• 복식
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• 제61권2호
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• pp.1-19
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• 2011

As modern society advances, women's self-consciousness and attitudes toward beautiful appearances have changed. Amid this trend, the young and slim body of adolescent girls expressed in contemporary fashion incites fantasy on continuing youth among women. In modern society, women's youth is frequently regarded as a subject of consumption and a sex product in the mass media. In this regard, the study is focused on examining desire and psychology of worshipping women's youth and beauty in connection with flapper fashion in the 1920s. In the process, the study took a look at the social and cultural background of flapper fashion and conducted an analysis on formative characteristics and aesthetic sense of flapper fashion as follows: First, the formative characteristics include a short skirt that expresses straight lined shape and the beauty of exposure, lighter clothing, thick make-up, short hair style and black or vivid colors, and they lead to exceptional and innovative aesthetic sense in flapper fashion. Flapper fashion style is focused on completely denying outdated fashion worn by women in the age right before. Second, pursuit of mature, graceful and classical beauty that had continued in previous ages has gone through complete changes in the flapper era in the name of pursuit of youth, and the flapper fashion expresses sensual image through the exposure of slim arms and legs of a young girl. In the formative characteristics, aesthetic sense of youth and sensuality inherent in the flapper fashion was generated. Third, women's free-spirited lifestyle at that time and 'aesthetic sense of freedom and amusement that reflected the speed of machine civilization could be found in the flapper fashion. Material and decoration of the flapper fashion pertained to clothing that enabled a free expression through rapid movements. Aesthetic sense of the flapper fashion generated in the process could be defined as women's internal determination to express individual and free-spirited ideas through the use of fashion when tradition and order of the old age were torn down. And this aesthetic sense is continuously affecting modern fashion design.

• 복식
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• 제53권3호
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• pp.107-119
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to explore ways toward the hat design development by looking into the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the works of Philip Treacy, the designer who raised hats to one of the important fashion accessories. This study concretely investigates the formative characteristics of Treacy's hats in terms of shapes, materials, colours and decorations. According to this study, the shape of his hats shows the natural and specific objects in three dimensions, not in basic shape of hats. He uses combination of a variety of materials, adding unique materials to existing ones, so that they not only create a specific atmosphere but also extend the limitation which used to be thought as materials for hats. In the field of colour, he mainly used black and white until 1999, but since 2000 he has been using vivid and splendid colors. And he uses feathers or nets for decorations of the hats. As the result of the comprehensive analysis of Treacy's works, this study characterizes his works by surrealistic, three-dimensional, rhythmic and future-oriented. Therefore, Philip Treacy's hat design can be defined three dimensional considering the formative beauty, and can be characterized by use of unique materials, vivid & bold colours, moderate decorations, f variety of lines, and asymmetrical structures. These characteristics show surrealistic, three-dimensional and futuristic message which rhythm can be felt. He presents unlimited capability in hat designs as a representative of human being's basic will for creating new ones beyond this real world. It is considered that this study can help broaden the limitation of the hat design which used to repeat simple forms in the Past and help explore ways for developmental direction of hat design in the future.

• 복식
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• 제63권6호
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• pp.14-28
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• 2013

This study aims to identify the elements of black culture and use it to analyze the formative characteristics of casual fashion items as well as the symbolic meanings presented in the graphic designs of the items. First of all, in order to distinguish the identity of black culture, this study made a division into racial, social, and artistic aspects based on cultural specificities of Stuart Hall, a culture theorist. This was for a theoretical review and based on this review, a theoretical framework was developed to analyze the characteristics of American casual fashion design of black people. The case study selected 1719 fashion images of 137 male brands and 33 female brands from websites of companies manufacturing casual wear of black people in America. The following is a summary of the study results. The conceptual characteristics based on specificities of black culture can be categorized into ten attributes: playfulness in order to digest human grief and emotion positively, satire of the mainstream society, spontaneity through emotional expression from the heart, abstractness of various emotions elating suffering, humor trying to express negative aspects as the meaning of light and innocent laughter, dependence with passive attitudes toward discrimination and master-slave relationships in history, resistance against discrimination and disadvantages, African orientation and primitiveness pursuing natural conditions, aggressiveness against violence and unfair treatment, and confidence and defiance against social deprivation and corruption. Based on the results of an analysis through formative classification system founded on racial, social, and artistic aspects of black people, specificities of black culture are of formative characteristics of their casual fashion design. These elements are presented on graphic t-shirts through strong colors, loose silhouette, and details with many pockets. These characteristics were reflected in symbolic meanings presented in the graphic.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2020

This study focused on front-blouse-type skirts from the 15th and 16th centuries and aimed to investigate their formative characteristics and wearing patterns. Previous studies, literature, records, paintings, and excavated clothing items were used as research materials. The researcher categorized front-blouse-type skirts into three types based on the construction method. The first has the front-center portion of the skirt folded up, the second has the center portion cut short, and the third has horizontal dart pleats on either side. An examination of 48 items from 18 excavation sites of front-blouse-type skirts showed that only the front-center portion folded up type appeared in the 15th century, and it was only in the 16th century that the other forms of skirts were worn. Finally, based on the analysis, the pattern of wearing front-blouse-type skirts and their changing factors was deduced. Front-blouse-type skirts were identified as ceremonial skirts that were popular in the 15th and 16th centuries among the types of long skirts available. The popularity and usage of this type of skirt began to spread gradually in the 15th century. In the 16th century, various types of front-blouse-type skirts were brought into vogue by the royal family and the external register. It can be inferred that the popularity of front-blouse-type skirts gradually declined in the 17th century as other types of long skirts, folding skirts, and Sran type skirts emerged.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.679-686
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• 2006

The purposes of this study are to look into the formative characteristics of the bolero and to evaluate the visual effects and images according to changes in the line and length of the connecting lines of the neck, center front, and hem lines from analyzing the bolero style shown in 2005 S/S domestic fashion. Theoretical examination of the bolero was made philologically with reference books, theses and some articles. And the bolero style shown in 2005 S/S domestic fashion was analyzed with pictures from a fashion magazine "Ceci" and a fashion website 'Interfashion Planning" from Feb. to Aug. of 2005. As a result, the basic lines of the bolero are classified into three different categories according to the connecting lines of the neck, center front line, and hem line. We altered the length of the bolero in three categories with the changes in the waistline-5 cm, 8 cm, and 11 cm. For the visual evaluation, 9 stimuli were placed in mannequins, and were estimated by the experts in the fashion design. For the visual evaluation according to changes in the line and length of the bolero, we used 12 pairs of items to find the visual effects, and 13 pairs of adjectives to measure the visual images. The stimuli and adjectives were randomly given to the evaluators and were evaluated by the 7-Point Likert Type Scale. Data we got from this experiment was analyzed statistically by using the SPSS 12.0 and practiced the Factor Analysis and Correlation Analysis. In the current women's garments, the bolero is a new fashion item which combines with jackets or cardigans. Usually the bolero jacket is made out of a cotton, denim, leather or fur, and the bolero cardigan usually used knitted materials. The design could be very varied depending on the roundness of the center front line, and hem line. According to the result of factor analysis of the visual effects of the Bolero, four factors were identified the whole silhouette, neck line, breasts and shoulders. According to the result of factor analysis of the visual image of the Bolero, three factors were identified maturity, tenderness, neatness.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.858-868
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• 2016

This study aims to examine the formative characteristics of seniors' fashion in overseas social media, and look into the psychological characteristics of seniors by analyzing the emotions and the characteristics of psychological mechanism in seniors' fashion. The study methods include statistical analysis and content analysis for literary study and data analysis. For data analysis, statistical and content analyses were conducted to analyze 992 data collected from Advanced style, Facebook, and Instagram for 4 years from 2013 to 2016. In formative features shown at overseas social media, circle and square silhouette, achromatic color and warm color, showy tone color, soft material, horizontal details, plain and natural patterns, cap and sunglasses production, and sophisticated elegance styles appeared high. The emotional characteristics in senior's fashion had a silhouette that expressed stability, color that expressed passion, love, happiness, joy, hope and comfort. Materials were expressed by the emotions of dependence and attachment, details were expressed by stable, maternal, calm, comfortable and harmonious emotions. Patterns were expressed by the images of beauty, love, fruit and psychological stability. Accessories were expressed by young and characterful images. Style expressed the emotions of trust, pride, longing, intoxication and ecstasy. The characteristics of psychological mechanism used such shapes and patterns as flower, heart and lips to symbolize the emotions of love, humor, and fun. Young and trendy fashion were expressed in compensation for aging. Kitsch and kidult style was expressed by regression. Elegance fashion was expressed by the sublimation of pride, trust and intoxication.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.450-467
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• 2014

Modern society attaches great important to state of the technology, but, unconscious desire and subconscious are also discussed in an important value. In the social background of such madness is acting as an artistic inspirational to the many people. At such a time, fashion photographs also being used medium which speak for people's desire. Editorial fashion photographs with unusual stories or including experimental visual elements unlike fashion advertising have increasing. The subject of this study is the formative characteristics in recognition of madness from ancient times until now and find out new meaning of the unusual and informal form of editorial fashion photographs showed in Vogue Italia since 2000. The analysis data of this study, we used 36 photographs of editorial fashion photographs taken by Steven Meisel, Tim Walker and Miles Aldriege. The final process of analysis made in with agreement of 10 major people. We used photograph's basic visual elements as analysis to avoid arbitrary interpretations. The content of this study is drawing in editorial fashion photographs from the viewpoint of Michael Foucault's Madness theory, Deleuze and Felix Guattari's Madness as the aspects of desire. The madness images in the editorial fashion photographs were showed as Decadence, Blindness, Violence and Grotesque based on the analysis results from above. The formative characteristics of editorial fashion photographs enabled the awareness on the value and importance of madness in modern society. These editorial fashion photographs can be the source of our wider perspectives for changing recognition of madness.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.117-133
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• 2022

In order to reflect traditional elements in modern design, designers should be able to creatively apply elements of traditional Chinese clothing. To understand this, a deep understanding of and insights into the traditional clothing culture are required. In this study, the characteristics of traditional Chinese women's clothing from the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties of China to the Qing Dynasty were analyzed by dividing them into silhouette, color, pattern, materials, and detail. The characteristics of the silhouette were classified into A, H, X, and O types, of which types A and H were the most common. As for the color characteristics, there are relatively many five cardinal colors, and for the contrast of colors complementary colors were mainly used. As the for pattern characteristics, real patterns, animal patterns, character patterns, geometric patterns, and mixed patterns were used. Four types of materials were mainly used: silk, hemp, cotton, and wool. The detail characteristics were also anlyzed by classifying them into collar, sleeve, neckband, and gusset. Based on the results of this analysis, a satisfaction survey was conducted on the design of modern Chinese women's clothing. The result of satisfaction with design elements showed that the images of vest and suit were most preferred, H and X silhouettes, and yellow and white were the most preferred. Geometric and plant patterns were preferred, as were silk and acetate materials. Based on the result of chi-square analysis of design element preferences according to the characteristics of the subject, there was no difference according to occupation, residential area, or income, and there were differences in silhouette, color, materials, and detail according to age.

• 감성과학
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.511-520
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• 2008

본 연구에서는 로봇디자인에 대한 선호 반응의 결과를 바탕으로 로봇 얼굴을 구성하는 조형요소의 조합 관계에 대한 특성을 분석하는 것이 기본적인 목적이다. 아울러 분석 결과로부터 선호도를 향상시키기 위한 디자인가이드의 제시 가능성을 고찰하고자 하였다. 이를 위하여 27가지의 로봇 얼굴 사진을 실험자극으로 선정하고, 선호 반응 및 연상 반응에 관한 실험을 진행하였다. 실험 로봇 얼굴의 형태 보다는 눈의 형태가 선호 반응에 많은 영향을 미치는 등 다양한 특성이 나타났다. 이러한 결과를 바탕으로 로봇 얼굴에 대한 선호반응에 긍정적 영향을 미칠 수 있는 각 조형요소의 특성 도출 및 기본적 디자인가이드라인을 제시할 수 있었다. 구체적으로 먼저, 눈의 형태는 세로의 길이가 가로 길이 보다는 긴(167%) 타원형을 적용하는 것이 필요하다. 그리고 눈 사이의 거리는 얼굴 폭의 35% 정도를 유지해야 한다. 또한 눈의 위치는 얼굴의 중심축으로부터 상향에 배치하여 시각적으로 안정감을 주는 것이 중요하다. 머리 전체의 형태는 원형을 이용한 구 타입이 바람직하다. 머리의 형태와 눈과의 조화는 로봇으로서 기본적으로 갖추어야 할 귀엽고 깜찍한 이미지를 구현하는 것이 필요하다.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.279-288
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• 2004

기업 내 디자인 작업은 과거의 전문직으로서의 폐쇄된 직능과 소극적 역할에서 현재의 성공적 제품 생산을 위한 기획, 마케팅, 기술은 물론 기업 브랜드 이미지 차별화를 위한 전략 구축 등의 적극적인 역할로 확대되었다. 그래서 디자이너가 타부서와의 의사교통은 물론 중요한 결정이나 정보 공유, 객관적 판단 등에 참여하거나 주도해야 하는 경우가 점차 늘어나고 있다. 이와 같이 디자인 작업은 협동 업무를 전제조건으로 하지만 디자인 프로세스의 조형작업(styling)은 디자이너의 직관이나 경험 등 주관성을 기초로 전개되는 특성을 가져 제품개발에 관계되는 구성원 사이에서 심지어는 한 디자인팀 안에서도 여러 형태의 장애로 표출된다. 이러한 점을 극복하고 보다 더 효율적인 디자인 결정 과정을 유도하고 제품의 형태를 개발, 평가 및 관리를 체계화할 수 있는 수단이 필요하게 되었다. 본 연구에서는 이의 기초가 될 수 있는 제품 형태가 표현하는 형상(image) 뒤에 숨은 조형적 원인이나 질서(객관적 체계 또는 공유할 수 있는 논리)를 실험을 통해 발견할 수 있다는 가설을 세우고 증명하였다. 이 실험의 결과로서, 시각적 개성의 표현인 조형에 관계하는 요인과 이들의 성향이나 상호역할의 체계를 규명하였다. 이 요인을 조형변수로, 또 이 체계를 정합적 제품 형태 전개 방법이라 명명하고, 이 과정에서 도출된 논리를 기초로 개발과정에서 목표한 형상에 정합적으로 접근하는 과정을 설명하였다. 이는 디자이너의 직관적 창의성과 추론적 논리성의 균형을 설정하는 방법으로서, 이 논리와 체계가 디자이너간에 공유할 수 있는 조형언어의 틀이 되고 타부서와의 의사교통에도 도움이 되는 하나의 지원 수단으로 제안된다. 이를 통해 디자이너는 목표한 이미지에 정합적으로 접근하여, 형태 전개 범위를 집중시키고 개발기간을 단축하기 위한 방법으로 사용하여 조형작업에 수반되는 불필요한 장애나 오류를 최소화할 수 있을 것으로 기대한다.