• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.25 no.4 s.34
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• pp.145-154
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• 1999

A novel retinol derivative, polyethoxylated retinamide(Medimin A) was synthesized, as an anti-aging agent. Collagen synthesis, skin permeation, stability, and toxicity of Medimin A were evaluated and compared with those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. In vitro collagen synthesis was evaluated by quantitative assay of $[^3H]-proline$ incorporation into collagenase sensitive protein in fibroblast cultures. For in vitro skin permeation experiments, Franz diffusion cells(effective diffusion area: 1,766 $cm^2$) and the excised skin of female hairless mouse aged 8 weeks were used, The stabilities of retinoids were evaluated at two different temperature($25^{\circ}C\;and\;40^{\circ}C$) and under UV in solubilized state and in O/W emulsion. To estimate the safety, acute oral toxicity, acute dermal toxicity, primary skin irritation, acute eye irritation and human patch test were performed. The effect of Medimin A on collagen synthesis was similar to that of retinol. The skin permeability of Medimin A was higher than those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. The Medimin A was more stable than retinol and retinyl palmitate. Medimin A was nontoxic in various toxicological tests. These results suggest that Medimin A would be a good anti-aging agent for enhancing bioavailability and stability.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.87-92
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• 1998

Kojic acid (KA) is an antimelanogenic agent which has been widely used in cosmetics to whiten the skin color. However, it has the drawbacks of the skin irritancy and the instability against the pH, temperature, and light. In order to overcome these problems, various topical gels and multiple emulsion creams which can control the release of active ingredient, KA, were formulated employing cream bases of mineral oil with caprylic capric triglyceride and hydrophilic polymers such as chitosan, carbopol. and pluronics. Using Franz diffusion cells mounted with a synthetic cellulose membrane (MWCO 12,000), drug release characteristics of the formulations were evaluated by the HPLC assay of KA concentration in the receptor compartment of pH 7.4 phosphate buffered saline solution. Drug release from chitosan-based gels (ChitoGel) obeyed to the first order kinetics with a rapid release especially in the initial period. However, pluronic-based gels (PluGel) and carbopol-based gels (CarboGel) revealed controlled release of drug to some extent, followed by the square root-time kinetics. Moreover, the release of KA was further controlled with the W/O/W multiple emulsion creams (MultiCream), showing the apparent zero order release kinetics by virtue of dynamic ratecontrolling membrane of the oil layer. The flux $(J,\;{\mu}g/cm^2/hr)$ of ChitoGel. CarboGel. PluGel. and MultiCream in the initial period of 6hr were 73.30, 28.67. 24.04 and 7.72, respectively. On the other hand, the skin irritancy score of ChitoGel and MultiCream were observed as 2.5 and 2.3 respectively, in the rabbit skin irritation test. Although there were insignificant differences at p<0.05 between those formulations, it was possible to conclude that the W/O/W multiple emulsion creams containing KA might be a good candidate for an antimelanogenic drug delivery system due to the controlled release of acidic drug molecules.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.321-329
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• 2006

Albuterol, a selective ${\beta}_2$-adrenergic receptor stimulant, has been introduced as a potent bronchodilator for patients with bronchial asthma, chronic obstructive bronchial disease, chronic bronchitis and pulmonary emphysema. The percutaneous permeation of albuterol sulfate was investigated in hairless mouse skin in vitro with and without pretreatment with enhancers. The enhancing effects of ethanol and various penetration enhancers such as terpenes, non-ionic surfactants, pyrrolidones, and fatty acids on the permeation of albuterol sulfate were evaluated using Franz diffusion cells. Among terpenes studied, 1,8-cineole was the most effective enhancer, which increased the permeability of albuterol sulfate approximately 33-fold compared with the control without enhancer pretrement, followed by d-limonene with enhancement ratio of 21.79. 2-Pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid increased the permeability of albuterol sulfate approximately 5.5-fold compared with the control. Other pyrrolidones tested showed only slight permeability enhancing effect with enhancement ratio less than 2.8. Nonionic surfactants showed moderate enhancing effects. Lauric acid increased the permeability of albuterol sulfate approximately 30-fold with decreasing the lag time from 2.85 to 0.64 hr. Oleic acid and linoleic acid showed enhancement ratio of 24.55 and 22.91, respectively. These findings would allow a more rational approach for designing formulations for the transdermal delivery of albuterol sulfate and similar drugs.

• The Korean Journal of Physiology and Pharmacology
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.59-64
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• 2015

Retinyl palmitate (RP)-loaded pectinate micro- and nano-particles (PMP and PNP) were designed for stabilization of RP that is widely used as an anti-wrinkle agent in anti-aging cosmeceuticals. PMP/PNP were prepared with an ionotropic gelation method, and anti-oxidative activity of the particles was measured with a DPPH assay. The stability of RP in the particles along with pectin gel and ethanolic solution was then evaluated. In vitro release and skin permeation studies were performed using Franz diffusion cells. Distribution of RP in each skin tissue (stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis) was also determined. PMP and PNP could be prepared with mean particle size diameters of $593{\sim}843{\mu}m$ (PMP) and 530 nm (i.e., $0.53{\mu}m$, PNP). Anti-oxidative activity of PNP was greater than PMP due largely to larger surface area available for PNP. The stability of RP in PMP and PNP was similar but much greater than RP in pectin bulk gels and ethanolic solution. PMP and PNP showed the abilities to constantly release RP and it could be permeated across the model artificial membrane and rat whole skin. RP was serially deposited throughout the skin layers. This study implies RP loaded PMP and PNP are expected to be advantageous for improved anti-wrinkle effects.

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.21 no.12
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• pp.1280-1286
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• 2011

A quantitative, real-time PCR method was developed to enumerate Lactobacillus plantarum IWBT B 188 during the malolactic fermentation (MLF) in Grauburgunder wine. The qRT-PCR was strain-specific, as it was based on primers targeting a plasmid DNA sequence, or it was L. plantarum-specific, as it targeted a chromosomally located plantaricin gene sequence. Two 50 l wine fermentations were prepared. One was inoculated with 15 g/hl Saccharomyces cerevisiae, followed by L. plantarum IWBT B 188 at $3.6{\times}10^6$ CFU/ml, whereas the other was not inoculated (control). Viable cell counts were performed for up to 25 days on MRS agar, and the same cells were enumerated by qRT-PCR with both the plasmid or chromosomally encoded gene primers. The L. plantarum strain survived under the harsh conditions in the wine fermentation at levels above $10^5$/ml for approx. 10 days, after which cell numbers decreased to levels of $10^3$ CFU/ml at day 25, and to below the detection limit after day 25. In the control, no lactic acid bacteria could be detected throughout the fermentation, with the exception of two sampling points where ca. $1{\times}10^2$ CFU/ml was detected. The minimum detection level for quantitative PCR in this study was $1{\times}10^2$ to $1{\times}10^3$ CFU/ml. The qRT-PCR results determined generally overestimated the plate count results by about 1 log unit, probably as a result of the presence of DNA from dead cells. Overall, qRT-PCR appeared to be well suited for specifically enumerating Lactobacillus plantarum starter cultures in the MLF in wine.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.116-126
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• 2013

Glycol ethers are a group of solvents based on alkyl ethers of ethylene glycol commonly used in paints. These solvents typically have a higher boiling point, together with the favorable solvent properties of lower-molecular weight ethers and alcohols. The word "Glycol ethers" was registered as a United States trademark by Union Carbide Corp. Typically, glycol ethers are found in pharmaceuticals, sunscreens, cosmetics, inks, dyes and water based paints. On the other hand, glycol ethers are used in degreasers, cleaners, aerosol paints and adhesives. Most glycol ethers are relatively water soluble, biodegradable and only a few are considered toxic. Therefore, they are unlikely to pose an adverse risk to the environment. Recent study suggests that occupational exposure to glycol ethers is related to low motile sperm count in men, but the finding has been disputed by others. In this study, skin permeation of 3 types glycol ethers were studied in vitro using matrix such as solvent and detergent. The absorption of glycol ethers[methyl glycol ethers(MC), ethyl glycol ethers(EC) and butyl glycol ethers(BC)] has been measured in vitro through rat skin. Epidermal membranes were set up in Franz diffusion cells and their permeability to PBS measured to establish the integrity of the skin before the glycol ethers were applied to the epidermal surface. Absorption rates for each glycol ethers were determined and permeability assessment made to quantify any irreversible alterations in barrier function due to contact with the esters. Types of glycol ethers in vitro experimental results on MC> EC> BC quickly appeared in the following order: skin permeation was beneficial to the skin permeation small molecular weight, the difference in chemical structure, such as hydrophilic, because with the partition coefficient and solubility mechanisms and passive diffusion to increase the speed at which transmission is considered.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.1 s.49
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• pp.43-49
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• 2005

Recently, according as people who have sensitive skin increase, we've been giving more importance to the safety of cosmetics. Especially, preservative is known to be one of the main stimuli which cause side-effects of cosmetics. However, there have been few reports describing cell cytotoxicity, skin penetration, oil-aqueous phase partition, anti-microbial activity of preservatives and their correlation with skin irritation. The study is aimed to develop low irritable preservative system with phenoxyethanol, one of the most commonly used preservatives in cosmetics, considering various factors mentioned above. According to our results of cell cytotoxicity against human normal fibroblasts by means of MTT assay, phenoxyethanol showed the lowest cytotoxicity when compared to other preservatives tested (cytotoxicity: pro-pylparaben > butylparaben > ethylparaben > methylparaben > triclosan > phenoxyethanol), but human patch test for assessing shin primary irritation revealed that phenoxyethanol has higher skin irritation than methylparaben and triclosan. We performed in vitro skin penetration test using horizontal Franz diffusion cells with skin membrane prepared from hairless mouse (5 ${\~}$ 8 weeks, male) to evaluate the rate of skin penetration of preservatives. From the results, we found that the higher irritable property of phenoxyethanol in human skin correlates with its predominant permeability (skin penetration: phenoxyethanol > methylparaben > ethylparaben > propylparaben > butylfaraben > triclosan). Therefore, we made an effort to reduce skin permeability of phenoxyethanol and found that not only the rate of skin penetration of phenoxyethanol but also its skin irritation is dramatically reduced in formulas containing oils with low polarity. In the experiments to investigate the effect of oil polarity on the oil-aqueous phase partition of phenoxyethanol, more than $70\%$ of phenoxyethanol was partitioned in aqueous phase in formulas containing oils with low polarity, while about $70 {\~} 90\%$ of phenoxyethanol was partitioned in oil phase in formulas containing oils with high polarity. Also, in aqueous phase phenoxyethanol showed greater anti-microbial activity. Conclusively, it appears that we can develop less toxic preservative system with reduced use dosage of phenox-yethanol and its skin penetration by changing oil composition in formulas.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.175-184
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• 2019

The epidermal growth factor (EGF) has a intrinsic function of inducing growth and proliferation of cells through interacting with cell membrane receptors in human epidermis and dermis layer. These functions of EGF are used as a main ingredient for wound healing medicines and anti-aging cosmetics. As a cosmetic ingredient, the EGF has a problem in exhibiting its natural efficacy due to the lack of the ability to penetrate through the stratum corneum, which is known as the skin barrier. In this study, a recombinant human epidermal growth factor ($MTD_{151}-EGF$) fused with the macromolecule transduction domain $(MTD)_{151}$ with the skin penetration ability was developed to improve the skin penetration efficiency of the EGF. Expression of $MTD_{151}-EGF$ was performed in E. coli transformed with a vector encoding the $MTD_{151}-EGF$ gene and then purified. The purified $MTD_{151}-EGF$ was evaluated using cell proliferation assay, cytotoxicity test and skin penetration test by franz diffusion cell assay and artificial skin. Cell proliferation activity of $MTD_{151}-EGF$ purified to high purity of 99% or above was equivalent to the EGF or better, and cytotoxicity was not observed. In addition, the $MTD_{151}-EGF$ showed an excellent penetration efficiency compared to the EGF in the skin penetration test with EGF and $MTD_{151}-EGF$ labeled by FITC in an artificial skin penetration model. Based on the quantitative analysis of the penetrating substance using franz diffusion cell assay, the amount of penetration was about 16 times more than that of EGF. These results can be regarded as an effective alternative to improve the existing physical transdermal penetration method related to the use of various active ingredients for cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.2
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• pp.147-157
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• 2023

Centella asiatica extract is widely used as a raw material for cosmetics due to its various effects, but it is difficult to expect penetration into the skin due to its high molecular weight and low solubility. In order to solve these problems, lipid-based liposomes of various types were developed to increase skin absorption. Therefore, in this study, we tried to increase the skin absorption rate by preparing transfersomes using surfactants as edge activators in existing liposomes. Liposome and transfersomes containing Span 80 and Tween 20, 60, 80, and 85, respectively, were prepared using a high-pressure homogenizer, and we evaluated the particle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential, and skin absorption rate. As a result, there was almost no change in the physical properties of particle size, polydispersity index and zeta potential from 25 ℃ to 60 d, and the particle size of transfersomes containing Tween 20, 60, and 80 increased after 60 d at 45 ℃. Madecassoside, main substances of the Centella asiatica extract was used as an standard and madecassoside was measured and calculated when measuring the skin absorption rate using Franz diffusion cells. As a result, formulations containing Tween 20 were the most, whereas formulations containing Span 80 were the least. According to the skin absorption coefficient (Kp) value, all formulations showed 'very fast', and the absorption rate was similar or greater than that of liposomes, except for formulations containing Span 80. Through this, it was confirmed that the larger the HLB value of the nonionic surfactant, the smaller the particle size of the transfersome, and the increased skin absorption rate due to the increased flexibility of the vesicle membrane. Through this study, transfersome using surfactant as an edge activator can be expected to solve local skin problems not only as a cosmetic raw material or product, but also by increasing skin absorption.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.766-778
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• 2019

In this study, Poria cocos bark were extracted by supercritical process, and anti-inflammatory, whitening, and antioxidant effects were measured in comparison with ethanol extract. Also, An effective percutaneous permeation method using a selected formulation of the extract and a drug delivery peptide was proposed. Pachymic acid, known as the anti-cancer and anti-inflammatory compound of the ventricle, is an indicator component and the HPLC analysis shows that the supercritical extract of the pericardium is more than twice that of the Poria cocos bark extract. In order to confirm antioxidative effect of Bombyx mori, DPPH scavenging ability and ABTS scavenging ability test showed that the ethanol extract of Poria cocos Back had lower concentration than the supercritical extract of Poria cocos back. However, RAW 264.7 Measurements of Nitric oxide (NO) production in cells showed lower NO production at the same concentration than the Poria cocos back ethanol extract. In addition, after 72 hours of processing of $20{\mu}g/mL$ of the Poria cocos back extract in B16 melanoma cells, both the intracellular and extracellular melanin extract were effective and the supercritical extract was lower melanin content. No toxicity was observed at the concentration of $800{\mu}g/mL$ in RAW 264.7 cells used in NO production experiments. However, in B16 melanoma cells, even at $50{\mu}g/mL$, both Poria cocos back ethanol extract and supercritical extract showed a survival rate of less than 60%. The liposome formulation and drug delivery peptides were shown to be useful for percutaneous permeation of Supercritical Extract of Poria cocos back using a liposome formulation and a drug delivery peptide. it is expected that there will be great potential for development as a variety of cosmetic materials for Poria cocos back.