• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.8
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• pp.1125-1136
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• 2000

Fitness of clothes becomes a major concern in apparel industry. Development of basic patterns will enhance the fitness of clothes. But there are few slacks patterns for the middle-high school girls. So girls had difficulties to buy ready-made clothes of good fit. To solve this problem, it is necessary to develop basic slacks patterns. The purposes of this study was to develop basic slacks patterns based on the analysis of lower body types. 4 girls were selected among 402 anthropometric measurement subjects who are 13 to 15 year-old for the wearing tests. The result of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. Analysing the replicas of lower body surface by using gypsum method, slack patterns were developed. 2. Wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that the developed slacks pattern was estimated more highly than existing patterns in the items of the comfort of front crotch and back crotch. 3. Wearing test by moire topography method represented that garment silhouette of developed slacks pattern was estimated more highly and garment space of waist, hip were significantly different among patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.15-32
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to research on the actual condition of production and selling in silver apparel market. For the questionnaire, 19 women's wear brands which were in higher ranking of sales in boutiques and madame-zone of department stores were selected. Pattern makers of each brand were questioned about 40 items for this research. The results of the questionnaire were as follows: 1) According to the result of the survey on the made-to-wear production of 19 ready-to-wear manufacturers, there was the gap was in ages between the target and the real consumer. Consumers of these brands were older and aged more broadly than their target ages. 2) Most of the consumers of silver-zone has thick waists, common heights, fat shapes. Custom-made clothes are ordered in many cases because of the big abdomen(50.0%) and H-shape(58.3%) of a somatotype. The body size variation of user population is needed for a good fit. 3) All brands(100%) of this research are using KS standards in the label of clothing, but they don't use these data in their production by reason of unawareness and distrust about these data. These inconsistency between the label and the real size of products may cause a confusion when consumers buy ready-to-wear. 4) Silver apparel manufacturers have need of anthropometry information and dummy(78.6%) suitable for their target consumers to increase their satisfaction about their apparel fit.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.83-94
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to analyze the reality of clothes-wearing among physically disabled women and propose trouser designs. As a research method, an in-depth interview method was adopted for 10 women in their 30s and 50s with lower limb disabilities who could wear trousers and use wheelchairs. The study results identified the following factors that should be considered in the design of trousers. First, a semi-casual design that could hide physical deficiencies, was not different from ready-made clothes and enabled various looks was desirable. Second, the proper material would have little transformation in the form, have remarkable durability and laundry fastness, two-directional stretch, and hide deficiencies with a sense of thickness and density. Third, an "L-frame" pattern in a sitting position, and a straight fit were desirable. Finally, pockets can impose pressure according to their form, size, position, and sewing method, highlighted the need for a sewing approach to minimize seams in the fabric. For adjustment, an elastic band would be a good choice in terms of type, length, position, and material as it could satisfy both the convenience of putting on and taking off and comfort in wearing at the same time. Decorative design details can also impose pressure according to a sense of thickness, which means that they should be avoided in parts that are close to the body or can impose pressure according to posture.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.1-13
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• 2014

This study investigated body type among women in their 20s and the development of prototypes for tailored jackets by body type in order to design clothes in consideration of an imbalance in body type caused by the popularity of portable devices such as smartphones and Netbooks. This study aims to create a design of jacket patterns by body type through both actual and virtual wear testing among women in their 20s, who are the major consumer of ready-made clothes and are very sensitive to size fit. This study will provide pattern information for the manufacture of jackets with a goal of securing the latest scientific body type information and establish the grounds for a research method in the manufacture of clothes. According to actual and virtual wear tests of four different body types, a significant difference was found in armhole circumference in most types because it was scanned with the arms slightly apart to prevent the armhole area from being missed during the 3D scanning. This has resulted in a slight distortion in measurements. To correct this problem, it is necessary to verify the precision of the body scanner and its program. In categories in which a large significant difference was found, it is necessary to test them against many subjects. In addition, it would be required to perform a further study on the 3D virtual wear system, which could be useful in the clothing industry.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.469-483
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• 2008

Body image is important as it is related to self-esteem and can be enhanced by clothing and the degree of enhancement is related to clothing fit. The purpose of the paper is to find the adequate ease distribution of jacket pattern for the obese women who want to slenderize their shape by optical illusion. Subjective evaluation of the visual appearance we collected and, at the same time, 3D clothing air volume was observed for the nine types of experimental jackets with different ease distribution. As results it was found that jacket pattern for the obese women is that the front width of pattern is wider than what of back width in waist and abdomen. It was also noted that there was distance between clothing and skin in the girth around hip of jacket. 3D scanner clearly demonstrated the distribution of ease is useful to find the pattern variables responsible for the slender appearance of the obese women. The ready-to-made clothes for the obese women's clothing should be manufactured systematically in due consideration of the diversity and scarcity of the obese women's body shape.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.477-486
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• 2010

This study aims at establishing a sizing system required for producing ready-made clothes which can fit the body shape of disabled men using wheelchair. It measured the bodies of 178 adult men using wheelchair and compared the sizing system of German adult men using wheelchair (1984) with KS system(KS K0050, 2004) in order to establish standards of the sizing system. AS a result, in terms of classification of body shapes, KS system cover more types of disabled men's body shapes and especially, A types (Drop 15.6) showed the widest coverage with 32%. In classification of heights, the widest range of height was 170 cm, and Korean men's four sizes between 158 cm and 176 cm covers 88.2% of disabled men's body shape. For chest size, 91.1% of disabled men's chest sizes were included in seven sizes, which are 4 cm intervals between 88 cm and 112 cm with 100 cm standard. In consideration of the ranges of height and chest, the general sizes (A types; 11 sizes, B types; 3 sizes, Y types; 5 sizes) are selected to present the standardized measurements. Basic parts of the upper garment sizing system for disabled men using wheelchair were height-chest-waist size.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.137-153
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• 2009

Recently, young men have become more muscular as they become more interested in physical figure. However, most of these muscular men have fit problems regarding ready-made clothes. In view of this, this study aimed to develop a prototype jacket pattern for muscular men. For this study, five muscular men were selected to put on existing jacket pattern for wearing tests. The regression formula, in which muscular men body measures were adopted, was applied to unsuitable parts, especially the areas determined not to be appropriate in the evaluation of existing jacket pattern wearing tests. After the first and the second jacket pattern wearing tests, the final jacket pattern suitable for muscular men was developed. The results of the study were as follows: In order to make up for the problem of the loosening of the lapel area, due to the development of the chest muscle, the chest circumference line on the chest area of the pattern was cut to be 1.0cm wide; thus, the front length was modified with an increase. The wearing tests found that a wearers felt discomfort from the tight armhole area, so the armhole depth was set to be a little lower than that of ready-made clothes. A muscular men needs much more extra quantity in this area because the upper part of the back side is projected due to the greater development of the trapezius muscle and the deltoid than in average men. Hence, concerning the standard line for the length of the back interscye, ease of 1.0cm was added to the regression equation formula {(0.371${\times}$chest circumference+3.145)/2} in order to resolve the discomfort with the back area. Also, for the biacromion length, the upper arm protruded more than the shoulder point of the jacket because of the development of the deltoid and the upper arm muscle, and it was set to be wider than the actual shoulder. In order to solve the problem of discomfort from the narrow neck area during the wearing of a jacket owing to the development of the trapezius muscle, extra ease of 0.5cm was added to chest circumference/12-0.5cm in the existing jacket prototype to the width of back of the neck, and it was corrected to be chest circumference/12.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1150-1162
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• 2011

Considering the fact that the fit for men's clothes is important for the sizing system modern ready-made pants, an analysis of obese middle-aged men is required at this period of time to determine the appropriate fit for obese men. The following research focused on 635 middle-aged obese men who had a BMI index of at least 25 and a waist circumference from the belly-button level of 34 inches or more. This research deals with the articles of circumference, thickness and other major physical changes that happen during the 30s, 40s, and 50s. According to the analysis of these body measurement articles with specific regard to age, men's height and the height of their waist seemed to decrease as their age increased. This demonstrates that as these men grow older, the waist and stomach slowly curved into a circular and flat body type due to their obesity. In this study, the first factor figure was the height and leg length. The second factor figure was the waist form. The third factor figure was the center thigh circumference. The fourth and fifth factor figures were the hip length and shape. Lastly, the sixth factor figure was the calf circumference. These 6 factor figures construct 80.57% of the volume explanation and showed 3 patterns through a cluster analysis that showed different patterns of obesity forms for waist circumferences in key figure 1, waist and thigh circumferences in key figure 2, and waist and buttocks circumferences. Therefore, it was worthwhile to consider the circumferences of the waist, buttocks and thigh according to the body type category to enhance the drafting of well-fitting pants.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.25 no.11
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• pp.167-178
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• 2020

This study attempted to find out the difference in the patterns of jeogori between commercially available Shinhanbok brands by comparing and analyzing the patterns of the changing Shinhanbok jeogori in consideration of material characteristics, fit, and fastening. After purchasing and disassembling 6 products, analysis was conducted with the disassembly pattern. As a result of analyzing the shape of the jeogori, the 1st, 3rd and 6th brands showed no darts. In the case of the 5th brand, the three-dimensional effect of the human body was expressed with a princess line. As a result of the appearance evaluation, the 5 brands were evaluated as the highest in most items except for the space of the front width and the group wrinkles of back sleeve armhole, and the appearance was analyzed to be the best. As a result of evaluating the clothing pressure, it was analyzed that the chest circumference of the first brand was smaller than that of the other brands, and the shoulder width and shoulder length were also shorter, and pulling occurred even after wearing. As the demand for new hanbok increases, it is believed that it is necessary to establish a size system for ready-made clothes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.26-38
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• 2023

This study aimed to develop a visually differentiated quarantine suit design for giving 119 paramedics comfort to work and psychological stability and to awaken awareness without fear or pressure of the public through literature review and practical research. Basic research was conducted on firefighting uniforms and quarantine suits in Korea and abroad, focusing on domestic and foreign related literature. An interview survey was conducted to identify the current status, problems, and preferences of the design. Research subjects were eight dispatched paramedics and two executives in Seoul and Gwangju. The survey period was from September 15, 2022 to October 10, 2022. Interviews were conducted through phone calls. Results of this study were as follows. Most of the quarantine suits currently worn were Level D style ready-made clothes without coverall patterns. The current quarantine suit was designed without reflecting the symbolism of the National Fire Agency. They were wearing a generous size without having to think about the fit. Most of these quarantine suits were white. In addition, the quarantine suit could not be equipped with a camera for the safety of paramedics. After identifying improvements based on results of the above interview analysis, the following quarantine suit design was proposed. First, it would be differentiated from other institutions by designing suits with symbolism. Second, the convenience of size, camera equipment, and better breathability and style than Level D should be considered. Based on these results, a total of five quarantine suits were designed.