• 복식문화연구
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• 제32권2호
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• pp.299-320
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• 2024

Traditional culture contributes to the diversification of modern fashion design and the inheritance of local cultural identity. This study aims to identify the characteristics of traditional handicrafts reflected in modern fashion design in India. For this purpose, it focused on Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Manish Malhotra, and Ritu Kumar, who are currently leading the Indian fashion design field. The methodology involved conducting literature research and analyzing case studies. In the literature, the techniques of Indian traditional crafts such as embroidery, dyeing, and weaving were examined and five design elements of traditional crafts were defined. Through content analysis of 30 images from the three designers' Instagram accounts, the design characteristics of traditional handicrafts expressed in contemporary Indian fashion design were derived: cultural inheritance using traditional Indian clothing items, traditional materials and practices applied to contemporary clothing, craftsmanship that artistically improves complex details using embroidery techniques, various combinations based on the traditional meaning of colors, and narrative expression using patterns containing India's cultural identity. Incorporating these traditional handicrafts into fashion design, closely linked to everyday life, aids in conveying and enhancing their significance. The cases demonstrate the successful integration of conservation into contemporary fashion design. This study sheds light on the application of traditional culture in modern fashion design.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제28호
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• pp.33-43
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• 2001

Mario Botta is one of the modern architects who established his own architectural world on the basis of the architectural spirit of Modernism. His works have been a good theme not only for those who study architecture but also for those who study the relationship between architecture and the surrounding environment and there have been many published papers and reports on his works. However, most of them stressed on the importance of the external appearance of architecture or on the relationship between architecture and the surrounding environment. There have been relatively few studies that have dealt intensively with interior space. The aim of this study is to find the characteristics of interior space in public buildings that were designed by Botta and to analyze them from the view design principles and design elements. For this purpose, the five most important public buildings were selected and the public space of the building like the central hall, the lobby, and the foyer were analyzed. Through this study, the followings are realized. A) Spatial features: $\circled1$ Refined and graceful interiors where the principle of symmetry was applied, $\circled2$ Centripetal interiors surrounded by thick walls, $\circled3$ Interior design lit by skylights above the central area, B) Formative features: $\circled1$ The shapes of the external and internal spaces are identical, $\circled2$ Simple geometrical shapes were applied in defining the shapes of internal spaces, $\circled3$ Skylights and light wells were combined and were utilized as form elements, $\circled4$ Architectural vocabularies of Corbusier such as stairs, round pillars, and bridges were developed and utilized, $\circled5$ Utilized the geometry that resembled his architecture as a form element to the furniture, C) material pattern features: $\circled1$ Plainly expressed the patterns of bricks that appear in the course of construction, $\circled2$ Made and used horizontal stripe patterns using stones of different colors.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.141-149
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• 2010

This thesis is designed to take a close look into the characteristics of architectural space through the standard of beauty, which has been created apart from our desires at certain cultural or historical periods of time. It will try to construct the outline of conception about the beauty throughout many centuries. First of all, contents of the research will focus on the aspects, which people have been considering as beauty eversince the ancient time without having any assumptions on its concept. For example, if the beauty of art has been accepted by the theories of modern aesthetics while degrading the beauty of nature, its value could have possibly been much more appreciated. The standard of beauty has been going through the process of change in such history of mankind. The general standard of beauty, which was established in the ancient time was the proportion and harmony between many elements. Afterwards, beauty was expressed as colors and light in medieval times. Expression of beauty using ugly features such as monsters or demons also existed at the time. Beauty has been periodically developing from supernatural to gracious, rational, noble, romantic, religious, mechanical, and today's media. The concept of beauty established from the above has been appearing throughout various culture such as dress and decoration at the given period of time. It would later affect the formation of space as well as decoration for architectures and styles. It will be analyzed throughout the five design elements; style, composition, materials, components, and form. The thesis would like to find the spatial order of beauty from the result of the analysis. The analysis will examine the possibility for which the recomposition of beauty will be provided as a design process for the new era. The Greek beauty represents a shape. The shape represents proportion and the proportion represents given numbers. However, beauty is being expressed by the opposite process at the present time. In other words, computers will arrange the numbers, which would formalize the proportion between the numbers. Beauty would be presented when the shape is presented as certain forms.

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.98-109
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• 2013

This study aims to discuss the image making of K-pop girl groups to provide an outlook on the necessary fashion components in order to express certain concepts by analyzing the fashion styles. The fashion styles of the representative girl groups from 2007 to 2011 were classified into five types: retro style, schoolgirl style, chic style, sporty style and marine style. The following are the features and elements of image making by style. The retro style pursued going back to the past. It used stripes, dots, leopard patterns, spangles and denim. It reproduced the style of the past to the trendy style using big sunglasses, retro makeup, girlish hair and gold wigs. The schoolgirl style created the sexy or cute image by using school uniforms as the motif including shirts, short pants and knee socks. It included having natural makeup and straight hair and differentiated colors, patterns and designs. The chic style was classified into rock chic look and sexy look. Both looks had common elements including smoky pop active makeup while the fashion concepts and hair styles were different. The sporty style took the concept of cheer girls. It used plaid shirts, baseball jackets, short pants, thigh high boots, vivid hair accessories, romantic makeup and straight, wave hair. The marine style took the naval uniform as the motif. It expressed the image using short pants, stripe patterns, wappens, naval caps and smoky sexy makeup, straight hair. K-pop girl group fashion is the driving force for the growth of Korean fashion industry as well as its cultural trends and hope that it have a growing influence on the global market and trend through continuing research and support.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.185-194
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• 2004

This study examined the characteristics of 45 sects of seven new aboriginal religious groups in Korea including Jeungsan sect, Tangun sect, Soowoon sect, Won Buddhism, Bongnam sect, Gahksedo sect, Shamanism sect that had given a considerable influence on the modem Korean society since the end of 19th century through the field study and the review of documents. The purpose of the study was to elucidate how their religious ideas were reflected in their ceremonial costumes and what characteristics these costumes had. The results were as follows: 1. The new religious groups in Korea modified or mixed the designs or the names of existing outfits to convey their ideas or beliefs through their costumes. 2. The costumes of new religious groups had common characteristics of the times, Korean tradition and ancestor worship. 3. All the ceremonial costumes symbolized the creeds and ideas of each religion in their names, designs, and colors. The names of the costumes such as Way-Robe, Law-Robe, and Ceremony-Robe, and of the headpieces such as Sky-Crown, Lotus-Crown, Ceremony-Crown, and Sevenfold-Crown, for instance, were related with Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. The most common design of costume was consisted of traditional hanbok and some type of headpiece and robe for men, and hanbok modified to Western-style for women. Most sects adopted hanbok as their ceremonial costume, but they tend to simplify its design. The color scheme of the costumes reflected the influence of the Yul-Yang and Five Elements idea but the colors varied depending on seasons and occasions to suit their creeds and philosophy. 4. These religious costumes were worn at various ceremonies, ritual, and various anniversary services for the master and other dignitaries of the sect to render greater piety to those gatherings, to distinguish the sect from other religious groups, to clarify the meaning of the ceremony, and to heighten the devout feelings of the participants. Thus, the structure (the symbol, names, and types of the outfit, and their color scheme) and religious background of the costumes of the new aboriginal religious groups in Korea turned out to have inherited and mixed various elements of traditional Korean outfits and those of existing religions to symbolize their religious ideas.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.1193-1204
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• 2011

As designs that simulate man's five wits are important, all five senses used are complex. Tactil value by Bernard Berenson means that the object in fine art makes the spectator feel like his or her finger is touching something, although the spectator is distant from the art piece. Especially as costumes have a relationship with the flexible skin and moving body, tactile modality and tactile value is more important. In order to analyze how Madeleine Vionnet realized a new femininity through the application of the principal of tactile value to dress design and in order to define tactile value in the field of fashion, this study examines the theory of tactile value, sculpture, painting, contemporary art, and product design as well as the design of Madeleine Vionnet from 1925 to 1937 because she was in the fashion business enlarging dress shops in New york during this period. The shape of Madeleine Vionnet's dresses made the concealed body alive through organic curves pressed against the body from cuts and dissections based on the anatomy of a supple body with curves and movement. In the garments, soft physical characteristics or the glossy touch of silk or pile textile imitated smooth skin while colors similar to a woman's eye, hair, and skin color continue the impression of the dress extending to the body through these design elements, Madeleine Vionnet's dresses reinforce the will to touch female body hidden under the dress by tactile values, not by the body's modification or visual exposure.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.109-124
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• 2018

This study focused on the accessory of clothes of minority groups in Yunnan province to further the research about specific accessories' development in the future. Among the minorities in Yunnan, this study centralized characteristics of ornaments, hats and belts among five minority groups such as the Bai, Zhuang, Hani, Dai, and the Zang as representatives to study in detail because these five ethnicities have a relatively long history and plentiful information. The results are as follows: First, exaggeration means large gorgeous patterns that attract attention. Generally, there are many natural resources that can be used in places where these minority groups live such as gems, gold, silver shells and animals' horns, bone, teeth and the like. Headdress includes combs, loops, hairpins and other similar articles. Second, nature is a very fundamental part that people rely on for existence and development. The production and living that people need in life all depend on nature. The design of accessories is made from animal forms and patterns of clothes are presented through embroidery and wax printing. Designers always tried to add natural elements to their works. Third, symbolism consists of two aspects: One is the people's imagination, which related to actual materials, and the other is the product of imagination that provides better conditions to inspire people when they design. In China, most minority groups believe in Buddhism. The symbols in the clothing show their devout faith. Even the method of wear has many special implications like the use of accessories and length of clothing. The pattern of dragons and use of golden, red and other colors all have a proper symbolic significance in modern designs.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.886-898
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• 2013

This study explores the types, shapes and changes of the court dance garments of mudong[child court dancer] and yeoryeong[female court dancer] for court dances such as Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang, and Choehwamu, and the arrangement of colors in their garments. The conclusion of the study is as follows: First, the type of garments of mudong varied according to the type of dance, role of mudong and passage of time. In all four jeongjae's, hongpo[red robe] and baekjilheukseonjungdaneui[white under garment trimmed in black] were commonly found. Second, the dress of yeoryeong in the Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang and Choehwamu was that of other yeoryeong, which was basically comprised of hwagwan[flower headdress], hwangchosam[yellow robe], hongchosang[red skirt] and sudae[embroidered belt]. Third, the color schemes of the court dance garments used in Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang and Choehwamu revealed that the color arrangement of sangsaeng [mutual generation] of the Ohaeng[Five Elements] scheme were favored in the garments of mudong and yeoryeong. The dress of mudong is characterized by sangsaeng between top and bottom, and between total and part, while the color scheme of the outer and inner was sanggeuk[mutual overcoming]. As for yeoryeong, the color arrangement was of sangsaeng in top and bottom, outer and inner, and total and part, but in the five-colored hansam[sleeve extension], both sangsaeng and sanggeuk were found.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.204-221
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• 2021

The morning ritual was a rite whereby a morning audience with the emperor was held for feudal lords sovereigns and subjects living in the precincts, monarchs or foreign envoys of the outskirts of the capital, and other ethnic group. Distinction between the main and subordinate rituals, changes in the ceremony according to the times, and the position or rank of those participating in the rite, were factors that directly affected the costumes worn for ritual. Accordingly, in this paper, the costumes worn by members of the Ming dynasty (emperor, prince imperial, prince) were examined in terms of the period and detailed ceremonies with a focus on the morning ritual and costume systems presented in the official historical records. Through this study, only Mian-fu (冕服) and Pi-bian-fu (皮弁服) were defined by the costume system ase costumes worn in the morning ritual. However, through comparative analysis with the morning ritual system, it was confirmed that Tongtian-guan-fu (通天冠服), Yishan-guan-fu (翼善冠服), and Bianfu (便服: slightly casual wear) were also worn. It is worth noting that the color of Gunlong-pao (袞龍袍) was differentiated according to status; the Emperor wore yellow, the Prince Imperial and lower levels wore red, which was the traditional perception of academia. However, following confirmation of the custom costume for the morning ritual, it was confirmed that the color of this differentiation appeared during the 3rd year of Emperor Yongle of Ming (1305). Previously five traditional colors (blue, red, yellow, white, and black) were used for the season.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.111-125
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• 2006

This study measured and analyzed musical sense objectively, and visualized it to express visual effects as if watching music with the eye. For the visualization of music, we examined the concept of synesthesia and the correlation between hearing and seeing, and reviewed theoretical grounds and a number of cases necessary in reproducing musical sense visually based on synesthetic expression. Furthermore, we studied the visual elements and associated colors of rhythm to prove that visual conception of music through various approaches enable a transitional approach to aesthetic exploration and interpretation. The conclusions drawn from this research are as follows. First, classic music selected for visualization had musical characteristics highly correlated with dress design. Second, basic formative elements suggested as materials of visualization in this study were suitable in their form for expressing the rhythmic sense of music and, because they started from the most basic form, they were effective in extracting design elements. Third, when the result of the questionnaire survey, which was focused on the visualization of the rhythmic sense of the five pieces of classic music, was analyzed from the aspect of sensibility ergonomics, design elements of each piece of music were obtained in an objective and scientific way. Fourth, it was confirmed that common concepts could be derived from intangible elements such as forms and sounds observed in the rhythmic sense of music obtained from the result of the questionnaire survey. Fifth, works were made based on the results of this study and, according to the result, musical images can express sense through dress design and obtain visual effects as if watching music with the eye. Dress desist through the visualization of music in this study was an attempt to suggest that the language of music can be expressed in dress design, a visual formative language, based on synesthetic expression. Through this attempt, we confirmed the infinity of music as motives of dress design and suggested a method of aesthetic expression demanded in contemporary society that is pursuing aesthetic values.