continue to be an important source of inspiration for fashion designers.