• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.1-21
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to typify femininity and masculinity represented in mainstream women's and men's fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and infer sexual ideology appearing in contemporary Korean society by content analysis with the view of plural sexuality. For the content analysis total 259 editorial fashion photography was analyzed. As the result, 5 femininities and 5 masculinities were typified, and then sexual discourse was inferred out of the frequency of each type and texts with the images. On the basis of previous studies and historical considerations of this topic, the types of sexuality represented in mainstream fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 were classified as follow.: in women's fashion magazines Traditional Femininity and Androgynous Femininity were almost similarily dominant sexuality, and Glamor Femininity, Babydoll Femininity, and Genderless sexuality were alternative. Meanwhile, in men's fashion magazines Traditional Masculinity formed clear dominant sexuality, and Macho Masculinity, Androgynous Masculinity, Adolescent Masculinity, and Genderless sexuality were alternatives. In addition, Androgynous Masculinity in women's fashion magazines occupied the highest frequency, while Glamor Femininity in men's fashion magazines did so. From this sexual discourses represented in mainstream fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 are as follow.: First, mainstream fashion in Korea sticks to the modern values preserving traditional sexual ideology even in this postmodern period of the former 21C. Second, Androgynous Femininity as another dominant femininity with Traditional Femininity connotes the change of conception of femininity in Korean society. Third, Androgynous Masculinity to females is preferred, while femininity to males is still regarded as fetish or adorned object. Fourth, the appearance of various alternative sexualities leads to pluralization of sexuality, and then fashion gradually codifies youthfulness and feminine values, such as body and sexual desire more than before.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.126-142
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• 2007

The second part of this study is to typify plural sexuality articulated with fashion images in men's and women's popular fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and ultimately to infer sexual ideology codified in modern fashion by a framework of this study, the socio-semiotic model. From this, sexuality represented in modern fashion was typified as follows: in women's fashion Traditional Femininity, Glamor Femininity, Androgynous Femininity, Babydoll Femininity and Genderless sexuality, while in men's fashion Traditional Masculinity, Macho Masculinity, Androgynous Masculinity, Adolescent Masculinity and Genderless sexuality. The conclusion of this study is as follows: First, modern fashion has been changed from a means expressing gender and class into a sign vehicle representing the new ruling system of age and sexual desire. The binary oppositional sexuality on center of man in the 19 C capitalist period has been gradually pluralized towards the post-capitalist period. Next, mainstream society in Korea is still positioned in the traditional heterosexuality, keeping the vertical power relationship between man and woman even in the post-modern period. However, the fact that both Traditional Femininity and Androgynous Femininity acquire the position of dominant femininity connotes the change of modern femininity. Finally, plural sexuality represented in modern fashion has family resemblance and it shows contextual flexibility within contemporary period as well as a historical context. As a result, sexuality floats with a specific historical and socio-cultural context, and fashion as a material culture represents a masquerade as a identity vehicle, which constructs and de-constructs sexuality at the same time.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.28-42
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• 2006

In present modern society, media contributes more to the constructing of personal identities than any other medium. Music video, a postmodernism branch among a variety of media, offers a complex experience of sounds combined with visual images. In particular. fashion in music video helps conveying contexts effectively and functions as a medium of immediate communication by visual effect. Considering the socio-cultural effects of music video. gender identity represented in fashion in it can be of great importance. Therefore, this study is geared to the reconsidering of gender identity represented through costumes in music video by analyzing fashions in it. Gender identity in socio-cultural category is classified as masculinity, femininity, and the third sex. By examining fashions based on the classification. this study will help to create new design concepts and to understand gender identity in fashion. The results of this study are as follows: First. masculinity in music video fashion was categorized into stereotyped masculinity, sexual masculinity. and metro sexual masculinity. Second, femininity in music video fashion was categorized into stereotyped femininity. sexual femininity, and contra sexual femininity. Third, the third sex in music video fashion was categorized into transvestism, masculinization of female, and feminization of male. This phenomenon is presented into music videos through females in male attire and males in female attire. Through this research, gender identity represented in fashion of music video was demonstrated, and the importance of the relationship between representation of identity through fashion and socio-cultural environment was reconfirmed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to find out differences of women's professionalism and attractiveness according to the perceiver's level of interest on accessory, the object person's age, and accessory wearing. Subjects were 178 college women in Seoul. The evaluation of the accessory wearing was divided into five dimensions: professionalism, attractiveness, loveliness, femininity, and individuality. The look of accessory wearing had significant influences on the evaluation of professionalism and attractiveness. The women in their 40's wearing the scarf on a jacket were evaluatedhigh in professionalism, attractiveness, and femininity. The 40's wearing the cap with a T-shirt were evaluatedlow in professionalism and attractiveness. The women in their 20's wearing the cap with a T-shirt were evaluatedhigh in attractiveness and loveliness. Wearing of scarf enhanced professionalism, femininity, and individuality, wearing necklace enhanced femininity, and wearing cap enhanced loveliness of women. Perceiver's level of interest on accessory gave significant influences on perception of professionalism and attractiveness. The object person's age gave significant influences on loveliness, femininity, and individuality. Professionalism, attractiveness, loveliness, and femininity had interaction effects according to object person's age and accessories. When women in their 40's wore scarf or necklace, their professionalism was raised more than those in their 20's. Therefore accessory wearing was more effective to the women in their 40's than the 20's.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.8
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• pp.1216-1227
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• 2002

The objective in the part H of this study was to investigate the effects of materials, sleeves, trimming, and perceivers gender on impression formation. Stimuli consisted of 13 color photographs of a female model wearing a wedding dress which were manipulated according to clothing cues. A semantic differential sale of 4 dimensions was used. These were attractiveness, neatness, femininity, and prettiness. Samples were 312 males and females. For the effect of sleeves, there were significant main effects in attractiveness, femininity, neatness, and prettiness. Three-quarters lace ruffled sleeves increased the perception of positive attractiveness, femininity, and prettiness. Flounced sleeves had a positive effect on the perception of neatness. Long-tight sleeves had a negative effect on the perception of attractiveness, femininity, and prettiness. Sleeveless dresses increased the perception of negative neatness. There was an interaction effect between sleeves and the perceivers gender on neatness. For the onぉ of material, there were significant main effects in neatness, femininity, and prettiness. Solid cloth had a positive effect on the perception of neatness and negatively on prettiness. The combination of lace and solid cloth increased the perception of positive femininity and prettiness. lace had a negative effect on the perception of neatness. Satin increased the perception of negative femininity. There was an interaction effect between material and perceivers gender on prettiness. The main effect of trimmings was its effect on prettiness. Ribbons increased the perception of positive prettiness. Not having any trimmings had a negative effect on the perception of prettiness. There was an interaction effect between timings and the perceivers gender on neatness. The results of this study confirm that image perception of wedding dresses becomes different according to the materials, details, and perceiver's gender.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.8
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• pp.1276-1287
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• 2000

The purpose of this research is to analyze the clothing behavior according to the sexual difference, coeducational system, and three groups divided with the score of psychopathic deviate and masculinity-femininity. Data were collected with questionnaires. Samples were 699 boys and girls of middle school in Incheon area. The major findings can be summarized as follows: The variables of fashion-orientation, attention getting, satisfaction of cloth and modesty are significantly different from boys and girls, but conformity is not significant. The variables of attention getting, conformity, satisfaction of cloth and modesty are of significant difference among three groups divided with the score of psychopathic deviate. The variables of satisfaction of cloth, modesty, and fashion-orientation are significantly different among three groups according to the masculinity-femininity.

• English & American cultural studies
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.269-286
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• 2014

The Pre-Raphaelite oeuvre abounds in the image of women, which indicates the impact of gender question on contemporary visual culture. The representation of women in their art tends to evince the entrenched myth of womanhood, marked by a stereotyped dichotomy in the apprehension of femininity. Yet there are a significant number of pictures which attest to the point that their iconography of womanhood cannot be fully elucidated by exploring the dichotomy alone. They falsify the dyadic model, defying the attempt to accommodate them in a clean-cut category. The curious blend of the mystical, the sensual, and the domestic that characterizes these images suggests that they are open to multiple interpretations. In sum, the Pre-Raphaelite representation of women both endorses and challenges the ideal of femininity, indicating that it was shaped by and shaped contemporary perceptions of women at a time when gender relations were shifting and the traditional institution of patriarchy revealed a sign of strain.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.430-448
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• 2011

This study analyzes the stereotyped femininity with a focus on body codes, which has been continuously expressed in fashion illustrations from the late $19^{th}$ century to the year 2010, and examines the changes in its meaning. Stereotyped femininity was reorganized by the changes in female sex role effected by social changes, as well as by the body discourse and feminism in the late $20^{th}$ century, These socio-cultural backgrounds led to the change in the meaning of stereotyped women expressed in fashion illustrations. The stereotyped women in fashion illustrations are characterized by gender-oriented body, and the typical image of women was reproduced with the marks of poses and looks that feature passiveness and subordination. Then, the gender-oriented body since 1990's shifted to active meaning that positively revealed sexual desire. The space positioned by women is also the symbol of gender. In line with changes over time, the backgrounds in fashion illustrations have changed from private space such as home and nature to public space such as city, which reflects diversification and expansion of space for women. This study has identified the changes in meaning, based on the analysis of the characteristics of stereotyped women expressed in fashion illustrations. Above all, women who were objectified as a subject by dominant discourse have established the concept of active body as an entity. In addition, the symbol of typical femininity is "slim" and "beauty", which reflects the change from the emphasis on childbirth-related femininity to self-control and conquer. On the other hand, the typical features expressed through body have reproduced dichotomous structure, but the emergence of body and background deviated from gender has reorganized the symbolic order of gender.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.169-180
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• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity, the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and tole ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part I of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the fashion system in the Victorian period will be reviewed. following are the conclusion : First, in the Victorian period, the value of femininity is put on the body of female by the discrimination of sex divided in two. Consequently, the characteristics of femininity mainly include dependence, passiveness, emotion, beauty, maternity, innocence, and purity. To emphasize the function of reproduction as primary duty and nature of female, the ideal beauty of body is represented in the form of Venus Naturalis, which symbolizes the fertility. And the external form of this body is expressed in slum waist line, ample busom and hip in fashion. Second, the features of this fashion are classified into three categories by their internal value : images of subordinate female, sensual female and maternal female 1) The image of subordinate female is expressed by concealment of legs, tightening the upper part of the body in corset and restriction on action by the crinoline 2) The image of sensual female is revealed in brazing colors and decoration, excessive exposure of the upper part of the body and hip by means of bustle. 3) The image of maternity is expressed in swollen skirt of crinoline, oval bustle silhouette metaphoring the extended womb resulted from pregnancy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.6
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• pp.5-24
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• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the Fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and the ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part Ⅱ of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the Aesthetic Movement and Rational Dress Movement as the anti-fashion movement in the Victorian period will be reviewed. Following are the conclusion : First, the works in Aesthetic Movement mainly include the image of sensual female. The essence of femininity is categorized by cultural value, poetic spirit. appetite for sex and self-expression. The ideal beauty of body pursued in this movement is the beauty of immatured body, which means rejection of maternity as well as appetite for sex in the form of metaphor of the power and enthusiasm of female. The features of Aesthetic Movement emphasize the image of sensual and characteristic woman. These features are expressed in the natural waist line and the vertical H silhouette of high waist, natural exposure of body by means of drapery, simplicity and decency by design without fixed forms and seemingly faded colors. Second, Rational Dress Movement attempted to evaluate the femininity in a different way and ultimately pursued masculinity. Therefore, morality, liberty, intelligence, spirituality, self-control, willingness, which had been believed to exclusively belong to male, are added to the categories of femininity. The ideal beauty of body is expressed in the form of Venus Coelestic which is refined and strong. This symbolizes woman's freeing from the fate of reproduction and subordinate relationship with male, morality, decision of one's own and willingness. The features of Rational Dress Movement represent the image of strong-willed and moral woman in its internal meaning. The features of its fashions represent the concealment of the body, emphasis on activeness in pants without decoration and simplicity in its external form. All these features resulted from the pursuit of masculinity.