• 한국언론정보학보
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• 제70권
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• pp.165-188
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• 2015

오늘날 변화된 미디어 지형에서 미디어를 이용하는 활동이 자본의 가치증식 과정에서 어떤 역할을 하는지에 대한 논의는 미디어 정치경제학과 비판언론학에 새로운 연구 영역과 노동가치론의 시각을 제시해줄 수 있다. 이 논문에서는 미디어 이용 활동을 포스트 포드주의 축적 체제의 새로운 노동 범주로 파악하거나 자본이 스스로 생산하지 못하는 지대라는 관점을 넘어설 새로운 매개 개념을 제안했다. 이를 위해 수용자상품론을 또 다른 상품의 생산을 위한 자본재로 파악하는 입장을 토대로 미디어 이용 활동을 이 자본재를 생산하기 위한 노동의 대상임을 주장했다. 또한 이러한 자본재 생산의 노동이 이루어지는 시공간으로 미디어 플랫폼이 그 중심에 있음을 논했다. 이러한 재개념화를 통해 미디어 정치경제학의 연구 영역은 플랫폼을 통한 가치의 창출이라는 범위로 확장될 수 있을 것이다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.1261-1273
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• 2010

The advent of various arts and remarkable development of mass media since 1980s accelerate fashion photographs' advancement. The expression of fashion through photographs can represent characteristics of ages, societies, cultures, traits of designers and techniques of photographers. In addition, that is the tool which contains economical role as a product and artistic role as photos. Therefore, this study examines hyprt-reality images in editorial fashion photographs. Hyper-reality means the reproduction which represents the reality of life more actually. Hyper-reality through photographs elevates reality of virtual things and creates the confused situation which haunts the boundary between reality and reproduction. This study classifies the hyper-reality in editorial fashion photographs into three groups by their external traits, ideal reality, collapse of reality, and restoration of reality. First, ideal reality is represented as harmony among fashion, characters, and space, causality of fashion with time and circumstances, positive will, and melting with nature. Second, collapse of reality is expressed as in harmony between fashion and situation, violence, fetishism and symbol of death. Third, restoration of reality is shown as recurrence to nature and images of utopia to express dignity of life.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.326-337
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• 2006

Self-immersed narcissism image that had been limited only a feminine image has being represented as a new masculinity image through various fashion magazine and TV advertisements. Besides, this makes a contribution of enlargement of concern about the beauty and fashion of the male. In the past, fashion has been created through the fetishism about the female body. But, new male image has been changed during only 30-40 years compared with the traditional various social, cultural, sexual body images had been changed for a long time. On the contrary, changed modem male image removes the interval of difference between the male and the female image. Now, representative techniques of the masculinity perform both accommodation and disobedience against social and cultural rules. Social body, which has been understood that appearance represents almost all things, makes the good use of the space of discipline and reformation. This paper is tended to grasp the characteristics of male body image expressed modem male fashion and TV advertisements based on the examination about the changed male body image.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권11호
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• pp.1229-1240
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to review such results of the scientific and technological development as women's changed status, sexual identity and their views of physique in the cyber space based on cyber feminists' theories, and thereby, examine the concept of space during the medieval age, and then, the fundamental spiritual concept involving the fetishism of women's body as sexual objects in the materialistic space of the digital age in terms of the consciousness of trend or supra-sensual perceptions, and thereby, review the effect of the cyber terrorism and violence on the fashion in sub-cultural terms. Some researchers distinguish psychedelic styles from cyberdelic ones to assume such psychiatric visions as psychedelic fashion characterized by resistance and delinquency-cyber punk fashion, cyber hippie fashion, cyborg fashion- and then, define them all as cyber resistant culture fashion or as a sub-cultural style of the cyber culture. As a result, it was found that human bodies are being encoded with the networks, various cyber characters or avatars are emerging, while human bodies are being distorted or exaggerated with human beings and machines being imploded.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.69-89
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• 1987

The objective of this paper was to identify the general concept of subculture; to assess the symbolism of youth subculture style, such as Teds in the 40's, Mods in the 50's, Skinheads and Hippies in the 60's, and Punks in the 80's, giving an inspiration to many high fashion designers. The data were collected from eye-wittness reports, interviews, magazines such as Vogue, The Face, and The Sunday Times, postcards, and photos taken by authors. Youth subcultures were symbolized as 1) a social protest and disaffection against social class and racism, 2) an expression of shock value for nihilism, anarchism, and vandalism, 3) a meaningful sexual fetishism concerning gender confusion, and 4) an emotion of rage, fear, and alienation among working class youth. One cultural form in a subculture is its 'style.' Costumes, appearances, and accessories such as hair style, make-up, and jewellery were playing an important role in forming a subcultural style. The symbolism of youth subculture was well depicted on their clothing styles, which had influences on Zandra Rhodes's, Body Maps', and Hyper and Hyper's fashion design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.824-841
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• 2010

In 21st century, subordinated relationship of fashion from the body has been disappearing, and fashion is understood as variable and creative field. This research aims at analysis about the relationship between the body and fashion depending on the theories about the authority and the desire. So, this utilizes between theoretical study and empirical analysis. For concentrated study, research period limits from 2000 to the present time 2010. Contemporary body and fashion have being changed into various forms and values, become complex and de-territory. Especially, body is symbol of ambivalence eroticism that gives point to sexual property, and the object of fetishism and machine having a desire. This study's purpose draw a parallel with between the limits of contemporary body that couldn't be rid of the capital and desire, and the liberty of fashion that escape from the body's influence has being changed independent and fluid space. This research's results are as follow as; contemporary de-territory fashion is expressed as 1) symbol of the object and physical material property, 2) self-transcendental instrument fashion, 3) independent spatial molding, 4) de-centering fashion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.171-183
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• 2014

In general, the idea of fun is understood to be associated with interesting things, playfulnesses, joy, pleasure, etc. The "fun culture," which seeks enjoyment and pleasure through life, is a characteristic of elements observed in today's society and culture. This exerts a powerful impacts on the business operation, marketing, and product manufacturing. Moreover, it is accepted as one of remarkable phenomena representing the changing trends of fashion in the 21st century. The objectives of this study were to analyze and categorize the fun motifs observed in fashion designer Walter Van Beirendonck 's collections, to examine their formative characteristics, and to establish academic approaches and analytic framework in studying the fun phenomenon emerging in fashion. As to research methods, this study laid a theoretical ground by reviewing the related literature and previous studies, and conducted a positive case study using the data on Walter Van Beirendonck's collections and exhibitions. According to the results of this study, the fun motifs represented in Walter Van Beirendonck's collections are largely categorized into "deviation from rules," "humorous and obscene graphic images," "introduction and transformation of heterogeneous elements," "women with male gender' etc. On the other side of Walter Van Beirendonck's fashion are sex, sexual humors, sexuality, fetishism, love, form, body, language, social phenomena, harmony between nature and life, consumerism, race, shamanism, tribal rituals, nation, cultural collision, transcendent things, science fictions, cyber Space, dream, alien, future, fairytale, fantasy etc. which are expressed by using fun motifs. Moreover, these themes are led to masculinity and fantasy.

• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.165-180
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• 2000

Since fashion is considered to be a cultural product and belongs to the formative art as well, the changes in fashion reflect those of society. Modern fashion has emerged from the period when people would follow the popular fashion uniformly, and moved toward the age of diversity, expressing not only the inner desires and aesthetic sensibility of individuals but also the freedom from formality and traditional restrictions. This kind of changes in expression became important motives for modern dress design following the present cultural phenomena, and, so called "outerwearization" of the undergarment or "infra apparel" exemplifies this situation. Corset especially has been playing a vital role in exaggerating and emphasizing the beauty of female body and correction of its shape. Today, one can frequently witness corset in street fashion along with brassier, Its sister concept. This "outerwearization" of the undergarment is supplanted as a syndrome, and it is defined as "supra syndrome" using "supra" as the opposite meaning to "infra". This unique phenomenon of modern fashion cannot be explained by a single social aspect, but as a mixed state of eroticism, fetishism, feminism, demonstrationists and expressionism among several current phenomena. The advent of "supra syndrome" and its cultural background were illustrated and stand-out "supra syndrome" exhibited by many world-renowned designers were analyzed in this study. As the result of study, six design pieces were developed and produced in three groups, based on different corset motifs. This study reaffirms that creativity of design is limitless and the imaginative abilities alone cannot accomplish higher level of design and development of works of fashion unless they are accompanied by the understanding of historical background, periodical circumstances and cultural phenomena. In this study, utilizing the modern apparatus such as computer and the advent of the modern technology was also found helpful in creative fashion design process.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권5호
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• pp.72-86
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• 2002

Recently the fashion design has been expressed mixing trend of antipodal concept. There are shown disorganization of existing standard with eclectism, pursued more sensational fashion by the sense of unease. And there are spreaded body exposure in producing on a commercial scale for sex, are shown the phenomenon by wearing innovation inner-wear in private area are exposed out. The purpose of this study are to consider preponderantly the fashion design using corset, shown up as the motive of costume design from 1990's to 2002's, define the character of molding. and extend the width of understanding of modern fashion. The results of the study are as follows: 1. The trend of deconstructionism as one line of fashion world in the 1990's make into outer garment of inner-wear, corset has been using the main item of infra costume. The past corset was existed innerwear, but it is revived various forms by transforming outer garment of body expression consciously. 2. Corset look is shown double faced factory of the beauty of tradition and decadence, vulgarity and nobility, concealment and exposure, and are expressed boldly the free consciousness outer about woman's sex with the improvement of woman's social position. 3. The molding character of Corset look divided Eroticism, Fetishism, Deconstructionism. Futurism. The trend of Corset look design is the emphasized sexual part of lace-up and cutting line of corset, and various details of see-through, kitsch, glitter look. Therefore, the trend of Corset look will be applied the modern fashion and used as motif of new design, affected the inspiration of more developed design with grafting of up-to-date fabrics and processing technique.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.947-959
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• 2009

This study aims to analyze contemporary women's sense of fashion aesthetic by looking into the design and trend of T-panties, which have now carved out a new niche in the world's 21st century female underwear markets. By this, I'd like to reassure readers of the importance of T-panties, which has only been recently recognized, and more generally suggests the future direction of prominent T-panty design development. First, western urban chic, Japanese minimalism and domestic modern feminine images all have common modern urban sense and simple designs. However, each image is not a simple image in itself. For example, in the case of western style they often seek to convey a sophisticated and stylish street sense, while Koreans add a more cute, lovely, and feminine touch. Second, western restrained eroticism, Japanese fetishism and domestic mono-bosom images all have a common interest in sex. They is something, however, which they all express this differently. In Japan, they prefer a stimulating image. In the West, however, this is restrained by controlling and limiting overt sexual elements, while in Korea, we seek to capture a more simple sensual beauty. Third, western couture luxury, Japanese orientalism and Korean utopia narcissism have classy images in common including splendid materials and decorations with embroidery. They all differ depending on their nationality. This study is baseds on the documents study. This study is baseds on the documents study.