• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.96-108
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• 2009

This study is made on the royal lady's dress In late Joseon dynasty according to the King Heon-jong and Lady Kyung-bin's Wedding Diary in the year of Jung-mi(1847) and summarised as follows: Girls' full dress was a set of a red skirt, a violet undo. jacket, and a light yellow jacket and a green Gyeon-ma-gi(a kind of top jacket) with he. hair Saeng-meo-ri hanging Do-tu-rak-daeng-gi(a kind of hair ribbon). At the big ceremony, girls wore a green Dang-ui instead of Gyeon-ma-gi. A girl picked up as a royal concubine wore a green Won-sam, which was decorated with gilt letters meaning longevity, patched emblems of gilt letter meaning longevity on the breast and on the back, belted with Bong-dae(a red sash with gilt phoenexes), like a princess's full dress. At the Kyung-bin's installation of Crown Princess and her first greeting ceremony with royal elders, she wore a green Won-sam as a formal dress, which had an embroidered emblem of phoenix, the belt with crystal ornaments, Pae-ok(佩玉), Kyu(圭) of blue jade, Shou(綬) with an phoenix. At a Dong-wrae-yun(drinking ceremony after bride and bridegroom's bowing to each other), she wore the embroidered red Jang-sam as a formal dress. Kyung-bin wore a purple Won-sam with Bong-dae as a full dress for a royal feast. According to the occasions, the same dress was differentiated with ornaments and rotors. Ji-keum-bal was an attire for ordinary ceremony. The attire was equipped with a woven gold green Dang-ui with an emblem of phoenix, a blue gilt underskirt and a red gilt overskirt. No-ui was worn as outdoor clothes. Jang-sam was worn by various classes, so it was differentiated with materials and names according to her class.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.6
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• pp.115-126
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• 2002

This study is regarding on the shroud of Jeonjoo Lee (Inpyoung clan's lady) excavated from the Andong Gwon's grave. who had passed away at 1722. Through this research, we understood the way of fetal ceremony by 18 centuries' royal family, and the costume style in those days. The style and size of shrouds were likely similar with ordinary dress. For the upper dress, Lady Andong Gwon wore a piece of undershirt (sosam), 3 layed jacket(Joggoli), an upper jacket (dangui) with patched badge as well as a gold brocade formal dress(wonsam). And for the lower dress, 2 layed underpants(dansokot) and 2 layed long skirts were worn. Especially, prototype of the waist band for shroud(gowdo) and a kind of headgear(gokdoli) was found in this study along with the headdress for woman's shroud(yomo) and the shoes for woman's shroud(chahwea). In this study, understanding the costume of upper class at 18 centuries during Chosun Dynasty.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.105-110
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• 2005

This paper documents a dress design process to demonstrate the theory that form follows intent. It includes a statement of the design context as a venue where the conceptual intent originated. The dragon icon became the subject, form, and content of the design project. The author's designerly endeavor is discussed with focus on reconfiguration of formal characteristics shown in the visual reference of the eastern dragon symbol into a dress design with the consideration of utilitarian, expressive, and symbolic issues. Throughout the process, the author was an active agent who created formal characteristics, manifested a thought into an object, and imbued a meaning to the dress, demonstrating the notion that form follows intent.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.10
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• pp.79-90
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to make new suggestions for the production of high value-added, fashion goods by reviewing and synthesizing the design of dress shirts. (Ed-I've combined paragraphs here) For this study, 1491 photographs on the dress shirts were collected for analysis from men's collection$(2001\sim2006)$. Concerning the actual characteristics of men's fashion design, the following conclusions were obtained from the analysis of the dress shirts of men's collection. (Ed-I've combined paragraphs here) First, feminine ornaments such as frill, pin tuck, and embroidery can be seen in men's dress shirts and men's sexuality has changed into a softer men's image. Second, asymmetry balance using detachability are expressed in the collars, sleeves, and plackets of men's dress shirts. Third, in a very novel suggestion, a combination of two items was designed in a dress shirt and variant shirt forms were created. Fourth, formal style is mainly shown in men's shirts and the traditional classic is increasingly becoming emphasized recently

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.14-27
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to identify the ritual dress used by the 12 religious bodies of Dankun followers to help understand the teachings of these currently operating religious groups in Korea. The findings from the survey and related literatures are used to analyze the characteristics of these ritual dresses in terms of their items, construction, form, and color. The results of the study are as follows: first, most of the religious groups of Dankun followers have established the code for ritual dresses and they are named as 'chaebok'(제복, sacrificial robes), 'yebok'(예복, ceremonial dress), 'chungbok'(정복, formal attire), 'pubbok'(법복, Buddhist formal dress), or 'tobok'(도복, Taoist garments). The official headgear is usually named as 'chaemo'(제모), 'soogun'(수건), 'moja'(모자), or 'yoogun'(유건, 儒巾). Though, there are some groups which do not use any specific names for headgear. Second, the ritual dresses of most groups are composed of the 'hanbok'(한복,韓服) or usual Western-style dress, a traditional outer wear, 'po'(포,袍), and a headgear, as a basic attire. Third, the traditional 'hanbok' is worn as a base garment and an outer wear is worn above. The different types of outer wear are used: mostly 'chaksu jueui jikyoun po'(착수주의직령포, 窄袖周衣直領袍) for men and 'kwangsu jikyoung po'(광수직령포, 廣袖直領袍) and other various styles for women. The headgear from the ancient times are worn by both men and women. Fourth, the most frequently-used color for ritual dress is white for both men and women's dress. The colors from the Yin and Yang ideology are also used in the ritual dresses. Finally, the kinds of materials are not considered as an important element for the ritual dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.31-49
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• 1998

This study is the primary basic study about the spatial feature of modeling of Fashion Design. Then, this researcher lays significance in establishing the basic system about the character of dress and its ornaments as modeling in spatial-formal, dimension, examining the feature of modeling closely through perception principle and offering the basic principle to plan and organize the modeling space for dress and its ornaments on the basis of it. To generalize the findings is as follows : First, the spatial system of modeling for dress and its ornaments is made with 3 elements such as space, human beings and dress and its ornaments. Second, the form of dress and its ornaments and the spatial organization start from the structural basis which is human body, and the sensible system of body is made through inter-action, but the aesthetic expression is complet-ed by the moment of body. Third, the characteristic principle of model-ing for dress and its ornaments which was suggested in Chapter IV is based on the visuo-per-ceptional modeling experience, and these thinking contents are inputted in cognition course as the invisible in formation in the new space plan and organization and activate the apperception course and aim at the action about aesthetic judgement.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.501-517
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• 2011

This study investigates the concept of the body in Korean traditional costume by comparing the traditional costumes of the west and those of Korea while focusing on the relationship between the body and dress. In order to make a comparison of the traditional perspectives on the body in western and Korean costumes, this study examines the literature of history, art, medicine, philosophy as well as dress from the mid-fourteenth century to the nineteenth century pertaining to the west and those of the Joseon Dynasty Korea. Western dress assumes apparent formal structures and pursues overall harmony via the completeness of its entities, while traditional Korean dress subordinates the parts to the whole, emphasizing the organic total. Whereas the proportion of bodily structure is stressed in western traditional costume, in Korean costume the body is perceived as a whole. By revealing the body through the three dimensionalities of dress, the focus on the erogenous body parts is shifting in conventional western dress according to changes in aesthetic consciousness, which reflects the western ideas of objectiveness and self-centeredness. In traditional Korean dress, in the space between the body and dress, the emphasis is on planarization of the dress, which assumes the oriental relationship-centeredness concept.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.67-77
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• 2003

This study investigated the difference of the purchasing realities and the degree of satisfaction of maternity dress according to occupation and age. The purpose of this study was to collect data needed to the maternity dress maker for the better quality of their product and the more comfortable maternity dress wearing of pregnant women. The results of study were as follows. The attitude of purchasing and the degree of satisfaction of maternity dress according to age showed significant differences as follows. First, the dress styles were the significant difference in the kind of formal trousers and casual trousers, one-piece dress, jumper skirt+shirt, vest+trousers. Second, the purchase place was the significant difference in the shop of clothes made, market, maternity dress shop, wearing together. Third, at the purchase time of dress, the satisfactory degree of an appraised standard was the significant difference in the period of wearing, the easiness of exchange and repayment, the wearing numeral degree of other people, price, discount sale, degree of brand recognition, encouragement of other people.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.23
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• pp.197-209
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to present a way to analyze and review the subjective view of the aesthetic for dress based on the framework of the aesthetic categories suggested by aesthetics. In order to define objectivism and subjectivism of the aesthetic of dress, theoretical studies on the aesthetic categories of dress were precded. And empirical studies on the aethetic categories of dress for selected period, the Renaissance (16th century) and the Baroque(17 th century). The results were follows : The objectivism of the aesthetic is the point of that an object causes human to feel and judge aesthetically, that is that of dress means judge aesthetically, that is that of dress means formal characteristic of dress and pervasive ideology expressed in dress. the subjectivism of the aesthetic is the point that the aesthetic is ruted in human, that is that of dress has been studied in relation to the image, the aesthetic consciousness m, or the aesthetic categories of dress. Especially, the aesthetic category is one of the universal and valid methods for the analysis of subjectivism of the aesthetic for dress. This study includes beauty, grace, elegance , the sublime, the tragic , the comic, aptness, ugliness as aesthetic categories of dress . Beauty is perfection and rule. Grace pleases human by sense. Elegance comes from the harmony of sense and spirit. the sublime comes into existence that human feels pleasure as well as displeasure simultaneously when human is overehelmed by objects. The tragic is the sense of the present of something valuable even if there is suffering. The comic is the sense of the presence of something amusing even if there is displeasure caused by contradiction. Apteness means utility in terms of the objectivism and , formality in terms of the subejctivism. Ugliness is opposite to beauty. As the result of emperical studies, the aesthetic categories of the Renaissance dress showed harmonious, balanced, and symmetrical beauty, and the magnificent, and enlarged sublime. In addition to these , grace and elegance were also found to some extent. Aesthetic categories of the Baroque dress show feminie, soft, cheerful, and fantastic grace, asymmetric , disarmonious, and extraordinary uglinesss, and the magnificient , grave, and dignified sublime.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.5
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• pp.95-107
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• 2004

Elegance in dress has existed as one of the important archetypes of aesthetic consciousness through the times. Nevertheless, there has generally been Ignored the Idea of analyzing it. The purpose of this study is to provide a framework for a better understanding of the beauty of dress by constructing the concept of elegance in dress as both one of aesthetic categories in dress and refined taste in the sociocultural contexts. For the purpose, the documentary study in sociocultural and aesthetic contexts has been executed. Considering from the holistic viewpoint, elegance in dress is based upon the idea of aristocratic taste cultivated by good breeding. It is expressed visually through not only the carefully contrived dress hut also a sort of aura of dressed body - a combination of appearance, behavior, attitude, manner etc.- with skillful ease. The aesthetic values of elegance consist of luxury, nobility, refinement, femininity, harmony Luxury means rarity and opulence of materials, craftsmanship for excellent qualities, genuineness. Nobility, related to the lady and the gentleman, can be explained as neatness. decency. modesty. and appropriateness for formal occasions. Refinement involves artifice, sophistication, maturity, and subtleness. Femininity reflects the characteristic of feminine attractiveness such as the dainty, the florid, the sweet. Harmony means organic unity. matching with body, moderation in opposition to exaggeration. These values has rather interactivity than exclusion. It is refinement and harmony that are centered on of all values.